|
|
|
|
|
|
| | QUERY: moscow%3Fiframe%3Dtrue | | |
|
|
|
|
| 1. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Prechistenka-Ostozhenka::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians 
|
The area has a rich historical background and several exceptional sides: it is situated on the river bank near the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, the Kremlin, Red Square and some of the most popular museums. The architecture of the area corresponded to the unpretentious tastes of its inhabitants: modest apartment houses were side by side with taverns and bars. Over many centuries of its existence, it has earned the reputation of the most expensive, prestigious and fashionable area of the city. Moscow's guests are attracted by its proximity to the historic walls of the Kremlin and the domes of the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. The area is very calm and cosy.
Prechistenka and Ostozhenka streets seem to be twins: their names are always mentioned together but their role in Moscow history was different.
Prechistenka was popular among nobility and it is still well seen in local toponyms: many streets wear names of famous noble families (Gagariny, Lopukhiny, Naschekiny). Best architects were invited to design patrimonial palaces for them. Luckily many of the mansions survived through all the fires and historical cataclysms and today allow us to enjoy this corner of old Moscow. In the beginning of Prechistenka an old house called Krasnye Palaty ("Red Chambers") is hiding behind the monument to Engels. Built in the end of the 17th century former residence of prince Lopukhin was completely forgotten. Only in 1972, partly ruined and partly reconstructed, it was discovered by accident among the houses prepared for the demolishing due to president Nikson's visit. House No 11 which is now Tolstoy museum and house No 12, Pushkin Museum, have more in common than just being museums of great persons: these former noble mansions were both built after projects of architect Grigoriev and they are both known as masterpieces of Moscow Empire style.
The Academy of Art occupies house No 21; until 1917 it belonged to a member of the famous manufacturer family - Ivan Morozov. Love to art was in the blood of this family and Ivan was not an exception: being a true admirer of Impressionism, he possessed one of the best collections of modern European art in Russia (Manet, Sisley, Van Gogh, and Renoir). He was also the first patron of Mark Chagall.
Prechistenskiye Vorota Square
If you go around the Cathedral than at the corner of Soymonovsky passage and Prechistenskaya embankment there is one house that stands out among others - Pertsov's house (No 1). This unusual apartment house was designed by Malutin, the official author of "matreshka". He attempted to revive the world of pagan antiquity and tried to create the spirit of pre-Christian times by using the symbols of the chief deity of the pagan pantheon and mysterious sombre colours. From 1908 to 1915 it housed a legendary cabaret "The Bat" and remembers Stanislavsky, Nemirovich-Danchenko and many other actors as its visitors. Now Pertsov's house belongs to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
Ostozhenka
Ostozhenka appeared as part of the old road from "Kievan Rus" to "Vladimir-Suzdal Rus", directly adjacent to the crossing of the Moscow River, the so-called Crimean bridge. In contradiction to Prechistenka, Ostozhenka was rather modest street. Apartment houses, inns and cheap eating places - that is Ostozhenka of the 19th century. Moscow aristocracy disliked decent Ostozhenka and began to settle there only in the 18th century and in the first quarter of the 19th century. Although the fire of 1812 demolished most mansions, the spirit of ancient medieval times still lives on in the narrow winding quiet lanes, old yards and houses that stretch down to the Moscow River. Today Ostozhenka is a beautiful, safe and very convenient neighbourhood adjacent to the Arbat area. Within walking distance, you will find Kremlin, Pushkin Museum, Cathedral of Christ the Savior.
As every street Ostozhenka has its legends. According to one of them merchant Filatov decided to quit drinking and as a result of this crucial decision we see a symbolic wine-glass turned upside-down on the top of his apartment house (house No 3 at the corner of Ostozhenka and Obydensky lane). One of Moscow's most interesting styles in architecture was Art Nouveau, or Modern, and Ostozhenka is a proud "owner" of such a beautiful sample of it as Kekushev's mansion (No 21). Kekushev together with the architect of Moderne Fedor Schechter created true architectural masterpieces in the beginning of the 20th century.
Matvey Kozakov designed an impressive residence for P. Eropkin, Moscow Commander-in-Chief during the reign of Catherine the Great. He suppressed a "plague riot" in 1771 when frightened people were about to destroy the city. Today his house is an alma mater for future polyglots: the Moscow University of Linguistics. Pozharny lane boasts proudly rising bronze Peter the Great surrounded by fogs of the Moscow River. This surreal sight sometimes shocks foreign visitors. |
|
|
|
|
| 2. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Volkhonka::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Today Volkhonka is an "Art street" of the capital though it was named after a more prosaic "institution" - an inn in the house of prince Volkonsky. The main attraction of the street is the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts which houses one of the finest collections of Impressionists and rich collections of European and Eastern Art. It was originally planned to be a museum of a modest purpose: organisers wanted to open a museum of plaster-casts for students but the outcome exceeded all expectations. Today it is among the best art museums of the world. It constantly organises fantastic exhibitions attracting hundreds of thousands visitors every year.
After an obligatory and inevitable trip to the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts true and tireless art lovers have an opportunity to enjoy smaller and less exhausting exhibitions offered at the Museum of Private Collections. But two museums are obviously not enough for the main art street of the capital so the third one appeared several years ago - Roerich Museum. Artists Nikolay and his son Svyatoslav Roerichs are well-known for their highly spiritual works.
Across the road in the house No 11 in 1827 Russian artist Tropinin created one of the most famous Pushkin portraits. Today copies of this portrait can be found almost in every Russian school. The "appendix" to Volkhonka is Lenivka street. This dwarf lane has a funny name - literally it means "the lazy street". According to one version, a very slow ("lazy") river was carrying its waters somewhere in the area; according to another there was a little market with sleepy and lazy salesmen.
Volkhonka bursts into Borovitskaya square. On a hill one can admire a sumptuous and majestic palace of white stone known as Pashkov's house. This masterpiece of Russian classicism, built in 1784-1785, is bathing in legends. According to one of them an incredibly gifted architect Vasily Bazhenov was not allowed to reconstruct Kremlin and to build a palace for Catherine the Great and got quite offended. So he decided to build a beautiful palace right opposite Kremlin but to turn it a little bit so that Kremlin would face the back part of the building. Another legend says that on the top of this palace grateful King of Prussia bowed to Moscow for saving his country from Napoleon. In 1839 Pashkov's house was bought by the state and several years later collections of the Russian State Library were transferred here: 28000 books, 700 manuscripts and nearly 1500 geographical maps. Now Russian State Library ("Biblioteka imeni Lenina" or simply "Leninka"), which is one of the top three biggest libraries in the world, stores its collections in the nearby building erected in 1928-1930 by architects V. Schuko and V. Gelfreikh. |
|
|
|
|
| 3. | The History of Moscow::Ancient Times and Rise of Moscow (5th-15th centuries)::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Ancient Times
In the 5th-6th centuries the ancestors of Eastern Slavs (Russians, Ukrainians, Byelorussians) spread over vast territory from the Carpathians in the West to upper Don-river in the East and from Ladoga lake in the North to the region of the Dnepr-river in the South. On their way the Slavs assimilated many tribes, for instance, Finno-Ugric. Signs of these international contacts are still registered in the Russian language, even the toponym Moscow is said to be of Finno-Ugric origin. The Slavs gradually formed big tribal unions (polyane, drevlyane, vyatichi), powerful enough to make raids on the greatest empire of those days, Byzantium, forcing Byzantian leaders to write manuscripts "How to fight Slavic barbarians".
In the 6th-7th centuries one of those unions, led by Kiy, established the city of Kiev, which was to become the capital of the ancient Russian State known as Kievian Rus. Princes of many small principalities were constantly fighting for power so an interesting decision was made to solve the problem: the Varangians (Vikings) were invited to rule the country. One of them, Ryurik, settled in Novgrod to found a dynasty, which would lead Russia to prosperity and glory, Ryurikovichi dynasty. Among his famous descendants were Prince Oleg and Prince Vladimir. Prince Oleg, the great warrior, conquered Constantinople and united Novgorod and Kiev establishing Kievian Rus. In 988 Prince Vladimir baptised Russia into Orthodox Christianity predetermining the future of Russia for many centuries.
Moscow was mentioned for the first time in chronicles under the year 1147. It was a small fortress and didn't play any important role until the 14th century.
The Mongol-Tatar Invasion
Kievian Rus consisted of many principalities, each with a prince eager to reign in Kiev. Their avidity and thirst for power caused many bloody intrigues and intestine strives. This led to disunion and weakening of the state. As a result in 1237 Russians fell easy victims to the well-organized Mongolian troops under the leadership of Batu Khan. In 1237 Tatar-Mongolian army occupied Ryazan, then Moscow, Vladimir, Kozelsk and finally in 1240 "the Mother of Russian cities", Kiev, was conquered and burnt down by the bellicose nomads. The fall of Kiev signified the decline of the Kievian Rus. For the next 240 years abased Russia paid exorbitant yearly tributes to the khans, though Russian princes were allowed to govern the country themselves.
Rise of Moscow
A proverb says: "Every cloud has a silver lining". Indeed, this difficult situation gave Moscow a chance to rise and to become one of the most influential principalities. In the 14th century Moscow Prince Ivan I Kalita ("Moneybags") was appointed chief "tax-collector"; this fact obviously gave Moscow supremacy over its neighbours. Yet Moscow was advantageously situated in the centre of many trade routes, which allowed the city to flourish. Ivan Kalita (1325-1340) was a very clever and cruel ruler, able to move heaven and earth in order to get what he wanted. During his reign Metropolitan See was transferred to Moscow to prove its importance; gradually Moscow became the richest principality and turned out to be a real threat to the Tatar-Mongolian power.
50 years later Mongolian army suffered their first ever defeat (known as the Battle of Kulikovo) from the reunited forces of many separate principalities led by Ivan Kalita's grandson, the Grand Prince of Moscow Principality Dmitry Donskoy (1359-1389). The centralization of Russian lands around Moscow began.
Anyhow, it was not until the reign of Ivan III (1462-1505), Dmitry Donskoy's grandson, that the unification of Russian principalities around Moscow was completed and the Tatar yoke was finally shaken off. Ivan the Third married Sofia Paleolog, the niece of the last Emperor of Byzantium, that had fallen to the Ottomans in 1453. Probably Sofia presented the country with the coat of arms - double-headed eagle - which is said to be of Byzantine origin. Ivan's marriage provoked the idea of Russia being the one and only successor of the Great Constantinople and the only true defender of Orthodoxy. Moscow was often referred to as "the Third Rome": the "First Rome", or the ancient one, perished because of its adherence to paganism; the "Second Rome" - Constantinople - collapsed because of its treason of Orthodoxy. Moscow became the "Third Rome" and the "Forth one" would never appear. Ivan the Third initiated the reconstruction of Kremlin in stone and he was also the one to thank for the erection of brick walls around Kremlin and the area of Kitai-Gorod. |
|
|
|
|
| 4. | From Thaw to Perestroika (1950-90s)::The History of Moscow::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Thaw and Stagnation (1950-80s)
Stalin's successor was Nikita Khrushchev. Once loyal to Stalin, he suddenly transformed into comparatively liberal Soviet governor. At the 20th Party Congress he denounced Stalin's crimes; as a result thousands of political prisoners were released and rehabilitated, forbidden books were published and many Stalin's crimes were revealed. Artists, poets, writers could breathe rather freely and many very interesting works in every art were created. This period is known as "the Thaw".
In the mean-time, the Soviets continued to be rather aggressive in their foreign affairs. In 1956 Soviet tanks invaded Hungary and in 1962 the world was one millimetre away from the nuclear war after Khrushchev's decision to base nuclear missiles on Cuba. Right after the World War II the Soviet Union and the USA started an arms race (Cold War), each trying to prove its position as the leading state. Under Khrushchev the Soviets made fantastic progress in space industry and in 1961 won the race sending the first man to space. The name of the Soviet hero was Yury Gagarin.
Khrushchev's Thaw was followed by a period of stagnation and political marasmus when Leonid Brezhnev came to power bringing bureaucracy and corruption. After his death the Politburo (the ruling top of the Communist Party) had no intention of letting a younger generation in, so Brezhnev was succeeded by a 68-year-old Andropov and a 72-year-old Chernenko. People joked that it was a period of the "Swan lake" ballet because it was shown on TV all day long when another General Secretary would leave this sinful planet forever.
Glasnost and Perestroika (1980-90s)
Mikhail Gorbachev was the man to change the situation. He became General Secretary in 1985 and announced his policies of Perestroika (restructuring) and Glasnost (openness). Gorbachev was a dynamic leader, full of new ideas and willingness to revitalize economics and make the Soviet Union more liberate. He was also the first Soviet politician to be welcomed abroad.
Gorbachev's reforms made an immense impact on the system. For the first time during the Soviet period the elections to the Congress of People's Deputies were not a complete profanation and contained an element of a true choice. In March 1990 the First Congress of National Deputies of the USSR declared a transition to the presidential system of governing and elected Mikhail Gorbachev as first President of the Soviet Union. The first and the last.
In 1990, the Soviet Union was about to collapse. Soviet republics declared their independence one after another. Boris Yeltsyn was elected first President of the Russian Republic in 1991. An end to the existence of the Soviet Union was put after the military coup organized by Defence Minister Dmitry Yazov and Vice President Georgy Yanayev in August 1991. Gorbachev was placed under house arrest, military units surrounded the building of Russian Government and tanks appeared in Moscow streets. But after three days this new provisional government was unseated, and Boris Yeltsin who stood against the tanks became a national hero. These events accelerated the collapse of the Soviet Union and brought a new state into the world - the Russian Federation. |
|
|
|
|
| 5. | Relocation Guide :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
1. Relocation Services Offered by Allied Pickfords & Delight Realty
Allied Pickfords Moscow, part of Allied Worldwide / SIRVA, the world’s biggest relocation organization, and Delight Realty, one of Moscow’s finest real estate agencies, have united their efforts and are proud to offer you and your family full relocation services in Moscow, including:
• Orientation Services & Pre-Arrival Support
• Moving to Moscow
• Home Search Assistance
• School Search
• Cultural Assistance & Settling-In Service in Moscow
• Leaving Moscow |
|
|
|
|
| 6. | Community and Religious Organizations:: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Moscow International Club
Looking to ride in Moscow Russia? New to town? Look no further, Moscow International Club is a small informal club of road enthusiasts. We use road racing bikes. Moscow International Club is happy to take on new riders, who want to be members or just to drop in. Moscow International Club does expect some level of road riding proficiency. If you are a "leisure cyclist", there might be some members or member spouses that can accomodate you. Moscow International Club can also suggest places and routes for leisure cycling. Start times vary as the sunrise in Moscow changes a lot. Moscow International Club members ride from late March to early December. During winter they have a trainer that gives them access to the velodrome for indoor cycling. We are riding at the velodrome (indoors) on Sundays as well. If you have a road bike for fast laps or if you have a track bike to use one of the world's fastest tracks please contact us.
E-mail: moscow.cycling@gmail.com
Web: www.sites.google.com/site/moscowroads. |
|
|
|
|
| 7. | Community Organizations:: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Moscow International Choir
The Moscow International Choir brings together amateur and professional singers from Russia, Sweden, The Netherlands, England, France, Wales, America, Cameroon, Iceland, and many other places around the world. The conductor is Sergei Sidorenko, a Moscow Conservatory graduate specializing in choir direction. MIC concerts are performed to raise awareness and funds for charitable causes. All funds raised beyond costs of our concerts are donated to the charity chosen by the choir. There are no auditions to join and the working language of the choir is English. All singing residents of Moscow are welcome to join! To become a member - send an email to moscow.international.choir@gmail.com.
Web: www.micrussia.tripod.com |
|
|
|
|
| 8. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Arbat::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
A wonderful area situated around one of the most ancient streets of Moscow. From the late 18th and 19th centuries, this area was dominated by the home-estates of nobles; in the second half of the 19th century, this was the place where one would find the majority of Moscow's intelligentsia. For a long time Arbat was the haunt of artists, musicians, poets, writers and intellectuals who created an indescribable bohemian atmosphere in this area of rambling streets and overgrown courtyards. Arbat along with its surroundings was almost a sacred place for many generations, an essence of this city, one of the symbols of Moscow.
Arbatskiye Vorota Square
Khudozhestvenny cinema is the first to attract your attention here with its garish posters. It was built in 1909 and in 1913 was rebuilt by the great architect Fedor Schechter, the author of such masterpieces of Moscow Moderne Style as Ryabushinsky house on Malaya Nikitskaya street and Morozov's residence on Spiridonovka street. Here the first Soviet sound film was shown and young Shostakovich worked as pianist.
Stary Arbat ("Old Arbat")
The first time Arbat was mentioned in the chronicles in 1493 and it kept its name through all these centuries, even during Soviet times when nearly every street was renamed after some communistic hero. The name Arbat is of eastern origin and it means "suburbs". The road from Moscow to Smolensk laid via Arbat and Vozdvizhenka streets and this road connected Moscow with Western Europe.
For Muscovites, it's not just a street, but a special "piece" of the capital, a kind of "Moscow within Moscow", with its own history, identity and traditions. The street's image is created by its residents. It was always "a closed world", full of exceptional people: the aristocracy and intellectuals. The list of famous Arbat people "arbatovtsy", works written, masterpieces created and scientific discoveries made in this place could serve as information for an encyclopedia. This is also the reason why many memorial museums and memorial flats are placed here. Arbat has always been one of the most beautiful streets of the city. Gradually, century after century, the street emerged with its own unique architectural style. It boasts original ancient mansions with moldings, balconies and caryatids, small cozy streets, laced lamps, stone paved roads.
During the Soviet government, Stary Arbat changed irreversibly: in early 1960s, it became the laid back street of the new modern avenue - Novy Arbat. This led to the destruction of many 18th and 19th century monuments; nevertheless, Arbat has not lost its charm. In 1986, Arbat became a pedestrian street. Today over forty embassies and ambassadors' residences are located here.
House No 2 in the beginning of Arbat is one of the best Moscow restaurants called "Prague". First it was a common inn but later it turned into a fancy place with exquisite cuisine. It was very popular among Moscow artistic bohemia. Here Chekhov was honoured after the first night of "Three Sisters".
Almost every old street has connection with Pushkin. Arbat is not an exception: in the house No 53 Pushkin and his beautiful wife Natalya Goncharova lived for a while after marriage. Nobody paid attention to this refined blue house for a long time; it was a communal flat until 1986 when Pushkin Museum was finally organised. Several years ago Arbat was presented with a sculpture of this famous couple.
The Tsoy's Wall at the corner of Arbat and Krivoarbatsky lane was an alternative to official monuments. First inscriptions and graffiti appeared shortly after the death of Victor Tsoy, Soviet rock legend of the 1980s. His fans keep coming and adding new signs expressing their emotions.
Another memorial flat is located in the house No 55. Here poet Andrey Bely, one of the greatest representatives of Symbolism in Russian literature was born. It has the same entrance with the Pushkin museum.
Arbat is a street for souvenir hunters. Different kinds of matreshkas from traditionally made ones to the ones looking like Gorbachev or even Osama Bin Laden; Russian fur hats, famous decorated shawls or Moscow views are always for sale. Antique and art shops offer wide range of precious souvenirs. After getting tired of choosing presents it is nice to have lunch in one of Arbat's numerous pubs and restaurants or listen to one of the impromptu street concerts given by just another undiscovered talent.
Arbat Lanes
The first thing that one notices in the area of Arbat is that there are almost no straight lines. It is a fanciful combination of curved lanes, gardens and courtyards. Wandering about cosy and quiet little streets might become a pleasant adventure.
In Krivoarbatsky lane a fence hides a true treasure: a strange looking house in the shape of two interlocking cylinders with more than 60 six-sided windows which was designed by the world-famous Soviet architect Konstantin Melnikov. One of the best representatives of Constructivism built this experimental house for his family and that allowed him to use all his imagination. But architect pursued a practical end as well: the house was planned to be a prototype for future housing developments.
Krivoarbatsky lane is connected to Plotnikov lane. In the 17th century it was inhabited with carpenters and joiners, and here is the origin for its name ("plotnik" stands for "carpenter"). An apartment house No 4/5 built in 1907 attracts attention with an interesting sculpture frieze picturing Turgenev, Gogol and Tolstoy surrounded by mythological figures; surprising poses of the writers' sculptures caused many rumours and malignant remarks among Muscovites. Originally sculptor Andreev made this frieze for some museum, but for unknown reason it was split into parts and put on the walls of this house.
One of the most famous lanes of Arbat - Sivtsev Vrazhek - boasts a residence of the count Fedor Tolstoy known as The American. This man with a fame of a cardsharper and troublemaker took part in the first Russian round-the-world trip with admiral Kruzenshtern. For some nasty jokes the American was left on one of the Aleutian Islands and had to walk his way home through Siberia getting covered with tattoos on his way which later allowed him to shock noble ladies in Moscow. Across the street in the house No 27 there is a memorial flat of Alexander Herzen, a radical Russian writer and probably the first Russian political emigrant.
Novy Arbat ("New Arbat")
Novy Arbat is a perfect example of resoluteness and implacability of Soviet leaders. This monster street appeared after Nikita Khruschev's visit to "The Island of Freedom" - Cuba. He fell in love with avenues and sky-scrappers in Havana and decided to build a similar street in Moscow. An entire block of old Moscow with its little streets and beautiful houses was destroyed. Today Novy Arbat is an entertainment and shopping street with numerous nightclubs, boutiques, restaurants and shops. The only sad reminder of the old days is the Church of Simeon Stolpnik. It is the oldest building in the area and the only sample of 17th century architecture. Among those giants it looks more like an expensive souvenir. |
|
|
|
|
| 9. | Arbat::Ancient Times and Rise of Moscow (5th-15th centuries)::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Arbat
A wonderful area situated around one of the most ancient streets of Moscow. From the late 18th and 19th centuries, this area was dominated by the home-estates of nobles; in the second half of the 19th century, this was the place where one would find the majority of Moscow's intelligentsia. For a long time Arbat was the haunt of artists, musicians, poets, writers and intellectuals who created an indescribable bohemian atmosphere in this area of rambling streets and overgrown courtyards. Arbat along with its surroundings was almost a sacred place for many generations, an essence of this city, one of the symbols of Moscow.
Arbatskiye Vorota Square
Khudozhestvenny cinema is the first to attract your attention here with its garish posters. It was built in 1909 and in 1913 was rebuilt by the great architect Fedor Schechter, the author of such masterpieces of Moscow Moderne Style as Ryabushinsky house on Malaya Nikitskaya street and Morozov's residence on Spiridonovka street. Here the first Soviet sound film was shown and young Shostakovich worked as pianist.
Stary Arbat (Old Arbat)
The first time Arbat was mentioned in the chronicles in 1493 and it kept its name through all these centuries, even during Soviet times when nearly every street was renamed after some communistic hero. The name Arbat is of eastern origin and it means "suburbs". The road from Moscow to Smolensk laid via Arbat and Vozdvizhenka streets and this road connected Moscow with Western Europe.
For Muscovites, it's not just a street, but a special "piece" of the capital, a kind of "Moscow within Moscow", with its own history, identity and traditions. The street's image is created by its residents. It was always "a closed world", full of exceptional people: the aristocracy and intellectuals. The list of famous Arbat people "arbatovtsy", works written, masterpieces created and scientific discoveries made in this place could serve as information for an encyclopedia. This is also the reason why many memorial museums and memorial flats are placed here. Arbat has always been one of the most beautiful streets of the city. Gradually, century after century, the street emerged with its own unique architectural style. It boasts original ancient mansions with moldings, balconies and caryatids, small cozy streets, laced lamps, stone paved roads.
During the Soviet government, Stary Arbat changed irreversibly: in early 1960s, it became the laid back street of the new modern avenue - Novy Arbat. This led to the destruction of many 18th and 19th century monuments; nevertheless, Arbat has not lost its charm. In 1986, Arbat became a pedestrian street. Today over forty embassies and ambassadors' residences are located here.
House No 2 in the beginning of Arbat is one of the best Moscow restaurants called "Prague". First it was a common inn but later it turned into a fancy place with exquisite cuisine. It was very popular among Moscow artistic bohemia. Here Chekhov was honoured after the first night of "Three Sisters".
Almost every old street has connection with Pushkin. Arbat is not an exception: in the house No 53 Pushkin and his beautiful wife Natalya Goncharova lived for a while after marriage. Nobody paid attention to this refined blue house for a long time; it was a communal flat until 1986 when Pushkin Museum was finally organised. Several years ago Arbat was presented with a sculpture of this famous couple.
The Tsoy's Wall at the corner of Arbat and Krivoarbatsky lane was an alternative to official monuments. First inscriptions and graffiti appeared shortly after the death of Victor Tsoy, Soviet rock legend of the 1980s. His fans keep coming and adding new signs expressing their emotions.
Another memorial flat is located in the house No 55. Here poet Andrey Bely, one of the greatest representatives of Symbolism in Russian literature was born. It has the same entrance with the Pushkin museum.
Arbat is a street for souvenir hunters. Different kinds of matreshkas from traditionally made ones to the ones looking like Gorbachev or even Osama Bin Laden; Russian fur hats, famous decorated shawls or Moscow views are always for sale. Antique and art shops offer wide range of precious souvenirs. After getting tired of choosing presents it is nice to have lunch in one of Arbat's numerous pubs and restaurants or listen to one of the impromptu street concerts given by just another undiscovered talent.
Arbat Lanes
The first thing that one notices in the area of Arbat is that there are almost no straight lines. It is a fanciful combination of curved lanes, gardens and courtyards. Wandering about cosy and quiet little streets might become a pleasant adventure.
In Krivoarbatsky lane a fence hides a true treasure: a strange looking house in the shape of two interlocking cylinders with more than 60 six-sided windows which was designed by the world-famous Soviet architect Konstantin Melnikov. One of the best representatives of Constructivism built this experimental house for his family and that allowed him to use all his imagination. But architect pursued a practical end as well: the house was planned to be a prototype for future housing developments.
Krivoarbatsky lane is connected to Plotnikov lane. In the 17th century it was inhabited with carpenters and joiners, and here is the origin for its name ("plotnik" stands for "carpenter"). An apartment house No 4/5 built in 1907 attracts attention with an interesting sculpture frieze picturing Turgenev, Gogol and Tolstoy surrounded by mythological figures; surprising poses of the writers' sculptures caused many rumours and malignant remarks among Muscovites. Originally sculptor Andreev made this frieze for some museum, but for unknown reason it was split into parts and put on the walls of this house.
One of the most famous lanes of Arbat - Sivtsev Vrazhek - boasts a residence of the count Fedor Tolstoy known as The American. This man with a fame of a cardsharper and troublemaker took part in the first Russian round-the-world trip with admiral Kruzenshtern. For some nasty jokes the American was left on one of the Aleutian Islands and had to walk his way home through Siberia getting covered with tattoos on his way which later allowed him to shock noble ladies in Moscow. Across the street in the house No 27 there is a memorial flat of Alexander Herzen, a radical Russian writer and probably the first Russian political emigrant.
Novy Arbat (New Arbat)
Novy Arbat is a perfect example of resoluteness and implacability of Soviet leaders. This monster street appeared after Nikita Khruschev's visit to "The Island of Freedom" - Cuba. He fell in love with avenues and sky-scrappers in Havana and decided to build a similar street in Moscow. An entire block of old Moscow with its little streets and beautiful houses was destroyed. Today Novy Arbat is an entertainment and shopping street with numerous nightclubs, boutiques, restaurants and shops. The only sad reminder of the old days is the Church of Simeon Stolpnik. It is the oldest building in the area and the only sample of 17th century architecture. Among those giants it looks more like an expensive souvenir. |
|
|
|
|
| 10. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Lubyanka::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Novaya Ploshchad ("New Square")
Novaya square forms a kind of border between Kitai-Gorod and Lubyanka. Long pale building in Pseudo-Russian style on Novaya square for many years has been a centre of scientific, cultural and social life, housing Polytechnic Museum. The edifice that we see today was created in 1874 by architects I. Monginetti, N. Shokhin and I. Mashkov. Polytechnic Museum became a place where public lectures were given, scientific experiments were demonstrated, conferences and debates were organised. In the 60s it also was a "centre point" of poetry: in its auditoria many fabulous poets of this "poetry boom" period (Evgeny Evtushenko, Bella Akhmadulina, Andrey Voznesensky) captivated people's souls with magic power of words.
At the end of Polytechnic Museum one can see a monument to heroes of Plevna, Turkish city famous for a crucial battle between Russians and Turks in 1877. Today this place is known to be a meeting point of gay scene. At the low end of the little boulevard Great Brothers Cyrill and Mephodius are holding a bronze book with their own Cyrillic alphabet.
Staraya Ploshchad ("Old Square")
Saint Brothers are standing on Staraya square. As many Moscow street names it deludes tourists: first of all it has nothing to do with a square and, secondly, it is actually newer than Novaya ("New") square. In the end of the 18th century Staraya square was a flea market, in the 19th century apartment houses appeared here like mushrooms after the rain. Today the Administration of the President occupies houses No 2-8 (former Moscow Merchant Association, hotel and a trading house). Among these buildings there is the Church of the Trinity in Nikitniki.
Lubyanskaya Square
Lubyanskaya square inspired several generations of Muscovites with fear and horror. House No 2 reconstructed by the author of mausoleum A. Shusev remembers almost all secret services in Russia. During the last 80 years it has changed name more than 10 times from CheKa to FSB and today the first thing that crosses the mind of any Russian when he/she hears "Lubyanka" is prison, tortures and pain. Here people were brought for interrogations, beaten, tortured and later sent to camps of GULAG (The Central Administrative of the Labour Camps) in Kolyma; millions of prisoners never returned. They were kept in special inner prison of this scary house and taken for a walk to the roof. As a result a sad joke was born: "What is the highest building in Moscow? - "Lubyanka, one can see Kolyma from its roof."
For a long time the statue of Felix Dzerzhinsky, the head of CheKa stood on Lubyanskaya square. In 1991 it was removed to the garden near the Central House of Artists and joined other statues of not-wanted communistic politicians. Instead of Dzerzhinsky Solovetsky stone was erected on Lubyanskaya square as a monument to all those who suffered from the totalitarian regime.
Bolshaya Lubyanka
Bolshaya Lubyanka street also knew bloody moments in its history. In the courtyard of houses No 7-9 one can still see boyars Khovanskiye's brick chambers built in the 17th century. In 1682 Ivan Khovansky headed the Streletsky riot ("strelets" was a member of special military corps in Muscovite Russia); when the rising was put down, tsarina Sofia ordered to execute Khovansky and many other leaders of the riot. On the basis of this story Mussorgsky wrote his opera "Khovanshchina". House No 14 is a magnificent mansion built in the late baroque style. This reconstructed house used to be the residence of Prince Dmitry Pozharsky - the hero of Russian-Polish war of 1612.
One of Moscow ancient monasteries is located on Bolshaya Lubyanka. Its name is Sretensky monastery and it was founded in the 14th century. As the legend goes this monastery was built on a place where in 1395 Muscovites came to meet the holy icon of Our Lady of Vladimir. The icon was brought to Moscow to help people in their struggle against Tatar invaders. The miracle happened - the Tatars suddenly left Moscow. After the October revolution many edifices in the monastery were destroyed. Only the Cathedral of Vladimirskaya Icon of the Mother of God erected in 1679 and monk's cells are preserved.
Myasnitskaya
Rather non-appetizing name (literally "butcher street") was given to this street after the representatives of this profession who lived here in the 16th-17th centuries. Myasnitskaya was "ennobled" in the 18th century when Tsar Peter's retinue began to settle here in hope to deserve majestic attention: Peter the Great used this road when he visited his favourite German village in Lefortovo.
At the corner of Myasnitskaya street and Lubyansky passage one of the most unusual museums is waiting for those who are curious to know more about bright and tragic life of the extraordinary Soviet poet Vladimir Mayakovsky.
House No 26 for more than 300 years allows people to keep in touch with their beloved ones wherever they are - it is Moscow General Post Office. It was founded in 1700 although modern building was constructed in 1912 by Munts.
Kuznetsky Most
Kuznetsky Most street connects Bolshaya Lubyanka and Neglinnaya streets. Once its name ("most" stands for "bridge") was perfectly suitable: this street used to be a bridge over Neglinka river. Today both the bridge and the river are history.
Kuznetsky Most used to be (and still is) fashion "heaven": all the noblemen would come here to buy a hat or a dress of the latest style. Mostly Frenchmen were owners of the shops and that saved Kuznetsky Most when Napoleon army set Moscow on fire before leaving the city: French soldiers had mercy on their compatriots. Now Kuznetsky Most is perfect for shopping: a large number of (mostly luxurious) clothing and shoes stores can be found here.
Frenchmen were trendsetters not only in fashion but in restaurant business as well. At the corner of Kuznetsky Most and Neglinnaya streets there is a house No 9 in which in 1826 Frenchman Trinkle opened the legendary restaurant "Yar". Alexander Pushkin and his friends were among its visitors. House No 11 is the right place for those who are looking for gifts and souvenirs. It is the Moscow House of Artist with a little market inside offering all kinds of knick-knacks.
Neglinnaya
Neglinnaya street replaced Neglinka river that was enclosed into an underground pipe in 1818. The legendary Sandunovskiye Banyas are located on Neglinnaya. They were founded in 1806 by the famous actor Sila Sandunov and they were popular from the very opening. The last owner decided to turn it into a true Temple of Cleanness with marble swimming-pool, majestic architecture and fabulous decorations. No wonder that people wait for hours to enjoy a hot bath at "Sanduny". |
|
|
|
|
| 11. | Relocation Guide :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
5. Adopt a Cat or Dog
If you are moving to Moscow or are presently living in Moscow and would like to adopt a cat or dog, please consider adopting a pet from an animal shelter!
Homeless animals are a big problem in Moscow, there are literally thousands of them, and as of today there are no official state shelters or animal homes. Only a few lucky dogs and cats are temporarily given a new home at one of several private animal shelters in the city, and even smaller numbers eventually go to a good new home. |
|
|
|
|
| 12. | Business Groups :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Moscow International Business Association (MIBA)
Established in 1997 and politically supported by Mayor Yuri Luzhkov, the Association organizes investment forums and other major business events in Moscow and abroad. MIBA has 18 regional offices, as well as offices in the US, Israel, Zambia, Germany and Finland. Recently MIBA’s member list contains about 200 foreign and Russian companies, dynamically working on Moscow and Russian market. The main purpose of MIBA is to form top-comfort conditions for SME activity in Moscow and regions Russian Government cooperates with.
Address: Novy Arbat ul., 36/9
Metro: Smolenskaya
Tel: 690-9107
Fax: 694-7820
E-mail: miba@mibas.ru
Web: www.mibas.ru |
|
|
|
|
| 13. | About The Moscow Expat Site :: The virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians, Moscow, Russia
|
Liability
The Moscow Expat Site ("the site") assumes no liability for the accuracy or truthfulness of messages posted by users of the "Message Folders". Anyone posting messages to The Moscow Expat Site assumes responsibility for the posting. While The Moscow Expat Site makes every effort to insure that other information on the site is accurate and up to date, the site and its publishers assume no liability for inaccurate or out of date information. Further, users of The Moscow Expat Site understand that by posting to the "Message Folders" they make available to all site users certain information about themselves, and, at the very minimum, provide other users with the means of contacting them publicly (through the "Message Folders") or privately (through the user's private mailbox). While The Moscow Expat Site shall take measures to warn and ultimately bar site users who are abusive, the site and its publishers assume no responsibility or liability for any responses that may be sent as a result of any posting made by a user to its "Message Folders". |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 17. | TV Sportland Calendar :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
The NUMBER 1 bookmakers and sports bar in Moscow, dedicated to offering you the widest range of bets and the largest showing of live sports from around the world, 12:00 - 04:00 every day!
With a large projector screen, 60” Plasma and another 40 LCD/TV’s
We have more choice than any bar, where you can watch up to 20 different events simultaneously
In four different rooms!!
Our bookmakers covers every event so you can have a bet while watching your team win!
Not only the regular bets, we have all opportunities available including a full “in running” betting service
On all Live football matches!!
Added to this, Sportland is the ONLY place in Moscow to watch and bet on LIVE Horse & Dog racing from the UK, USA and South Africa, 7 days a week!!!
Our restaurant has a great range of meals and snacks with the biggest portions you have ever seen.
The bar is always fully stocked with Russian and Western beer/spirits at the most competitive prices.
Sportland Bookmakers – The only place in Moscow to watch and bet on what YOU want!!! |
|
|
|
|
| 18. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Boulevard Ring::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Today boulevards are Moscow integral part, and it is difficult to imagine that only two centuries ago there were no trees and park benches but an assailable fortress wall, the wall which surrounded the area of the Kremlin and Kitai-Gorod. It was built of white stone, therefore the enclosed city was named Bely Gorod, or "White City". For many centuries this wall, built in the end of the 16th century, scared away the enemies with its imposing size - 10 metres (33 ft.) high and 5-6 (16-19 ft.) metres thick. By the 18th century it had lost its defensive significance and started to dilapidate; that is why it was dismantled and replaced with the Boulevard Ring.
The Boulevard Ring is comprised of the following boulevards: Gogolevsky Boulevard, Nikitsky Boulevard, Tverskoy Boulevard, Strastnoy Boulevard, Petrovsky Boulevard, Rozhdestvensky Boulevard, Sretensky Boulevard, Chistoprudny Boulevard, Pokrovsky Boulevard, Yauzsky Boulevard. It forms a semi-circle around the center of Moscow and is ideal for leisurely strolls. A walk along the boulevard ring's park-like areas is a great way to explore the city center, undisturbed by traffic. The park strip is situated in the middle of the road, in-between traffic lanes. Scores of beautiful old buildings are located along this route (and down the side streets leading off the Boulevard Ring), and there are plenty of benches to sit and relax on along the way. It is also well worth venturing into some of the side streets branching off from the ring - you will find lots of pretty lanes with interesting buildings there.
Gogolevsky Boulevard
Gogolevsky Boulevard is the only one that preserved some features of former Moscow landscape: boulevard's inner side is much higher than its outer side. It is a lovely place for a promenade and a favourite place of dating couples. Close to Arbat there is a monument to one of Russia's greatest writers - Nikolay Gogol, whose name was given to this boulevard.
At the corner of Znamenka street and Gogolevsky boulevard there is a reconstructed mansion of Apraksiny, one of the richest families in 19th century Moscow. Their house was famous for its theatre where some of Russian greatest actors appeared on stage for the first time. In 1812 French officer of the Napoleon army Henry Beil stayed in this house. This officer was to become the world famous writer Stendhal. House No 10 is famous for secret meetings of the Decembrists (the first Russian revolutionaries). Today it is occupied by Russian Chess Association.
Petrovsky Boulevard
Petrovsky boulevard was named after the Vysokopetrovsky monastery. But buildings here are not as old as the monastery. The oldest one is dated 1786. Once it was a palace of count Tatishchev, noble grandee of Catherine the Great. Magnificent balls attracted all Moscow aristocrats here and even Tsar Pavel I favoured Tatishchev with His Majestic visit. Elegantly looking house No 17 was built by R. Klein. Probably once it attracted as many people as Tatishchev's balls: it was a famous wine-shop owned by Dupret.
House No 14 at the corner of Neglinnaya street and Petrovsky boulevard is a "permanent address" of Melpomene and Thalia - famous Moscow theatre "School of Modern Play". Before the revolution it was an institution more appropriate for a residence of the Cooking Muse: beloved by Moscow intellectuals restaurant "Hermitage" offered its delicious dishes here. Petr Tchaikovsky enjoyed it enough to organise his own wedding here in 1877. And the whole Russia must be grateful to the chef of this restaurant Lucien Olivier for inventing a salad later known in Russia as "Olivier" and in the rest of the world as "the Russian salad": a mixture of potatoes, eggs, meat, cucumbers and plenty of mayonnaise. And another fine tradition began here: the day of Tatyana, students' day, was celebrated here for the first time.
Petrovsky Boulevard runs into Trubnaya Square. In the 17th century there was once a deep hole in the wall of the White City: Neglinka river used this hole to carry its waters to the White City and the square used this hole or pipe ("truba") as a name. In 1840s the first pet market ("Ptichy rynok", literally "bird's market") appeared here and brought a nice tradition: every year on the Annunciation day people would let doves free.
Rozhdestvensky Boulevard
Rozhdestvensky boulevrad is the next link in the chain of boulevards. Once it was a steep bank of Neglinka river. The boulevard was given its name after ancient Rozhdestvensky convent which is situated at the corner of the boulevard and Rozhdestvenka street. It is said to be founded by Prince Ivan Kalita's daughter-in-law, countess Maria in 1380s. She was the proud mother of Vladimir the Brave who was a hero of the Battle of Kulikovo in 1380. Many wives and widows of those who had taken part in the battle helped to build this convent.
Most of the ancient buildings have not preserved because of numerous fires that the convent had been through, but some churches survived. The Cathedral of the Nativity of Mother of God was erected in 1501-1505 and in the 19th century one lady donated a sum of money which allowed architect Kozlovsky to add a bell-tower to the architectural ensemble of the convent. In the beginning of the 20th century Fedor Schechter himself was involved in the construction works. When communists came to power they closed the Rozhdestvensky convent to organise communal flats, police office and a club for policemen here. 70 years later it was returned to the Orthodox Church.
Sretenky Boulevard
Rozhdestvensky boulevard used to be a part of Sretensky boulevard but it split off and Sretensky boulevard became the shortest boulevard in Moscow (it is only 214 metres (0.1 mi.) long). Historically, this area was a home for market and trade, with craftsmen living and working here. Nowadays, there are a lot of reconstructed old buildings in that part of Moscow. So, if you are interested in living in the "old city", you should choose the Sretenka street area. In the 17th century, the area of Sretenka was built up by benches of dealers and workshops of handicraftsmen - a new, large Sretensky village. The length of the whole modern Sretenka is only 800 meters (0.5 mi.), but it is literally cut up by lanes: on the left side of the street there are seven, and on right - nine. There are also lanes that do not lead directly to Sretenka, but are in immediate proximity. The area of Sretenka is characterized by a big number of reconstructed buildings, which have in most parts kept the historical facades that are typical for old Moscow. The paradox of the area is that there are a considerable amount of dilapidated buildings, often adjoining modern and reconstructed structures. The area's buildings are concentrated along the streets Sretenka, Trubnaya and Tsvetnoy boulevard, where coffee houses, restaurants and shops are located.
Chistoprudny Boulevard
People come to Chistye Prudy ("Clean Ponds") searching for "Moscow idyll": cosy boulevard, lime-trees and lilacs, boats sliding over the pond and children feeding swans and ducks. A couple of centuries ago everything was quite different. Those "clean" ponds were once a big dirty puddle and butchers, who inhabited the district, used them as a sewage place. Logically the first unofficial name of these ponds was "Foul Ponds".
In the 18th century Alexander Menshikov, Peter the Great's favourite, became owner of this area. His delicate scent couldn't bear terrible stench coming from the ponds, so Menshikov ordered to clean them; since then they have been known as "Clean Ponds". In summer people come here to swim in a boat, and in winter the pond turns into one of the most popular skating-rinks with lovely illumination.
Chistye Prudy gave name to one of the cosiest Moscow boulevards - Chistoprudny boulevard. As well as other Moscow boulevards, in 1820s it replaced the brick walls of the ancient White City. It begins with a monument to one of the best Russian playwrights Alexander Griboedov. He was a person of versatile talents: he sang, brilliantly danced, was successful in studying all the fields of knowledge; he was a master of fence, dashing horseman, and a gifted writer (his most famous play is "Grief from Mind").
To the right from the monument one can see a pink bell-tower with something like a golden cone on the top. It is the Church of the Archangel Gabriel on Arkhangelsky lane. The man who had cleaned the ponds, Alexander Menshikov, ordered to build a cathedral higher then the Ivan the Great's Bell Tower in the Kremlin. At that time it was regarded as an unbelievable impertinence and impudence. Moreover, Menshikov bought a gigantic chiming clock and placed it on the wall of the church. Such arrogance was punished very soon: during a storm lighting hit the tower and the burning debris fell down, crippling and killing the innocent parishioners. Couple of years later Menshikov became seriously ill and fell into disgrace.
Chistoprudny boulevard and its surroundings was a residential area for Moscow nobility; many of their mansions are still seen here. In Bolshoi Kharitonievsky lane there is an imposing 17th century house with fabulous cast fence, which once belonged to a wealthy grandee Yusupov. Yusupov was famous for his fantastic collection of art, not less fantastic collection of mistresses in his harem and his extravagant behaviour.
Considerable part of local buildings appeared in the late 19th - early 20th century. One of them, former apartment house No 14 is a remarkable example of Moscow Art Nouveau. Here architect S. Vashkov tried to revive the spirit of pagan Russia, placing mysterious mythological creatures on the facades. Once this house belonged to the Church of Trinity on the Mire, named after its location on the muddy banks of the Rachka river. During its tercentennial history this church has survived many destructions and reconstructions; as a result of all this it has unfortunately lost its dome. In another former apartment house, No 23, the great film director Sergey Eisenstein, who influenced not only Soviet but also the world's art of film making, lived from 1920 to 1934.
Pokrovsky and Yauzsky Boulevards
Quiet and cosy, they lead down to the Moscow-river; now it is hard to imagine that not far from this peaceful and pleasant area once was situated Moscow underworld, criminal headquarters, true inferno. The district between Pevchesky and Petropavlovsky lanes, known as Khitrovka, inspired fear and horror into the entire city. Thieves, murderers, prostitutes, convicts and fugitives inhabited dark lanes and dirty dens, and even policemen were afraid to step down into this hell. Only in 1923 Soviet police organised a massive raid to Khitrovka and managed to get rid of this pit. |
|
|
|
|
| 19. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::The Kremlin Area::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
The Kremlin
The Kremlin traces its history since 1156 (first mentioned in chronicle), when prince Yury Dolgoruky built wooden walls of future fortress on Borovitsky hill. Moscow didn't play any important role in the country till 1328, when Ivan Kalita, son of Moscow Prince Dmitry, became the Grand Prince of Russian State. He broadened the fortress and built a new oak wall around it. That time citadel has got its modern name, the Kremlin ("kremnik" means "forest" in old Russian), and became the residence of Metropolitan and Grand Prince. But the wooden walls, although invulnerable, suffered from fire, and in 1367 fortifications of white stone were built around the Kremlin by Prince Dmitry Ivanovich (later named Donskoy). Since then Moscow is called "a white stone city".
In the end of the 15th century Italian craftsmen built the new walls and towers of red brick, and, according to the evidences of foreign travelers, the Kremlin looked like a medieval castle. Even when Peter the Great moved the capital to St. Petersburg, the Kremlin kept its significance: Russian emperors were still crowned in the Assumption Cathedral, and the whole Moscow gathered here for the great church festivals. In 1918 Moscow became the capital again. The Kremlin was occupied by the Bolshevik government, and it became impossible to enter it without special pass. Only in 1955 the gates of the citadel were reopened to public, and the government residence became an open-air museum of history and architecture.
Now this symbol of Russian State is the official residence of the President. It is a preserved area, protected and guarded by the State and included in the UNESCO List of Cultural and Natural Heritage of the World.
Manezhnaya Square
Sculptor Zurab Tsereteli was awarded the privilege to embellish Manezhnaya square with heroes of Russian folk-tales and to place bronze horses surrounded by a cloud of water-drops in the fountains. The bronze horseman near the Red Square is one of Soviet greatest commanders - marshal Georgy Zhukov, the hero of the Great Patriotic War. An interesting red building in Pseudo-Russian style serves as a background for the Zhukov monument: it is the State Historical Museum, a quaint creation of architects V. Shervud and A. Semenov. Passing by the Historical Museum don't forget to stand on the 'zero kilometer'; from this point all the distances in Russia are said to be measured.
Teatralnaya Square
Petrovskaya, Tsvetochnaya, Teatralnaya, Sverdlova and again Teatralnaya - the name of the square changed many times as well as its architectural appearance. In the 1820s architect Osip Bove completely reconstructed Teatralnaya square; as a result, Moscow got rid of a stinking cesspit that the square had been turned into and now is proud of having such a marvellous place. Bove planned to create an architectural ensemble which would consist of five buildings in the late classicism style. The dominant of the square would be the Bolshoi Theatre. Unfortunately Maly Theatre is the only Bove's edifice that survived until now.
Petrovsky theatre, the "ancestor" of the Bolshoi Theatre, opened in 1780 and burnt down in 1806. Osip Bove's creation burnt down as well. The third attempt was the successful one. Reconstructed by architect Kavos in 1853, the Bolshoi Theatre is still one of capital's main attractions. It was also in 1853 that the theatre got its symbol: four bronze horses on the roof. Author of this chariot was famous sculptor Peter Klodt. The Bolshoi Theatre is a world-famous cultural centre and its ballet and opera stars get standing ovation all over the world. The reconstruction of the theatre is due to be finished in the late 2011.
Across the street there is another sight of Teatralnaya square - a luxurious hotel "Metropol" (architects I. Valkott and L. Kekushev). Mosaic panels on its walls were designed by Mikhail Vrubel, a fabulous Russian artist of the early 20th century. The original painting is now in the collections of Tretyakov gallery.
Red Square
Voskresenskie vorota ("gates") are the last obstacle on the way to the main square in Russia - "Krasnaya Ploshchad". The name of this symbol of Moscow suits it perfectly: "krasny" in Old Russian meant "beautiful" and it is beautiful indeed, though its modern look was gained with certain difficulties. Once the Red Square was a centre of trade spangled with motley stalls whose boisterous owners offered pan-cakes, kvas, candles, cloth and other goods. But shops and wooden churches in the Red Square were of great fire hazard so they were destroyed and a trading square turned into a place for open-air merrymaking.
Wooden buildings haven't preserved, but some architectural masterpieces are still seen to the delight of Muscovites and tourists. Probably the most famous Russian church stands here - the Cathedral of St. Basil. Monument to Minin and Prince Pozharsky stands in front of the cathedral reminding every Russian about difficult moments in its history. Before 1936 the monument was placed in the centre of the Red Square, but in Soviet times it impeded the military parades. There was an idea to destroy the statue, but it was only moved to the Cathedral of Intercession. It was the first monumental statue in Russia depicting not a nobleman, but "a common citizen".
Not far from this monument there is a stony area surrounded by a low barrier of white stone with a cast-iron fence known as "Lobnoe Mesto". In 1786 this construction replaced the ramshackle brick erection with a hipped roof, which was built in the first half of the 16th century. Situated on the highest place on the Red Square, it symbolizes the Golgotha Mountain, where Jesus Christ was crucified (Golgotha means "forehead" - "lob" in Russian). For ages it functioned as a rostrum from which Russian tsars addressed the nation on special occasions. The legend that it was used as a scaffold is not completely true: no one was ever executed on "Lobnoe Mesto", but the special scaffolds were usually built quite near by.
Across the Square it is the last haven of the first Soviet leader - Lenin Mausoleum. After his death in 1924 it was decided to preserve the body and to construct a special building to keep it. Designed by Shchusev, a pyramid of cubes cut from red granite decorated with marble and black labradorite replaced experimental wooden mausoleum. After the disintegration of the USSR the Mausoleum lost its significance and in 1996 guard of honor near it was cancelled. Although some political leaders repeatedly suggest to bury Lenin as a regular man, the Government still has not made a final decision about it.
In the middle of the Red Square one of the biggest shops of the country attracts millions of visitors every year - Main Universal Store (GUM). This place, known before the Revolution as Upper Trade Rows, has been "a shopping center" of Moscow for ages. An old building of the Upper Trade Rows, designed by O. Bove, was erected in 1815. But as it was owned by several traders, they could never come to a decision to repair the building, and so it gradually went to pieces. At last in 1890 the government forced the owners to erect a new building, and in 1893 the project of A. Pomerantsev came to reality. Built in pseudo-Russian style, it consists of three passages, each three-storied, now called lines. A unique round glass roof 14 meters (43 ft.) in diameter, designed by V. Shukhov, and the front decorated with dummy joint makes GUM one of the symbols of the Red Square, now easy recognizable for every Russian.
Close to GUM the beautiful Kazansky Cathedral makes you want to stand for a moment. It was built after the victory over Polish invaders in 1612 but its heroic background didn't save it from demolishing in 1936. Fortunately it was brought back to life in 1993.
Mokhovaya
Mokhovaya street is a continuation of Okhotny Ryad street, lying between Tverskaya and the Kremlin. Long ago it was a place where dried moss ("mokh") was sold from stalls; this is the reason for such an unusual name. Moss was used in ancient Russia to pack joints between the beams of traditional wooden house ("izba"). Since the first half of the 19th century this street is closely connected with Moscow State University - its first building was situated on the Red Square, right in the place of contemporary State Historical Museum. During the Moscow fire of 1812 that building was completely destroyed, and professors with their students moved to Mokhovaya, to the new building designed by Domenico Gilardi. In 1832 one more building, the Pashkov family mansion, was bought for the University by Nikolay I; since that Mokhovaya street became a University campus.
Right opposite to the old University the building of Manage demonstrates all the amenities of the Empire Style: pompousness, sumptuousness, spirit of patriotism and war glory. In 1825 great architect Osip Bove managed to create a perfect "palace" for parades, practice manoeuvres. Today Manage is used with more peaceful purpose: it is an exhibition hall, constantly displaying modern art.
Vozdvizhenka
It is one of the oldest streets in Moscow: it is known to be here already in the 13th century. In the end of Vozdvizhenka that faces Arbat an unusual building in Mauritanian style provokes curiosity. Its wonderful name is the House of Friendship between Nations of Europe ("Dom Druzhby"). Architect V. Mazyrin built this luxurious mansion for Arseny Morozov after Morozov's trip to Spain and Portugal. It was known among Muscovites as "Spanish castle" and gossip was spread about wild parties thrown by the owner. Another well-known rumour says that Morozov's mother, who lived nearby, once expressed her admiration for this house in a rather unusual way: "Before, only I knew you were a fool; now the whole Moscow will know." In 1959 the House of Friendship opened its doors for visitors, at that time the first woman-astronaut Valentina Tereshkova held the post of the director. |
|
|
|
|
| 20. | Snow Arena Polo World Cup Moscow :: The virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians, Moscow, Russia
|
Snow Arena Polo World Cup Moscow
February, 28-29
Central Moscow Hippodrome
Snow Arena Polo World Cup Moscow, to be held on February 28-29, 2004, in the Central Moscow Hippodrome, will be the first competition of its kind in Russia. Organized by the Moscow Polo Club, this will be a historic event in the sport of polo. Internationally renowned polo players and polo personalities have confirmed their participation. The list of invitees includes polo club owners, businessmen, politicians and polo fans from all over the world. One team from England and two teams from Italy will be battling for the honor of claiming to have won Russia’s first polo on snow tournament. The organizers expect this event to become an annual event and the final stop of the European polo on snow circuit which is played in France, Switzerland and Italy.
The aristocratic sport of polo has a long-established tradition in this part of the world. Russia’s first polo tournaments were held in the days of the tsars. However, the Bolshevik coup of 1917 caused a long break in this tradition.
Now, the Moscow Polo Club and its founding President Victor Huaco are reviving the sport of polo in Russia after nearly a century-long hiatus. The First Russian Polo Cup in 2003, which took place last September and featured some of the world’s best polo players, drew over 400 spectators. In that tournament, the ESN Group team emerged as the winner.
Snow Arena Polo World Cup Moscow will surely be one of the most exciting and spectacular events in Russia’s capital this year, in both the world of sports and the world of high society.
www.moscowpolo.com – the web site of Moscow Polo Club.
EVENT PROGRAM
SNOW ARENA POLO WORLD CUP MOSCOW
Date: Saturday 28th and Sunday the 29th of February 2004
12:00-16:00
TimeEvent12.00-12.30Arrival of the guests12.30-15.00 Officially announce the Opening of the tournament
Welcome of the President Moscow Polo Club
Polo teams parade
Players presentation
Games15.00 Closing the tournament
Prize giving
|
|
|
|
|
| 21. | Public Transport::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Public Transport
MOSCOW METRO
When it first opened in 1935, the system had just one line. Today, the Moscow metro contains 12 lines, mostly underground with a total of more than 175 stations. The metro is one of the deepest subway systems in the world. It is a great, fast, efficient, and cheap way to get around town, with stations close to most major places of interest in the city center. Trains run every couple of minutes from early morning to late at night. They can get very crowded during morning and evening rush hours. Stations that are always crowded are those adjacent to railway stations and bus terminals (for example, Kievskaya, Belorusskaya).
Many of Moscow's metro stations were designed and embellished by prominent Russian architects, artists and sculptors and are incredibly beautiful - especially those in the city center and the ones on the brown circle line, which connects seven of Moscow's nine railway stations to each other. When you start exploring Moscow on the metro, take some time to get off at each station to have a closer look. The metro runs from 05:35 to 01:00. Intervals between trains during the day are usually no more than a few minutes but can be longer in the early morning or late evening.
Brief History of the Moscow Metro
The story started in the beginning of the 20th century. The first and very unusual project of the underground was offered by engineer Peter Balinsky in 1902. According to his plan trains were supposed to pass across the Red Square over the heads of the astonished people in horse-carriages, but this project was rejected as well as many others. Only in 1931 the dream of many architects and progress adherents came true and the construction began. On May 15th 1935 the first line covering the distance from Sokolniki to Gorky Park was opened for public use. The lucky owner of the ticket No. 1 presented this precious piece of paper to the Museum of Moscow Metro.
Finding a Metro Station
Metro entrances are easy to find - they are indicated by big red letters "M", which are illuminated at night.
Metro Tickets
Fare: 26 Rbs per ticket (as of June 2010). Children under the age of seven travel free of charge.
The fee for 1 trip is fixed, i.e. it does not depend on the length of your journey, you can make as many line-changes as you wish, and stay down in the metro as long as you like - it is valid until you exit the metro system. Tickets are available for 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 60, 70 rides and there is also a common ticket for 70 rides in all kinds of transport. You can also buy season tickets of different kinds: season tickets with limited number of rides for 5 days (1, 2 rides), season tickets with limited number of rides for 45 days (5, 10, 20, 60 rides), season tickets with limited number of rides for one calendar month (70 rides) and season tickets with unlimited number of rides: for 30 days, for 90 days and for 365 days.
Metro tickets can be obtained from the "kassas" (ticket booths) that are located inside each metro station. The tickets come in the form of smart cards. To enter the metro system, touch the yellow circle on the turnstile with your ticket. After you touch the yellow circle, the other circle a bit lower will show in green light how many rides are left (or illuminate in green if you have the season ticket). The red light on the ticket-barrier will go out briefly, and you can now enter through the turnstile.
If your ticket is not valid, the turnstile will make a buzz sound and the red circle will be still on. If you are sure that your ticket is valid, but the turnstile won't let you in, do not be desperate; just touch the yellow circle of the same turnstile one more time. Normally, if the ticket is valid, the turnstile will work. You don't need your ticket to exit the metro.
Moscow Metro Peculiarities
In one way the Moscow metro is definitely different from all other underground railways in the world: it was planned not only as a comfortable and easily accessible transport but also as powerful means of propaganda. The idea was to immortalize the greatness of socialism; as a result Moscow underground became one of the most grandiose phenomena of the Stalin era. Its pompous architecture and sumptuous designs allow Moscow metro to remain one of the most popular tourist attractions.
Each central station has its own unique style. For example Teatralnaya station is decorated with majolica bas-reliefs picturing folk dances. In the niches of Ploshchad Revolutsii there are 76 bronze statues imaging the creators of the communism. Kievskaya and Belorusskaya are adorned with national ornaments of Ukraine and Belarus.
Among other sumptuous metro stations Mayakovskaya is a true pearl of underground architecture. It is included in the UNESCO List of World Cultural and Natural Heritage. Silvery steel columns match beautifully with red and pink shades of rhodonite. The ceiling has 36 mosaic panels made of coloured glass created by very famous Soviet-era artist Alexander Deineka.
As money becoming tighter during the 1960s and 1970s the opulent designs of new stations were sacrificed in favour of better geographic coverage and investment into rail technology - the stations of this era look far more prosaic by comparison. However, in the Medvedev era funds are being found to build new stations - some of which are built in a "fake-Empire" style glorifying Russia's 19th-century past (e.g. Trubnaya), while yet others illustrate contemporary minimalist design styles (e.g. Vorobyovy Gory). Money is now finally being found to restore the first-generation stations (such as Mayakovskaya) to their original glory - and to invest in new rolling-stock and track.
Finding your Way around the Metro
It is not very difficult to find your way around on the metro. For convenience, each metro line has its own distinct colour. Information boards on the station walls show the stations that are served by the particular line you are on. They also indicate all possible transfers to other lines. Signs inside metro stations are in Russian only. Each train car has a metro map close to one or more of the doors. These maps are bilingual (Russian, English).
When you are on the train, the driver will make the following announcement "Ostorozhno, dveri zakryvautsya, sleduyuschaya ostanovka (for example) Smolenskaya". This means "Careful, the doors are closing. The next stop is Smolenskaya". You should be able to understand the station names. In case a station has transfers to two or more other lines, stay calm and try to find the information board indicating the needed station. If it doesn't work, ask someone for assistance.
Many stations have two or more exits leading onto different streets. The exit signs list nearby streets, places of interest, department stores, etc. It helps to find in advance whether you have to get off at the first or last metro car to get to your destination. When meeting someone inside the metro, make sure you are very clear about where exactly you will meet. Some stations are very big and can be very crowded, which can make finding someone a difficult task.
Light Metro
Since 2004, Muscovites are able to enjoy new means of city transportation - the light metro (monorail). The first line is in Butovo and can be accessed from metro Bulvar Dmitriya Donskogo. The second line is in northern Moscow and runs between metros VDNKh and Timiryazevskaya. The tracks are an elevated structure with an average height of 7.5 m (25 ft). Each train can hold about 300 passengers. The average speed is 40 km (25 mi) per hour.
BUSES, TROLLEYBUSES, AND TRAMS
In view of the fact that metro stations outside the city centre are far apart in comparison to other cities - up to 4 km (2.5 mi) - an extensive bus network radiates from each station to the surrounding residential zones. Also, Moscow has a several bus terminals for long-range and intercity passenger buses, with a daily turnover of about 25000 passengers serving about 40% of long-range bus routes in Moscow.
Moscow has an extensive tram system, which first opened in 1899. Its daily usage by Muscovites is low (approximately 5%), although, it still remains vital in some districts, especially, in the centre for those who need to get to the nearby metro station. Increasingly tram-lines are the victims of road-widening schemes, and the tram-system's coverage is steadily decreasing. Buses and trolleybuses run from about 06:00 to 01:00, trams from about 05:30 to 01:00.
Public Transportation Ticket Options
One ticket covers one-way transportation on only one bus, trolleybus or tram (regardless the distance). If you transfer to another bus, trolleybus or tram, a new ticket will be required. Tickets for public transportation can be purchased from kiosks on the street. They are typically grey in colour and have a big sign saying "Proezdnyue Bilety" meaning "Public Transportation Tickets". These kiosks can be found outside many metro stations.
Bus, trolleybus, and tram tickets cost 24 Rbs for 1 ticket; 48 for 2 tickets, 90 for 5 tickets; 180 for 10 tickets, 369 Rbs for 20 tickets, 700 Rbs for 60 tickets (as of June 2010). The more tickets you buy, the cheaper the individual ticket gets. If you plan on frequently using public transportation, you may want to purchase a so-called "yediny" which costs 2140 Rbs. This pass is valid for one month and can be used for up to 70 rides on the metro and unlimited tram, bus, and trolleybus rides.
Another option is to purchase a so-called TAT or "proyezdnoi". The letters TAT stand for Tram, Autobus (bus), and Trolleybus. A TAT costs 830 Rbs (as of June 2010). As TAT tickets are not valid for the metro, you will have to purchase metro tickets separately.
You are strongly encouraged to obtain your bus/tram/trolley tickets before you travel. However, you can obtain a ticket on-board, in return for some practiced tutting and grumbling. If you buy a ticket directly from the tram, bus, or trolleybus driver, it will cost you 28 Rbs (as of June 2010). The drivers only sell the tickets during scheduled stops, and you should try to have the exact change on hand.
To enter the tram, bus or trolleybus you have to use a turnstile entrance within the vehicle, located past the driver's seat. All buses, trolleybuses and trams required you to enter through the front door and exit through the back door.
Microbuses
Hundreds of routes in Moscow are served by microbuses (small passenger vans). In Russian these are called "marshrutnoye taxi" or "marshrutka" for short. Their only similarity to a taxi is that they can - in theory - be hailed at the roadside without having to be at a stop, and they can drop you off anywhere along their (fixed) route that the driver considers safe. The routes normally start outside metro stations, and the drivers will stop anywhere along their route at passenger's requests. These small buses often go to places where there is no metro, such as many micro-neighbourhoods on the outskirts of Moscow. They often run long after the metro has closed - but with no guarantees, as the drivers are free agents, and can pack up and go home if it is a quiet evening with few clients.
While these small buses often are a quicker alternative to regular buses, their drivers are often overworked and/or drive recklessly. Accidents involving microbuses are frequent. Pricing on board is entirely up to the companies offering the route - usually they are posted on the buses' windows, along with information on the route and the micro bus number. A very large number of marshrutkas are offering a "private" alternative to specific public bus or tram route - and number themselves the same as the bus- or tram-number they are cloning. Since the public services are not-for-profit anyhow, they rarely complain about this competition - which relieves congestion on already-groaning main routes. Marshrutka offers travelers a slightly quicker journey, less crowding on board, and a guaranteed seat instead of having to stand (no standing is allowed in marshrutkas, for safety reasons). You have to tell (i.e. holler to) the driver in advance of where you'd like to stop.
COMMUTER AND LONG-DISTANCE TRAINS
Moscow has nine large train stations. All of them serve long-distance trains as well as short-distance commuter trains called "elektrichkas" that go to various suburbs of Moscow.
Commuter Trains ("Elektrichkas")
When visiting a location outside of Moscow, make sure you know which train station your elektrichka departs from. Not all elektrichkas travelling to the same destination will spot at all of the smaller stops in-between. Large boards on the main platform usually list the trains that are going to be leaving within the next couple of hours, and they normally mention whether the train will stop everywhere or not. If in doubt, ask! Suburban trains run relatively frequently and are usually on time.
If you plan on frequently travelling to the same destination by suburban train, you may want to purchase a timetable for that particular route; they are very cheap and available at the ticket counters. Generally there are more trains during morning and evening hours when people travel to and from work, and on summer weekends when entire families travel to and from their dachas. During summer the trains can get very crowded, and seating is limited. Note that most of these trains have no toilets; neither do the majority of the small station stops along the way.
Long-Distance Trains
Moscow's nine rail terminals (or vokzals) are:
Belorussky
Kazansky
Kievsky
Kursky
Leningradsky
Paveletsky
Rizhsky
Savyolovsky
Yaroslavsky
They are located close to the city centre, each, dealing with trains from different parts of Europe and Asia. Tickets in general are relatively cheap.
If you contemplate a long-distance or overnight train journey make sure you buy a first or a least second class ticket. Some short- and medium-distance trains till have a third class, called "obshchy vagon". This is a carriage without any compartments, and you might end up sleeping next, above or under a noisy party of travelers - or military recruits on their way home on leave.
There are also different categories of train: "skory" ("fast", an outdated title in most cases, as it is rarely the fastest option), "express", and "firmenny" ("flagship service" - the highest category). Tickets cost more on better trains. You cannot buy a ticket merely specifying the route you want - you have to specify the train and time you intend to use, and you will be given an assigned wagon and seat (or berth, if the train is a sleeper). All long-distance routes longer than 24 hours are "compulsory sleeper" services - there is no "couchette" option. Firmenny trains are not only faster - they have greatly increased levels of comfort on board, nicer restaurant-wagons, and clean toilets, usually modern "airline-type" toilets. A useful "rule of thumb" when choosing trains - if you only know their numbers - is that the lowest-numbered trains are usually the best ones (firmenny). Faced with a choice of train 9 or train 371 on the same route, you'd be best to pick train 9. Some routes (e.g. Moscow - St. Petersburg) have competing commercial train operators, offering you a wider choice of services and prices.
Toilet facilities on non-firmenny Russian trains are not great, and it is absolutely essential to bring your own toilet paper and small pre-packed moist towelettes (the kind you get on airplanes). You might also want to bring some food and drink, especially if you are going to on longer trip. Routes longer than 24 hours always have a dining car - these tend to be either "nice but prohibitively expensive" or "cheap but grim" - almost all of them are nowadays operated as franchised businesses. Russian standard cafe fare is usually the extent of the menu - vegetarians are likely to fare quite poorly, even on better trains.
When travelling overnight, make sure you lock your compartment door. Keep an eye on your belongings, especially your passport and your wallet - thefts on trains can and do occur.
Most expatriates prefer not to use trains for long-distance travel; it is much easier and faster to fly. Overnight train rides to St. Petersburg, however, are a great experience, especially if you travel on one of the luxury trains (there is a choice of 5-6 premium-end train operators).
TAXIS
Apart from using public transportation, official and private taxis are the safest way to get around town. There are two different kinds of taxis in Russia, all of which are commonly referred to as "taxi": official and private taxis, and gypsy cabs.
Official and Private Taxis
Taxis come in various shapes and colours. The main feature of an official taxi is the presence of a meter, together with an official taxi sign either on the roof and/or on the doors. Official taxi drivers are supposed to switch on their meter when they pick you up and should charge you according to a "per km" rate (with a certain minimum charge), but many prefer not to do so. You may, therefore, have to agree on the fare before getting in. The same applies to gypsy cab drivers.
Note that in contrast to many countries, you cannot just get into an official taxi in Moscow and expect the driver to take you where you want to go. He may not be interested in taking you, particularly if you are going somewhere far from the city center.
Official taxis can be difficult to catch on the street - there aren't that many. If you expect that you will need a taxi, order one ahead of time. Private taxis will normally only pick up passengers who have ordered a car by phone or over Internet. Many of these cars also have taxi sign, but they usually do not have a meter.
Private taxi companies usually have a fixed charge - usually per 20 minutes. The taxi company should inform you of the charge when you order a car. Unless your company has a contact with a particular taxi company, you must pay a driver in cash. Few companies accept credit cards. If you need an official receipt, ask whether one can be provided before placing you order - not all companies provide this.
Gypsy Cabs
In Russia, the difference between hailing a cab (taxi) and simply hitchhiking is vague. Generally,
wherever you are, at any time of day or night, you can get a "cab" in a matter of minutes or seconds by holding out your hand. Normally, you tell the driver where you are going and negotiate an amount, with you naming the first price. For many locations, giving the closest metro station is the best. Keep in mind though that very few drivers speak English. "Chastniki" (gypsy cab drivers) drive their own cars that do not have any taxi signs on them.
Taxi Rules
To flag down a taxi or a gypsy cab, stand on the curb of the street and hold out your hand.
When a car stops, make sure that there are no other passengers in it.
Tell the driver where you want to go (e.g. name the street and the closest metro station). You will then be asked how much you are willing to pay for the trip.
If the driver is happy with your offer, he will say "Sadites" or "Poyekhali" (meaning "Sit down" or "Let's go").
Gypsy cab drivers often don't need instructions on how to get to your destination.
Few taxi drivers speak English or other foreign languages, so if your Russian is limited, ask someone to write your destination down for you in Russian and mark on a map so that you an show it to the driver.
Cars
There are over 3 million cars in the city on a daily basis. Recent years have seen a significant growth in the number of cars, which has lead to traffic jams and unavailability of parking space. The MKAD (Moscow Circular Car Road), along with the Third Transport Ring and the future Fourth Transport Ring is one of only three freeways that run within Moscow city limits. However, as one can easily observe from a map of Moscow area, there are several other roadway systems that form concentric circles around the city. You might want to rent a car to explore Moscow as a driver. Try one of the following car rental companies.
RIVER TRANSPORT
Moscow has two passenger riverboat terminals (South River Terminal and North River Terminal or Rechnoi Vokzal), serving regular ship routes and cruises along Moskva and Oka Rivers. Due to winter ice, the rivers are navigable from early April to mid-October for passenger transport, and for cargo - a little longer. Cruise ships, connecting Moscow with St. Petersburg, Astrakhan, Rostov-on-Don and other cities of the Volga region depart from the North River Terminal (Severny Rechnoi Vokzal). From the South River Terminal ships depart to Ryazan & Konstantinovo, on the Oka River to Nizhny Novgorod; ships for the Volga River leave from Severny Rechnoi Vokzal. Additionally the suburban ships "Raketa", "Moskva" serve Severny Rechnoi Vokzal to the recreation area of the reservoirs of the Moskva Canal, and on one-hour excursions on the Khimki Reservoir. |
|
|
|
|
| 22. | The Moscow Expat Site :: The virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians, Moscow, Russia
|
Every day new on The Moscow Expat Site:
Culture Picks
Moscow's cultural scene is famously enormous and varied - but where to start? Our arts-savvy editorial team trawl what's on offer, to bring you our selection of Culture Picks for your leisure time.
Parks & Estates
If you'e feeling jaded by the grey grim concrete of your favourite haunts, Moscow is the perfect place to commune with nature without leaving the reaches of the Moscow Metro. The Moscow Expat Site has lined-up the complete listing of parks, former royal and aristocratic estates and other green spaces for your leisure-time hours, from black-tie outdoor classical concerts through to nudist beaches for those who like to get their kit off.
Moscow Phone Directory
Got your finger on the butten? Now you can, using the Moscow Expat Site Phone Directory - a unique listing of expat-friendly services and organizations that will be of maximum use and benefit to you. All the numbers are updated for accuracy, and many offer English-speaking services. Do more and find more in Moscow, with the Phone Directory!
Expat.ru is on Telegram!
Put the info, listings and links, parks and picks in your pocket! Expatsite on Tele packs all the opportunities, secrets, tips, vacancies in a channel-chat you should not be without!
Vacancies
The best people will always be in demand, so if you are seeking new challenges in your career or new outlets for your professional skills, let your mouse wander over to our Vacancies section, to find job openings posted and updated daily on The Moscow Expat Site. Vacancy of the day: A British School in the centre of Moscow is looking for a Chemistry, Physics and Mathematics IGCSE and IA-level teachers for 2024-2026. Successful candidates will have students getting B to A* in the subject in the past years, have solid classroom management skills and be dedicated to students’ progress. Part time as well as full time contracts may be considered. We offer visa support, medical insurance, meals, paid holidays, a competitive salary and work with a great team. |
|
|
|
|
| 23. | The Origin of Romanovy Dynasty (17th Century)::The History of Moscow::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Tired of civil war and anarchy, Moscow leading citizens gathered to elect a new tsar. In 1613, a 16-year old Mikhail Romanov, grandnephew of Ivan the Terrible's first wife Anastasia, was named hereditary tsar. Romanovy dynasty was to rule for more than 300 years up until the October Bolshevik revolution in 1917.
Mikhail Romanov (1613-1645) ruled together with his father, Moscow patriarch Filaret. They made considerable efforts to help the country to rise from the ruins. Mikhail also founded the tradition of state loans from other countries, the tradition of which Russia still can't get rid of. During his reign the amount of foreigners working for Tsar of Russia increased. So-called German Village (Sloboda) appeared in Moscow suburbs; later it became the favourite place of Peter the Great.
Mikhail's heir, Alexey the Quiet (1645-1676) made further steps in modernizing Russia, carried out the codification of the law, although it was exactly during his reign that serfdom, actual slavery, was legalized. In 1654 the Ukraine joined Russia extending influence of the Moscow state to the South. The most important event of Alexey's reign was the schism in the Church between the reformers, led by Patriarch Nikon, and the conservative Old Believers. Difference of opinion concerned mostly ritual details but the schism echoed in following centuries splitting the country into two camps always at enmity. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 25. | Restaurant Reviews :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Restaurant Reviews
Planning to dine out? Visit the Expat Site Restaurant Guide
for a listing of restaurants and menus in English and Russian.
Every two weeks the Moscow Expat Site presents yet another Moscow eatery for your consideration.
If you'd like to suggest a restaurant for review - or even review a restaurant yourself - click here and we'll consider your suggestion. |
|
|
|
|
| 26. | Relocation Guide :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Allied Pickfords Moscow - Our Services
• Door-to-Door International Moves
• Export & Import of Artwork & Antiques
• Export & Import of Motor Vehicles
• Export & Import of Pets
• Comprehensive Insurance Cover
• Local Residential Moves
• Office Relocations
• Storage of Personal Belongings & Furniture
• Full Range of Western Packing Materials
• Free Surveys, Quotations and Moving Advice
• Full Relocation Services in Association with Delight Realty, including Home Search, School Search, Moscow Orientation Programs, Pre-Arrival Support, and Relocation Guide. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 28. | The History of Moscow::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
The History of Moscow
The first reference to Moscow dates back to 1147 when Yuri Dolgoruky called upon the Prince of Novgorod-Seversky: "come to me, brother, to Moscow". Nine years later, in 1147, Prince Yuri Dolgorukov of Rostov ordered the construction of a wooden wall - which was to be rebuilt multiple times - to surround the emerging city. The city replaced Tver and became the capital of Vladimir-Suzdal during the reign of Ivan I. In 1480, Ivan III won a great victory against the Tatars and made Moscow the capital of the new Russian Empire that soon included all Russia and Siberia. Despite destruction by fires and Mongol and Tatar invasions, Moscow expanded until it became the national capital in the 16th century - when Ivan IV, Prince of Moscow, took the title "tsar". Peter the Great moved the capital to St.-Petersburg in 1712, and a consequent period of decline followed in Moscow. The city was burnt down again in 1812 during the war with Napoleon's France but was rebuilt and expanded rapidly as an industrial and communications center. After the 1917 Revolution Moscow again became the national capital in 1918 and has continued to grow in both size and influence, particularly since the end of WW2, to become the country's leading industrial, cultural and political center.
Ancient Times and Rise of Moscow (5th-15th Centuries)
Ivan the Terrible and the Times of Troubles (16th-17th Centuries) The Origin of Romanovy Dynasty (17th Century)
Reign of Peter the Great (Late 17th-18th Centuries)
Palace Revolutions and Catherine the Great (18th Century) Russia in the 19th Century
October Revolution (1917)
Soviet Union (1920-50s)
From Thaw to Perestroika (1950-90s)
Present Times |
|
|
|
|
| 29. | Environmental Assessments
|
7. Our laboratories
All the laboratories that we work with are accredited and state-approved.
Chemical analyses of air, soil, water, building materials, furniture and foodstuffs are carried out at the analytical centre of the chemistry faculty at Moscow State University.
Bacteriological analyses of air, water, soil and samples from various surfaces are carried out in the Gamaleya research institute.
The measurement of noise and vibration levels are carried out by the analytical centre of the physics faculty at Moscow State University.
The equipment used to measure electromagnetic fields and radiation levels is certified and state-approved. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 31. | Ask your Visa and Travel advisor
|
Are you going to travel to Russia, or do you plan to go abroad? Do you need to register your visa, or want to work officially and get a work permit? Or maybe you have other travel inquires and do not know how to fulfill your plans?
Please address your questions to your online Visa and Travel advisor Andrew’s Travel House. We really like the idea of helping people!
Just a brief company history, so you can rely on our services even more. The result of a successful merger between Andrew's Consulting and Travel House, Andrews Travel House is one of the oldest and largest corporate travel management companies in Russia, being active in this field since 1994. Andrews Travel House offers a complete travel service including flight booking, accommodation and visa services for foreigners wishing to travel within Russia, and for Russians looking to travel abroad.
In addition to providing one-stop corporate travel services, Andrews Travel House offers incentive programs, training seminars and special leisure packages for corporate clients and their staff, as well as high class FIT services for individual travelers via partner agencies.
For more information on any of our services contact Andrews Travel House
in Moscow: +7 (095) 916-9898, in St.Petersburg: +7 (812) 325-9400,
or in London: +44 (0) 20 77272838. E-mail: moscow@ath.ru
Web: www.ath.ru, www.russianvisa.ru |
|
|
|
|
| 32. | Russia in the 19th Century::The History of Moscow::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
In 1812 Napoleon army invaded Russia. Russia had already taken part in the war against Napoleon but suffered defeats against France, such as the Battle of Austerlitz (1805), and signed the humiliating Treaty of Tilsit in 1807. This time everything was different. This critical situation united Russian people and helped them to find powers to expel Frenchmen out of the country. The weather was also on the Russian side as Napoleon had underestimated severe climate in Russia and, left without supplies, hundreds of thousands French soldiers froze to death during their winter campaign. In order to save the country and not to let Napoleon enjoy triumphal entry to the ancient capital, the great Russian commander Mikhail Kutuzov decided to sacrifice Moscow. Deserting the city, Russian troops set Moscow on fire; as a result two thirds of the wooden city were destroyed. Left without food, which they hoped to find in Moscow, French soldiers were forced to abandon the city and start their terrible retreat.
Later Moscow's architectural look was completely changed; a brand new architectural plan was introduced by Osip Bove, the chief architect of Moscow reconstruction after 1812. Rebuilding the historical centre of the city, Bove introduced extremely patriotic Empire Style, mostly presented in noble mansions.
The Napoleonic wars were a turning point in the history of the Russian Empire, as many soldiers returned from Europe "infected" with liberal ideas. Moscow became a fertile environment for the seeds of growing political discontent, which resulted in so-called "Decembrists Rebellion". The Decembrists strove for the freedom of the serfs, constitutional monarchy and other civil rights. But this small group of liberal noblemen couldn?t change the situation; instead they provoked a period of reaction and stagnation during the reign of "the Iron Tsar", Nikolay I (1825-1855).
Finally the Big day for Russian peasants came: 1861 is the year of the Emancipation of the serfs. Slavery in Russia was officially over and some other liberal reforms by tsar Alexander II (1855-1881) opened the way for capitalism in Russia. Anyhow, former serfs were too poor to buy their own land and were forced to go to Moscow and other big cities searching for a job, as it was the time of rapid advances in industrialization. They worked at factories 14-16 hours a day, while their families were starving at home. Their miserable existence was one of the reasons why the Bolshevik's revolution was accepted so easily by the working classes. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 34. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Hamovniki::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Hamovniki Area
A large number of the buildings were constructed during the Stalin epoch; therefore, the architecture is quite specific, surviving the buildings of "a new era" (Soviet period architecture). The area was a suburban land of Moscow, and up until the 17th century, this place was considered inconvenient and dangerous for settlement due to the proximity to the Crimean ford - a Tatar raid route near Moscow.
In the late 17th century, this green picturesque area drew a lot of attention, which was followed by the rise of suburban estates with regular parks, ponds and buildings belonging to such eminent families as Dolgoruky Volkonskiy, Galitzin, Trubetskoy, Obolensky, Kropotkin, to mention but a few. Until the late 19th century, the area was famous for its meadows and gardens, owned by Count V. Orlov. The erection of modern plots on Frunzenskaya embankment and Komsomolsky prospect began only after the revolution in the late 1920s. First there were a few 4 to 5 storey houses for the workers of the silk factory. Then there began an intensive development of the area - the scope of work had tremendous character. Frunzenskaya embankment was erected in granite and combined piers for river trams. A lot of Stalin style architecture buildings, such as the Ministry of Defense were built in this period. Most of the buildings in the Hamovniki area are of the business-class, and actually the area is one of the most rapidly developing in Moscow.
Frunzenskaya Embankment
Stretching along the Moscow River, this neighbourhood is close to the city center and features spacious old courtyards and clean air. The green parks of southern Moscow are located right across the river: Gorky Park runs into ancient Neskuchny Sad with its picturesque summerhouses dating back to the late 18th century. Riverboats busily glide up and down the river during summer months.
The infrastructure of the Frunzenskaya area is entertainment-oriented. There are lots of restaurants, cafes, bars, cinemas and MDM entertainment center. Large supermarkets are available on Komsomolsky prospekt. Residential buildings in this neighbourhood mainly date back to Stalin's times. Apartments typically have high ceilings and large windows, with some offering great views onto Frunzenskaya embankment. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 36. | Reign of Peter the Great (Late 17th-18th Centuries)::The History of Moscow::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Peter the Great
Peter the Great was probably the most discussed, most controversial and most extraordinary Russian Tsar. Determined to bring Russia back on her feet and to make her a modern European state, Peter the Great wouldn't stop at nothing, thus making Russia's way to progress rather painful.
As a child he had seen relatives murdered in Kremlin during the Streltsy rebellion (strelets - member of privileged military corps in the 17th century Russia). This may have affected his character developing his predisposition to fits of rage and a pathological distrust for Moscow. 16 years later Peter got the chance for revenge on the Streltsys, when he executed over a thousand of them after another rebellion. This was a perfect demonstration of how he used to deal with his enemies.
Hatred for patriarchal Moscow and desire to change stagnant way of living in Russia forced Peter the Great to carry out many crucial reforms. In order to get familiar with modern European technologies in shipbuilding and other fields, he became the first tsar ever to go abroad with the aim of studying. After this educational trip Peter got reforms going: he built Russian navy, reformed the army, restructured administrative system, supported the development of Russian industry and trade. He was also a very successful commander, defeating the Swedes, who had been a threat to Russia for more than a century, and the Turks, giving Russia free access to the Black and Caspian Sea. All this allowed to say that Peter the Great "hacked a window to Europe" for Russia.
Being an admirer of Western life, Peter the Great insisted on Western style clothing for his courtiers, literally shaved boyars' beards, which reminded him of so much hated old Russia. His reforms split Russian society into Slavophiles and Westerners; this division lasted for centuries. Peter's final step in fighting the spirit of old Russia was the removal of the capital from Moscow to recently built pompous St.Petersburg, a city standing on the swamps and bones of dead builders. For the next 200 years Moscow existed in St.Petersburg's shadow being Russia's second city. |
|
|
|
|
| 37. | Dating Agency
|
Matchmaking service
If you need our professional matchmaking advice feel free to visit our Moscow office. We will arrange a date with a lady for you at the time and place convenient for you.
|
|
|
|
|
| 38. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Moscow Neighbourhoods
The city is divided into ten administrative okrugs (regions) and 123 districts. Nine of the ten administrative regions, except the City of Zelenograd, are located within Moscow's main boundaries. All administrative okrugs and districts have their own emblem and flags, some districts also have elected head officials.
The ten administrative okrugs of Moscow are: 1) City of Zelenograd; 2) Northern okrug; 3) North-Eastern okrug; 4) North-Western okrug; 5) Central okrug; 6) Eastern okrug; 7) Southern okrug; 8) South-Eastern okrug; 9) South-Western okrug 10) Western okrug.
In addition to the districts, there are Territorial Units with Special Status, or territories. These usually include areas with small or no permanent populations, such as the case with the All-Russia Exhibition Centre, the Botanical Garden, large parks, and industrial zones. There are no ethnic-specific regions in Moscow. And although districts are not designated by income, as with most cities, those areas that are closer to the city centre, metro stations or green zones are considered more prestigious. Moscow does not yet have any exclusively residential or commercial neighbourhoods with most central districts providing a mix of residential and office buildings along with retail space.
Arbat
Boulevard Ring
Hamovniki
Kitai-Gorod
Krasnaya Presnya
Lubyanka Patriarshiye Prudy
Polyanka-Yakimanka
Prechistenka-Ostozhenka-Volkhonka
Pushkinskaya Square
The Kremlin Area
Tverskaya
Zamoskvorechiye |
|
|
|
|
| 39. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Moscow Neighbourhoods
The city is divided into ten administrative okrugs (regions) and 123 districts. Nine of the ten administrative regions, except the City of Zelenograd, are located within Moscow's main boundaries. All administrative okrugs and districts have their own emblem and flags, some districts also have elected head officials.
The ten administrative okrugs of Moscow are: 1) City of Zelenograd; 2) Northern okrug; 3) North-Eastern okrug; 4) North-Western okrug; 5) Central okrug; 6) Eastern okrug; 7) Southern okrug; 8) South-Eastern okrug; 9) South-Western okrug 10) Western okrug.
In addition to the districts, there are Territorial Units with Special Status, or territories. These usually include areas with small or no permanent populations, such as the case with the All-Russia Exhibition Centre, the Botanical Garden, large parks, and industrial zones. There are no ethnic-specific regions in Moscow. And although districts are not designated by income, as with most cities, those areas that are closer to the city centre, metro stations or green zones are considered more prestigious. Moscow does not yet have any exclusively residential or commercial neighborhoods with most central districts providing a mix of residential and office buildings along with retail space.
Arbat
Boulevard Ring
Hamovniki
Kitai-Gorod
Krasnaya Presnya
Lubyanka
Patriarshiye Prudy Polyanka-Yakimanka
Prechistenka-Ostozhenka
Pushkinskaya Square
The Kremlin Area
Tverskaya
Volkhonka
Zamoskvorechiye |
|
|
|
|
| 40. | Taxes :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Every foreigner coming to work in Russia has numerous points of interest regarding the Russian social security and personal income tax consequences that may arise for him and his employer as a result of his assignment. Here is a brief overview of many of the requirements in Russian tax law that need to be considered with regard to an individual assigned to work in Russia. However, the Russian tax system is fluid, requirements apparent in the law may not be what happens in practice, and there is wide scope for different interpretations by different chief accountants, tax inspectorates and tax inspectors. There is therefore, a real need to avoid assumptions and to check carefully before determining the likely tax consequences of any particular event.
Tax Residency, Rates and Scope
The starting point for analyzing an individual's Russian tax position will tend to be his tax residency status. This affects both the scope of income subject to tax, and the tax rates to be applied in Russia. However, there is a problem in this area, in that practice is not consistent with the Law. Under the Law, a tax resident is a person who is physically present in Russia for more than 182 days during a consecutive twelve month period. There is provision for absences caused by situations such as medical illness to continue to be counted as presence in Russia. However, the tax authorities view residency as determined with reference to presence in a calendar year (which was, interestingly, the old rule before the Law was changed).
Therefore, based on the tax authorities' current interpretation of the residency rule, if an individual spends at least 183 days in Russia in a calendar year, then he is tax resident and is taxable in Russia on most types of his worldwide income at the resident tax rate of 13%. Otherwise, he is a non-resident taxable in Russia at the 30% non-resident tax rate on his Russian source income.
Russian source income is generally defined as income arising from assets in Russia, or earned in Russia, irrespective of where the income is paid. There is also some debate as to the definition of a day of presence in Russia. The conservative position would be that days of arrival do not count in determining total presence in Russia, whilst days of departure do. However, a number of letters from the Ministry of Finance indicate that a taxpayer is viewed as present in Russia on both days of arrival and departure.
Taxable Income
The general philosophy of the Russian tax system is that all income is subject to tax, but there are nuances beyond this. To create the general picture on what may be included in the taxable income for Russian tax purposes, the most common income items subject to Russian income tax are set out below.
Employment Income
Employment income consists of compensation, whether received in cash or in kind, including, but not limited to, salary, bonuses and various expatriate allowances and benefits. Tax residents are entitled to certain types of deductions from income. Sometimes, reimbursements, which might be viewed as business expenses in other jurisdictions can be viewed as taxable income in Russia. The only material tax exempt type of income is employer provided insurance, but the details of this need to be checked dependent upon the specifics of each employer's programs.
TAXATION OF EMPLOYER-PROVIDED STOCK
Options and Equity Programs
Based on general tax principles, at the time of exercise of an employer-provided stock option, an employee recognizes income equal to the excess of the fair market value of the stock over the exercise price. Stock Grants are generally viewed as received for tax purposes at the point that all restrictions are lifted, and the value at that date is used to determine income. However, there are no specific rules for the taxation of, or sourcing of the income from, equity programs, so great care needs to be taken with the specifics of each particular plan.
Self-Employment and Business Income
The income of individuals engaged in self-employment activities is subject to income tax. Tax is levied on the individual's annual self-employment income, which consists of gross income, less documented expenses associated with the performance of the work. Under certain circumstances, a simplified tax regime may apply.
Investment Income
Dividends received by residents are subject to tax at a rate of 9%. Russian dividends received by non-residents are subject to tax at a rate of 15%. At the time of writing, consideration was being given to removing the 9% rate and reverting to 13% for residents.
Interest income on bank deposits held in the Russian Federation that exceeds the Central Bank's refinancing rate increased by 5 percentage points on rouble deposits (or for foreign-currency deposits, interest that exceeds 9%), is subject to tax at a penalty rate of 35%. Most other bank interest is exempt from tax.
Capital Gains
Income from the disposal of assets is included in regular income and from this it is possible for tax residents to deduct costs related to the asset's acquisition and sale. Special, but similar, rules apply to income from the disposal of securities. A separate capital gains tax does not apply.
Withholding
Income received by foreign nationals working in Russia may be subject to tax withholding at source if delivered by a company registered in Russia. Under current tax law, all Russian companies, and foreign organizations operating in Russia through a representative office or a branch must act as a tax withholding agent, which usually means they must withhold the personal income tax at source.
The tax authorities view tax residency as ultimately being determined for a calendar year. However, for withholding, the tax agent must review the presence of the recipient of the income over the preceding twelve months. This potentially means that all newly arrived individuals are considered non-residents for Russian tax withholding purposes until they reach 183 days in Russia in the twelve months prior to a particular payment; thus, the non-resident tax rate of 30% applies to their income for tax withholding purposes. Individuals who arrived in Russia at the end of a previous year may be subject to 13% tax rate in the next year upon confirmation of their exceeding the 183-day period. However, future intention to stay in Russia for 183 days or more in the following twelve month period, even if he or she has a signed contract for this period with a company operating in Russia, does not allow an employer to use the 13% resident rate starting from the day of arrival of this individual. This rate can be applied only after the individual has actually spent 183 days in Russia in a 12-month period. At the time of each payroll payment during the year, the employer must verify the residency status of each employee and withhold income tax at the appropriate rate in accordance with the number of days the employee has spent in Russia in the 12-month period preceding the date of payment.
If Russian income tax is withheld from the expatriates' entire remuneration, then he may not be required to file a tax return in Russia, unless he has received other income subject to tax in Russia, but not subject to tax withholding.
Double Tax Relief and Tax Treaties
Russia has an extensive (and continuously expanding and revising) network of double tax treaties with many jurisdictions around the world.
Under these treaties taxpayers may be either exempt income from the payment of Russian tax or foreign tax paid may be credited against Russian tax payable, but the foreign tax credit may not exceed the Russian tax payable on the same income. To obtain an exemption or a tax credit, the taxpayer must submit a Russian tax return actively claiming the benefit, and present a certificate of residency from a country with which the Russian Federation has a double tax treaty, and a document certified by the tax authority of the foreign country proving that the income was received and the foreign tax was paid.
In practice, obtaining such reliefs can be problematical, and care needs to be taken in optimising the chances of success for any such claim.
DEDUCTIONS
The Russian Tax Code foresees standard, social, professional and property-related tax deductions available for tax residents.
Social Tax Deductions
These deductions include annual deductions for certain charitable contributions (up to 25% of income), education expenses for the taxpayers and their children (up to 50,000 Rbs per child per taxpayer), medical expenses for the taxpayers and expenses related to contributions to licensed Russian non-state pension funds.
Property-Related Tax Deductions
The most visible tax deductions are related to property. Income received from the sale of real property, which was in the ownership of a taxpayer for three years is effectively exempt from taxation in Russia, though this must be actively claimed on a tax return. If, however, this minimum holding period is not met, the gains derived from the sale of property are taxable in Russia as regular income (gross income less documented expenses). The ability to deduct costs or obtain special tax benefits tends to apply only to tax residents.
The taxpayer may alternatively elect to pay tax on the proceeds less a fixed annual deduction. In the case of real estate held fewer than three years, the maximum fixed deduction is 1 million roubles; in the case of other property (except securities) held fewer than three years, the maximum fixed deduction is 125,000 Rbs (250,000 Rbs starting January 2010). Income derived from the sale of securities is subject to special rules.
Income from the sale of a car which was owned by an individual for more than three years is no longer taxable from 2010.
Also, each tax resident individual claim a property-related tax deduction for the expenses incurred to construct or purchase certain real estate in Russia on a "once in a lifetime" basis. The deduction is limited to 2 million roubles. Mortgage and certain other interest payment are deductible in addition to the 2 million roubles.
Starting January 2010, tax residents are entitled to additional property-related tax deductions in the amount of interest on loans used for the acquisition of a plot of land, where residential real estate is located/constructed; in the amount of interest on the refinancing of loans used for the new construction/acquisition of a house; and in the amount of expenses incurred in connection with the preparation of design for residential real estate.
Tax Filing and Payment Procedures
The tax year in Russia is the calendar year. Tax returns must be filed by both tax residents and non-residents, who have at least one source of income subject to tax in Russia on which income tax has not been withheld by a tax agent. The final tax return must be submitted by 30 April of the year following the tax period with no extension available. The final tax must be paid no later than 15 July of the following year.
If a foreign individual plans to cease to engage in activities that generate income taxable in Russia and then leave the country, the individual must submit a departure declaration no later than one month before the individual leaves Russia. Tax due on the basis of the departure tax declaration must be paid no later than 15 days after the declaration is filed with the tax authorities.
Whilst there are no specific restrictions on amending tax returns, such amendments will inevitably attract attention, particularly, if the level of income is reduced, and the general course of prudence is to ensure that a return is correct before it is filed.
Currently, individual taxpayers pay taxes on a self-assessment basis. The Russian tax authorities are not obliged to issue official tax assessments. However, sometimes they do issue tax notifications (effectively the same thing), and very rarely, there may be some discrepancies between tax assessments made by the individual and the tax authorities.
Paying tax can be quite complex, and is best done directly from the personal Russian rouble bank account of the taxpayer directly to the accounts of the tax authorities. Importantly, companies cannot safely settle the personal tax liabilities of their expatriates, which presents logistical issues for those on net pay or tax protected or equalised compensation programs. There are numerous different accounts and other reference numbers and codes, and the taxpayer needs to make sure these are correctly included on the payment order. Payments often go missing within the tax authorities' system, and it is worthwhile checking that they have been properly credited to the taxpayer's account a few weeks after the payment is made.
Sanctions for Non-Compliance
There are certain fines established for non-compliance with the tax rules. Failure to submit tax returns after the filing deadline would result in a fine of 5% of the tax due under the return for each full or partial month of delay for the initial 180 days of delay and accelerating to 10% of tax due per full or partial month thereafter with no cap. Fines of 20% or 40% can also be imposed for under-declaration of income dependent upon whether this was accidental.
Late payment interest is charged for each day of late payment of the tax and is calculated as the amount of underpayment multiplied by 1/300 of the current Central Bank refinancing rate (currently 1/300 * 10%) per day.
Social Security Contributions
Under the current Russian law, all Russian companies or foreign organizations operating in Russia through a representative office or a branch, which make payments to individuals (including foreign individuals) under the employment or civil-law agreements are obliged to pay Unified Social Tax (UST) from the income delivered to the employees. The tax is paid entirely by the employer and there is no concept of matching employee contributions in Russia.
Due to the recent changes in the Russian law, starting January 2010, the UST will be replaced by social security contributions to the Russian various statutory funds, including the Pension, Medical and Social Insurance Fund. However, the remuneration paid under employment agreements and civil-law contracts to foreign citizens temporarily located in Russia (most expatriates on assignments in Russia who do not hold temporary or permanent residency permits) will not be subject to social contributions, since such foreign citizens are not entitled to the relevant benefits financed by the social funds.
In addition to the UST (or social security contributions starting January 2010), an employer must pay separate contributions to the Social Insurance Fund on behalf of all its employees, including foreign employees, insuring against accidents at work and professional diseases (the rate depends on the class of the professional risk for specific employer and vary from 0.2% to 8.5%). For most office employees the rate is 0.2% and this will continue for foreign nationals under the new regime.
COMMON PITFALLS
In current Russian tax system, there are various pitfalls, which the unwary may encounter. Some of the most common of these are set out below in what is a far from comprehensive list.
The 183 Day Myth
There is common understanding that no tax would apply if an individual stays in Russia for fewer than 183 days. This may or may not be true. Non-residents are still taxed in Russia on their Russian source income. If all income subject to tax in Russia delivered through the local payroll, then tax would be withheld at source with no further need to submit tax return. If, however, the individual is paid by an offshore employer for his work in Russia, then it may be necessary to submit a Russian tax return.
No tax would apply if the individual's assignment and pay structure satisfies certain provisions of the relevant Double Tax Treaty (if this is the case). However, even in this situation, tax relief technically needs to be applied for by means of tax return submission. In order to claim a relief, an individual has to go through the long procedure of submission of various documents without any guarantee of the positive result.
Russia Only Has 13% Taxes Myth
This is not true. The tax rate for residents is 13%, but it is 30% for tax non-residents. Given that the definition of a tax resident is a matter for technical debate, great care is needed to ensure that the 13% rate will apply, particularly, for expatriates in the year of their arrival or departure. Whether a person arrives in the second half or the year or leaves in the first half of the year, achieving the necessary presence in Russia to be a tax resident can be logistically impossible. Many expatriates are also surprised to find that, even where they qualify for the 13% rate for a particular year, they do not receive the benefit of this immediately through payroll, at least in the early part of their assignment, but, instead, have to wait until they have been physically present in Russia for over 183 days. They then receive the refund of the "over-withheld" 17%, but the cash flow disadvantage can be an unpleasant surprise.
No Tax Deductions for Non-Residents
The current Tax Code does not foresee tax deductions for tax non-residents. These are available for tax resident individuals only. In this connection, tax non-residents cannot benefit from the most visible deductions related to the purchase or sale of a property in Russia. This is a particularly unpleasant surprise for persons disposing of property after they have left Russia, especially, where they have been waiting to qualify for the three year exemption before selling. There is a significant difference between paying no tax at all, and paying 30% on the full proceeds of sale without even a deduction for what one originally paid for the property.
Investment Income is not Tax Exempt
Offshore income received by Russian tax residents can be relieved from Russian tax in case the individual is either a tax resident in another jurisdiction or has paid tax there and a relevant Double Tax Treaty is in place. Depending on the situation, Russia might have the right to only tax income earned in Russia, or may give a credit for foreign taxes. However, offshore income is not just "tax free" as of right, and care needs to be taken to manage liabilities in this regard.
Equity Income May be Taxable in Russia, but No-One Really Knows How
There is great uncertainty as regards the taxation of various different types of employee equity plans. Such plans are usually operated by the employing group, but often by a (non-Russian) entity (or employee benefit trust) other than the actual employer. It is very rare that such programs are managed locally with tax withholding through Russian payroll. This places the requirement to determine tax treatment onto the individual, and he will have difficulty determining how much income he has received, when he receives it and to what duties this income relates. It is hard to determine the "right" answer to these questions as whatever arguments could be used could be countered through different logic. In reality, many taxpayers have used the arguments that suit them best, which would tend to analyses that suggest they have no receipt of income, or that the income has nothing to do with Russia, or that the level of that income is as low as possible. This has led to something of an urban myth that income from equity programs is exempt from Russian tax, but this can be a dangerous assumption. There is increasing transparency in Russia with regard to the allocation of the costs of corporate equity programs; hence, aggressive or even non-compliant tax filing positions that may have proved successful in the past are no longer safe.
How Will They Know?
In a self declared, self assessed tax system, where tax scrutiny tends to fall upon those who file tax returns rather than those who do not, some individuals may well ask the question of why they should file a return and what tools the tax authorities may have to find out about non-compliance if they do not.
There has been a general drift to improved compliance in recent years, particularly, amongst expatriates. This has been partly driven by corporate policy of good governance, but also because with its low tax rates, declaring income and paying tax in Russia has proven good tax planning in assisting with the avoidance of tax on that income in other jurisdictions. This does mean the tax authorities have been improving their knowledge, because they are seeing more. The quality of the record keeping at the tax authorities is also improving, and becoming more computerized (the authorities are asking for individual tax returns for 2009 to be submitted with an electronic copy, as well as the traditional paper forms), making data easier to find.
However, greater risks arise through the increased transparency of accounting and corporate recharging, where the costs of an expatriate's remuneration paid outside of Russia need to be made more explicit and clear at the level of the host Russian business so as to minimize the level of risk of that business being denied a corporate tax deduction. Whilst the specifics of tax cases are different, the general trend has been for corporate taxpayers to win in court, where the documentation for recharged costs is clear and open, but to lose where it is opaque and the costs of expatriates remain more obscure. Hence, an assumption by an expatriate that the authorities will not know about his offshore paid income is dangerous, as his employer may well be providing documentation that specifically evidences this.
Recent years have also seen a significant rise in the level of contact between the Russian tax authorities and other jurisdictions, with voluntary sharing of data about persons with tax affairs in both. Particular contact has been noted with France, Germany and Finland, with countries using the mutual co-operation provisions of tax treaties to help them identify potential tax evasion. This trend echoes a more general global pattern, and whilst Russia remains well behind many other jurisdictions in the sophistication of its tax control, it is improving quite rapidly. Non-compliance is increasingly risky, whilst the tax cost of actual compliance is low, even if the administration of it remains burdensome. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 46. | Palace Revolutions and Catherine the Great (18th Century)::The History of Moscow::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Palace Revolutions
From the death of Peter the Great to the beginning of Catherine the Great's reign, Moscow throne was occupied by six different monarchs who came to power after dirty palace intrigues and palace revolutions. Two of them - Ivan Antonovich and Peter III - were deposed by force and assassinated. This period was the time of political instability, when the country was mostly ruled by women and minors (so-called "The Petticoat Period"). They all thought little of country's prosperity, paying attention to balls, luxury and fun; although that was good for Russian architecture: many palaces were built and some interesting architectural tendencies were introduced. That concerned mostly St.Petersburg as monarchs preferred to live in this Europeanized city. Only Elizabeth the First (1741-1761), daughter of Peter the Great, decided to live in Moscow periodically, presenting the former capital with a flurry of new buildings. This fun-loving empress is also the one to thank for the foundation of Moscow State University in 1755, the first University in Russia. She was guided by Russia's 18th-century Renaissance man Mikhail Lomonosov, the poet and the scientist in one.
Catherine the Great
In 1762 the wife of Peter III, a German princess, planned a conspiracy, as a result of which her husband was dethroned and killed. Under the name of Catherine II she proved herself as an energetic and intelligent leader. She was one of the most educated monarchs of her time, art and literature lover, even Voltaire and Didro were among her correspondents. Catherine the Great was known to share views of the Enlightenment ideologists, but in fact she was an adherent of Absolutism, Russia under Catherine the Great became a perfect example of an absolute monarchy. Catherine aimed to continue the centralization of power using rough methods, she liquidated self-government in the Ukraine, suppressed many peasant rebellions (Pugachev's Rebellion for example), made territorial gains at the expense of Turkey and Poland. At the same time she carried out a progressive reform of education in Russia, reform of Russia's legal system and some other innovations. |
|
|
|
|
| 47. | Airports::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Domodedovo
Tel: 933-6666, arrivals and departures can also be checked online at www.domodedovo.ru Today, Domodedovo works with 80 partner airlines, including 30 Russian, 35 foreign and 15 air carriers from the CIS countries, which fly to 220 destinations in Russia and world-wide. Moscow Domodedovo Airport is easily accessible at any time of the day. The airport complex is connected with the capital by a modern speedway which enables our passengers to catch their flights on time using public transportation or taxi, as well as their personal vehicles. The airport offers a network of convenient parking areas. Moscow Domodedovo Airport operates an additional passenger terminal located in downtown Moscow, in the Paveletsky Railway Station building. The terminal is connected with the airport by a regular railway service - Aeroexpress.
HOW TO GET TO DOMODEDOVO
Aeroexpress
Paveletsky railway station has a city passenger terminal connected to Domodedovo airport by high-speed railway. The comfortable high-speed Aeroexpress train travels to and from Paveletsky-Moscow and Domodedovo Airport. Time of journey: 40-50 minutes. Fare: 300 Rbs (adult), 80 Rbs (children). Departure from Paveletsky railway station hourly from 06:00 untill 23:40. Departure from Domedovo hourly from 07:00 untill 00:40.
Commuter Train
This train goes from Moscow, Paveletsky station to Domodedovo airport and from the airport to Moscow, Paveletsky station, with all stops en route. Time of journey: 1 hour 10 minutes. Fare: 92 Rbs. Special rate tickets: 46 Rbs. Children: 22,9 Rbs.
Express Buses
Modern Scania, Man, Mercedes buses go non-stop to Domodedovo airport from Domodedovskaya underground station. Timetable: from 06:00 to 00:00. Time of journey: 25-30 minutes. Departure time: every 15 minutes. Fare: 80 Rbs. Children under 7 go free of charge. Luggage carriage is free of charge. Ticketing: one may acquire a bus ticket in the passenger terminal, near the 0 (zero) counter at the domestic arrivals area. Bus stops: 1) Domodedovo airport - at the airport landside area between the entrances 2 and 3; 2) Domodedovskaya metro station - get off the last carriage of the train (if you go from the city centre), turn right in the pedestrian subway. The bus stop is close to the subway exit.
Shuttles
Mini buses go from Domodedovskaya underground station to the airport round the clock. Timetable: from 06:00 to 00:00. Time of journey: 25-30 minutes. Departure time: every 15 minutes. Nighttime schedule (from 00:00 to 06:00): 00-00; 00-40; 01-20; 02-00; 02-40; 03-20; 04-00; 04-40; 05-20; 06-00. In case of non-observance of the departure time, call, 8-800-200-33-66 (24 hours a day).
Taxi
To get to the International Domodedovo Airport by taxi you need to use the Kashirskoye shosse - 22 km to the south from Moscow. Official taxi carriers for Domodedovo airport:
MV-Motors (Citroen, Doninvest-Condor, Hyundai Accent, Hyundai Sonata 5)
Gorodskoe taxi (City Taxi)(Peugeot 406, Peugeot 607, Peugeot 807, Peugeot Partner, Ford, Ford Mondeo. Ford Galaxy)
"Formula taxi" (Renault Logan).
By Car
The main road leading to the airport from Moscow is Kashirskoe shosse, which flows into the airport junction road (Domodedovo Airport road). Both paid and free parking lots are available at Domodedovo International Airport. At paid parking lots 15 minutes period from the moment of arrival is free of charge. Some airlines offer check-in for your flight directly at Paveletsky railway station: Sibir, Domodedovo Airlines, TransAero. For passengers flying British Airways, there are two counters for self-service check-in at the airport. If you are late for checking-in, proceed to the late passengers check-in counter. |
|
|
|
|
| 48. | Patriarshy Dom Tours :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Capital Tours is the first company in Russia organizing regular daily City Bus Tours, weekly Kolomenskoye Estate, Lubyanka and Gulag tour, Metro tour, Red Square and Kitai Gorod tour (including St.Basil's Cathedral). Regardless of the weather, we are always at your service. Capital Tours offers you a commentary by an English-speaking guide. Moscow All Around (The Moscow City Bus Tour): 7 days a week (even if it snows) Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 10:30, 13:30; Monday, Wednesday at 10:30 only. Adults: in the office 950 Rbs, on the bus 1000 Rbs, children: in the office 450 Rbs, on the bus 500 Rbs, Lubyanka and Gulag tour: every Thursday from 14:00 to 16:30. Adults: 1000 Rbs, children: 800 Rbs, Kolomenskoye Estate: every Thursday from 10:30 to 13:30. Adults: 1000 Rbs, children: 800 Rbs; Metro Tour: every Sunday from 11:00 to 13:00. Adults: 700 Rbs, children: 500 Rbs; Red Square and Kitai Gorod tour: every Sunday from 14:00 to 17:00. Adults: 1000 Rbs, children: 400 Rbs.
Address: Gostiny Dvor, Ilyinka ul., 4, vkhod 6, 7. Tel: 232-2442, Fax: 234-2717; capitaltours@col.ru.
At the Russian-American Cultural Center we offer unique group tours, led in each case by an expert in the field. We offer other services, including hotel reservations, special private tours tailored to individual interests, both in Moscow and St. Petersburg. We also offer group or private Russian language classes for all levels as well as interpreting and organizational support for business negotiations. You can also book plane and trane tickets with us.
In Russia:
Tel/Fax: (501/495) 795-0927
E-mail: alanskaya@co.ruIn the United States:
Tel/Fax: 1 650 6787076
E-mail: pdtours@yahoo.com
Web: www.toursinrussia.com
. |
|
|
|
|
| 49. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Krasnaya Presnya::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
In the 17th and 18th centuries, the area developed as a craftsmen's and trade center. Presnya became a large arts and craft shopping centre of the city and a favourite vacation spot for Muscovites. Now it is a very popular location where structures of federal and city value are located: the House of the Government of the Russian Federation, the World Trade Centre, the Moscow Zoo, the Cinema House, ITAR-TASS, Expo Centre. The construction of the large business centre "Moscow City" will cause an active development of this area, eventually turning it into a modern Manhattan. This area is not on the elite areas list despite the fact that one of the very first and well-known elite houses in Moscow - Agalarov House - was erected here. On the other hand, the affinity to Kutuzovsky prospect makes it very attractive to many people. Krasnaya Presnya has some very good, modern apartment buildings, especially on Zoologicheskaya street. Bolshaya and Malaya Gruzinskaya streets are also popular with expatriates, as is Novinsky boulevard.
Despite its revolutionary past (the first strikes that preceded the October Revolution began here), famous American millionaire Armand Hammer built Moscow's first modern skyscraper here in the 1970s. Today it is referred to as the International Trade Center and Crowne Plaza Hotel.
Bolshaya and Malaya Nikitskaya
Bolshaya Nikitskaya street is hard to stick to one Moscow area, as it stretches along from the very center and adjoins Barrikadnaya street in Krasnaya Presnya. Both Bolshaya ("Great") and Malaya ("Small") Nikitskaya streets take their names from the old Nikitsky Monastery founded here in the late 16th century. In the 17th and 18th centuries they were mostly inhabited by the aristocracy. Luckily, narrow and densely built Bolshaya Nikiskaya was not reconstructed in Soviet times and kept a lot of remarkable buildings.
At the beginning of Bolshaya Nikitskaya one can see the building of Zoological Museum of Moscow State University, constructed after Bykovsky's project especially for this unique collection of zoological rarities. The facade is decorated by zoological mouldings; the light and airy interiors designed by famous animalists design in the same style.
The next attractive building here is the Moscow Conservatory. Vasily Bazhenov designed it in the late 18th century for princess Catherine Dashkova; in I860 it was bought for the Moscow section of the Imperial Russian Music Society headed by outstanding musician Nikolay Rubinstein.
In 1954 a monument to Tchaikovsky, the famous Russian musician and one of the conservatory's founders, was put up in front of the building. In 1940 the Conservatory was named in his honour and since 1958 the Tchaikovsky International Competitions have been held here.
Povarskaya
In the 16th century the area to the south from Bolshaya Nikitskaya street was mostly inhabited by the royal cooks; no wonder that the word "povar" ("cook") became an origin of the street's name. The names of many neighbouring lanes are also connected with the kitchen: Stolovy ("Table"), Khlebny ("Bread"), Nozhovy ("Knife") and others.
In the 18th century Povarskaya was densely populated by Moscow nobles; till the revolution it was considered to be the most aristocratic street in the city. After the revolution luxury mansions of the nobles were either occupied by the State institutions or put at the disposal of foreign embassies.
The church of St. Simeon Stolpnik is situated right in the beginning of the street, at the corner of Novy Arbat and Povarskaya streets. Former parish church of Nikolay Gogol, it's the only 17th-century building on Novy Arbat not touched by the Soviet reconstruction.
Mindovsky's house on the corner of Povarskaya street and Skaryatinsky lane is considered to be one of the best examples of Russian Art Nouveau. Now this architectural masterpiece is occupied by the embassy of the New Zealand. A picturesque mansion with a colonnade on the facade in the end of the street formerly belonged to Sollogub family. But it's much more widely known to Muscovites as the "Rostov House", as Lev Tolstoy "settled" here the heroes of his world-famous novel "War and Peace". The imaginary story of the great writer somehow affected the real destiny of this building: since 1932 it houses the Union of Writers organization. |
|
|
|
|
| 50. | Moscow Neighbourhoods::Patriarshiye Prudy::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
The cultural and aristocratic center of Moscow is situated around Patriarshiye Prudy ("Patriarch's Ponds"). Currently, there is only one pond, surrounded by the garden. In the 17th century, it was a whole district called the Goat Marsh, which was part of the Patriarch's suburb. Here, somewhere in the vicinity, was the Patriarch Zhitnii yard. By order of the Patriarch, the Ponds were dug to "supply" fish for the patriarchal table. The choice of the location was ideal, because the ground was swampy and required drainage, and the settlement was one of the centers of the patriarchal economy. In the 17th century, Patriarchiye Prudy were kept clean, but over the years, they were abandoned and forgotten; only after the war of 1812 were the ponds cleaned. Nowadays, the best locations in this area are with a view over the pond. During the warm summer days, the park is filled with people promenading, children playing games and young people sitting and talking on the benches, while in the winter, the pond turns into an ice rink. The area hosts the best restaurants, main theaters and nightlife. This area is also legendary from the literary point of view: a lot of Russian writers (and their protagonists) lived here.
Moreover this is a very popular residential area. It allows for easy access to many central points of interest, including the Kremlin, Tverskaya street with all its stores and restaurants, the Bolshoi Theater, Moscow Conservatory, as well as various fitness and health clubs. The best apartments are located around the pond and along Spiridonovka street, Granatny lane, Bolshaya and Malaya Bronnaya streets, Trekhprudny and Kozikhinsky lanes.
Spiridonovka Street
Spiridonovka street took its name from the no longer existing St. Spiridony Church. The most interesting building here is No 17, one of the first Schechter's works - the Morozov's mansion, built in the late 19th century. Here Gothicism and Neo-Gothicism are mixed; later this specific mixture became the basis for Russian Art Nouveau. The first owner of the house, millionaire and patron of the arts Savva Morozov devoted his whole life (and the huge part of his reaches) to the Moscow Arts Theatre, but the conflict with the theatre management and other nuisances became the cause of his suicide. Currently the Morozov's mansion is the Reception House of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. |
|
|
|
|
| 51. | Soviet Union (1920-50s)::The History of Moscow::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
In December 1922 the formation of the Union of Soviet Socialistic Republics was proclaimed; Moscow became capital of the new state. Within a very short time the Bolsheviks had shown that they cared about democracy and civil rights as much as the tsar, ignoring the existing Constitution, establishing the dictatorship of the proletariat (in fact the dictatorship of the Communist Party), and setting up one of the most frightening and blood-thirsty secret services in the world history, the CheKa (the ancestor of KGB).
The first person to govern the Soviet Union was Vladimir Lenin. Being a charismatic speaker, he managed to captivate millions of souls with his obsessive communistic ideas. For many decades Lenin was almost God to Russians; the entire nation went crazy: songs were written about Lenin, thousands of monuments to him were erected all over the country and icons were replaced with Lenin's portraits.
After Lenin's death in 1924, Iosif Stalin took his position as General Secretary of the Communist party. A real paranoiac and sadist, Stalin gradually removed all his enemies and possible rivals. Most of his comrades-in-arms ended up in prisons, labour camps or were simply executed. Several waves of purges brought millions of innocent people to labour camps, where most of them died of inhuman treatment and starvation.
Meanwhile in the countryside the collectivisation of agriculture began. Peasants were obliged to give up their land and property to collective farms and work for them for a small salary or even for no salary. People were forced to give up all corn that they had; that caused famine in 1931-32, when more than 10 million starved to death.
Stalin's regime encouraged denunciation and spying. People were afraid to speak in their own houses, always waiting for a neighbour to overhear something and tell the CheKa. Secret agents could come in the night and take anyone with them without explanation; people arrested by the CheKa were mourned as murdered victims.
The Great Patriotic War (1941-1945)
Stalin put too much into his dirty business dismissing more than three quarters of army officers. The Great Dictator got the chance to regret it when Germany invaded the Soviet Union in 1941. In 1939 a secret Non-Aggression Pact was signed by Germany and the Soviet Union therefore the Soviets were caught by surprise by the summer invasion. While the country tried to summon up its powers, the Germans advanced rapidly and by December of 1941 they were already near Moscow. But Hitler, just as Napoleon 130 years before, underestimated the harshness of Moscow winter and outstanding courage of Russian soldiers. After a famous battle, partly ruined, Moscow escaped destruction. So did Leningrad (former St.Petersburg) but it paid a horrible price: the city was besieged for more than 900 days; almost no food supplies were left and people were dying of hunger in the streets. More than two thirds of city's population never saw the end of the siege.
In 1943 after the battle of Stalingrad it was already clear that the victory of the Soviet Union was only a matter of time. In 1945 victorious Soviet Army occupied Berlin and on May 8 Germany signed capitulation. The war of 1941-1945, which caused death of more than 20 million Russian people, is known in the history of Russia as the Great Patriotic War.
But while the whole world celebrated the victory over the Nazis, Stalin got the wheel of repressions going again, as he wanted to get rid of those who had seen what it was like in so called capitalistic world. The terror lasted until his death in 1953.
These new times brought new major changes to Moscow architecture: in 1935 the General plan of the Moscow reconstruction was accepted. Its aim was to change the appearance of Moscow according to the new political doctrine. At the same time tens of churches and cathedrals were being destroyed; new times brought new religion: the belief in Soviet "bright future". |
|
|
|
|
| 52. | Relocation Guide :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
The Pre-Move Survey
In order to obtain a detailed written quotation for your move, your moving company will offer you to carry out a pre-move survey of your personal belongings at your residence. This survey should be carried out by a qualified moving consultant; it should be free of charge and should not put you under any kind of obligation toward the moving company.
The purposes of the pre-move survey are to:
Provide your moving company with a good idea as to the volume and nature of your shipment (personal belongings, artwork and antiques, motor vehicles, pets, etc.).
Confirm the final destination (city and country) for your shipment and supply you with information on your destination country, including information on the import customs regulations.
Inform you of the various available shipping methods for your relocation, including approximate transit times to your destination country. Based on your personal requirements, moving schedule and budget, your international moving consultant will help you determine the best shipping method or combination of shipping methods.
Discuss your moving schedule, including your prospective packing dates, your personal departure date from Russia / your origin country), your personal arrival date in your destination country / Russia, and the required delivery dates.
Tell you about the customs formalities that are necessary to clear your shipment through customs at both ends of your move.
Explain the Ministry of Culture procedure for the export of artwork and antiques to you (if your move originates in Russia).
Answer any questions you might have regarding packing & packing materials, including special packing and/or wooden crating for fragile or high-value items.
Explain the insurance cover offered by your moving company.
Discuss any special requirements and answer any additional questions you might have concerning your upcoming move.
All of Allied Pickfords Moscow's moving consultants are completely bilingual (English / Russian), with some also speaking German and French. In fact, all of our moving consultants around the world speak English - in addition to the language of their native country.
Please contact the Allied Pickfords Moscow anytime at (+7 095) 796-93-25, or send an e-mail to relocations@alliedpickfords.ru to set up a date and time for a free survey of your personal belongings. If you are moving to Russia from another country, please also contact our Moscow. We will then put you in touch with a qualified moving consultant from our office in your origin country. |
|
|
|
|
| 53. | Outings::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Outings
Hit the Beach!
When it gets hot, there is nothing like sun, sand - and whatever inland surf you can muster. Here are some leading Moscow beaches.
Swimming Pools
If you don't want to trek to the beach, take a dip in one of a number of swimming pools. Most pools require a medical certificate, which you can get right at the pool for an extra charge, or from your regular doctor or neighbourhood clinic. Here are some Moscow swimming pools.
River Cruises
There is no better way to sit back and enjoy the sights on a hot summer day than a two hour cruise on one of the boats that ply the Moscow River. The boats feature an upper level open-air deck and a closed deck below. Most have a bar that offers liquor, soft drinks and some snacks.
You can embark and disembark from any pier, but we recommend starting from the Kievsky Bridge and riding all the way to the end point at Novospassky Monastery. From there you can either pay another fare (you have to get off and go to the cashier's booth) or catch a cab or bus. Piers are located at: Kievsky Bridge, Vorobyovy Gory, Frunzenskaya Embankment, Park Kultury, Estrada Theatre, Rossia Hotel, Novospassky Bridge. The boats run from 11:00 until 21:00 daily, sometimes a bit later on the weekends, at half-hour intervals. The ticket price is 400 Rbs for adults, 150 Rbs for children, children up to 6 year old - free of charge.
There are also cruises of one to seven hours departing from both the Northern Riverboat Terminal (Severny Rechnoi Vokzal) and the Southern Riverboat Terminal. A seven-hour cruise from the Northern Riverboat Terminal includes a three-hour stop at a beach area. The ticket prices range from 250 to 800 Rbs for adults, and from 100 to 300 Rbs for children. The boats run from 06:15 until 21:30 daily. You can find detailed information here.
Summer Verandas
"Grab the day!" as the ancient philosophers said... why sit indoors looking at those same four walls when you could enjoy a drink or a meal outdoors in the glorious sunshine? The Moscow Expat Site's coolest insiders share their top tips for al fresco grazing in a specially updated listing of Summer Terraces where you can relax outdoors.
City Parks and Estates
Moscow has many large and pleasant parks. Some are plain parks, others have ponds or beaches and yet others contain old palaces, estates or other places of interest. Most parks are open daily from sunrise to sunset. Note that most neighbourhoods also have smaller local parks, some of which have playgrounds.
Hiking and Running
Virtually every Sunday morning, come snow, sleet or heat, a group of Russians, expats, and short-term visitors gathers for a 10 to 15-km hike. For the latest schedule visit the Community Calendar. For runners there is the Hash House Harriers, who like to describe themselves as drinkers with a running problem. They meet just by the entrance of the Tchaikovsky Concert Hall (last doors from the metro entrance, under the overhang, near the Mayakovskaya metro exit on Tverskaya ul.) to run or walk in a local park for 40 minutes to an hour at a gentle pace. Again, you can visit the Community Calendar for the latest schedule.
Sports Opportunities
If you are a sport fan, you can choose one of the following venues:
Aero Clubs
Dive Centers
Golf Clubs
Horse Riding Clubs
Paintball Clubs
Squash Courts
Tennis Courts
Water Parks
Yachting & Windsurfing Clubs
Outside Moscow
Summer is perfect for exploring neighbourhoods, the more especially as Moscow Region offers so many beautiful places waiting to be discovered. You have so many options to spend a fabulous weekend far away from the noise, dust and everyday problem. Commuter trains (elektrichkas) are at your services covering all possible destinations outside Moscow. You can just blindly point to a map and experience the fun of an extremely unprepared and unplanned trip. Or you can plan it all in advance, booking a room in one of many country hotels, located from 5 to 50 km away from Moscow. Driving is another option. You can drive your own car, or hire one from the car rental company. |
|
|
|
|
| 54. | Charities::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Charities
Private charities were outlawed during the 70 years of communist power. When the Soviet Union began to collapse, and the social safety net unravelled, Russians found themselves scrambling to build an NGO culture from scratch. Expats have been involved in a big way - and many have specifically come to Russia to help out. Others who are already here see overwhelming needs every day that they cannot ignore. Here's how to get involved.
If language is a barrier, volunteer or fund raise through any of the myriad of community or religious organizations.
Russian speakers can go directly to a Russian charity or help an expat group find new projects to support.
Beware if you are moved to write checks at the site of photos of needy children staring helplessly from the front of a slick brochure. Sometimes the most effective Russian charities can't afford Madison Avenue and some of those who can may not be what they seem.
Some do's and don'ts
Do realize that the Russian tax law doesn't grant NGOs the kinds of benefits they enjoy in the West. Thus, instead of creating a project to fill a need, charities target needs that the law allows them to address.
Don't donate money without thoroughly checking out the recipient organization. NGOs that balk at transparency may not be what they seem.
Don't assume that because an NGO is based abroad it is more effective than a home grown Russian NGO. Often the opposite is true.
Do network.
Moscow is a home to a large number of charitable organizations that are always happy to welcome new volunteers. If you want to volunteer or if you have furniture, clothing, shoes, bedding, toys, kitchenware, appliances or items you no longer need, please contact one of the charitable organizations listed below. Many are always looking for in-kind donations for the projects they support. Some may be able to pick up your donations from your home or office.
AIDS Foundation East-West (AFEW)
AIDS Foundation East-West (AFEW) is a Dutch, non-governmental, public health organization working in Eastern Europe and Central Asia (EECA) to reduce the impact of HIV among vulnerable populations. AFEW has developed a system of replication, which adapts successful international HIV programmes, based on best practices to the local conditions in other countries across the region. Currently, AFEW carries out programmes in Belarus, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Russian Federation, Tajikistan, Ukraine and Uzbekistan.
Tel: 250-6377
E-mail: info@afew.org
Web: www.afew.org
AMUR - Working to Save Russian
Tigers and Leopards from Extinction
AMUR is an Anglo-Russian charity promoting the conservation of Amur (Siberian) tigers and leopards and was officially launched at the British Embassy by the former British Ambassador, Sir Roderic Lyne, in May 2001. The Amur tigers and leopards are extremely endangered with only about 450 adult tigers and 35 adult leopards living in the wild in the Russian Far East. AMUR works to raise money and awareness for conservation projects in the Russian Far East, where these two extremely rare big cats live. Amongst other things, AMUR is working to create new protected reserves, promote eco-tourism, carry out education projects and help with much needed research. Volunteers can get involved by joining the AMUR Committee, holding fund raising events (all money raised will go directly to projects in the field), helping organize events, making a donation, etc.
Address: Myasnitskaya ul., 35a, office 46
Metro: Chistie Prudy
Tel: 768-8065
E-mail: e.newman@amur.org.uk
Web: www.amur.org.uk
Action for Russia's Children (ARC)
Action for Russia's Children (ARC) is an all-volunteer charity dedicated to helping children - particularly the under-privileged, disabled and homeless - and supports Russian initiatives that offer an alternative to institutional care. ARC works with day centers, therapy centers, specialist schools, a foster family project and toy library to establish alternatives to the internat system and to support parents who have made the difficult decision to keep a special-needs child at home. ARC's volunteers give support to ten projects helping children and young people in Moscow who have all kinds of special needs: physically and mentally disabled children, orphans, the homeless, and those of mixed race who suffer from discrimination.
E-mail: actionarc@yahoo.co.uk
Web: www.actionarc.com
Charities Aid Foundation (CAF)
Charities Aid Foundation is a non-commercial organisation committed to efficient giving. It works to raise the profile of giving, lobby for tax breaks and provide an increasingly broad suite of services to charities and their supporters. The Russian office of the Foundation - CAF Russia - has been a successful charity in Russia since 1993. In close collaboration with the leading Russian and international companies and foundations, it realises around 40 programmes a year. Since the beginning of its work, CAF Russia realised over 300 initiatives aimed at the resolution of a considerable range of social problems, from aiding organisations for the disabled to developing local foundations in 26 regions of the country. Over 44 million dollars went to such ends. The total value of the projects supported by CAF exceeds 120 million dollars.
Address: Tverskaya ul., 24/2, str. 1, podiezd 3, floor 5
Metro: Pushkinskaya
Tel: 792-5929
E-mail: cafrussia@cafrussia.ru
Web: www.cafrussia.ru
Diema's Dream
Diema's Dream was founded in 1998 as a result of Mary Dudley's charitable work with orphanages in Moscow while she first lived here from 1994 to 1997. It was during this time that she met Diema, a charming little boy who had hydrocephalus and was paralyzed from the waist down. When Diema turned 5, he was sent to an Internat for children from the ages of 5 to 18. The founder had lost Diema in the system. Through her search to find Diema, Mary met Leonid Mogilevsky. Diema was one of the lucky children to have been saved by Mogilevsky from one of the worst internats in Moscow. Today Diema's Dream is a non-profit, all volunteer US and UK foundation providing financial medical and educational support for physically and mentally disabled children in Russia and the former Soviet Union states. The larger goal is to support changes in society and government in order to create social and medical support programs that will allow parents to raise their children at home instead of living in institutions. Diema's Dream has sponsored educational seminars for the staff and teachers of the Charity House Program.
Address: Borisovskiye Prudy ul., 16, korp. 4
Metro: Kashirskaya
Tel.: 340-0100
E-mail: info@ddfund.ru
Web: www.ddfund.ru
Downside Up
For decades Russian children with Down syndrome had no early intervention services, and their needs were ignored. In 1996 Downside Up, a Russian-British charity, began its daily free programs for Russian families that raise children with DS. Downside Up provides free educational and social services to several hundred Russian children with Down syndrome and their families. Volunteers are involved in charity fundraising events, such as an annual bike ride in Moscow and a Kilimanjaro Climb, and do volunteer work with the children at the center.
Address: 3rd Parkovaya ul., 14a
Metro: Izmailovskaya
Tel: 8 499 367-1000
E-mail: downskteup@downsideup.org
Web: www.downsideup.org
Greenpeace
Address: Leningradsky prosp., 26, korp. 1
Metro: Belorusskaya
Tel: 988-7460
E-mail: info@greenpeace.ru
Web: www.greenpeace.ru
Guide Dogs - Dogs as Assistants to Disabled People
Guide Dogs is an independent non-profit charity called "Dogs as Assistants to Disabled People" that provides a free humanitarian service to disabled Russians. The volunteer trainers train both guide dogs for the blind and help dogs for physically or mentally disabled people. Those who receive dogs get them for free. New dog owners also receive free instruction to learn how to work with their four-legged companions. The guide dog services are provided free of charge, but since Guide Dogs Dogs receives no governmental assistance the center relies on donations to continue its important work.
Tel: 8 499 145-2261
E-mail: guidedogs@guidedogs.ru
Web: www.guidedogs.ru
Hope Worldwide
Hope Worldwide supports orphans, disabled children and pensioners, veterans of World War II and the elderly. Volunteers are always welcome.
Address: Botanicheskaya ul., 33, korp. 5
Metro: Petrovsko-Razumovskaya
Tel: 977-7375
E-mail: info@hopeww.ru
Web: www.hopeww.ru
International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW)
IFAW's mission is to improve the welfare of wild and domestic animals throughout the world by reducing commercial exploitation of animals, protecting wildlife habitats and assisting animals in distress. IFAW seeks to motivate the public to prevent cruelty to animals and to promote animal welfare and conservation policies that advance the wellbeing of both animals and people. Today IFAW's programs include a campaign to save the critically endangered Western population of Gray whales at Sakhalin Island, the IFAW Mobile veterinary clinic that spays/neuters and treats stray dogs and cats, the IFAW Orphan Bear Cubs Project that rehabilitates bear cubs orphaned after the cruel winter den hunt.
Address: Smolenskaya pl., 3, Smolensky Passage
Metro: Smolenskaya
Tel: 937-8386
E-mail: info@ifaw.org
Web: www.ifaw.ru
International Women's Club (IWC) Charities
The International Women's Club of Moscow supports many different charitable projects with the assistance of a group of dedicated volunteers. These projects fall into different areas that include baby houses and internats (orphanages), children, the elderly, families and individuals, foster families, handicapped and hospitals, soup kitchens, street children, the homeless, women's issues and a donations office. Volunteers are always needed and very welcome! The IWC Charities Group holds regular general meetings at which you can find out more about the work of the group and the many projects the IWC supports.
E-mail: iwcmoscow@yahoo.com
Web: www.iwcmoscow.ru
Kidsave International
Kidsave believes that every child needs a family. Consistent with its mission to end the harmful institutionalization of children, Kidsave has been working since 1999 to help move orphaned and abandoned children into permanent families. Volunteers are always welcome to help.
E-mail: Tatiana@kidsave.org
Web: www.kidsave.org
Kitezh Children's Community
Kitezh was established to place children from Russian orphanages into loving adoptive families living in an idyllic village some 300 km southwest of Moscow in the Kaluga Region. This therapeutic community is recognized nationally and internationally for the outstanding work that it does in healing traumatized children. Ten years ago, Kitezh was virgin forest. Slowly, a village of log cabin homes and a school came into being. The school is fully recognized by the government, and there are classes in computing, English, art and icon painting, personal development, as well as Russian, math, history and geography. The children learn traditional Russian dances and perform musicals such as "My Fair Lady" and "Jesus Christ Superstar" in the original English. Some of the first children to come to Kitezh from orphanages ten years ago are now university students - an outstanding testament to the loving success of this community.
Tel: 8 916 9751603
E-mail: kitezh@kaluga.ru
Web: www.kitezh.org
Maria's Children
The Maria's Children studio was established in 1993 when director Maria Yeliseeva began her volunteer work with orphans. Kids from different orphanages in Moscow attend the art studio to team art and life skills. They create murals, paintings and other artwork that has been exhibited in Russia and abroad, and their teachers practice art therapy and musical therapy with children challenged by disabilities. The studio also has a psychologist who works with the children. Maria's Children provides an atmosphere where children learn trust, love and friendship. They learn to paint and in doing so, are empowered to change their lives. Every year, Maria's Children sells adorable postcards and wall calendars. Volunteers who are interested in doing artwork with children are always welcome.
Address: Dmitrovsky per., 2/10
Metro: Okhotny Ryad
Tel: 692-4870
E-mail: mariaschildren@yandex.ru
Web: www.mariaschildren.ru
METIS Inter-Racial Children's Charity Fund
The mission of METIS is to improve the lives of mixed-race children through humanitarian assistance, education and training programs, and other avenues of social advocacy and support. It is the only organization of its kind in Russia. Current METIS programs and projects include computer classes; English and French language classes; donations of food packages to needy families; financial support to individual families; monthly ethnic gatherings for children and families excursions to theatres, museums, and other cultural venues; distribution of a semi-annual newsletter; holiday celebrations for children and families; donations of clothing, toys, and household items, summer camp sponsorship etc. Volunteers are always needed for the above programs and projects.
Tel: 343-0813
E-mail: metis2001@mail.ru
Web: www.fundmetis.narod.ru
MiraMed Independent Living and Social Adaptation Center (MILSAC)
Since 1991 MiraMed has been assisting displaced and orphaned children in Russia, helping them make the transition from state-run institutions to society. The organization's social protection programs for Russian orphans include humanitarian aid, education and training at MiraMed Centers for Social Adaptation in Moscow, St. Petersburg and Uglich that help orphans re-enter society with the skills they need to live a safe and meaningful life. MiraMed's short and long term volunteer programs give adults from around the world the opportunity to live and work in Russia and make a personal difference. MiraMed founded the Angel Coalition, the first and now the largest, most successful anti-trafficking coalition in Russia whose members provide public education and training and support for the rescue, return and rehabilitation of trafficking survivors. There are opportunities to work with pregnant single young mothers, single moms with young children, teenagers, and young adults, or with a professional staff of teachers and psychologists.
Address: Kotelnicheskaya nab., 1/15, korp. B, office 52
Metro: Kitai-Gorod
Tel: 915-4614
E-mail: erics@miramed.org
Web: www.miramedinstitute.org
Moscow Animals
Homeless dogs and cats are a big problem in Moscow. There are still no Western-style SPCAs in Moscow. The aims of Moscow Animals are to provide in-kind and financial support to a number of private and semi-private dog and cat shelters in Moscow and to assist the shelters and private individuals that rescue animals off the street in finding new homes for their furry friends. Volunteering at animal shelters in Moscow is possible, though operating conditions will usually be nowhere near those in Western countries. If you would like to adopt a dog or cat, please visit the dog and cat pages on the Moscow Animal website.
Tel: 763-0012
E-mail: info@moscowanimals.org
Web: www.moscowanimals.org
Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy (MPC)
The Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy funds and operates soup kitchens that serve hot lunches to hundreds of Moscow's elderly each weekday in a number of locations around Moscow. In addition to running soup kitchens, the MPC distributes groceries to African refugees and underprivileged foreign students and prepares food packages for families from METIS, an inter-racial children's charity fund. Volunteers are always welcome.
Tel: 8 499 143-5748
E-mail: mpchaplaincy@gmail.com
Web: www.mpcrussia.org
Nastenka Foundation
Nastenka Foundation is based at the Institute of Pediatric Oncology and helps children suffering from cancer by providing their families with medical, financial and psychological assistance. Nastenka tries to help by providing the families with financial assistance; raising and providing funds for the purchase of medications, prostheses and medical equipment; providing funds for the treatment of individual children; providing the children with additional nutrition; providing the children with clothing and toys as well as educational supplies; arranging parties and entertainment at the hospital and excursions for the long-term resident parents; and involving volunteers in all aspects of the Foundation's work. Nastenka is always looking for volunteers to assist with fundraising, distribution of donations and raising awareness about their cause.
Tel: 585-4101
E-mail: mail@nastenka.ru
Web: www.nastenka.ru
"NAN" - No to Alcoholism and Drugs
Founded in 1987 by a group of psychiatrists who specialize in drug related problems, NAN now has more than 40 different chapters across Russia. The fund concentrates on developing, testing and approving various spiritually oriented methods of preventing alcoholism and drug-use, venereal diseases and AIDS. It works with abandoned "street" children. NAN has been a leader in NGO development in Russia and played an active role in preparing various federal and Moscow city laws regulating charities. NAN is a recipient of the Euro-American Award for Democracy and a Civil Society.
Address: Shvernika ul., 10a
Metro: Akademicheskaya
Tel: 8 499 126-3475
E-Mail: nan@nan.ru
Web: www.nan.ru
Operation Smile
Operation Smile is a leading international charitable medical organization which provides free, high quality, reconstructive facial surgery to children around the world born with cleft lip, cleft palate, and other facial deformities. Founded in the United States in 1982 by plastic surgeon Or. William Magee and his wife, Operation Smile has since operated on almost 80,000 children in 22 mission countries free of charge. Operation Smile donates medical equipment and supplies to in-country host hospitals. All Operation Smile doctors are volunteers, donating their time and services. Operation Smile has been recognized by UN Secretary General Kofi Annan as the largest organization of volunteers in the world. Nominated by former US Ambassador to Russia Thomas Pickering, Operation Smile was awarded the first Conrad N. Hilton Humanitarian Prize in 1996.
Address: Smolenskaya pl., 3, Smolensky Passage, office 708
Metro: Smolenskaya
Tel. 933-8377
E-mail: irina.tulyakova@operationsmile.org
Web: www.operationsmile.org.ru
Russian Children's Welfare Association (RCWS)
The Russian Children's Welfare Society is dedicated to assisting disadvantaged Russian Children improve their lives. Our organization was formed in 1926 to assist Russian children and families who emigrated to the West. Today the RCWS focuses on helping to improve the lives of children at risk in Russia. During the 2007-2008, the Society disbursed approximately 2 million dollars in direct aid to children in Russia by supporting orphanages, homeless shelters, hospitals, rehabilitation centers for disabled children and schools. More than 20,000 children have been helped by the Society, and over 600 grants have been made to children's organizations.
Address: Bakuninskaya ul., 81/55, str. 1
Metro: Elektrozavodskaya
Tel: 8 499 261-1868
E-mail: rcwsmoscow@gmail.com
Web: www.rcws.org
Russian Orphan Opportunity Fund (ROOF)
ROOF is a pioneer in providing high-quality education for children and young adults from Russian orphanages with programs aiming to eradicate traditional prejudices against this group by integrating them into society and enabling them to take care of themselves. ROOF needs volunteers to help with fundraising, translating materials, raising awareness about the problems faced by orphans in Russia, etc.
Address: Voznesensky per., 8
Metro: Pushkinskaya
Tel: 629-5100
E-mail: roof@roofnet.org
Web: www.roofnet.org
Taganka Children's Fund (TCF)
Taganka Children's Fund supports over 1,200 of the most disadvantaged children and single parents in Moscow to prevent children from entering institutionalized care or ending up alone on the city streets. Taganka Children's Fund is always looking for volunteers to assist with fundraising, PR grant writing and development projects. Much of the work can be done in English.
Address: Bolshoi Rogozhsky per., 10, korp. 2
Metro: Marksistskaya
Tel: 911-7449
E-mail: tcf@comtv.ru
Web: www.charity-tcf.ru
Therapeutic Riding Society
Therapeutic riding is a physical and a social activity that helps cure or ease many diseases and problems and that brings together the healthy and the handicapped. Equestrian therapy lessons include creative games and sports and contribute to a sense of well-being and self-reliance. The society is a non-profit charitable organization that aims at giving comprehensive help to disabled people. The program of rehabilitation and social adaptation provides riding sessions; rehabilitation exercises; lessons in clay modelling; embroidery; drawing; singing; pottery; ceramics; woodcarving; as well as playing sessions, lessons in basic horse grooming, stable keeping and horse tending. Members of the club regularly take part in national and international riding competitions. As the assistance the society provides to the disabled is free of charge, it relies on donations and grants from national and international organizations and private individuals.
Tel: 781-4668
E-mail: rboomkki@mail.ru
Web: www.hippotherapy.ru
United Way Moscow
United Way Moscow is a community-based, non-profit organization dedicated to improving people's lives in Moscow and eventually in Russia. The United Way marshals volunteer monetary resources to make a positive impact on the lives of children, teens and seniors. It also lobbies for government policies in Moscow and throughout Russia and promotes the concepts of philanthropic giving in Russia.
Address: Nizhnaya ul., 14, str. 1
Metro: Belorusskaya
Tel: 780-9717
E-mail: info@unitedway.ru
Web: www.unitedway.ru
World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Russia
Founded in 1961, WWF is one of the biggest non-governmental conservation organizations in the world. WWF's mission is to stop the accelerating degradation of Earth's natural environment and to help its human inhabitants live in greater harmony with nature. Established in Russia in 1994, the main programs that WWF Russia is working on include forests, climate change, rare species, nature protected areas, ecological legislation development, education, and toxins. The WWF needs volunteer help in their office.
Address: Nikoloyamskaya ul., 19, str. 3
Metro: Taganskaya
Tel: 727-0939
E-mail: russia@wwf.ru
Web: www.wwf.ru
Although we believe all of the charities listed above to be reputable organisations, please bear in mind that a listing does not guarantee the bona fides of the organisation concerned. |
|
|
|
|
| 55. | Tourism::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Tourism
Moscow has a growing number of first-class international hotels and several smaller hostels that offer quality accommodation at more reasonable price. A hotel can be called a "gostinitsa" or an "otel" in Russian. If you intend to stay at a hotel with your pet, make sure that this is possible - not all hotels in Moscow allow pets.
TYPES OF HOTELS
The present Moscow hotel market in general can be divided into 5 groups:
luxury 4-5-star hotels;
tourist-class hotels;
small private 3-4-star hotels;
former ex-Soviet and present hotels of the state departments;
country hotels.
As for 4-5-star hotels, the majority of them are owned or managed by the western hospitality companies (such are "Marriott", "Sheraton", and "Kempinski"). But though some of them in fact belong to the city and are administered by purely Russian management, it doesn't mean a low quality of service.
Hotels of the second category in most cases still carry some features of Soviet time. It is reflected in general management, as well as in the level of service and equipment. Anyway central hotels of this category have no problems with visitors. This determines their price policy: $100-350 per day for a room.
The service standards in 4-5-star hotels have much in common with the western ones. The compulsory set of the facilities includes: parking, safe, room service, satellite TV, business centre (with internet access, copying, faxing, etc.), air conditioning, telephone, mini-bar, different stalls. Depending on the hotel you may be offered a fitness-centre, swimming pool, beauty salon, conference-halls, no-smoking rooms, concierge's services. Unfortunately most of the hotels, even expensive ones, have no conveniences for disabled people.
The prices in the majority of Moscow hotels are quoted in USD, but will be charged in roubles at the prevailing rate. Be careful: many hotels don't include 20% VAT into their prices. According to Russian laws all the payments are received in roubles. The rate of exchange in the hotel may be higher than one for which you've changed money.
Nearly all the hotels accept credit cards, but there are hotels and restaurants which for some reasons don't accept American Express cards. Travelling with children, you should check the amount of the additional payment, which may vary from 0 to 50% depending on the hotel and a child's age.
Movements of Personal Effects
An individual can temporarily bring goods weighing up to 50 kg and valued up to EUR 1500 duty-free into Russia. Individuals shall be charged 30% of the customs value of the imported goods exceeding EUR 1500, but not less than EUR 4.0 per kg in excess of the limit.
Travel Agencies
There are hundreds of travel agencies in Moscow: some specialize in ticket sales, others offer full tour and vacation packages, some specialize in tours to certain countries or continents, and yet others specialize in adventure and nature travel.
Car Rental
If you do not have your own car and feel like doing a bit of driving on your own after having settled in and having acquainted yourself with the Russian style of driving and traffic regulations, you may want to rent a car for a few days to explore Moscow and its surroundings on your own.
Maps
While you may come across a map with a bilingual street index, good English-language maps of Moscow are very difficult to find. In order to use maps you will have to know the Russian alphabet - otherwise you won't be able to look up streets in the index. You can purchase these maps at many bookstores, magazine and newspaper kiosks, and gas stations. The larger bookstores should also have maps for Moscow's suburbs and other cities in Russia.
Address in Moscow
While looking for a certain house in Moscow you should keep in mind the following things:
1. You need to know whether the house you are looking for is on the street (ulitsa), a lane (pereulok), an avenue (prospect), a boulevard (bulvar), an embankment (naberezhnaya).
2. Several streets in Moscow have numbers in front of them. For example, there is a 1st, a 2nd , 3rd and 5th Tverskaya-Yamskaya ulitsa.
3. You must also know whether a house is, for example, located on Bolshaya (big) Ordynka or Malaya (Small) Ordynka. There are many other examples of streets and lanes which exist twice - as a "big one" and a "small one".
4. A house (dom) can have several buildings (korpus or stroenie) to it. Usually the individual buildings are numbered (1, 2, 3, 4, etc.), but sometimes they may have letters such as A, B, V, G, D.
5. Also make sure you ask for the entrance number. (There can be up to 20 of them in one house).
6. Google Maps cover Moscow very well, and the Russian search-engine Yandex has a similarly good street-finding map service.
Tipping
If you were happy with the food and the service at a restaurant, a 5 to 10% tip is appropriate. Try to tip your waiter in cash; if you add the tip to your credit card bill, the waiter will most likely never see the money. (In practice the way that credit-card payments are processed in Russia doesn't permit you to add tips in the huge majority of restaurants anyhow). You may also want to give small tips to handymen and plumbers.
Taxi drivers are not usually tipped, but you may want to pay them some extra money if they help you to carry your bags. Hotel/restaurant coatroom attendants are not normally tipped, but as these are often elderly ladies or men, they may appreciate a small token of appreciation. You don't tip coatroom attendants in public buildings, theatres, etc. It's usual to tip guides and interpreters if you've been satisfied with their work - very often their agency will be taking a large part of the fee you've paid.
Language
Russian is the basic language spoken in Moscow and in Russia in general, but you may hear many other languages spoken on the streets as Moscow welcomes lots of immigrants from the former CIS republics. A basic course in Russian comes highly recommended as in most cases, signs, road names and practically everything you see in Russia will be written in Cyrillic, so getting a good grip of the alphabet is key.
Even if you don't learn Russian, being able to read the alphabet will make a quantum improvement in your ability to move around independently, and will quickly repay the time spent in real savings. Practice by writing-out familiar words (your name, address, your friends, etc) using the Russian alphabet. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 60. | Real Estate Primer::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Real Estate Primer
Rent
The majority of people who come to Moscow on a long-term employment contract are faced with the problem of finding a proper residence. You can opt for staying downtown and enjoying the entertainment, shopping and night life options the city has to offer. Families that come to Moscow with children would rather opt for staying in Moscow outskirts, the so-called cottage settlement, in order to provide safer ecological conditions for the children, sacrificing a considerable amount of time towards travelling to and from work.
Unlike many other larger cities, there is no real division between residential and business areas in Moscow yet. This means that wherever in the center you choose to settle, you will have easy access to shopping centers, supermarkets and cultural life. At the same time you will be able to enjoy the many smaller parks, quiet side streets and yards, and the historical charm of central Moscow.
In Russia, residential properties are categorized to the total number of rooms. Kitchen and bathrooms are not included in the room count (i.e. they are not counted as separate rooms). For example, a three-room apartment is an apartment with a living room and two other rooms (e.g. a bedroom and a study or two bedrooms), as well as kitchen and one (or more) bathrooms. Apartment size in Russia is indicated in square meters (m²). There are 10.7 square feet to one square meter.
In Russia, the concept of a ground floor is not common. Floor numbering usually starts from the very first floor, which may be residential or commercial. The first and the top are usually the least desirable, and rent should be cheaper that on the floor in-between.
UTILITIES
Electricity: The power supply is 220V AC, 50 Hz.
Gas: While gas heaters are quickly disappearing from Moscow's apartment buildings, gas is still commonly used for cooking.
Water: Water is piped and, although officially safe to drink, is better avoided.
Heating: The heating system in Moscow is central and turned off from mid-April to mid-October.
TYPES OF BUILDINGS
Pre-Revolutionary Buildings
There are many beautiful pre-revolutionary apartment blocks in the center of the city, and many of the apartments have been tastefully renovated. The apartments in the pre-revolutionary buildings are very popular among expatriates due to their spaciousness, charm, and character. The major attractive features of these buildings include their traditionally high ceilings and large windows.
Stalin Buildings
Specific features of these buildings include high ceilings, large windows, and green yards. They tend to be nice and warm in winter due to their thick walls. The Stalin Blocks include the so-called Stalin Skyscrapers, of which there are seven in Moscow. Four of them are apartment buildings. One is located right outside metro Barrikadnaya, close to the US Embassy; one is on Kotelnicheskaya nab.; one is right outside metro Krasnye Vorota; and the last one is part of the Radisson Royal Hotel (former Ukraine Hotel), located right at the beginning of Kutuzovsky prosp. The combination of their architecture, spectacular views, and good security make them popular with expatriates.
Ministerial Buildings
Most of these buildings were built in the 1970s and early 1980s and were considered the first VIP blocks in Soviet times. Today they are popular for their clean entrance, good security (most of them have a fenced-in yard and twenty-four hour security), secure parking, large windows and balconies, and lots of built-in storage space.
VIP Apartment Buildings
This new generation buildings include Western developments and newly-constructed elite compounds. These buildings usually have a concierge, nice entrance, as well as equipped kitchens, air conditioning, and electronic alarm and fire control systems. Many also feature twenty-four hour security, an underground parking garage, or a private fenced-in yard. Some have a gym, sauna, and/or swimming pool.
Western Developments
While some are located in the city center, others are located outside of the Garden Ring. They offer professional on-site property management and good security. Townhouses in gated communities catering to expatriates and the Russian nouveau riche are also available. There are bargains to be had. Rental prices can sometimes be reduced by 10 to 30% from the original price depending on how long the apartment has been on the market; what the landlord's main interest is (price or timing); the type of building and its location; and the season. The basic rule of thumb is that the closer you are to the center of Moscow or to a metro station, the more you will have to pay.
What You Can Expect to Pay for Rent
Rental prices in Moscow can range from $ 600 a month for a Soviet-style studio or one-bedroom apartment far from the city center to $10,000 and $20,000 a month for a luxury apartment in downtown Moscow. Generally, rental rates for Western-style housing in Moscow are very high and are comparable to those in downtown New York, London, or Tokyo. Prices also depend on whether the neighbourhood is industrialized and polluted or green with parks and trees. Remember to ask your real estate agent whether taxes, such as VAT, are included in the quoted rental price or not.
What You Should and Should not Pay for
Expatriate residential expenses in Russia usually consist of monthly (or quarterly) rental payments. Rent should include all municipal facilities such as water, heating, and building maintenance. Electricity, gas bills and the monthly phone line subscription fee are usually excluded from the monthly rent because the final sum depends on how much, e.g. gas or electricity you use each month. Charges for electricity and gas are still very low in Russia and shouldn't add more than a few dollars to your monthly rental costs. In addition to this, you will of course have to pay the phone bill for any inter-city and international phone calls, as well as the monthly subscription fee for satellite TV.
When renting an apartment through a real estate agency, be prepared to pay a commission fee equal to one month rent. When making the first rental payment to the landlord, you will usually also be expected to pay a one-month security deposit, which is then used as the rent for the last month of your stay in the apartment or house. When negotiating your rental contract, make sure it clearly states who has to pay for what in order to avoid problems later on. |
|
|
|
|
| 61. | Ask the Dentist :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
10% discount on first visit, includes X-Rays, teeth cleaning, Exam by Dr. Giovanni Favero who has been working in Moscow for 12 years. We offer excellent Preventive Dentistry, Cosmetic Dentistry, Implantology, Orthodontics by Dr. Garo, and Dental hygiene. Emergency care 24/7. Please take the time to "CLICK" on our website for more details about discounts.
Address: Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul., 21a, Metro: Mayakovskaya, Tel: 797-9759, e-mail: dentist@ardc.ru, www.ardc.ru.
|
|
|
|
|
| 62. | Communication & Postal Services::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Communication & Postal Services
POSTAL SERVICES
Russian post services handle all kinds of communications, including local and international postal services, registered mail (incoming and outgoing), stamps, telegrams, intercity and international phone calls, newspaper and magazine subscriptions. Box rentals, intercity and international call services may only be available at the Main Post Office. Post offices (pochta) are located all over Moscow; each neighbourhood has at least one.
Moscow's Main Post Office (Moskovsky Glavpochtamt) is located at Myasnitskaya ul., 26, metro Turgenevskaya or Chistye Prudy. It is open 24/7. A convenient, centrally located post office is the Central Telegraph (Tsentralny Telegraph) at Tverskaya ul., 7, just up the hill from the National Hotel. Moscow's Main International Post Office is located at Varshavskoye sh., 37, metro Nagatinskaya.
Sending and Receiving Mail
If you want your friends and relatives to send you mail from abroad to your home or work address, make sure you provide them with the complete address. One of the most important items in your address is the postal index (equivalent to zip code), which consists of six numbers. Find out the index of your home address from your landlord; that of your work should be printed on your business car. An incorrect index will result in your mail being sent to the wrong post office in Moscow, which will delay delivery as your mail will have to be re-sent to the post office that handles your area.
For incoming mail, it is okay if the address is written in English. Ask your friends to clearly print all letters. (Capital letters are best). You might also want to e-mail or fax them your address in Russian printed letters so that they can copy in onto the envelope. Outgoing international mail can obviously also be address in English, but it helps if you spell out the name of the country to which you are sending your postcard, letter or parcel in English and in Russian.
If you want to send a letter or parcel from Russia, you should address it as follows:
country (only for international mail, including that to the former republics);
index and city;
street, building number, entrance number, apartment number;
last name, first name and patronymic (the latter only if applicable).
Public mail boxes are blue with the word "Pochta" written on them in white letters. They are available all over town and each post office usually has one outside (attached to the wall) and one inside. Regular mail will be delivered to the mail box (pochtovy yashchik) inside your building or to your office reception.
If someone sent you a registered letter or parcel and you are not at home when the post office attempts to deliver it, they will put a slip of paper in your post box notifying you of its arrival. The paper will also say at which post office you can retrieve your mail. You must complete the back of the slip which asks for your name, address in Moscow, passport details (issued where, when and by which agency). You must then show your original passport to receive your mail. If you fail to show up within several days of the notification, you might have to pay storage charges.
The Russian post service is still a bit unreliable - an airmail letter from Moscow to another country can take anywhere from three weeks to three months to arrive; the same applies to incoming mail. Important items and documents should only be sent by registered mail. A registered letter is called "zakaznoye pismo"; a registered parcel is called "zakaznaya pasylka". The best (but also the most expensive) option will be express mail company.
COMMUNICATION
Making Phone Calls within Moscow
When dialed from your home landline, phone calls within Moscow are still free of charge. Unless you live in a residential compound or hotel, which might require you to dial a number such as 0 or 9 to get access to an outside line, you just pick up the phone and dial the number. The majority of landline phone numbers in Moscow consists of seven digits. As Moscow has two area codes (495 or 499), sometimes you have to dial eleven digits (if case with 499 code). The same applies to making a phone call to a federal mobile number.
Making Phone Calls to Other Cities in Russia
Phone calls to other cities in Russia are still quite affordable. To reach a phone number in another city in Russia, dial 8, wait for the tone, then dial 55 or 53, then dial the area code of the city you are calling followed by the local number. For example, to call someone in St.Petersburg, dial 8, wait for the tone, then dial 55 or 53, then dial 812 (the area code for St.Petersburg) and the local phone number.
Making Calls to Other Countries
It is fairly easy to make an international phone call from a standard Russian telephone line, and normally you will get through even to remote locations. To access an outside line, dial 8 and wait for the tone. Then dial 10, followed by the country code, the city code and the local phone number you want to reach. For example, to call a number in the US, dial 8, wait for the tone, then dial 10 followed by 1 (the country code for the US) followed by the area code and local number.
If the city code starts with a 0 (e.g. in the UK and Germany), do not dial the 0 and start with the first non-zero number after it. For example, to call London, you would dial 8-10-44-208 followed by the local number (instead of 8-10-0208). When giving friends abroad your phone number in Moscow, remember to tell them the country code for Russia is 7 and the area codes for Moscow are 495 or 499. Your landlord will for sure tell you your area code. If you have a seven-digit home or office number or a direct Moscow mobile number, they need to dial +7 495 111 11 11.
Information on international dialing codes
Mobile Phones and Mobile Communication
The mobile phone market works slightly differently in Russia than in other countries, particularly the US. Service companies do not throw in the handset for free as part of your sign-up package. When you sign-up for service, you will receive a SIM card, which contains all of your account information. The card can be inserted into any unlocked handset (the great majority of handsets on sale in Russia are unlocked). When you purchase your SIM card and phone, be sure to keep all of the paper work that you are given in a safe place. If you lose your phone, call your service provider immediately so that they can freeze your account. In most cases, they can reissue you a new SIM card and you can retain your old number, service package and account balance. Mobile phones are available from numerous stores and shops all over town. At most of them you can get your new phone connected on the spot through the provider of your choice. There are 3 major phone operators in Moscow: Beeline, Megafon and MTS. They all offer a wide range of services and payment plans.
Two different kinds of mobile phone numbers are currently available in Moscow: a direct number and non-direct/federal number. A direct number is a seven-digit number, just like any other Moscow number, and can be accessed from any home, office or other mobile phone. A federal number consists of the number 8 followed by a three-digit area code such as 916, 926, 960 and a seven-digit number. Service charges for a direct number are more expensive than for the non-direct/federal number option. All major phone operator in Moscow offer an international roaming.
If you want to send an SMS to a direct Moscow mobile number you need to enter +7 495 followed by the seven-digit number.
You can top up your mobile phone in a variety of ways:
You can purchase mobile phone cards, that are sold everywhere from supermarkets to kiosks.
You can use multi-kassas - special devices that are on every corner and that look a little bit like ATMs. Usually when you pay with multi-kassa, you have to pay extra commission about 2-5%. In some mobile phone shops (like Svyaznoi) there are multi-kassas without extra commission.
You can top up your phone in any mobile phone shop. No commission is taken.
You can pay by your credit card directly via ATM.
You can top up your phone transmitting money form your bank account via Internet-banking.
Pay Phones
A pay phone is called a "taksofon" in Russian. You will find several different types of pay phones in Moscow. Some work with tokens, which are sold in kiosks and in metro stations; others work with pre-paid phone cards. Some allow you to make local, national and international calls while others are only for local calls. A particular kind of phone card will only work with particular kinds of pay phones, i.e. there are no universal pay phone cards.
Internet Service & Satellite TV Providers
There are many internet service providers in Moscow offering high-speed broadband internet access, as well as ADSL high-speed access with Akado, Stream and Corbina being the most popular ones. Prices for internet access are moderate compared to Europe and USA with the cheapest tariff rates starting from about 250 Rbs. Moscow features lots of free Wi-Fi hotspots available in restaurant, cafes, clubs, hotels and other public places, though internet cafes with wired internet access are also at your service. Satellite TV is getting more and more popular in Moscow. Major satellite TV providers are listed here. |
|
|
|
|
| 63. | Relocation Guide :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Export of Artwork and Antiques from the Russian Federation
One important aspect of export customs clearance for personal belongings in Russia is that export permits for artwork and antiques must be obtained from the Ministry of Culture of the Russian Federation prior to the actual customs clearance of your shipment. Your moving company should handle this for you.
Allied Pickfords Moscow employs a dedicated customs specialist who is exclusively responsible for the export and import of artwork and antiques. For more information on this subject, please go to the section on the Export and Import of Artwork and Antiques. |
|
|
|
|
| 64. | Relocation Guide :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
| DISCLAIMER - The above information was compiled by Allied Pickfords Moscow and is distributed on an “AS IS” basis, without warranty. Please note that customs regulations are subject to change at any time and without prior notice. The preceding information is a brief summary of customs regulations applicable to the export and import of motor vehicles from and to the Russian Federation and is being provided for general guidance only. Allied Pickfords cannot be held liable for any costs, damage, delays, loss or other detrimental events resulting from non-compliance with Russian Federation customs regulations or alleged to have been caused directly or indirectly by the information provided here. |
|
|
|
|
| 65. | Relocation Guide :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
| DISCLAIMER - The above information was compiled by Allied Pickfords Moscow and is distributed on an “AS IS” basis, without warranty. Please note that customs regulations are subject to change at any time and without prior notice. The preceding information is a brief summary of customs regulations applicable to the export and import of artworks and antiques from and to the Russian Federation and is being provided for general guidance only. Allied Pickfords cannot be held liable for any costs, damage, delays, loss or other detrimental events resulting from non-compliance with Russian Federation customs regulations or alleged to have been caused directly or indirectly by the information provided here. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 68. | ATM Machines :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Raiffeisen Bank's 24 hour ATM's
Cards Accepted: VISA
Metro Sukharevskaya or Tsvetnoy Boulevard: Ul. Troitskaya, 17/1 (Head Office of "Raiffeisenbank Austria")
Metro Taganskaya: Ul. Nikoloyamskaya, 13/2 (Business Center "Forum-3")
Metro Biblioteka im. Lenina or Okhotny Ryad: Per. Romanov, 4/4 (Business Center "Romanov dvor")
Metro Prospect Mira: Olimpijsky Prospect, 18/1 (Hotel Renaissance Moscow)
Metro Paveletskaya: Shluzovaya Nab. 6/1 (Hotel "Katerina")
Metro Mayakovskaya: Ul. Gasheka, 7 (Business Center "Dukat-2")
(Attn: for employees of the tenants of business center only)
Metro Paveletskaya: Paveletskaya Pl., 2/1 (Business Center "Paveletskaya Plaza")
(Attn: for employees of the tenants of business center only)
Metro Marksitskaya: Ul. Taganskaya, 17/23 (Business Center "Park Towers")
(Attn: for employees of the tenants of business center only) |
|
|
|
|
| 69. | Children in Moscow::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Children in Moscow
Some Formal Issues
Children born abroad to expatriate parents may find their citizenship rights affected, either by laws in the country of assignment or those of their home country. It is, therefore, important to check on both sets of regulations well before the child is born. Your embassy should be able to provide you with all the information you need.
If the baby is born in Moscow you should contact your embassy to receive citizenship for your child and to apply for a passport.
Circumcision can be performed in a maternity hospital, but you should discuss this with your doctor before birth so that the necessary arrangements can be made.
If you are interested in adopting a Russian child, your first step for advice should be your doctor/medical clinic in Moscow. They should be able to provide you with contact details for reliable adoption agencies. The Russian Ministry of Education and Science has an official adoption website at www.usynovite.ru with detailed information on the adoption process and information on thousands of children in orphanages across the country that are up for adoption.
Education
There are over 1800 high schools and 110 colleges in Moscow. Beside these, there are over 200 institutions offering higher education in Moscow, including 60 state universities and the leading Russian University - the Lomonosov Moscow State University, which was founded in 1755.
Moscow has a number of international schools and nurseries, which are popular with the expat community. All schools are fee-paying. The fees depend on the grade level, period of enrolment and whether or not your child requires any additional support programmes. In general, it varies between 3000 and 7000 Euro. The admission procedures for all schools are quite complex and consist of several steps (application form, test, interview etc); therefore, it is better to begin to do it well in advance. The academic year lasts from September 1st to the middle or end of June with summer vacations from July 1st to August 31st.
Books
The majority of bookstores have vast sections of children's books but mostly in Russian. Luckily there are some bookstores offering a selection of children's books in English, German and French.
Shopping
In Moscow you may find anything you need for your child (from an infants to teenagers) as there are plenty of stores to buy children's goods in: from markets and small local shops to large shopping malls and boutiques offering branded children's clothes and shoes. Note that closing and shoes sizes differ in Russia, Europe and USA.
Clothing SizesAge (y.o.)
Height (cm)
Size 1-1,5
86
- Russia
USA
UK
Europe 13
7.5
n/a
24 |
|
|
|
|
| 70. | International Dialing Codes :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
International Dialing Codes
Making Phone Calls Within Moscow
When dialed from your home landline, phone calls within Moscow are still free of charge. Unless you live in a residential compound or hotel, which might require you to dial a number such as 0 or 9 to get access to an outside line, you just pick up the phone and dial the number.
The majority of landline phone numbers in Moscow consist of seven digits. As Moscow has two area codes (495 and 499), sometimes you have to dial eleven digits (depending if you're calling between the two). The same applies to making a phone call to a federal mobile number.
Making Phone Calls to Other Cities in Russia
Phone calls to other cities in Russia are still quite affordable. To reach a phone number in another city in Russia, dial 8, wait for the tone, then dial 55 or 53, then dial the area code of the city you are calling followed by the local number. For example, to call someone in St-Petersburg, dial 8, wait for the tone, then dial 55 or 53, then dial 812 (the area code for St-Petersburg) and the local phone number.
Making Calls to Other Countries
It is fairly easy to make an international phone call from a standard Russian telephone line, and normally you will get through even to remote locations.
To access an outside line, dial 8 and wait for the tone. Then dial 10, followed by the country code, the city code and the local phone number you want to reach.
For example, to call a number in the US, dial 8, wait for the tone, then dial 10 followed by 1 (the country code for the US) followed by the area code and local number.
If the city code starts with a 0 (e.g., in the UK and Germany), do not dial the 0 and start with the first non-zero number after it. For example, to call London, you would dial 8-10-44-208 followed by the local number (instead of 8-10-0208).
When giving friends abroad your phone number in Moscow, remember to tell them the country code for Russia is 7 and the area codes for Moscow are 495 and 499. Your landlord will for sure tell you your area code.
If you have a seven-digit home or office number or a direct Moscow mobile number, they need to dial +7 495 111 11 11.
You can buy international prepaid calling cards (in kiosks around Moscow, notably the orange "A La Carte" kiosks) which offer considerable savings on calls. Some cards have optimized tariffs for different countries, so buy one which suits your needs best. The quality of connection can sometimes be spotty with the cheapest of these cards.
Paying your Domestic Phone Bill
Once a month you'll find a small slip of paper in your mailbox with some printing on it. That's your phone bill for long distance and international calls - no envelope, and very easy to miss in the clutter of junk mail.
To pay the bill:
You can go down to the local Sberbank and get in line;
You can use multi-kassas - special devices that are on every corner and that look a little bit like ATMs. Usually when you pay with multi-kassa, you have to pay extra commission about 2-5%;
You can pay by your credit card directly via ATM;
You can transmit money form your bank account via Internet-banking.
Once you've paid your bill be sure to save it. And if you wait too long to pay the service is cut off.
CountryCode
Australia
Austria
Azerbaijan
Albania
Algeria
Angola
Andorra
Argentina
Armenia
Anguilla
Antille
Aruba
Alaska
Bangladesh
Belarus
Belgium
Bolivia
Bosnia & Gercegovina
Brazil
Bulgaria
Bahrain
Barbados
Bahamas
Bahrain
Belize
Benin
Bermuda
Bhutan
Botswana
British Virgin Islands
Brunei
Burkina Faso
Burundi
Cameroon
Canada
China
Chile
Colombia
Congo (Zaire)
Costa Rica
Croatia
Cuba
Cyprus
Czechia
Cambodia
Cape Verde Islands
Cayman Islands
Central African Republic
Chad
Christmas Island
Denmark
Diego Garcia
Djibouti
Dominica
Dominican Republic
Egypt
Ecuador
Estonia
Ethiopia
El Salvador
Equatorial Guinea
Eritrea
Finland
France
Faeroe Islands
Fiji Islands
French Antilles
French Guiana
French Polynesia
Gabon
Georgia
Germany
Gibraltar
Greece
Gambia
Ghana
Greenland
Grenada
Guadeloupe
Guam
Guatemala
Guyana
Hawaii
Hungary
Haiti
Honduras
Hong Kong
India
Indonesia
Iran
Iraq
Iceland
Ireland
Israel
Italy
Ivory Coast
Japan
Jordan
Jamaica
Kazakhstan
Kenya
Kuwait
Kyrgyzstan
Kiribati
Korea (North)
Korea (South)
Laos
Latvia
Lebanon
Liberia
Libya
Lithuania
Luxembourg
Liechtenstein
Lesotho
Macedonia
Madagascar
Malaysia
Mali
Malta
Morocco
Mauritania
Mexico
Moldova
Mongolia
Macau
Malawi
Maldives Islands
Marshall Islands
Mauritius
Mayotte Island
Montserrat
Mozambique
Myanmar (Burma)
Nepal
Netherlands
New Zealand
Nicaragua
Nigeria
Norway
Namibia
Nauru
Netherlands Antilles
Nevis
New Caledonia
Niger
Niue
Norfolk Island
Oman
Pakistan
Panama
Philippines
Poland
Portugal
Palestine
Palau
Papua New Guinea
Paraguay
Peru
Qatar
Romania
Russia
Reunion Island
Rwanda
Saudi Arabia
Senegal
Singapore
Syria
Slovakia
Slovenia
Somali
South Africa
Spain
Sweden
Switzerland
Sierra Leone
Sri Lanka
Suriname
Swaziland
Solomon Islands
Seychelles Islands
Tajikistan
Taiwan
Thailand
Tunisia
Turkey
Turkmenistan
Tanzania
Togo
Tonga Islands
Trinidad Tobago
Ukraine
United Kingdom
USA
Uzbekistan
Uruguay
Uganda
U.S. Virgin Islands
Venezuela
Vietnam
Vanuatu
Vatican City
Western Samoa
Wallis & Futuna Islands
Yemen
Yugoslavia
Zambia
Zimbabwe
61
43
994
355
213
244
376
54
374
1264
599
297
1907
880
375
32
591
387
55
359
973
1246
1242
973
501
229
1441
975
267
1284
673
226
257
237
1
86
56
57
242
506
385
53
357
420
855
238
1345
236
235
61
45
246
253
1767
1809
20
593
372
251
503
240
291
358
33
298
679
596
594
689
241
995
49
350
30
20
233
299
1473
590
1671
502
592
1808
36
509
504
852
91
62
98
964
354
353
972
39
225
81
962
1876
7
254
965
996
686
850
82
856
371
961
231
218
370
352
423
266
389
261
60
223
356
212
222
52
373
976
853
265
960
692
230
2696
1664
258
95
977
31
64
505
234
47
264
674
599
1869
687
227
683
672
968
92
507
63
48
351
970/972
680
675
595
51
974
40
7
262
250
966
221
65
963
421
386
252
27
34
46
41
232
94
597
268
677
248
992
886
66
216
90
993
255
228
676
1868
380
44
1
998
598
256
1809
58
84
678
39
685
681
967
381
260
263
|
|
|
|
|
| 71. | Relocation Guide :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
2. Air Shipments from and to Russia
If your shipment is small and/or you want to receive your personal belongings at your destination as soon as possible, an air shipment might be the ideal choice for your move. Often people who are moving to a far-away destination send the majority of their personal belongings by surface and opt for an additional air shipment for the most urgently needed items, such as extra clothing and toys.
The price for an air shipment will depend on both the actual / physical weight and the volume of your consignment (the so-called chargeable weight).
If you want to ship large or bulky items (e.g. beds, sofas) by air, dimensions are important as not all airplanes flying in and out of Moscow can accommodate such items.
The transit time for a door-to-door air shipment is normally between seven and fourteen days, all depending on the origin and destination country’s customs regulations. Some countries require that the owner of the personal belongings be present in the country before import customs clearance can take place, which means that your shipment can only be dispatched once you have arrived in your destination country. Your moving company should be able to advise you on all these matters.
Allied Pickfords offers air shipments to and from all destinations around the globe. |
|
|
|
|
| 72. | In Case of Emergency::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
In Case of Emergency
1. Prepare for Emergencies
Keep your insurance/assistance company card with you at all times. Make a personal emergency response plan, have it translated into Russian, and keep it in your car and your wallet/billfold. This plan should answer the questions: "What would I want people to do if they found me unconscious"
2. Call your insurance/assistance company early in the event of a problem
Make a "check" call when you are not in trouble to ensure the phone number is valid and that you can reach someone who speaks your language. Check that they can do what you would want them to do in the event of an emergency. Do they have the necessary authority to act, and sufficient local personnel and infrastructure to act quickly?
If you have medical and evacuation insurance - and it is recommended that you have both - be sure that the company will agree to evacuate you or repatriate you in the event of a serious medical emergency. Disregard the marketing brochures; fax them a scenario or two and ask them to tell you what they would do. If they will not agree to commit in writing, find a better provider.
3. In the event of an emergency, speed up the response by volunteering the minimum required information logically and clearly
Name and telephone number where you can be reached if the line is cut off
Membership number of company affiliation
Brief description of the medical problem and what kind of help you need
Location of patient and location of passport (vital for overseas medical evacuation)
In certain circumstances, it may be required or recommended to go abroad for medical reasons. As in many other countries, one cannot leave Russian without proper travel documents. Therefore, have your travel documents up to date and accessible at all times. To obtain a special authorization to leave and enter countries without proper travel documents is a difficult and time-consuming process and success cannot be guaranteed.
At all times know the status and whereabouts of your and your family's passports. Never allow your travel documents to be taken from you overnight or over the week unless you know you can retrieve in an emergency.
Important Phone Numbers
Fire fighters 101
Police 102
Ambulance 103
Emergency Gas Service 104
Intercity phone calls 107
Information 109
Time (automatic clock) 100
Emergency rescue service +7 (495) 937-9911 or 911
International SOS (The Moscow Clinic, 24 hour service to its clients)
American Medical Centers (24 hours service)
European Medical Center (French, British and American experts)
International crisis Line
Tel: 8 926 1133373
This is a free English-speaking telephone counseling service for expatriates people in distress. Available 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily.
In case you ever have to call the fire fighters, the police, or an ambulance, make sure that all family members can correctly pronounce your complete address in Russian.
Post a piece of paper with your full address details and phone numbers in Russian and translation into your native language on the wall next to your phone.
Also make sure that your children know how to reach you or another adult you trust in case they get lost or have an emergency.
Note that in Russia there is difference between the police (militsiya) and the traffic police (GIBDD, formerly GAI). The police are not responsible for regulating traffic or handling car accidents, and the traffic police do not handle criminal offences that are unrelated to traffic.
Pharmacies (Apteki)
Finding a pharmacy in Moscow is definitely not a problem. In fact, quite a few number of them are open 24/7. The prices vary from one pharmacy to another, but the difference is not very significant.
Information on pharmacies in Moscow
Embassies and Consulates
Your country's embassy or consulate can:
Provide information on Russia's foreign-residency requirements;
Renew an expired passport or replace a lost or stolen one;
Report a birth in Russia to your home country;
Provide guidelines for getting married in Russia;
Help make arrangements in the case of a death;
Assist in voter registration and obtaining absentee ballots;
Register its citizens residing in Russia (so that they can be contacted in case of an emergency);
Certify copies of documents in you home country's language.
Please remember that anyone temporarily or permanently residing in Russia is subject to Russian legislation. Any private or public disputes must be settled through the Russian legal system. Diplomatic or consular officials are not authorized to practice law or to act as an attorney or agents in private matters. They should, however, be able to provide you with contact details for attorneys who can represent you in court. |
|
|
|
|
| 73. | Establishing a Business in Russia
|
Need help in establishing your business in Russia?
After years of providing a full range of start-up services to our clients, VISTA Foreign Business Support realized that there was a better way: one-fee, full-service packages tailored to meet the needs of start-up businesses. These start-up service packages include all the legal, tax, accounting, and administrative support services a company needs to enter the Russian market. We offer three levels of start-up packages to meet your needs, whether you are at the idea stage or nearly ready to begin work.
Why purchase a start-up service package?
1. You get everything you need from one firm with years of successful experience. No running around to find ten different specialists, no multiple contracts, no problems with coordination.
2. You get one team of professional, flexible and committed top specialists – from legal experts to professional bookkeepers - working with you to meet your goals.
3. You get more for your money. With a VISTA start-up service package you get Moscow’s top professionals for a more competitive price than you could get by contracting with several different firms or consultants.
4. You know ahead of time how much it will cost to start your business – no unexpected expenses. And no costly delays. You choose the level of support with a fixed price – and get our guarantee of the results you want.
5. You get just what you need. Chose the level of support that’s right for you and your company. If you want something extra – VISTA can add on services to the basic packages.
VISTA Foreign Business Support provides consulting, law and accounting services for organizations and individuals.
Phone: +7 095 933 7822, Fax: +7 095 933 7823
E-mail: startuprussia@vfbs.ru
Web: www.vfbs.ru |
|
|
|
|
| 74. | The Russian Mind-Set::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
The Russian Mind-Set
For most Russians, transitioning into new democracy with its associated freedoms has not been an easy task, and for many particularly members of the older generations, the change was not a welcome one. The failure of communism brought with it freedom that many were not prepared to exercise. Not all have welcomed the substantial restructuring of the social order that followed the implosion of the USSR - for mainly apolitical reasons (worsening of conditions for pensioners, state health care patients, educational institutions, cultural organizations, etc).
Russian Personality
Because the Russian personality has so many faces, it is difficult to define. Defeated by harsh weather, a tumultuous history and the general malaise that ensued, Russians seem to value the status quo and are reluctant to change. Security, stability, and conservatism were always held in high regard; but at the same time you will see new phenomena such as the absence of concern about the future, free spending and easy and quick adaptation of foreign practices in the younger generations in larger cities. Many foreigners find the Russian people an enigma - surprisingly nostalgic about their past yet cautiously optimistic about the future - patient but curious about the possibilities of freedom.
As some things in Russia are almost impossible to explain, there is a very good saying that you will hear over and over again as first response to your questions: "Rossiyu umom ne ponyat" which can be translated as "Russia cannot be understood with your mind" (a quotation from the poet Tyutchev).
Russians are strong people, able to endure hardship and extreme climate with submission and patience. Generally, Russians are very well educated and have a sound knowledge of literature, history and politics. The majority of the country's population lives in European Russia (the part of Russia lying west of the border with Siberia) with the largest population centers being Moscow and St. Petersburg. Most families have no more than one or two children, who are the center of the family focus.
The Russian people have traditionally been molded and directed from cradle to grave, creating individuals who assumed little responsibility for themselves. They are slowly learning how to take charge of their own lives, but the chasm between the rich and the poor, the healthy and the sick and the skilled and the unskilled continues to widen.
Traditional Russian values and core beliefs include: love of children, respect for the old, sense of humour, strong people-orientation, importance of friendship, generosity, pride, patriotism, love of literature and arts, nostalgia, self-sacrifice, apathy, conservatism, aversion to change, caution, collectivism, pessimism and cynicism.
There is widely accepted notion in Russia that there is a "soul" that makes Russians different - a sort of sadness born of oppression that demands a different social order. Whether or not this proud melancholia is fact or fiction is arguable, but the belief is almost universally held with great pride. Acres of print have been devoted to the topic, with no very firm conclusions.
Russians love and value going to the theatre, opera, ballet and concerts. The arts are avidly devoured by all sections of society - the idea that plays or classical music could be "difficult" or unpopular is rarely encountered. They also enjoy attending readings of literature and poetry. Russians love reading everything from classical literature to translations of contemporary foreign authors. They read on the metro, while they wait, and at home. You will find that your Russian friends can easily recite entire poems or passages from their favourite books. They generally have a very good knowledge of world history, geography and the arts, and this is true regardless of the person's education or occupation.
Behaviours You May Find Puzzling
There are some behaviour patterns you may find very different from those you are used to. Some things may shock you initially, but they can usually be explained through Russia's history and your Russian friends will make efforts to help you understand why things are done the way they are. Always remember that what you consider normal behaviour may seem strange to your Russian friends.
Two things that newly arrived expatriates often find particularly troubling are the fact that Russians can seem very rude and that they rarely smile in public. Rudeness in public situations is still common. You may encounter it at supermarkets, at the post office, in public transport. Please do not let this discourage you and always remember that this is nothing personal.
Smiling at strangers is a rarity in Russia. 70 years of history taught people not to trust anybody and to guard their own territory. Just recall the famous Soviet poster "Ne Boltai" (Do not Chatter) and you will understand the roots of not smiling at unfamiliar persons. There is also an inherited notion from "village Russia" that people who smile for no reason must be simpletons. However, while people tend to be introvert or aggressive on the outside, you will find that they are extremely kind and helpful if you get beyond their first suspicion. Keep going to the same supermarket, the same bank and the same dry cleaners over and over again, keep smiling and do say "hello" and "goodbye" every time you arrive and leave - people will eventually start remembering you and most will start smile back. They are often not used to people being polite and nice to them and your efforts will be appreciated. It may just take some time, so don't give up.
Russians seem to have very different concept of what it means to stand in a line. They tend to be pushy while getting on public transport and in the metro you will find that people try to get on while others are still trying to get off. The same applies to lines at meat and cheese counters in supermarkets, where it can be difficult to figure out where the line starts and who is there first. When you go to pay utility bills at a Russian bank, you may find that when it is almost your turn one or two people show up who had "reserved" a place in the line and then took care of something else at another counter or just sit down while waiting for their turn. It is common practice to reserve a place in a line simply by telling the person in front of you "you are behind them" ("ya budu za vami"). This practice dated back to Soviet times when lines for just about everything were so long that it was impossible to get something done if you just occupied one single line.
Houses entrances, rest rooms and some other public areas may not be well cared for. You may, for example, see a beautiful apartment in a building with a dilapidated entrance and filthy staircase. In Soviet times, this was not the case: the streets and public areas were clean and littering was basically unheard of. Today people do not seem to care for anything that happens outside of the limits of their apartments. However, things are slowly starting to improve.
Drivers in Moscow are generally very aggressive, and you may find this pretty daunting if you come from a country where drivers are polite and abide by the rules. There seems a comprehensive spirit involved in driving - everybody wants to be the first one to take off from a red light.
Russians love to comment and give advice. Don't be surprised to get unsolicited advice on how to dress your children in winter or on the necessity of wearing a hat in cold winter.
People - both men and women - still drink beer in pubic. While this is not publicly frowned upon, the government is trying to change this habit, but so far the efforts have not led to any noticeable results. Restriction of shopping hours for alcohol was never previously known in Russia, but sterner measures have been introduced from 2009 onwards, mostly by individual cities - the results vary from strict (St. Petersburg, 23:00 total ban) via haphazard (Moscow region) to utterly invisible (most of the rest of the country).
While Russians devote considerable time and cost to their own personal wardrobe and grooming, they are relatively unjudgemental about others - figuring that a person' soul is the most important, and taking a very liberal line on allowing for differing customs elsewhere. An odd Soviet throwback, however, is a private habit of awarding unmentioned merit-marks to the quality and shine of the shoes other people wear. You can make a good first impression with very little effort in this field. Sports footwear is poorly regarded in general, and is often cited (by doormen) as fair reason to deny entrance to fashionable clubs or restaurants.
While Russians can be secretive when dealing with foreigners, they can also be very curious. You may find yourself in situations when people just met ask you how much money you make. In the vast majority of cases there is absolutely no criminal interest behind these questions, but you may still not want to divulge too much personal information about your family and yourself unless you know your conversation partner very well. Very often such questions arise from "fellow professionals" who are keen to know how their profession might be valued abroad.
When you come to a Russian home you will most certainly be offered tea or coffee along with something to eat. If you arrive around lunch and dinner time, you may be invited to join the family for the meal. When inviting Russian friends over your house for drinks make sure you have some good food to offer - drinks accompanied by cheese and grapes just don't do.
Concepts of Space and Personal Space
On the one hand, Russians live in the world's largest country and think big in many ways. They tend to make big plans, even if they know that they will never be able to implement them. At the same time, they usually stand very close to each other in conversation or when standing in line. This may be a remnant from the Soviet past when people had to be very careful about what they said and always made sure that no one else was listening. Standing close to each other allows you to speak more quietly and to feel that others aren't able to hear what you are talking about. When someone has something very important to tell you and you are speaking to that person over the phone, you may still hear them say that "this is not a phone conversation", meaning that they prefer to tell you in person because they are still afraid of someone else may be listening. The reason why people stand close to each other in lines is more difficult to explain. It might have something to do with a feeling of getting to the front of the line sooner as there is less distance to the "target". Touching, hugging, and kissing friends and close acquaintance is common. You may find this uncomfortable if you come from a no- or little- contact culture.
As people still pay very little money for electricity and hot water, these resources are literally wasted. Russians will do the dishes under running hot water instead of letting them soak in the sink. Nobody will complain if you take a hot shower for half an hour or a hot bath twice a day. At the same time that electricity is still very cheap, Russians seem to prefer dim lighting. You will notice this in the metro, on the streets, in staircase, and even in people's homes where the lighting could often be a lot brighter. Street lights are not very bright, and often entire yards have no lighting for weeks on end.
These days light bulbs in public areas of apartment buildings usually have to be replaced by residents, who are often hesitant about replacing something that is not for their own use exclusively. If you want the housing department or your neighbours to replace the broken light bulbs, you may be in for a very long (and dark) wait. If you encounter such a problem in your apartment building, just buy some light bulbs and replace the broken ones - Russia has no laws (yet) on expensive energy-saving bulbs, and regular clear-glass bulbs cost just pennies. You may win the friendship or respect of your neighbours if you occasionally mop the landing area between the lift and your door.
FAVOURITE RUSSIAN PASTIMES
Dacha
Dacha is a term that refers to a summerhouse and can stand for pretty much everything from a small wooden shack without running water, gas or electricity to a lavish multi-story house in the countryside. While not everyone has a dacha, most people have relatives, neighbours or friends who do, and everyone who can normally jump at the opportunity to leave the city on weekends and escape to cleaner air and nature. Dachas are usually big projects that require the involvement of the entire family. Most dachas are not used in winter, but as soon as the last snow has gone people set out to repair and prepare their dachas for the coming summer. The majority of people who have even a small plot of land still plant vegetables and herbs at their dacha and many also have apple trees and berries. These of course require constant maintenance all the way to late autumn when the plots and trees have to be prepared for the coming winter. In short, a dacha is often not a place to relax and lie in the sun but rather a second full-time job.
Shashlyki
Shashlyki (barbecues) are a very popular activity on summer weekends when Russians often invite friends to their dacha for a barbecue.
Banya
Over the centuries, the Russian banya (bath house) has served people not only as a place where they could clean themselves, but also as a place for restoring health. It is believed that by visiting the banya many health problems can be cured. Among other positive effects, the steam in the banya helps expel fat from the body, restores the tonus of blood vessels and clean pores.
The difference between the Russian banya and the Finnish sauna lies in the kind of steam. The steam in the Russian banya is humid, and in order to reach the best effect, hot water is poured onto hot stones. The temperature inside a Russian banya can reach 60°C (140°F). The steam in a Finnish sauna, on the other hand, is dry, and the temperature can reach up to 100°C (212°F). After having spent some time in the steam room, banya visitors will jump into a pool with gold water as a kind of contrast treatment.
A very important banya attribute is the "venik" (a kind of broom made from dried birch, oak or fir branches and leaves), which banya visitors beach each other with. Apart from a positive effect on health, the banya also is a place where friends get together to relax. While at the banya, Russians like to drink beer, which is often accompanied by "vobla" - a kind of dried fish. Sometimes people have too much fun at the banya - a great example of this is provided in the very funny and highly recommended Soviet comedy "The Irony of Fate".
Mushroom Collecting
It is a tradition dating back to ancient times. Russia has a lot of forest areas where different kinds of mushrooms grow in abundance. While mushrooms have always been an important component of the national diet, they have also become a substitute for meat during the Orthodox Christian Lent. Over 200 kinds of edible mushrooms grow in Russia. Apart from protein and fats, mushrooms also contain a number of minerals such as iron, calcium, and zinc. However, there are also about 25 poisonous types of mushrooms in Russia, so unless you are very experienced you should never collect and consume mushrooms without consulting with an expert in this field. You can tell that mushroom season has arrived when you see them being sold outside metro stations. While you should never collect and consume mushrooms that grow in Moscow or within a 30 km radius of the city, the Moscow region is considered relatively safe.
A mushroom collecting trip usually involves a long car or train ride to ecologically clean area outside Moscow. If you want to get there before others do, you have to leave home in the wee hours of morning. Remember that forest areas are very popular with mosquitoes so make sure you bring sufficient amounts of mosquito repellent and wear long-sleeved shirts. The most common kind of edible mushrooms are chanterelle, oyster mushrooms, porcini and yellow boletus. A mushroom-hunting trip is often an excuse for a fun trip to the country, and if you fail to find any you can always quietly buy some from sellers at the roadside, and claim you found them yourself. Be ready to cook them into dishes or freeze them when you get home - they won't keep more than a day without spoiling. The same trip can also be a good chance to pick some forest wild berries - blackberries, redcurrants, and many others flourish within just an hour of the city limits.
Cross-Country Skiing
It is a very popular winter activity that often the whole family participates in. Children learn this sport at school from an early age. You can engage in cross-country skiing in any of Moscow's larger parks.
Fishing
While you will see people fishing in the Moskva River, fishing is not recommended in Moscow due to highly polluted rivers and ponds. You can however go fishing at any of the larger water reservoirs river parts outside of town.
Grandchildren
Grandchildren are a very popular activity for any grandmother (and grandfather). It is very common in Russia for grandparents to take care of their grandchildren while their parents are at work. They will take the children for walks, take them to the playground, to/from kindergarten or school, will cook them lunch, and often even supervise their homework assignments. Many grandchildren spend the entire summer at their grandparents' dacha, giving the parents some time for themselves. While this may seem very convenient, it sometimes results in problems as parents and grandparents often have very different ideas on how to best raise a child. Russians traditionally lived in extended families in one big house until very recently, and many of the grandparents involved will have been raised in that way.
Ice Swimming
It is a less common, but nevertheless very interesting pastime. An extreme way of keeping fit, the ice swimmers (called "morzhi" - walruses in Russian) are very proud of their "sport" and consider it a way of life. Even babies and toddlers are subjected to short immersion in ice cold water to make them strong, and may people in their 70s and 80s still regularly engage in this invigorating activity on a regular basis. The roots of ice swimming date back to pre-revolutionary times and have links to the Russian Orthodox Church as a way of cleaning sin. Every winter during religious festivals, worshippers would submerge themselves in icy waters to erase all sins from their bodies. For contemporary "morzhi", however, ice swimming is part of everyday life rather than a religious practice. When ice forms on lakes and rivers, these enthusiastic sportsmen will cut swimming holes in the ice that are carefully maintained so that bathing is possible throughout the winter. Each session is very short but a challenging experience for the uninitiated. If you want to try ice swimming, please consult with your doctor before jumping into the icy water. While this is a stimulating and energizing activity, it can easily send your body into spasms and causes severe joint ache.
New Russians: Who are They?
As a result of the changes this country has undergone since the early 1990s, a class of so-called "new Russians" has developed. These people acquired a lot of wealth very quickly (whether legally or not is another question) and have become somewhat conspicuous consumers. Very western in their dress and manner, these new captains of Russian commerce are demanding and getting the attention of others who are not in the same position. People who do not belong to this circle of the chosen few usually (and understandably) do not approve of their flamboyance.
These are very influential people purchasing prime property in Switzerland, the United Kingdom, Cyprus, France, and many other countries along with soccer clubs and other sports teams. If they don't own an airplane, they will fly first class. They go on dream vacations while their children attend top European private schools and universities. The best customers of Moscow's five-star hotels are Russians - not foreign businessmen.
While many wealthy people abroad try not to show off their wealth in public, rich Russians still like to show what they have and can afford - a habit that isn't always advantageous for them. You will see an amazing number of very expensive foreign cars in Moscow's streets and you may be stunned at the suburban houses these people build - complete with swimming pools, tennis courts, bodyguards and housing for staff. While the gap between rich and poor in Russia is getting wider all the time, recent years have seen the development of a small middle class. Its members are characterized by a good education, relatively well-paying jobs and entrepreneurial spirit.
With all it luxurious new VIP residential buildings, expensive stores and restaurants, you may be under the impression that people in Moscow are quite well off. In reality this is not the case. While the country's elite tends to settle in Moscow and there are a lot of rich people living here, the majority of Muscovites (and those in the rest of Russia) are struggling very hard just to feed and clothe themselves and their families. And just as New York isn't the USA, Moscow isn't Russia. If you want to see what the real Russia is like, you have to travel to the provinces and villages outside of Moscow, in Siberia and the Far East - although these regions have their own "new rich" too.
ATTITUDES
General Attitudes
The mindset of the younger Russian generation is not as much pro-anything, as it is anti-communist. Difficult times and general uncertainty are accompanied by the feeling that democracy is better. This does not mean that Russians are not complaining. While they are critical of the slow pace reform and of the new leaders, they are nonetheless loyal and optimistic about the future of their country.
Making the transition from a society completely dependent upon the state to one in which the individual shares responsibility has been a very difficult and traumatic process for Russia and her people, and the Russians don't yet seem to have a clear picture of their selves. The demise of communism has hugely affected life in Russia, and the sometimes-halting democracy that has taken its place is still developing. Under communist rule, the State was responsible for everything - even for piffling things. Today people must make decisions and take responsibility for them - not an easy task for those who have been raised to follow, not to lead.
Attitudes in the Workplace
The older generation of Russians - although for the most part well-educated, hard-working and disciplined - is a product of the communist system in which workers were not rewarded for personal incentives nor punished for being non-productive. Not having been raised to "get ahead" and to amass personal fortunes, they may respect these traits in foreigners but generally abhor them in their Russian colleagues. You may hear the phrase "initiative is punishable" from members of the older generations and it can be difficult to convince them that personal initiative and doing your own thinking is not only welcomed, but is a necessity in the new Russia.
The attitudes of the younger generations are for most part, very different. Achievements in the workplace are highly regarded. You will find many highly trained young Russians who, on top of having an excellent education, speak fluent English and/or other foreign languages. Many choose to further their education and qualifications voluntarily at evening classes at their own expense.
Attitudes toward Foreigners
Russians generally respect and admire the business expertise and technology skills and tools of European, North American and Asian companies and are interested in doing business with them.
In some quarters Russians tend to blame Western influence for the hard times brought about by reform. The economic disparity between foreigners and themselves may also raise the hurdle of understanding. Russians have historically feared and distrusted foreigners, but today's foreign community in Moscow lives in relative harmony with the locals. Some Russians may respect their presence, but most appreciate the efforts of foreigners to modernize the local economy.
While Russians are well aware of the fact that things in Russia aren't perfect, they do not appreciate it when foreigners criticize their country, or boast excessively about the alleged superiority of their homelands. Very often questions about how things are managed overseas will actually be a delicate appeal for some positive comments about how things are by comparison in Russia - a tactful reply, without toadying, will be appreciated. It is useful to have some pre-prepared compliments about some neutral topics - the affordability and frequency of public transport, the low cost of public amenities, etc.
Attitudes towards Women
The communists maintained the equal status of men and women in the classless society, and many women had (and still have) the dual responsibility of adding to family income through a full-time job and of caring (shopping, cooking, cleaning) for the family. In the workplace opportunities for women have been slow to surface. While women in Russia have always had the opportunity to pursue higher education and many have at least one degree, they do not typically fill leadership positions yet.
Foreigners working in Russia often find that Russian women who have reached managerial positions are more serious, harder working and more creative than their male counterparts. However, radical changes must occur for the Russian mentality to accept women in positions superior to men. The male network in business is unwilling to allow women to progress.
Foreign businesswomen might encounter some resistance. Conservative dress and demeanour and a serious attitude will be helpful in dealing with Russian men, keeping a certain distance rather than being too friendly is advisable. It is also best to ignore the inequality between the sexes that exists in Russia, instead behaving as if business were transacted in the west.
Men are still the "dominant" gender in Russia and many Russians are uncomfortable with very strong women. A woman who stays aloof will be respected, whereas overly friendly behaviour may be misinterpreted.
Attitudes towards Human Rights
Although the 1993 Constitution guarantees basic human rights, the progress toward internationally-recognized human rights for all citizens is by far not yet complete. Large gains have been made on the domestic side, but abuses have been reported within the military and police forces. Conditions in Russia detention facilities are far below acceptable standards. While reforms are ongoing, the process is slow.
Attitudes toward the Disabled
Moscow and Russia on the whole is not a great place for physically disabled or mentally challenged children and adults. If you have a child with a severe physical or mental disability, you should think twice before moving to Moscow.
Generally attitudes toward disabled people in Russia aren't very good. As there aren't many opportunities for the disabled, they usually stay at home. You will, therefore, hardly ever encounter disabled people on the streets. It is not uncommon to encounter disabled people begging on public transport - particularly military veterans. You may want to prioritise generosity over any feelings of "patronizing" them - they get little other help in their lives.
State assistance to people with disabled family members is very limited. Consequently, a large proportion of women who give birth to a disabled child decide to give it up right after the child is born. These children are then condemned to a sad existence in state-run orphanages and will receive little to no physical or mental development support.
Educational opportunities for disabled children and adults are extremely limited. Even the private foreign schools in Moscow will only accept children with very minor disabilities. It is almost impossible to get around Moscow physically in a wheelchair as building entrances; sidewalks and public transportation are mostly not wheelchair-friendly.
Russian Names and Titles
Russian names have three parts: a first name (forename), a so-called "patronymic" middle name, and a surname. The "patronymic" derives from the father's name followed by the suffixes. These are "evich" or "ovich" for a son (meaning son of) or "evna" or "ovna" for a daughter (meaning daughter of). Example: A woman's full name might be Tatiana Ivanovna Smirnova. This means that her father's first name was Ivan. Her brothers' name could be Sergey Ivanovich Smirnov. Patronymics refer strictly to the child's biological father, and would not change on the mother's remarriage, on adoption, etc. (In the old Russian villages, where perhaps just 2-3 families and their descendants made up the whole village (the law forbade peasants to leave their owner's employ or land - so people didn't travel) a person's surname was almost immaterial - it was more useful to say you were "Pavel, Ivan's son", or "Irina, Ilya's daughter" by way of introduction.)
An "a" is added to the end of most (but not all) surnames of Russian females.
It is common and considered polite to address people you do not know very well and/or that are older than you by their first name and patronymic. Russians rarely refer to each other by their first and last names, although some - especially the younger generation - will call each other by their last names. You might hear children shout something like "Hey Smirnova" or "Hey Smirnov". If you are trying to find someone and only know that person's first and last name, you can ask for "Gospozha Tatiana Smirnova" (Mrs. Tatiana Smirnova) or "Gospodin Sergey Smirnov" (Mr. Sergey Smirnov).
A Russian woman usually adopts her husband's last name after marriage, but there are exceptions.
Common female names are Anna (Anya), Ekaterina (Katya), Elena (Lena), Irina (Ira), Yulia (Yulya), Maria (Masha), Natalia (Natasha), Olga (Olya), Svetlana (Sveta), Tatiana (Tanya), etc. Names of females are often altered even further, especially in terms of endearment between close friends. Thus Masha can turn into Mashenka, Lena into Lenochka, and Anya into Anyuta. Lyuba can become Lyubochka, and Yulia is often called Yulka or Yulechka. Coining these "pet-name" versions is an art in itself, and the mutual freedom to use them is considered part of the friendship bonding process. You may find your own (foreign) name converted to a nickname version - don't be offended, it is a sign of warm friendship.
Common male names are Alexander (Sasha, Shura, Sanya), Dmitry (Dima), Eugeny (Zhenya), Ivan (Vanya), Mikhail (Misha), Nikolai (Kolya), Sergey (Seryozha), Victor (Vitya), Vladimir (Volodya, Vova), etc. Often the names in parentheses are shortened even further, Seryozha can turn into Seryozh or Seryoga, Mikhail into Mish or Misha.
A modern friendly jokey way of referring to friends (rather than merely "colleagues") at work (but not superiors!) is to employ 19th century habit of using a shortened version of their patronymic - the way 19th century employers would talk to their servants. Thus Nikolai Ivanovich might be "Ivanych" to his work chums, and "Elena Ivanovna" might be "Ivanovna". Wait until you are proficient in Russian before using this in practice. If you can pull it off in practice, it will win you friends. Obviously it has to be done with a sense of fun - or it would cause offence.
The shortened names given in parentheses are commonly used, but you should never use them without asking permission. Not every Elizaveta wants to be called Lisa and not every Vladimir likes being addressed as Vova - it would be considered as "excessive familiarity". Beware of using them to people "lower in the pecking order" than yourself - you might end up patronizing people instead of befriending them as you hoped.
The shortened names Sasha and Zhenya are used for both females and males.
Another important thing to remember is that the Russian language - much like French and German - has two separate pronouns for the second person singular, differing in degrees of politeness. Technically, there are two words for the second person singular: "ty", which is used in the same sense as the French "tu" and the German "du"; and "Vy". Note that this word starts with a capital letter, which is similar to the French "Vous" and the German "Sie". Except for children you should never address anybody with the personal "ty" without asking for their permission. The word for the second person plural pronoun is also "vy" but it is spelled with a small letter.
The best way to avoid unpleasant situation is to ask individuals how they would like to be addressed. If you would like to address someone as "ty" instead of "Vy", you should ask "Mozhno na ty?" ("Can I call you "you"?")
The most common form of address in today's international office environment is first names in combination with the formal "Vy"; colleagues occupying the same rank may also use the personal "ty".
Russian Customs, Etiquette, and Popular Superstitions
Even if you are not planning to be in Russia for long, you should make every effort to learn at least a few basic words and phrases in Russian. You colleagues, neighbours, friends, and others will be impressed and the gesture will be highly appreciated. Russians generally consider their language to be a very difficult one for foreigners to learn. With the exception of your Russian teacher, they will not expect you to become fluent in Russian, but they will be amazed if you are able to carry on a simple conversation a few months after your arrival.
Even if you fail to learn much Russian, learning the alphabet (there are only 31 letters plus two silent symbols) will make a quantum improvement in your ability to move around independently. Russian is laden with imported words from other languages - once you can decode the letters, these words ("bar", "restoran", "stadion", "musey") appear to you, as if by magic.
Never shake hands with or kiss someone over the threshold of the doorstep or you will quarrel with this person (an old superstition).
Take off your gloves when shaking hands.
Returning home if you forgot something brings back luck. If it happens that you must return for something, looking in a mirror before leaving again dispels the "bad luck".
Before leaving the house on a trip, it is customary to sit down on one's suitcase for a minute or so to reflect on the trip (silently, for 4-5 seconds) and to recall whether you have forgotten anything.
It you are not married, never sit down at the corner of a square table. If you do, you will not get married for seven years.
Spitting three times over your left shoulder prevents bad luck. (You my hear Russians say "tfu-tfu-tfu" - a "spitting" incantation against bad luck.) So does knocking on wood.
Do not put your hands in your pockets.
Do not sit with your legs wide apart.
Do not cross your legs with the ankle on the knee or put your feet on the table. It is considered impolite to show others the soles of your shoes.
Whistling is regarded as a sure way to guarantee that you will soon part with all your money.
Never light a cigarette from a candle. This is also said to bring bad luck.
Never pour wine backhanded. It is impolite and also signifies that you will "pour" your money away.
If you spit salt on the table, you will be plagued by bad luck unless you throw three pinches of salt over your left shoulder immediately.
Always bring a gift for the hostess if invited into a Russian home. A box of candy and/or flowers are traditional gifts for the hostess, as is a bottle of good wine, cognac or vodka for the host. Arriving "with empty hands" is considered the poorest manners.
Never give an even number of flowers to someone - even numbers are for funerals only!
When entering a Russian home, offer to take off your shoes. In most cases your host will provide you with slippers (called "tapochki" in Russian).
Be prepared to accept smoking.
Be prepared to accept all food and alcohol when visiting friends. Refusing a drink or toast is a serious breach of etiquette. An open bottle often has to be finished. However, Russians will understand if you do not drink at all (e.g. for health reasons or because of religious beliefs, or because you have to drive later).
Be prepared to give toasts at dinners and presentations. Do not say "Na Zdoroviye" ("To your health" - this is actually a toast only in Poland) - the correct form is "Vashe Zdoroviye" ("Your health"). Russian toasts can be very long and elaborate. For birthdays, weddings and other important events, friends and colleagues often write poems for the person they wish to congratulate. You don't have to do that of course, but it helps to be prepared to at least say a few sentences. While the toast is being sad, do not continue eating or drinking. You are expected to listen, regardless of the length of the speech. An easy and amusing toast a foreigner can make is that the host's fame has spread abroad, and they are now known in your country too. Chinking glasses with everyone else (or as far as you can reach) is considered usual.
At birthday parties, by tradition, all the toasts are to some aspect of the birthday boy/girl - try to think of some witty compliments. There may often be a toast to their parents, "who gave him/her to us" - even if they aren't present. If one or other of the parents is no longer alive, you don't chink glasses for this toast.
If you plan on visiting a Russian Orthodox Church, dress conservatively (no shirt skirts or shorts). Women must cover their hair before entering the church, so bring a headscarf. Men, on the other hand, must remove headwear (hats, caps). Some extremely severe monasteries may insist on women donning a wraparound long skirt - if so, these will be provided on free loan at the gateway entrance, and using them is obligatory. Better to wait outside if you don't wish to respect their dress code requirements.
On public transportation, younger men and women should give up their seat to mothers with small children, pregnant women and elderly people. Certain seats may be marked for the use of these categories of people anyhow.
Men should offer to carry parcels and heavy bags for women they accompanying. This is local custom, regardless of what you may be used to or believe in at home.
That conveniently free seat on the jam-packed tram or bus is for the conductor - you are not allowed to sit there!
When going to the theatre or a concert, you are expected to check your coat and any larger bags at the coat check. When squeezing past others into your seat, take care to face them as you pass - doing it "the way you are used to" is regarded as "shoving your ass in their face" in Russia, and is a social no-no.
Always emphasize the good and the beautiful things you like in Moscow and Russia, try not to criticize and compare. Russians know that there are a lot of problems in this country, but they are also very proud of their history and culture. They will highly appreciate it if you show them that you like it here - or at least like some of it!
Small gifts are much appreciated. Keep a list of people who have been nice and helpful to you, such as your concierge, parking lot attendant, your favourite vendor at the supermarket, a friendly neighbour, etc. Give them a small gift such as a box of chocolate or candy or a small souvenir from your home country for major holidays, such as New Year's. Only women are given gifts on March 8th and flowers will be much appreciated, along with a nice card. Pretty calendars and company gifts such as coffee mugs and pens are also good. And, of course, don't forget about your driver, nanny, housekeeper and other friendly helpers. Along with a "real" gift, they will also appreciate a cash bonus.
Along with your baggage, bring a good amount of patience, sympathy, tolerance, and your sense of humour. These should get you through most difficulties. Russians are used to long centuries of foreigners bringing their eccentric habits and peculiarities with them to Russia - and they will tolerate almost any accidental indiscretions if you can manage a friendly grin as you commit them.
Based on the materials from the book "Living in Moscow" by Barbara Spier. |
|
|
|
|
| 75. | Health Care::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Health Care
General Information
The Russian health care system has seen major improvements in recent years, both in technologies and pharmaceuticals. Moscow hosts a number of Western medical clinics that can look after all of your family's health needs. The clinics are spread out over the city; therefore, regardless of your location, there is sure to be medical provision in the vicinity.
When coming to Russia, bring a good supply of any prescription medicine needed. Ensure you can continue that supply from a local facility or that you can find a local substitute acceptable to your original prescribing physician.
Early in your stay - when there is no emergency - identify the closest medical facility with English-speaking personnel. Ascertain its working hours and its reputation, if possible. If in Moscow for the first time, bring a copy of your medical records with you to assist your new doctor in becoming familiar with your past medical history. The approach to the provision of medical care as a service to both the population and the individual may be quite different to what you are used to.
Unless absolutely necessary, as in major medical emergency, it is suggested that you do not go to the local hospital on your own without first contacting your medical assistance company; if you must, at least ensure you have a Russian speaker to assist you. Unsure that you have enough money to guarantee any admission fees that may be charged.
Many medications can be purchased here over the counter that would only be available by prescription in your home country. However, in most cases the manufacture is different and, therefore, the drug is identified by a different brand name. Know the generic (chemical) name of your medicines if you think you are going to need to restock locally. Bring the package insert from your previous prescription with you. Fraudulent drugs are not a major problem in Russia, but be careful and check the dispensed drug before you pay for it.
Some medications including controlled drugs and drugs of dependence (i.e., sedatives and hypnotics; medications to treat the hyperactivity disorders of children; strong pain relievers; and some drugs for diabetics and epileptics) are simply nor available in Russia. If you are on such a medication, please speak to your physician in your home country and a physician at one of the medical clinics in Moscow to find out how to best handle this situation.
Vaccinations
Russia has no vaccination requirements, but it is a good idea to keep your shots op-to-date. If you need a shot while here, please contact one of the medical centers in Moscow. The following vaccinations are recommended for individuals traveling to or living in Russia for linger periods of time:
Hepatitis A or immune globulin (IG). Transmission of hepatitis A virus can occur through direct person-to-person contact; through exposure to contaminated water, ice or shellfish harvested in contaminated water; or from fruits, vegetables or other foods that are eaten uncooked and that were contaminated during harvesting or subsequent handling.
Hepatitis B, especially if you might be exposed to blood or body fluids (for example, health care workers), have sexual contact with the local population, or are exposed through medical treatment.
Typhoid. Typhoid fever can be contracted through contaminated drinking water or food, or by eating food or drinking beverages that have been handled by a person who is infected.
As needed, booster doses for tetanus, diphtheria and measles. Outbreaks of diphtheria have been reported in states of the former Soviet Union.
Tick-borne encephalitis is a viral infection of the central nervous system that occurs in the southern parts of the non-tropical forest belt in Europe and Asia, including Russia. Travelers are at risk who visit or work in forested areas during the summer months and who consume unpasteurized dairy products.
Rabies, if you might have extensive unprotected outdoor exposure in rural areas, such as might occur during camping, hiking or cycling or engaging in certain occupation activities.
Skin Care
Newcomers frequently have difficulty in adjusting to the dry air conditions in their apartments. Ladies complain of dry skin, broken fingernails, etc. Most women find that they use extra face cream. An electric humidifier helps a great deal. It is also useful to place pans of water around you apartment.
Eye Care
Dry, cold and polluted air is hard on eyes, especially if you wear contact lenses. Users are advised to give eyes a rest from contact lenses from time to time. It is advisable to have spare lenses or glasses with you. You can purchase all kinds and brands of imported prescription and non-prescription contact lenses (including Johnson & Johnson, Bausch & Lomb, etc), colored contact lenses, contact lens cleaners, glasses (including designer frames) and sunglasses at any larger optician's.
Most of them have qualified opticians or ophthalmologists and sophisticated equipment and will carry out a complete eye exam before fitting you with contact lenses or glasses. Fees for the eye exam are usually very moderate. Do not expect the ophthalmologists or consultants to speak English though. If you have just started you Russian lessons, take someone along who can communicate in Russian. Most pharmacies carry imported contact lens cleaners and moisturizing eye drops, while contact lens containers may only be available from specialist shops.
Digestion Care
Generally, it is advisable not to buy meat or diary products from anywhere other than a reputable market or shop. Meat purchased in the market should be inspected carefully to ascertain its freshness, and particular care should be taken in the summer months because of lack of refrigeration. Any meat bought at a market should be well cooked. Diary products bought at outdoor markets may not be pasteurized and should not be given to young children or consumed by pregnant women. All fruit and vegetables should be washed thoroughly before eating. Water from the tap is suitable for cooking, but people normally filter drinking water or use bottled water.
Health Care Insurance
Before coming to Moscow, make sure you have full medical and dental insurance coverage for yourself and all family members that will cover any emergencies (and medical evacuation) that occur during your stay in the Russian federation. Western medical and dental services in Russia are very expensive if you are not covered.
If you are not insured when coming to Russia, please contact several Moscow medical centers to find out whether they offer their own insurance plans, or ask them for recommendations of reputable companies in Moscow or abroad that offer health insurance for expatriates. If you already have insurance, call the medical or dental clinic you intend to visit to make sure that they accept and have a direct billing agreement with your insurance company and which, if any, restrictions apply in an emergency situation. If you are not insured or your insurance plan requires you to pre-pay all services for later reimbursement, check which credit cards are accepted or whether payment must be made in cash.
Note that coverage with foreign insurers must be purchased abroad, under Russian law it is illegal to sell insurance policies that are issued by an insurer that is not licensed in Russia. Before you choose a health care insurance provider, whether local or foreign, make sure you read the fine print and discuss any questions you have. Many insurance companies do not pay for health problems pertaining to pre-existing conditions, which might include any chronic health problems such as diabetes. If you use a foreign insurance provider, deductibles may apply. Since the cost of medical services in may medical centers in Russia is lower that abroad, the doctor's consultation fee may fall under deductible.
Most foreign health care insurance providers have contracts with a limited number of medical clinics in Russia. This could mean that through your insurance policy you are forced to use a certain health care provider in Moscow. Unless your insurance company has a direct billing agreement with the medical clinic you intend to use, you will have to advance the payment and then claim reimbursement from the insurance company later. Some providers require pre-authorization, meaning that you must contact the insurance company before using medical services in Russia.
Clinics and Dental Care
Several Western medical centers and dental clinics operate in Moscow. Most have at least some expatriate doctors and friendly English-speaking support staff and are equipped to handle both minor and major medical emergencies. Some also offer house calls and medical evacuation services. Most clinics are open 24 hours a day, seven days a week or at least provide emergency services during the night.
While most Russian hospitals are not up to Western standards, Russian doctors are generally very good. Several Russian hospitals in Moscow have special arrangements with GlavUPDK (the main administration for the foreign diplomatic corps in Moscow) and accept foreigners for checkups and treatments at more moderate prices that the Western medical clinics.
Psychological Care
Living in a foreign country is always challenging and stressful. Everyone - from the working partner to the spouse and children - can be affected, and there is absolutely no shame in turning to professional help, which is available in Moscow. Problems frequently experienced by expatriates on international assignments include stress, anxiety and loneliness. A problem specific to northern countries, such as Russia, is SAD (Season Affective Disorder). If you find yourself in any situation you feel you cannot cope with on your own, please call someone. This someone can be a friend, a member of your women's club's newcomer's team, a nurse or a doctor at your medical center or some professionals.
PREGNANCY AND GIVING BIRTH IN MOSCOW
General Information
If you are an expecting mother who is moving to or currently living in Moscow, you will need information and advice for the period of your stay in Moscow. One option is to join a "mother-to-be" support group to share experience and useful information. Contact details and useful information can be obtained through one of the international women's clubs in Moscow and - if you have older children that are attending school - through your school's community liaison office or school newsletter.
You can attend childbirth education classes for further advice on pregnancy, delivery, breastfeeding, and baby care and to learn about what to expect in Moscow. Most classes offered in Moscow are held in Russian, but you can contact any of the Western medical clinics in Moscow to find out about English-language pre-natal classes.
Hospitals and Doctors
Not all hospitals have maternity wards, and even less have neonatal care units. On the other hand there are several hospitals that cater exclusively to future mothers and their babies. A maternity hospital is called "roddom", meaning "house of birth". Most hospitals in Russia require visitors to wear plastic shoe covers. These are usually available from the concierge or at the coat check area near entrance for a small fee.
To make arrangements to give birth at a hospital in Russia, you will need to sign a contract and pay a deposit. Some Russian doctors speak good English (less frequently German or French), but if you need language assistance during labor and birth, you can make arrangements with an English-speaking healthcare provider in Moscow for an interpreter to be present during labor and childbirth. Make sure the hospital of your choice is aware of this arrangement.
Many things are done differently here than in your own country. The layout of the delivery room, for example, is different from those in American or European hospitals and usually offers less privacy.
Once you have chosen a doctor you will be issued a certificate regarding your pregnancy to carry with you. This certificate includes all pertinent information on your pregnancy and prenatal visits. Information on the birth itself and data for the newborn baby will be added later on. The certificate is issued in Russia, and it helps to avoid additional testing on admission to the maternity hospital. It provides the doctors and nursed with all the information they need to ensure a safe delivery and good prenatal care for your baby.
Hospital Stay
The usual length of stay in hospital is between three and five days; if you want to leave earlier you will be asked to sign a special form. After the baby is born you should contact your embassy to receive citizenship for your child and to apply for a passport.
Pediatrician
The Russian public health care system provides a local pediatrician for the first time home visit and a few follow-up visits by the district pediatric nurse. You can make an appointment for the well-baby visit in most family clinics. Some clinics in Moscow provide pediatric house calls. However, if you live a great distance from the clinic, please, check with your pediatrician if this service is provided.
Immunization
You can have your baby vaccinated through a private clinic or you can have vaccinations done for free (Russian-made vaccines) through the public health care system. Most expatriates prefer to use private clinics for their baby's immunizations where only Western-made vaccines from the world's leading manufacture are used. In Russia, a few days after birth a BCG vaccine is administered. You should discuss with your doctor whether you want this vaccination to be done or not. The immunization schedule in Russia differs from that in America and Western Europe - Hib, Varicella and Hepatitus A vaccinations are not on the national immunization calendar.
Private medical clinics will let you follow the immunization schedule from your home country, and most vaccines are readily available. Many local day care centers and play schools will ask you to provide your child's vaccination certificate, and many schools in Moscow test children for tuberculosis (PPD skin) on an annual basis. |
|
|
|
|
| 76. | Shopping::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Shopping
Food Shopping
Shopping in Moscow could be done day and night and you can find anything you want. Food shopping is very easy, and the choice of supermarkets - both Western and Russian - and products is huge. There are a number of shopping opportunities, ranging from small convenience stores located close to apartment blocks and metro stations to huge shopping centers found everywhere, including the city outskirts.
For those who like to shop in supermarkets, there is a variety of different chains, offering a wide range of products, including some that are popular particularly within the expatriate community. There are also farmer's markets where you can buy fresh goods directly from the producers.
Last but not least, you will find numerous smaller "kiosks" (small booths or stalls) all over town. Concentrations are particularly high outside metro stations. Some sell a variety of beverages, cigarettes and chocolates while others specialize in bread, fruit and vegetables, meat products, or toiletries. Some sell products made by a particular factory (meat and sausages in particular).
Many supermarkets are open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Smaller food stores and food markets are also usually open seven days a week but many close around 9 or 10 p.m. Payment is accepted in rubles only, some of the larger supermarkets accept credit cards (usually they will ask for some photo-ID document). Along with food items and beverages, most supermarkets also sell a variety of other household items - from toiletries, cleaning liquids, detergents, and small selections of kitchenware to pantyhose, magazines and toys.
You should be able to find most of the items you're used to in Moscow. In addition to the locally produced goods, vast numbers of imported food products, and beverages are readily available here. Russian bread, milk products, sausage meats, salads, pancakes and frozen food (such as pelmeni, filled pancakes, vegetable patties, frozen dough, etc) are of excellent quality and taste great.
Carrying large bags, satchels, briefcases or similar bulky items is not allowed in most shops - small lockers are provided near the entrance, which you should use. In some supermarkets there are no lockers but at the entrance you will find a man or a woman with plastic bags of different size - you are supposed to put your bags (satchels or briefcases) in the plastic bag that will be sealed with a special device, and keep it with you while shopping. Most supermarkets charge a tiny fee for carrier bags - others provide very poor ones for free, while offering more substantial ones for a small price. Few Russians have heard of the issue of voluntarily limiting the use of plastic bags for ecological reasons.
Food Markets
What is a Russian "rynok" (market)? This word refers to a typical Russian farmer's market. These markets are located throughout the city and vary in size and pricing, but they all operate year round, seven days a week (except public holidays). Most farmer's markets have separate smaller buildings for such staple crops as potatoes, cabbage, onions, and carrots and for marinated garlic, cucumbers and wine leaves. The main hall usually has plenty of fruits and vegetables, spices, herbs, milk products, honey, fish, meat and poultry. Note that the word "rynok" can also refer to a wholesale market, which mostly has canned, boxed and pre-packed foodstuffs along with various household items; to a clothing market; or to a building materials market.
Things to Remember while Shopping at Markets
Bring a basket - you'll probably end up buying more than you planned.
Many vendors will offer you a sample of their product. Bear in mind that fruit and vegetables at the market have not been washed if you accept this offer.
Make sure you understand whether the price is for a kilo (za kilogram) or for one item (za adnu shtuku).
Don't forget to bargain, especially when buying fruit and vegetables. Many vendors at the market come from the Caucasus, where bargaining is an essential part of shopping.
Be careful when purchasing meat in the summertime - it is often not refrigerated.
Check you change - mistakes can and do happen.
Markets tend to be crowded, so beware of pickpockets. Do not carry your keys, passports and money in a lady's purse. Stow them away in a safe place. Never put documents, keys or money in the back pocket of your pants.
Buying Caviar
Be aware that black caviar (sturgeon caviar) is now under very tight legal controls which make it effectively impossible to purchase in Russia - Russian policy has changed, and they now take the Endangered Species of sturgeons very seriously. Do not get involved in buying it - in addition to the moral issues involved, you can end up in jail. Red caviar (salmon caviar) on the other hand is completely legal to purchase (and to take abroad with you) and is just as delicious.
Sweets
Russia produces a large variety of chocolates, bonbons, other candy, and cakes. Large supermarkets often have a separate section selling cakes. While Russians prefer to buy entire cakes, many stores now sell individual pieces. The most famous Russia chocolate factories are Krasny Oktyabr, Rot-Front, Babaevsky. Russian chocolate is of highest quality.
Alcohol
Wines, whisky, and other quality alcoholic beverages are now widely available in Moscow - but only from shops. Street kiosks and stands cannot sell anything stronger than beer by law. Russian-produced wines may be different to the taste you are used to, but you might like to try them - there are no bargains here, and the cheapest ones are cheap for a reason. In addition to a dazzling array of vodkas, Russian-produced cognacs can be enjoyable - once again, avoid the low-priced stuff if you can.
Reading Expiration Dates
Figuring out expiration dates for food products and beverages can be tricky affair in Russia. The vast majority of imported products have the expiration date stamped, printed or engraved on either the top or bottom of the container or can or on the lid. Some (for example, baby food) have both the production and expiration data. Some local producers have already switched to this system. However, you need to be aware of the fact that some Russian companies still print the production and not the expiration date on their products, which can cause confusion. In such cases you will find the production date printed and a message saying: "This product can be kept for 'x' months/years from the production date" somewhere on the can, container or packaging. This most often applies to eggs, Russian canned goods, Russian chocolate, some milk products and pre-packaged bread. Yet other products (for example, some Russian juices and milk products) may come with both the production and expiration data). As everywhere in the world, check the dates if you are suspicious
Peculiarities of Communication with Vendors
You may find that vendors become impatient when you are unable to explain to them what you want. Please don't be offended - this is not because they don't like you personally. Shop assistants are paid to serve the public, but not to be especially polite or charming to the customers - don't take their offhand attitude personally. In privately-run shops, or at kiosks being run by the owner service can sometimes be charming, especially if you become a "regular" - you may even begin to enjoy "privileges" such as them keeping-back the best fruit for you, or saving something for you in case you drop by.
Clothing and Accessories
Clothing, shoes and accessories can also be purchased everywhere, with the options ranging from everyday affordable to designer and haute couture. The most expensive outlets such as Chanel and Hermes are located on Tretyakovsky passage and Stoleshnikov lane; while the less expansive clothing lines, such as H&M, Zara etc. can be found in many Moscow shopping centers, e.g. Mega Mall, Stockmann, Metropolis. In the last 2-3 years a range of city-centre shopping malls have opened where you can find franchises of international chains like Fat Face, Benetton, Marks & Spencers, Uniqlo etc. The two largest malls are Evropeisky (adjacent to Kievsky station) and Atrium (adjacent to Kursky station) - these have substantially superceded the previous generation of malls, whose weary ranges are still on sale to those who haven't yet found the better places.
Among the great variety of shops, boutiques, fashion salons and galleries in modern Moscow there are those that enter the "must see" category. Along with Kremlin and the Red Square they head the list of the main tourist attractions. Among them are GUM, TsUM, and Okhotny Ryad.
GUM (Main Universal (Department) Store)
Known before the Revolution as Upper Trade Rows, GUM has been "a shopping center" of Moscow for ages. Its luxuriant edifice houses three arcades of shops under a glass roof. Recently renovated, it lost all the traces of Soviet stagnation and now houses some top Western trade chains along with speciality shops and boutiques. GUM's image has mutated considerably from soviet grot to opulent elegance - it's now a location for premium brands. Russians coming to Moscow from other cities still come to GUM to shop, but Muscovites have mostly moved-on from GUM's overpriced and somewhat snooty outlets. It is worth coming here to see the extraordinarily beautiful building itself, and perhaps have a coffee in one of the upper galleries - but there are better places for actual shopping these days.
TsUM (Central Universal (Department) Store)
Another large department store of Moscow, TsUM, traces its history since 1880s, when Scotsmen Archibald Merilees and Andrew Muir founded the branch of their trading company "Muir and Merilees" in Moscow. In 1892 "Muir and Merilees" department store welcomed the first customers in the new building on Petrovka street. The modern building was erected in 1908 after a project by Roman Klein; that time it was considered to be a technical breakthrough and an architectural masterpiece. Moscow tour guides usually classify it as "one of the last samples of European Gothic, slightly influenced by Art Nouveau". Completely reconstructed in 1997, TsUM now complies all international standards of service, though it's too expensive for most ordinary Muscovites. Muscovites in-the-know generally consider TsUM better than GUM as an upscale retailer of premium-priced branded goods - but no-one does their daily shopping at either.
Okhotny Ryad
Located right near Kremlin, this underground three-storeyed shopping palace serves also as one of the main tourist sights. Plenty of shops and boutiques, offering wide range of goods, are located in this shopping centre. World most famous brands, such as Mexx, Calvin Klein, Tissot, along with less famous but also less expensive, are represented in "Okhotny Ryad", satisfying taste and requirements of customers of different personal income. The noisy and hot, sticky atmosphere isn't appreciated by all, although a teenage public likes to hang out there. But most shoppers are increasingly attracted by the much wider range of shops, and nicer facilities and services, at Evropeisky or Atrium, or the out-of-town malls like Mega. |
|
|
|
|
| 77. | Driving in Moscow::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Driving in Moscow
General information
There are over 3 million cars in the city on a daily basis. Recent years have seen a significant growth in the number of cars, which has lead to traffic jams and unavailability of parking space. Driving in Moscow can be a daunting experience for the uninitiated. Traffic accidents (and resulting deaths) are more numerous that in North America and most European countries - despite the fact that there still are fewer cars). Russian drivers regularly ignore traffic lights, road signs and traffic regulations as well as pedestrians, so you have to be very careful and drive defensively at all the time. Random stop-n-checks by the Traffic Cops are regular, and you need not have committed any kind of irregularity to be (legally) pulled-over in this way.
Many Russian drivers have not obtained their driving license in an official way - it is, unfortunately still relatively easy to "buy" a driving license in Russia. For all of these reasons, many expatriates choose not to drive in Moscow. They often make use of a driver provided by their employee, hire a private driver, or use public transportation.
Moscow Road System
Road conditions in Moscow are not too bad but they get worse as you leave town. Generally little attention is paid to paving, maintenance and roadside facilities. Moscow has a complicated road system with three major ring roads: the MKAD or Moscow Ring Road, which goes all the way around Moscow; the Garden Ring which encircles the city center and the Third Ring in-between the MKAD and the Garden Ring. There is also a smaller half-ring road (half because it doesn't form a closed circle), which is called the Boulevard Ring and is located in the city center. The city center consists of a complicated network of smaller streets and lanes, many of which are one-way streets. The Fourth Transport Ring is to be built in the future.
Documents to Carry with You
Drivers must always carry the following documents with them:
Passport (foreigners must also have their original Russian visa and migration card)
Driving license
Registration certificate
Motor vehicle insurance
A Power of Attorney if the car does not belong to you. If you are driving on office are, the Power of Attorney will normally only be valid for several months at a time and must be renewed on a regular basis.
Technical inspection card
Things to Keep in Mind
Many street signs are in Russian only and finding as address can be tricky. It is better buying a good Moscow street atlas, preferably a larger one that shows all individual buildings. You can also now obtain reliable GPS devices covering Moscow and surroundings.
The whole streets can be closed off when the president or another important person is expected to drive by. Rubevo-Uspenskoye shosse, Kutuzovsy prospect and Novy Arbat are especially prone to these situations, as are the roads to international airports if a major dignitary or delegation is arriving or leaving.
You should take travel routes to and from work into account when looking for an apartment or house in Moscow.
GIBDD
The GIBDD (State Inspection for the Safety or Road Traffic) is the Russian traffic police. Formerly called GAI (State Automobile Inspection), they are still referred to as such by many. The GIBDD is a separate police entity and has nothing to do with the regular Russian police. A traffic police officer is commonly referred to as a "gaishnik". Despite the official difference between the GIBDD and the Militia, their emergency phone number is the same - 02.
Arbitrary checks by traffic police are frequent. They can stop you to check documents, make sure your technical inspection card has been renewed, etc. While fines for minor violations, such as not wearing a seatbelt, are extremely rare, other violations, such as crossing a solid white line are subject to hefty fines (by Russian standards). Technically, you can also be fined for not having a first-aid kit or a fire extinguisher in your car.
The GIBDD frequently stops drivers on weekend and Monday mornings for alcohol checks. If you fail the breathalyzer test, you will be required to give a blood sample for further analysis. In such instances you want to include one or more sterile syringes in your first-aid kit. Procedures for paying fines are subject to frequent change. Any GIBDD officer must introduce himself (there are almost no female GIBDD officers in Russia) with his title (e.g. sergeant) and his last name upon request, he must show his badge.
Driving Licence
To be on the safe side, you should obtain an International Driver's Permit (IDP) before coming to Russia. Foreigners staying in Russia for less than six months can use their national driving licence, but must have the licence translated into Russian. The translation must be notarized. Foreigners intending to stay in Russia for longer than six months must obtain a Russian driving licence.
Normally any foreigner wishing to apply for a Russian driving licence must provide the following documents:
His/her passport and valid Russian visa with the OVIR registration stamp
A medical certificate (available from any major health clinic)
His/her national driving licence, a notarized photocopy of the licence, and a notarized translation
If the original (national) driving licence is still valid, the applicant only has to take and pass a theoretical driving test. If the applicant's licence has expired, he/she must also pass a practical driving exam before a Russian licence can be issued. Exams must normally be taken in Russian.
If you do not have a driving licence, you can obtain one in Moscow. However, in order to do so, you must be fluent in Russian: the theoretical and practical instruction is conducted in Russian. Some schools may allow you to bring an interpreter, but this may be difficult. Before enrolling in a local driving school, make sure that the school is recognized by the GIBDD and will register the students for the state driving exam. Getting a driving licence in Moscow is still quite affordable when compared to the West.
Obtaining a first-time driving licence in Russia involves enrolling in a local driving school, passing a medical test, going through two months of theoretical and practical driving instruction, and taking (passing) state driving exams. The exam is the same for both Russian nationals and foreigners, but foreigners have to take the exam in a different place.
Accidents
If you are involved in an accident and there is serious damage to your or the other side vehicle(s) and/or people are injured, stay right where the accident took place - even if you are in the middle of a busy intersection - and wait for a GIBDD officer. You will either have to call the GIBDD yourself (possible only if you have mobile phone and you speak Russian) or ask somebody else (e.g. the other driver involved in the accident, your office, your friend to call them. Do not expect the GIBDD officers to speak English.
To report an accident, call the police at 02 and provide them with all details of the accident (location, number and kind of vehicles involved, injuries, etc.) If necessary, call an ambulance at 03. Remember that leaving the site of an accident in which someone was injured is a criminal offense.
If the damage is small, you may settle the dispute with the other involved party on the spot. Many people prefer doing so as filling a police report even for a traffic accident can be a major nuisance in terms of lost time and formalities. Bear in mind that repairing a foreign car in Moscow can be expensive. If the damage is extensive, you must wait for the GIBDD. If you leave the scene of the accident without a detailed, written report from traffic police, you will have no chance of recovering money for damages to your and other side vehicle from your insurance company.
If you decide to involve the GIBDD in an accident, they will draw up a detailed accident report that will include sketch of the scene. If you do not speak/read/understand Russian, call your office and ask for an interpreter to be sent to the site of the accident as soon as possible. You will be asked to sign the accident report, but you should not do so if you do not understand what it says; you will need it for your insurance company. It may be wise to very discreetly take down the officer's name and badge number.
Note that it can take a long time for the GIBDD to arrive at the scene of an accident - even if the accident is causing major traffic problems. Provided that no personal injuries were reported, the officers often don't seem to in a hurry. However, once they arrive, they are usually quite good at handling the situation. If you are hit by another car and that car drives off, do not chase it. Stay, call the police, and file the report. Disputes over accidents have to be settled in court.
Insurance
On July 1st, 2003, mandatory car insurance was introduced in Russia. According to this new law, every car owner must have an insurance policy certifying that he/she is insured against third-party liability. However, as this mandatory insurance policy only provides coverage up to certain mount and does not include coverage for car theft and vandalism, it is advisable to purchase additional (voluntary) insurance. Ideally, you should purchase both mandatory and voluntary insurance through the same company.
Licence Plates
Most cars in Moscow have white licence plates with black letters. Red licence plates with white numbers and letters are reserved for diplomatic cars. A "CD" on such a licence plate stands for "Chef de Mission Diplomatique", a "D" for diplomat, and a "T" for "Trade". Blue licence plates with white numbers and letters are reserved for Russian officials and the police.
Traffic Jams
Moscow heavily suffers from the traffic jams. Many people have even missed their flights because they didn't plan on getting stuck in traffic on the way to the airport. Major traffic jams occur regularly on all larger thoroughfares leading into and out Moscow, as well as on the ring road mentioned above. Traffic is particularly heavy going into town on weekday mornings and to the suburbs on weekday afternoons and evenings. The Garden Ring (Sadovoe Kol'tso) suffers from traffic jams all day long, although they are usually worse from about 8.30 a.m. to 10.30 a.m. and then again from about 4.30 p.m. to 8.30 p.m. on weekdays.
Late spring to mid-autumn is dacha season in Russia. The outbound dacha traffic starts early Friday afternoon and can last well into Saturday morning, with the return traffic starting Sunday afternoon and often lasting into the late night. Monday mornings are also problematic during this season as many people go to work straight from their dachas, therefore, if you live on or along one of the large highways leading into/out of Moscow, expect to face this problem on a weekly basis for about five months every year.
Another problem related to the dacha season are the so-called "podsnezhniki". These are drivers who do not touch their cars all winter long. The word means "snow-covered" and stems from the fact that many drivers leave their cars outside covered by snow throughout the winter. These drivers and their cars can be a traffic hazard because the cars are old and because many of these people do not drive at least half the year and are out of practice come spring.
Parking
Parking is another consideration if you own a car. Since cars can be the target of break-ins in Moscow, it is important to have a secure parking space, which can be very difficult, particularly if you live in downtown Moscow. Many streets and lanes are very narrow, and you may not be able to park your car in front of or in the yard of your residential building, or - for that matter - your office. Things get worse in winter when snow piles up on the sides of the street.
Some apartment buildings have a small parking lot where parking spaces are allotted for tenants. If possible, negotiate the parking space at the same time you negotiate your apartment lease. Some of the newer buildings have underground garages; others have guarded yards. Residential complexes, such as Pokrovsky Hills and Rosinka, have private garages.
Buying a Car
Unless you are a fully accredited foreign diplomat, it is very difficult and expensive to import a car to Russia. In many cases your moving company will not be able to assist with the import customs clearance of your car, and you will have to pay very steep import duties.
If you can not live without a car, you can purchase one in Moscow. However, several difficulties are involved in this. If you have a foreign passport and want to buy a car, you can register the car in your name, but you will have to de-and re-register it each time you receive a new Russian visa. The other option is to register the car in a Russian friend or colleague's name and then have that person provide you with a general Power of Attorney allowing you to drive and sell your car.
You can either purchase a new car or a used vehicle. In either case make sure you purchase the car from a reputable car dealership. If you want to purchase a used car from a private individual, have it checked very thoroughly at a good car service station before buying it.
Also keep in mind that it will be difficult for you to re-export a car from Russia (unless you are a fully accredited foreign diplomat).
If the car is registered in another's person's name, you will first have to sign a sale contract with that person (so that you can prove that the car is actually ours). You must then re-register the car in your name and de-register it before it can be exported from Russia. You will also have to carefully check what the requirements for the import of motor vehicles in your destination country are.
Maintenance
Before winter arrives, have your car protected with extra undercoating and fitted with heavy-duty batteries, heavy-duty shock absorbers, and winter tires. Do not wait until the first snow - that's when most drivers remember and lines at service stations will be very long. Have your car checked on a regular basis. A number of good car maintenance services are available in Moscow. Many of them specialize in one or more vehicle brands (e.g., Volkswagen or BMW).
Petrol
A gas station is called a "avtozapravka" or "A Ze Es" for short. Gas stations are almost not-existent in the city center, particularly within the confines of the Garden Ring. Therefore, if you live in the city center, make sure you know where the closest gas stations are located. You should only fill up at reputable gas stations, such as BP (British Petroleum), TNK (Tyumen Oil Company), Yukos, or Lukoil.
The price for petrol in Russia is still significantly lower than in Western Europe and North America. Most Russian cars run on 92 or 95 petrol; foreign cars normally run on 95. Since there has been an increase of Russians driving foreign cars, this type of higher-octane petrol is readily available.
Technical Inspection
All cars on the road in Russia have to undergo a regular technical inspection, called a "tekhosmotr" in Russian. Currently, cars that are under five years old have to be inspected every two years; cars that are over five year old have to be examined once a year. The last number on your car's licence plate indicates the month in which your car must undergo the inspection. For example, if the last number is a 9, your technical inspection will be due in September.
The process is a bit complicated for people who do not speak Russian. Unless you know exactly what needs to be done, ask a driver of someone from your office to help you. If your car has passed all tests successfully, you will be issued a plastic technical inspection card, called a "talon tekhosmotra". Whoever is driving the car must carry this document with him/her at all times - along with all other necessary documents. Failure to undergo the technical inspection and/or not having the card may result in confiscation of your car or at least a heavy fine.
Towing
If you are caught driving while intoxicated; refuse to take an alcohol test; cannot produce your driving licence, your car registration papers, the documents confirming ownership of the car, or a valid Power Attorney; have illegally stopped or parked your car in a non-stopping and non-parking zone; or if your car has faulty brakes or a faulty steering system, traffic police can impound and tow your car. If your car is towed, you will have to pay a fine for the offence you have committed; pay for the towing costs; and pay an hourly fees for the time your car was impounded. These costs can amount to 10,000 Rbs or more very easily, and you will need cash to pay - no cards are accepted and there are no ATMs at the "Special Car Park". If you are not present when the car is towed, you may find it very difficult to retrieve/find it later.
Winter Driving
Driving in Moscow in winter can be a tricky and dangerous affair, especially if you are not used to such weather conditions. If you have never driven on snow, slush, ice, you may want to take a few driving lessons with an experienced driver before hitting the roads on your own. Due to huge piles of snow lining the sides of streets and yards, parking in winter is even more difficult than in summer months. Whereas a street may have two lanes, it may be reduced to one lane in winter, again because of the snow. Driving through small streets in the center can become very difficult, and cars going in opposite directions often get stuck because nobody is willing to back up.
Things to keep in your car during winter include a good heavy-duty snowbrush, a defroster for locks, and a roll of paper towels in case condensation builds up on the windows inside the car. You should also carry an extra canister of anti-freeze liquid in your trunk at all times.
Do's on the Roads
Do carry all required documents with you (along with your passport, visa, and migration card). Traffic police can make stop you anytime to check your documents. You are obliged to carry the original documents with you at all times - photocopies are not acceptable.
Do make sure that you have a first-aid-kit (including a sterile syringe, which is not mandatory), a fire extinguisher, and a sign for emergencies in your car. The traffic police can fine you if you fail to produce any of these during a roadside check.
Do drive on the right hand side of the road. This takes some getting used to when you are arriving from a country where driving is on the left.
Do drive defensively.
Do adhere to the speed limits of 60 km/h (37mph) in built-up areas and 90 km/h (55 mph) elsewhere.
Do fasten your seatbelts at all times. While regularly ignore buckling up is mandatory in Russia, you can be fined for not wearing a seatbelt. You can also be fined if your passengers are not wearing seatbelts.
Do turn your headlights when going through a tunnel.
Do look out for potholes - they can cause serious damage to your car. They may also cause drivers to weave dangerously in attempt to prevent damage to their cars.
Do stop when the GIBDD (traffic police) motions you to do so. (This can be a patrol car, but more usually a pedestrian officer at the roadside with a baton). They can stop you just to check your documents. Failure to stop can have very serious consequences, including being fired upon by the officers (who have the right to do so).
Do watch where you park in the center of town. Cars may be towed away or clamped.
Do be careful where you leave your car at night - break-ins do happen. Do not leave anything lying around the car. Put things that must stay in your car into the trunk.
Do make sure that your car is properly insured through a reputable insurance company. Carrying the Insurance Certificate with you at all times is a legal requirement.
Do remain flexible.
Do keep your license plate clean - you can be fined for a dirty/illegible license plate.
Do Not's on the Road
Don't drink and drive! Russia has a 0.3 pro mil in blood (0.15 with a breathalyzer test) alcohol policy for drivers and police are very strict about this. The GIBDD has the right to check your blood alcohol level on the spot. 0.3 pro mil of alcohol is about one bottle of light beer, but remember that alcohol effect different people in a different way. The more well-grown the person is, the faster alcohol digests. So, you never know if you have exceeded the norm or not. It is better not risk.
Don't turn left or do a u-turn unless this is clearly specified. You must drive until the next U-turn sign, no matter how far it is, to turn around, then come back and make the right turn.
Don't ever cross a solid double white line - you can have your driving license revoked for several years for doing so.
Don't turn right on a red light - this is illegal in Russia.
Do not allow children under the age of 12 to travel in the front seat.
When approaching circulatories ("roundabouts") incoming traffic has priority over cars already on the circulatory, who must give way to them. This is a considerable difference to many other countries, so take note. |
|
|
|
|
| 78. | Visas :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Visas
One of the most immediate considerations a foreign national will face upon coming to Russia is compliance with Russia’s immigration system. This overview of the Russian immigration regulations sets out the procedures needed to be taken by a foreign individual, and his employer, to try to ensure that individual fulfils the requirements of the Russian legislation whilst he is visiting and/or working in Russia. However, the system is somewhat Byzantine in its complexity, and immigration regulations are evolving rapidly, both in technical terms and, more importantly, in how they are practically enacted. Hence, constant vigilance is required to keep abreast of the current status. There is significant risk in assuming that a process that has worked in the past will work again in the future, even where there are no formal technical changes to the regulations.
While it's become a lot easier to get a Russian visa, don't think your problems are over when you've received yours. If you make a false step while running the gauntlet of registration and (if necessary) getting a work permit, you face fines, hassles and maybe even arrest and deportation. This is why Expats who can afford to, take a more expensive, but far less stressful route: they use one of the many visa services. The agencies stay abreast of the changing rules and regulations and can cope with the bureaucracy, from start to finish.
Getting a Visa
First, plan ahead. It usually takes anywhere from four to six weeks to get a Russian visa, although it is technically possible to get one in as little as one day. To get a visa, you need first to get an invitation from a Russian organization. This can be a Russian firm, government organization, educational institution, or a representative office of a foreign firm. Some international hotels can also arrange a visa invitation. The invitation is issued through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA) in Moscow, which in turn either sends a telex to the specified Russian consulate abroad instructing that a visa be issued or gives you a invitation which you can then take into a Russian Consulate. Visa service organizations are in the business of issuing these invitations for a fee (which includes the fee paid to the MFA for processing the invitation). Keep in mind that the Russian consulate abroad also charges a fee, which is in addition to the fee you pay to the visa service company.
Once you're notified that your telex has arrived at the consulate, bring your passport, a completed visa application form, and the required fee (it varies from consulate to consulate). If you're applying for a multiple entry visa, you are officially required to present the results of an HIV test conducted during the preceding three months. Most Medical Centers in Moscow offer this service. The truth is that not all consulates bother to ask for one, but in case you are asked, it's better to be safe than sorry. The fees you pay for the issuance of the invitation and for the visa itself vary, depending on how quickly you want to receive the document.
Tourist visas are usually issued for one month, while the others are issued for anywhere from three months to one year. The short-term visas are almost always single entry-exit visas, while the longer-term visas usually allow you to make three trips into and out of Russia. Multiple-entry visas allow you to enter and leave the country as many times as you wish.
In some countries the Russian Consulate may have franchised-out the job of issuing visas to a specialized agency or computer-centre. In this case you can no longer apply directly to the Consulate, but must take your documents to this agency instead. In theory this is supposed to streamline the application process, but in practice no real improvements have been noticed. There will usually be Consular Officers of the Russian Federation working at the centre, supervising the clerical work done by the staff and resolving any procedural queries.
There are four main areas of compliance required for most foreign nationals and parties linked with them when coming to (and leaving) Russia. These are:
Visa;
Immigration card;
Enrollment;
Work permits/Residency permits.
TYPES OF VISAS
Basically, the type of Russian visa is determined by the individual's purpose of visit; this, in turn, governs the scope of activities that an expatriate may be engaged while in Russia under the certain type of visa.
Transit Visa
If your travel plans take you through Moscow on a connecting flight (or train) to another country, you are entitled to obtain a three-day transit visa. This will enable you to get out into the city instead of remaining in the transit hotel. You will need to evidence your journey at the Consulate with the actual air ticket (original - photocopies, itineraries, or email confirmations are not accepted). You can only obtain a transit visa if you are going via Moscow to somewhere else - a straight return ticket to/from Moscow would not be sufficient. Again, a visa agency or hosting organization can arrange this for you in advance, and will have someone meet you when you step off the plane. It is technically possible to obtain a transit visa when arriving at major airports, although in practice this is not so easy.
Business Visas
A business visa is foreseen for foreign nationals coming to Russia for business purposes, including participation in negotiations, conferences and consultations, making contracts and professional improvement. A business visa does not empower foreign individuals to hold official positions in Russian legal entities, represent them, or perform work in Russia under the civil or employment agreements. Importantly, business visas also cover some persons coming on “montage” or “chef-montage” activity, where they are helping put imported machinery into production or servicing it for the foreign vendor. Generally, business visas are issued based on invitations from Russian hosts and issued via Russian consulates outside Russia. The validity period of a single or a dual business visas is three months.
Multiple-entry business visas, like work visas, are valid for 12 months. However, these are restricted, so they only allow the foreign national to be present in Russia for no more than 90 days in any 180-day period. Once the visa expires, the foreign individual has to leave Russia, as business visas cannot be reissued in Russia. Russia has a number of immigration treaties, most notably with the EU (excluding the UK, Ireland and Denmark), which can extend the length of the validity of business visas up to five years.
Work Visas
A work visa is intended for foreign individuals coming in Russia to work or render services under an employment or a civil agreement respectively. By contrast with a business visa, a work visa allows an expatriate to occupy a position in the Russian company (or representative office or branch of a foreign company) indicated in the individual work permit and to act in an official capacity for this company. Initially, a single-entry work visa is issued by a consulate outside Russia for three months only based on the employer's invitation. The employer may further apply for an extended multiple-entry work visa upon expatriate’s arrival in Russia.
Foreign nationals are required to stay in Russia during the application process and issuance of the multiple entry work visa. The validity period of a work visa is linked to the validity period of the expatriate’s work permit (or accreditation card issued for accredited person working in a representative office or branch of a foreign company), but cannot exceed one year. If the employment agreement remains in force upon the visa's expiry, a new multiple-entry work visa can be obtained, provided that there is a new individual work permit.
Visa for "Inosotrudniki"
This is a special type of work visa issued for accredited expatriate employees of foreign companies operating in Russia through its representative offices or branches. In practice, this is an easier visa to obtain from an administrative perspective, as it separates the visa application from the work permit.
Family Visas
Spouses and children of relocating expatriates can apply for visas in the same way as the executive. An ‘Accompanying Spouse Visa’ and/or ‘Dependent’s Visa’ can be obtained at the same time as the expatriate applies for his/ her own visa. Talk with your HR department to make certain that this process is carried out at the same time as your visa application.
IMMIGRATION CARD
Upon arrival in Russia, each foreign national should complete and retain the stamped half of the immigration card. This card contains information about the arrival and departure of the individual in and from Russia, as well as the period of his or her stay in Russia. This document is delivered to each foreign citizen by the Russian border control authorities. The foreigner should keep the immigration card during his whole stay in Russia. If the immigration card is damaged or lost, the foreign national should notify the local immigration authorities within three days, and they may further issue a duplicate upon presenting the documents based on which the individual entered Russia (passport and visa, if applicable).
Upon departure from Russia, the foreign national should return the original immigration card at the Russian border control. Failure to return the immigration card is considered to be a violation and may lead to the formal deportation of a foreign individual from Russia. If deported, the individual will not be able to enter Russia for the next five years.
Registering your Immigration Card
The process for registering your immigration card will be exactly the same as it was for registering a visa. If you are staying in an apartment, you will need a notarized letter from your landlord
Once you've arrived in Russia, you are legally required to register within three working days (72 hours) with OVIR, the agency that registers foreigners in Russia. This is done a number of ways depending on where you will live while staying in Russia and whether your visa is multiple entry or not. If your visa is multiple-entry, you must register at the Central OVIR. Bring the original letter of invitation from your sponsoring organization, your migration card, passport, and a notarized letter from your landlord.
If you lived in a hotel during the first few days of your stay and then moved to a private residence, do not make the mistake of thinking you are registered. You still need to have your card registered at OVIR at your permanent address in Russia. And if that's not enough, you might need yet another letter if you've gotten your visa invitation from a foreign rep office. This will need to be a letter from the Russian organization that accredits the rep office.
For single and double entry visas, you can register simply by having your sponsoring organization stamp your migration card. You will need a Central OVIR registration as well, however, if you intend to marry in Russia or buy a car. If you are living only in a hotel during your stay, the hotel will register you. But count your stamps. Your card will be stamped once when you check in, and a second time when you check out. Some people think that the first stamp is sufficient. It is not. Most visa service companies will handle the OVIR registration process, saving you the wait in line.
What Happens if you Don't Register
You can be fined if you don't quite get your registration right and in some very rare cases can even be deported. And if you are found out at the airport, it can cost you several hundred dollars in fines not to mention the hassle of having to miss your flight and spend a couple of more days in Moscow to get an exit visa from Central OVIR.
ENROLMENT AND DE-ENROLMENT PROCEDURES
Enrolment is the process of notifying the immigration authorities of a foreign citizen’s whereabouts (international travel as well as internal trips within Russia). Upon arrival in Russia, each foreign national should be enrolled (registered) in the Russian migration system at his host location. Enrolment, as well as de-enrolment should be completed in respect of the foreign national by the hosting party: either by hotel, or by employer (visa sponsor), or landlord (whichever is applicable). In practice, most landlords are unwilling to perform this role.
This process is to be completed within 3 business days upon arrival, each time an individual arrives to the country or travels to another region within Russia for more than 3 business days. The de-enrolment process should be completed within 2 calendar days of the departure, every time a foreign national departs from Russia or leaves for another region within Russia for more than 3 business days. It is recommendable that the individual hold a copy of the enrolment/de-enrolment form while travelling in Russia or outside.
Further, as the fines for non-compliance with the enrolment requirement are rather high, each foreign employee will typically need to notify his or her employer on any trip within or out of the country, even if this is personal trip, so that the procedure can be carried out.
When your Visa Expires
Visas can be renewed for a week or two when they are expiring - long enough to allow you to finish what you're doing and leave the country. If your visa cannot be renewed you need to apply for a new one. This usually necessitates a trip out of the country, although some agencies do offer visas that don't require you to leave. As a rule the more established visa firms do not offer such services. Given the lead time to obtaining a new visa, allow at least one month between the time you apply for a new visa and the expiration of your current one. |
|
|
|
|
| 79. | Moscow-at-a-Glance::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Moscow-at-a-Glance
Moscow is a city of contrasts, and its fascinating history offers its inhabitants and guests a variety of adventures - business, economical, cultural, recreational and much more. Moscow is the capital of the largest European country and is situated in the heart of what is known as European Russia. Consequently, this capital city, being the epicenter of life for people of different nations and parts of the world, takes the best of east and west. Moscow has seen foreign invaders come and go. It was the capital when Mongol Tatars overran the Russian lands. The Crimean Tatars destroyed the fledgling city in 1751, as did Poles in the 17th century. During the war with Napoleon, three-quarters of the city was burned in the wake of the French occupation - but as a result, a stately Empire-era city arose in its place, still studded with the remains of the city's medieval splendour. Two further upheavals have helped shape the city's extraordinary appearance - the wave of "suprematist" monumental architecture undertaken during the "boom" period of the Communist era, and the corresponding oil-funded "rebuilding boom" that followed the fall of Communism, and continues today.
The City's Name
Moscow was named after the Moskva River (in Russian the name of the city is pronounced as "Mosk-va"). The origin of the name itself is unknown, although several theories exist. One of the theories suggests that the name originates from the ancient Finnic language, in which it means "dark" or "turbid". Yet another theory tells that the name comes from the ancient Slav language and means simply "wet". Either way, the etymology of the word is related to water.
Geographic Area & Size
The size of the city is about 1100 sq.km (425 sq.mi), with the central part of the city - over 800 sq.km (309 sq.mi) situated inside the Moscow Outer Ring Road.
Location, Streetplan, and Arterial Road Scheme
Moscow is located directly at the centre of European Russia at the northwest segment of Russia's most densely developed and populated region. The Moskva River crosses through the middle of the city and is itself a tributary of the Volga River.
Like the cross-section of a tree with its yearly rings, Moscow has grown outward from the Kremlin since the 12th century. There are five concentric "rings" that shape the city's streetplan - the most central being the former moat of the Kremlin, Moscow's medieval citadel. Beyond the Kremlin, the oldest ring is the Boulevard Ring Road; closest to the center, it contains the Kremlin within it, and the oldest part of the city. The Boulevard Ring is not a complete ring, but more a horseshoe shape with both ends terminating at the Moskva River. A middle ring road, the Garden Ring (Sadovoe Kol'tso) forms a closed circle around the downtown areas - a massive 6/8-lane highway that carries the huge bulk of Moscow's traffic, and at rush-hours becomes a gigantic circular stationary gridlock of frustrated motorists.
The city's Outer Ring Road ("MKAD" - the Moscow Circular Car Road) diverts intra-national traffic away from the city centre and was intended as a "city boundary for the 21st century" - but the city keeps expanding and some new settlements that are located outside of the MKAD also count as Moscow. The MKAD is located about 28 km (7.4 mi) from the city center and is 100 km (62 mi) long. The newest ring is called the Third Ring Road, once again forming a circle, running between the MKAD and the Garden Ring, conveniently connecting some of the densely populated but not so central parts of Moscow. Most of the Third Ring Road is built as a flyover.
Population:
Moscow city: 10.5 million (as of July 01, 2009)
Moscow region: 6.7 million (as of January 01, 2010)
The official population of Moscow slightly exceeds 10 million, but as in so many other world cities, the actual number of the population is much bigger. The whole Moscow conurbation is probably home to nearer 15 million - the discrepancy is due to official "city limits" that fail to encompass the new housing estates on the outskirts; former suburban towns which have effectively been "swallowed" by city-creep; and a huge unrecorded transient population of visitors, short-term visitors, migrant and seasonal workers, "unofficials", semi-legals and illegal immigrants, on whom there are no official stats.
The vast majority of Muscovites are ethnically and culturally Russians - well over 80%. As the country's most affluent city (unofficial estimates claim that 80% of the country's wealth is in Moscow) it is a magnet for newcomers wanting to further their careers and get the high-paying jobs on offer - many of the Russians living in Moscow have moved here from elsewhere in the country, and "native Muscovites" have a certain pride about having been born in the city.
Moscow is home to many other nationalities, especially Armenians, Georgians, Asiatic Siberians, people from the Caucasus regions and many others whose families migrated to the capital during the Soviet era, when it was all just one large country. Their cultures and languages, and especially their cuisines are all part of the rich melting-pot of Moscow life. Native-born Muscovites often have a pronounced local accent which marks them out, and which is frequently the butt of jokes made about the capital's population throughout the rest of the country.
It ought to be mentioned that there is no great love for Moscow among many Russians from other cities - who habitually associate the city with the imagined misrule and economic inequalities they blame on Moscow and its rulers. In fact, this is a historical tendency - exactly the same was said of St. Petersburg when it was the capital in the 19th century.
Climate
Moscow has a humid continental climate. The average temperature of the year is 5.4 degrees Celsius (°C), with an average temperature of -9°C in January and +18°C in July. Moscow's climate really consists of two extreme seasons: winter and summer. Spring and fall are often negligibly short.
Average temperatures are based on 30 years observation period. Table values are in degrees Celsius (°C). T,°C
Monthly average
Variations Jan
-10
-10...-9 |
|
|
|
|
| 80. | National Holidays & Celebrations::Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Russian Holidays
January 1: New Year
January 7: Russian Orthodox Christmas
February 23: Defenders of the Fatherland Day
March 8: International Women's Day
May 1: Holiday of Spring and Labour
May 9: Victory Day
June 12: Day of Russia
November 4: National Unity Day
Non-Working Days in 2024
New Year and Christmas holidays: January 1-8, December 29-31
Defenders of the Fatherland Day: February 23-25
International Women's Day: March 8-10
Holiday of Spring and Labour: April 28 - May 1
Victory Day: May 9-12
Day of Russia: June 12
National Unity Day: November 3-4
Russians love to celebrate and take most of their national holidays very seriously. New Year is the most widely celebrated holiday, followed by Orthodox Easter (which is not an official holiday), and Orthodox Christmas. Remember, though, that over 100 ethnic groups live on the territory of the Russian Federation and that each of them has their own colourful holidays and celebrations. Western holiday and festivals, such as Valentine's Day and Halloween are also gaining popularity in Russia, although they are not marked by days off work. When National Holidays fall over weekend dates, one or more adjacent weekdays will usually be declared as Public Holiday(s) - but the decision on which days is often not announced until a month beforehand. Shops and supermarkets don't usually observe any National Holidays except New Year's Eve, however.
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
New Year
The biggest Russian holiday is New Year and is celebrated on the night of December 31st to January 1st. Many Russians have what foreigners usually call a "Christmas tree" for New Year (either a real tree or an artificial). The tree is called a "yolka" in Russian. You may buy trees outside of metro stations at a so-called Christmas tree bazaar, at IKEA (natural fur tree), the Detsky Mir shopping center and many other places across town. At midnight, the President's New Year speech is broadcast on all national TV channels, preceded by lot of musical shows and followed by show-biz variety programming until morning. Most Russians exchange gifts on New Year's Eve. This means that you will be purchasing New Year's gifts for your Russian friends - instead of Christmas gifts. Celebrations on the night of December 31st continue until the early morning of January 1st. January 3rd, 4th and 5th are public/bank holidays. In combination with January 1st and 2nd and January 7th, Russia enjoys an entire holiday week at the start of the New Year.
As this holiday is children's favourite, special shows for children called "yolki" are organized throughout town in the weeks around December 31st. On New Year's Eve, some parents hire a Grandfather Frost or "Ded Moroz" and his assistant Snow-Maiden or "Snegurochka" to visit their homes to deliver previously purchased gifts to the children. The way this usually works is that Snegurochka arrives first, preparing the children for the arrival of Ded Moroz. The children then call for Ded Moroz, who arrives with a bag full of gifts. The children only get their gifts after singing a song or reciting a poem for Ded Moroz or after solving one of his riddles. If you want to order such a service for your children, make sure to place your order in advance.
Normal service is suspended in most restaurants and cafes on the evening of 31st December, and you can only get a table that evening by pre-booking (often several weeks before) and by pre-buying a "ticket" for their New Year's Eve programme - which includes a multi-course meal (usually a set menu), drinks and live entertainment. The prices often bear no resemblance to the usual prices on any other day of the year, but there is intense demand nonetheless - book ahead or go hungry. Those not inclined to spend their New Year's Eve this way often choose to gather in the city's larger open public spaces - Red Square, Poklannaya Gora, etc. - and celebrate in impromptu street parties - these can often be packed too, and in recent years police have limited crowds in Red Square in the interests of public safety, so go early.
Russian Orthodox Christmas
January 7th is Russian Orthodox Christmas. After Easter this is the biggest Christian religious holiday. It is traditionally celebrated at home - families and friends will gather on the evening of 6th January, to mark the festival's arrival at midnight.
Defenders of the Fatherland Day
February 23rd is non-official Men's Day. This public holiday is officially called "Defenders of the Fatherland Day". All men in Russia are liable for call-up to military service, so they all consider themselves celebrities to a certain extent. On this day women usually give men small gifts.
International Women's Day
International Women's Day is celebrated on March 8th. In 1910, German socialist Klara Zetkin proposed an International Women's Day. Instead of men treating women nicely, the women went on strike and marched through the streets. On March 8th 1917 Klara Zetkin and her Russian counterpart Alexandra Kollontai, held a women's strike "for bread and peace" in St. Petersburg. This was soon followed by a general strike that triggered the March Revolution which brought down Tsar Nikolai II. Today the holiday has lost its political significance and has become popular for other reasons. Men are supposed to give women gifts on March 8th. They are also supposed to do all the housework on this day - at least in theory. Gift-giving to female colleagues and co-workers is considered largely obligatory.
May Day - Holiday of Spring and Labour
May 1st is the Holiday of Spring and Labour. During Soviet times, huge demonstrations were staged on this day, and everyone was obliged to show their loyalty to the state. (It's widely, but wrongly, thought that May Day in Russia is the day with the big parades, but in fact these come on May 9th - see below).
Victory Day
May 9th is Victory Day. This is the day on which Nazi Germany capitulated in 1945 after the war with the Soviet Union and other countries. A minute of silence is announced on Central TV in memory of the deceased at 21:00 and fireworks are held thereafter. Large May Day parades are held each year, but, for most part, they are not open to the public - instead grandstand places are by VIP invitation. The public can then watch the Parade as it leads away through the city. Usually the entire city center in Moscow is closed to traffic. The best place for non-VIPs to view the Moscow Parade is the section of Tverskaya nearest to Red Square - go early to grab a place. The holiday continues all day with open-air music, street events, and culminates in an enormous firework display, usually at 22:00. (In the rest of Europe, this day is usually called "V-E Day"; "Victory in Europe Day" and is marked on May 8th. Russia celebrates on May 9th because due to the time-difference between Moscow and Berlin, the late-night announcement occurred in the early hours of May 9th by local time in Moscow. The USSR remained engaged in military conflict after May 9th 1945, playing a crucial role against Japan - but Russian military historians name the subsequent hostilities "The Eastern War", and consider that WW2 ended on May 9th for the Soviet Forces.) In contrast the sombre Ceremonies of Rememberance in Western Europe, Russia celebrates May 9th as a huge victory and celebration - this may come as a surprise to foreigners. The Parade crowd can usually be heard chanting "spa-see-bo!" ("thank you!") to the ranks of veterans as they pass.
"The May Holidays"
The fortunate proximity of the May 1st and May 9th holidays above - especially if they fall luckily over weekends - offers many Russians the chance to take an entire week off work whilst only using 1-2 of their days of annual holiday allowance - and over a week usually associated with nice spring weather. This prompts a huge burst of vacationing both in Russia and abroad, and travel prices over this week can be extortionately more expensive than in the adjacent weeks - flights to popular destinations will usually sell out long in advance. Getting any kind of paperwork processed in a Govt organisation over this period usually comes to a dismal standstill.
Day of Russia
June 12th is Day of Russia, also referred to as Independence Day. This became an official holiday in 1994. No particular traditions or festivals are associated with this day.
National Unity Day
November 4th is National Unity Day. This new holiday was introduced in 2005. It replaces the Day of Accord and Reconciliation formerly called the Day of the October Revolution, which was traditionally celebrated on November 7th.
CELEBRATIONS WHICH ARE NOT DAYS OFF
City Days
Every city in Russia has its own City Day, usually celebrated on a date associated with some happy occasion for the city in question - each city has the right to choose its own date. There is usually some kind of parade, open-air music and merry-making, and a firework display after dusk. Some cities have unusual or unique events linked to the date in question - Moscow, for example, has a recreation of the Battle of Borodino, a turning-point in the war against Napoleon, whilst St. Petersburg has a naval display.
"Catholic Christmas"
Although much of the rest of the world is celebrating Christmas on 25th December, the Russian Church calendar dates Christmas as 7th January (see above, "Orthodox Christmas"). Russians name 25th December as "Catholic Christmas" (even though other faiths are also celebrating too) but it is not a public holiday in Russia. Believers often go to their own church services, and these can be the centre of some expat social life too. Bear in mind that branch offices of non-Russian companies (including airlines) may close in any case on 25th -26th December, or operate an emergencies-only service. Since many Russians choose to go away for the New Year holiday, the 25th-26th December closure of foreign Consulates for Christmas adds to the difficulty of getting visas for the great New Year getaway for some. Some expats feel somewhat deflated that 99% of Russia doesn't even realize that 25th December is a major holiday elsewhere - you may want to make your own plans, and nightspots and restaurants catering to foreigners will often have parties anyhow. The good news is that getting a table and paying the regular prices are no problem at all on December 25th, which is "just another working day" in Russia.
Old New Year
The Old New Year is celebrated by many on January 13th. Before the revolution of February 1918, Russians used a different calendar. The difference between the Julian (European) calendar was 13 days. After the Soviet government adopted the Gregorian calendar, Russians started to celebrate many holidays twice: once according to the old style, but with many still choosing to celebrate on the day when the holiday would have fallen prior to the Calendar Reform... the "old" New Year.
Maslenitsa (Whitsun)
It is a traditional Russian spring celebration also referred to as "Pancake Week" or "Butter week". It comes right before the seven-week Orthodox Lent. The word "maslenitsa" refers to the Russian word "maslo" meaning "butter". It refers to the fact that numerous different foods, including butter, cream and other fats, had to be used-up before the start of the seven-week Orthodox Lenten Fast. Many Russians - not only believers - will observe this Fast, and eat an entirely vegan diet - most cafes will offer an alternative Lenten Menu. Originally a pagan holiday celebrating the end of winter and the beginning of spring, pancakes were baked as a form of worship of the life-giving sun. Today this colourful celebration is once again gaining popularity, and numerous celebrations are held during this week.
Easter
Right after Maslenitsa comes the seven-week Lent leading right up to Easter. Orthodox Russians who take this fasting period very seriously will not consume any milk, eggs, or meat, with fish being eaten only on special occasions. Believers attend a very long and elaborate midnight church service that starts on the evening before Easter Sunday. The traditional greeting, if translated from Russian, says "Christ had risen from the dead/is alive". The reply to this is always "He has truly risen from the dead/is truly alive." Special round-shaped sweet Easter cakes are baked. Around Easter these cakes (called "kulich") are on sale in nearly every bakery and supermarket bread section. Eggs are coloured, with a red egg being considered the symbol of Easter. The red colour is achieved boiling the eggs with beets. To colour eggs yellow, boil them in onion husks.
April Fool's Day
April 1st is Fool's Day, literally meaning Day of Laughter. This is a day of fun and laughter but not a public holiday. People tell jokes to each other and newspapers and TV publish/run funny stories and jokes. The motto of this day is "Don't trust anyone on April 1st". |
|
|
|
|
| 81. | Russian Alphabet & Pronunciation :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Russian Alphabet & Pronunciation
The Russian language is a member of the Slavic group of the Indo-European family of languages. Other languages belonging to this group are Belarussian, Bulgarian, Czech, Macedonian, Polish, Serbo-Croatian, Slovak, Slovenian and Ukrainian.
The principal language of administration in the former Soviet Union, Russian is spoken by about 170 million people as a first language. It is used by an estimated additional 100 million as a second language in the countries of the Commonwealth of Independent State and of European Europe. Because of its large number of speakers and its leading position in the former Soviet Union, Russian is one of the chief languages of the world. Used officially by the United Nations, it is important in scientific writing as well. The great literature works written in Russian also have made the language culturally significant.
The Russian language uses the Cyrillic alphabet. The Cyrillic alphabet has augmented from Greek uncial script, using the older Glagolitic alphabet for sounds not available in the Greek language. Cyrillic and Glagolitic were invented by Greek brothers Saints Cyril and Methodius. It was considered that while Cyril may have enhanced Glagolitic, his students, possibly from the first literary school in the medieval Bulgarian Empire (Preslav Literary School), developed Cyrillic from Greek during the 890s as a more suitable script for church books.
Historical Development of Russian
The historical development of Russian is not easy to trace because until the 17th century the religious and cultural language of the Russian people was not Russian but Church Slavic. However, within Russia the latter language became sufficiently altered by the vocabulary and pronunciation of spoken Russian to be transformed into a Russian form of Church Slavic adapted to Russian needs. The earliest existing document containing Russian elements is and Old Church Slavonic text from the 11th century.
When Peter the Great undertook to westernize Russian in the early 18th century, the Russian language was subjected to Western influences and absorbed a number of foreign words. Peter was the first to reform and simplify the Cyrillic alphabet used for Russian.
In the late 18th and 19th century, partly as a result of the work of the great Russian writer Alexander Pushkin, the Russians succeeded in throwing off the dominance of Church Slavic and developing their own tongue into a literary language, which was, nevertheless, influenced and even enriched by the Church Slavic legacy.
Literary Russian is based on the dialect used in and round the city of Moscow, which became the leading cultural center. Extensive reforms, aimed at simplifying and standardizing Russian writing and grammar, took place after the Revolution of 1917.
Cyrillic Alphabet
The Cyrillic alphabet became increasingly widespread over the 12th century. During the next ten centuries the Cyrillic alphabet was adapted because of changes with spoken language developing regional variations. You can find languages across Eastern Europe and Asia written using the Cyrillic alphabet.
The Russian alphabet consists of 33 letters, 11 vowels, 20 consonants and 2 letters which do not have a sound (instead they make the word harder or softer). It is not that easy to master Russian pronunciation because the accent is free, i.e., it can be placed on any syllable. Thus, there are no set rules for stress. The accent of each word has to be learned separately. In fact, the position of the accent on a given word may vary as the word's case and number change when it is inflected. Some words that are spelled alike are distinguished only by a different stress. In addition, no significant differentiation is made between long and short vowels.
Grammatically, Russian is highly inflected. The noun has six cases with an occasional seventh case, the vocative. There are three declensional schemes and three genders. Although the verb has only three tenses, it is enabled by a feature called aspect to express numerous subtle shades of meaning, some of which cannot be rendered in other languages. In addition, The Russian verb has five moods and four voices.
Slang
Russian is a very rich language with a very large number of slang words and expressions. New words and expressions appear on a constant basis with many being derived from the English language.
Teenagers have their very own slang, as do members of various professions. If you are going to work in an office environment, you will hear a lot of words that sound English but aren't. If you want to understand more of what people and teenagers talk about, ask your Russian teacher for help.
Many teachers are reluctant to teach slang (not to mention swear words), but you can always turn to your Russian colleagues and friends for explanations and translations of words and expressions. When learning and using slang, remember that there are many shades of politeness, not-so-politeness and rudeness. |
|
|
|
|
| 82. | Parks & Estates:: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Parks & Estates
There are ninety-six parks and eighteen gardens in Moscow, including four botanical gardens. There are also 450 sq.km (174 sq.mi) of green zones besides 100 sq.km (39 sq.mi) of forests. Moscow is a very green city if compared to other cities of comparable size in Western Europe and America. There are on average twenty seven square meters (290 sq.ft) of parks per person in Moscow compared with 6 for Paris, 7.5 in London and 8.6 in New York.
Moscow has many large and pleasant parks. Some are plain parks, others have ponds or beaches and yet others contain old palaces/estates or other places of interest. Some are great for hiking, cycling, rollerblading and/or cross-country skiing. Most parks are open daily from sunrise to sunset. Note that most neighborhoods also have smaller local parks, some of which have playgrounds.
PARKS
Aleksandrovsky Sad (Garden)
The capital's most central park runs along the Kremlin's western walls. Aleksandrovsky Sad is directly accessible from the metro station bearing the same name. Picturesque gardens with shady trees and broad lanes were designed and set up in 1821 by O. Bove, one of the chief architects of Moscow, who reconstructed the city after the Great Fire of 1812. First called the Kremlin Gardens, they changed the name in 1856 after the crowning of Alexander II. On the central square of the gardens you can see the "Ruines" grotto, a peculiar memorial of the revival of Moscow after the devastation in 1812. It contains the Grave of the Unknown Soldier and the Eternal Flame, where you can watch the hourly changing of the guards. To get to the garden, take the metro to the station Aleksandrovsky Sad; it is also just a 3 minute walk from the metros Teatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad, Ploshchad Revolutsii, and a 5 minute walk from Borovitskaya.
Metro: Aleksandrovsky Sad
All-Russia Exhibition Center (VVTs - formerly called VDNKh)
This huge exhibition center and park containing samples of monumental Soviet architecture and oversized statues was established in 1937. There are over 80 pavilions that used to display communism's latest achievements in science, agriculture, industry, and technology. Most pavilions have been turned into miniature shopping centers, but some still function as exhibits, for example the "Sadovodstvo" (Gardening) pavilion. Do not miss the impressive Fountain of People's Friendship (Fontan Druzhby Narodov) right in the center of the park. It consists of 15 gold-covered statues representing all 15 republics of the former Soviet Union. There is also a Museum of Astronautics; that is definitely what Soviet Union had reasons to be proud of. There are many legendary objects on display including first ever astronauts - stuffed dogs Belka and Strelka. The museum is located in the monument to the Explorers of Space. And, of course, recently restored Vera Mukhina's 24.5 meter (80 ft.) "Worker and Kolkhoznitsa" monument is a must-see sculpture. The VVTs features Russia's biggest Ferris wheel and many other attractions. When you get tired of wandering around this seemingly endless territory, you can sit down to enjoy a shashlik or plov at one of the many outdoor and indoor cafes. To get to the exhibition center, just take the metro to the station VDNKh - VVTs is a 3 minute walk from the metro.
Open: 08:00 - 22:00 (summer); 09:00 - 19:00 (winter)
Metro: VDNKh
Tel: +7 495 544-3400
Web: www.vvcentre.ru
Aptekarsky Ogorod (Apothecary's Garden)
This is Moscow State University's (MGU's) oldest botanical garden (founded in 1706 by a decree from Peter the Great). You can also visit the greenhouse and laboratory. To get to the garden, take the metro to the station Prospekt Mira, take a short walk along Prospekt Mira and turn to Grokholsky pereulok, the entrance to the garden is just a 1 minute walk after the turn. The entry price of 300 RUR. For children under school age the entry is free.
Open: 10:00 - 18:00 (winter); 10:00 - 21:00 (summer)
Address: Prospekt Mira, 26
Metro: Prospekt Mira
Tel: +7 495 680-6765 / 7222 / 5880
Excursions: +7 967 2089878 (10:00 - 18:00, 11:00 - 16:00)
Web: www.hortus.ru
Bitsevsky Les
This is a large park and silver birch forest in the south of Moscow. It has two ponds with beaches, and although swimming is not recommended, you can still enjoy the beach atmosphere. The park also features volleyball, basketball, and badminton courts; and you can hire a rowboat, paddleboat, or bike. Further into the forest there is an equestrian center. Great for sledding in winter. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Novoyasenevskaya (the park is just next to the station); the park is also accessible from the metro station Ulitsa Akademika Yangelya - once out of the metro, walk along Akademika Yangelya ulitsa for about 1 mile or take bus 680, 118 or minibus 566M to the station "Ulitsa Akademika Yangelya", then take a 3-4 minute walk to the park.
Address: Novoyasenevskiy tupik, 1
Metro: Novoyasenevskaya, Ulitsa Akademika Yangelya
Tel: +7 495 426-0022, +7 499 739-2705/07/08
Web: www.gpbuuc.ru
Botanichesky Sad (Botanical Garden)
Rose garden, arboretum with exotic trees and bushes, greenhouse with orchids, lilies and lotuses, Japanese Garden. Founded in 1945. To get to the garden, take the metro to the station Vladykino, once out of the metro, walk for about 200 meters (0.12 mi) to the main entrance. The garden is also accessible from the metro VDNKh - take trolleybus 73, 36 to the station "Botanicheskaya ulitsa 33", or minibus 324M to the station "Glavny Vkhod Botanicheskogo Sada".
Open: 10:00 - 20:00 (garden summer only, except Mon, Thu); 10:00 - 16:00 (hothouse except Thu, Sat, Sun)
Address: Botanicheskaya ul., 4
Metro: Vladykino
Tel: +7 499 977-9145
Web: www.gbsad.ru
Bulvarnoe Koltso (Boulevard Ring)
Bulvarnoe Koltso is comprised of the following streets: Gogolevsky Bulvar, Tverskoy Bulvar, Strastnoy Bulvar, Petrovsky Bulvar, Rozhdestvensky Bulvar, and Sretensky Bulvar. It forms a semi-circle around the center of Moscow and is ideal for leisurely strolls. A walk along the boulevard ring's park-like areas is a great way to explore the city center, undisturbed by traffic. The park strip is situated in the middle of the road, in-between traffic lanes. Scores of beautiful old buildings are located along this route (and down the side streets leading off Bulvarnoe Koltso), and there are plenty of benches to sit and relax on along the way. It is also well worth venturing into some of the side streets branching off from the ring - you will find lots of pretty lanes with interesting buildings there.
Metros: Kropotkinskaya, Chistye Prudy, Turgenevskaya, Tsvetnoy Bulvar, Pushkinskaya
Ekaterininskiy Park
Pond with ducks and boat rentals, tennis courts, the House of Culture, the Museum of the Soviet army with planes and military equipment and much more. Nearby there is a health center for veterans. Playgrounds are concentrated in the side. Amongst playgrounds there is a large-scale concreted area for bicycles, scooters and roller skates.
Open: 06:00 - 23:00 (summer), 09:00 - 17:00 (winter)
Address: Bolshaya Ekaterininskaya ul., 27
Metro: Prospekt Mira
Tel: +7 495 600-6460 / 6391
Web: www.ek-park.ru
Fili
Great park for walking, hiking, and cycling. The famous Gorbushka shopping center is located right outside metro Bagrationovskaya. Centrally-located Filyovsky Park runs along the banks of Moscow River and covers 266.6 hectares with 90% of it being perfectly green area. Once it was the estate of Naryshkiny noble family that owned the estate for 175 year. The restored palace of the 18th century is a beautiful reminder of those days. Filyovsky Park is a great place for both quiet contemplation of nature and active recreation. Different parts of the park are accessible from 4 metro stations: your options are to take the metro to the station Bagrationovskaya, once out of the metro walk for about 450 meters (0.3 mi) to the park along Barklaya ulitsa, or to choose the metro station Filyovsky park and a 0.3 mile walk along Minskaya ulitsa, or you can take the metro to the station Pionerskaya and walk for about 250 meters (0.16 mi) along Polosukhina ulitsa, and finally you can come to the metro station Kuntsevskaya and walk for about 600 meters (0.4 mi) along Rublevskoe shosse (duplicate).
Adress: Bolshaya Filevskaya ul., 22
Metro: Bagrationovskaya, Filyovsky Park, Pionerskaya, Kuntsevskaya
Tel: +7 499 145-5155 / 0000
Web: www.parkfili.com
Goncharovskiy Park
There are four playgrounds, fitness and dance floor, a stage for the holidays. The central object which attracts visitors here, is the place for squirrels. A renewed outdoor furniture and free wi-fi make this park convenient not only for recreation but also work.
Address: Rustaveli ul.
Metros: Timiryazevskaya, Dmitrovskaya
Open: 07:00 - 23:00
Tel: +7 499 908-3500
Web:www.liapark.ru
Gorky Park
Moscow's most famous park runs along the banks of the Moscow River. Gorky Park is truly one of the most popular places for families to spend their week-end. Numerous fairground attractions such as the Big Wheel, switchback (for unknown reason known in Russia as American Hills), swirling see-saw make children's heads go round of joy while their parents are screaming of fear. There are also horses, boats to hire and caf?s. An ice-skating rink operates in winter. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Park Kultury and cross the bridge over the Moscow River, or take the metro to the station Oktyabrskaya and walk for about 400 meters (0.2 mi) along Krymsky Val ulitsa.
Open: 24/7
Address: Krymsky Val ul., 9
Metro: Oktyabrskaya, Park Kultury
Tel: +7 495 995-0020 # 6
Web: www.park-gorkogo.com/en/
Hermitage Garden
Three theatres are located inside this very centrally located park - the Hermitage Theatre, the Novaya Opera, and the Sfera. Outdoor dancing hall and several open-air cafes. Lots of flowers and benches, alleys and the fountain create a special atmosphere of peace and quiet. To get to the garden, take the metro to the stations Chekhovskaya, Tverskaya, or Pushkinskaya and then walk along Malaya Dmitrovka ulitsa and turn right to Uspensky pereulok.
Open: 24/7
Address: Karetny Ryad ul., 3, str. 7
Metro: Chekhovskaya, Tverskaya, Pushkinskaya
Tel: +7 495 699-0849 / 0432
Web: www.mosgorsad.ru
Izmailovsky Park
Izmallovsky Park consists of a vast area of parkland (over 1500 hectares) and a large forest consisting of pine trees, birch woods, and ponds. It is 6 times larger then the central park in New York. This is where the Russian tsars once had their summer estates and hunting grounds. Other attractions include a large skating rink in winter. The park is great for family picnics in summer. It is located adjacent to Izmailovsky Vernisazh - Moscow's famous outdoor souvenir market. The park also features a wide variety of attractions for children. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Partizanskaya (the park is just next to the station) or take the metro to the station Shosse Entuziastov, once out of the metro, take a 3 minute walk along Elektrodny proezd.
Address: Alleya bolshogo kruga, 7/A
Metro: Partizanskaya, Shosse Entuziastov
Tel: +7 499 166-6119
Web: www.izmailovsky-park.ru
Khamovniki Park
Khamovniki is one of the greenest and most picturesque areas of Moscow. Here is park named Mandelstam, another name is the Estate of the Trubetskoy family in Khamovniki - well-kept green area with a playground, pond, tennis courts and an aviary for protein. Park "Novodevichy ponds" is nearby, the sport and recreation complex "Luzhniki" and the famous Neskuchny Sad (Garden) are along the bordering area of the Moskva River.
Open: 09:00 - 21:00
Address: Usacheba ul., 1A
Metro: Frunzenskaya
Tel: +7 495 637-0048
Web: www.okdit.mskobr.ru
Krasnaya Presnya Park
Open: 09:00 – 22:00
Address: Mantulinskaya ul., 5
Metro: 1905 Goda, Vustavochnaya
Web: p-kp.ru
Krylatskie Hills
Located in the West of Moscow in one of the capital's few ecologically clean areas, this park has grassy slopes that are great for cross-country skiing and sledding in winter. Good hiking trails and a challenging cycling track are ideal for summer sports. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Krylatskoye and take a 5 minute walk from the metro to the park.
Metro: Krylatskoye
Kuzminki – Lyublino
The park is located in Kuzminki Estate which traces its history from 1702. Muscovites call Kuzminki Estate "the Russian Versal"; this wonderful architectural ensemble was created by celebrated architects Matvey Kozakov, Vasily Bazhenov and the Gilyardi family. Church of the Vlakhernskaya Virgin is an outstanding architectural masterpiece. In winter you can ride a dog team here or take part in the traditional Russian amusements; in summer you can make a bike-excursion about the estate or sail over the Kuzminki ponds and watch splendid flowerbeds planted for the flower festival. You can also rent the picnic area or picnic point.
Address: Kuzminskaya ul., 10
Metro: Kuzminki
Tel: +7 495 258-4560, +7 495 377-3593
Web: www.kuzpark.ru
Losiny Ostrov
Russia's first national park used to be the nobility's favorite hunting ground. Some wild animals including moose, wild boar, and beavers still live here. There are three ponds with different kinds of fish. The park is also great for hiking. "Los" in Russian means "elk", and there are many elks in the park indeed. The visitors may watch them in their natural habitat. Excursions in English are available. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Shchelkovskaya, once out of the metro take trolleybus 23, or minibus 583, or bus 257 to the station "Uralskaya ulitsa 19", and then take a short walk to reach the park.
Address: Poperechniy prosek, 1G
Metro: Shchelkovskaya
Tel: +7 499 268-6045
Excursions: +7 903 7445855
Web: www.elkisland.ru
Milutinskiy Park (Garden)
Cozy courtyard is like old pictures. Roundabouts, sandboxes, playgrounds and wooden houses. The Center of aesthetic education is located in the houses where there are dozens of different clubs for children from 5 to 18 years.
Open: 07:00 - 21:30
Address: Pokrovskiy bulvar, 10, entrance from Khokhlovsky pereulok
Metro: Chistye Prudy
Tel: +7 495 917-9013
Moskovsky Park Iskusstv "Museon" (Moscow Park of Arts)
Founded in 1993, this open-air sculpture museum has a collection of over 700 sculptures. Here you will find many Soviet-era monuments that were removed from their pedestals in Moscow's squares and parks after 1991, including the controversial statute of the Soviet Union's first KGB chief Felix Dzerzhinsky that used to stand right in the middle of Lubyanskaya Ploshchad in the city center. The park is located next to the Central House of Artists, across the road from Gorky Park. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Park Kultury and cross the bridge over the Moscow River, or take the metro to the station Oktyabrskaya and walk for about 400 meters (0.2 mi) along Krymsky Val ulitsa.
Open: 24/7
Address: Krymsky Val, 10
Metro: Oktyabrskaya, Park Kultury
Tel: +7 495 995-0020 # 6
Web: www.park-gorkogo.com
Neskuchny Sad (Garden)
This garden consists of terraces sloping down to the Moscow River and provides scenic hiking trails. It houses a wooden playground, an open-air theater, and plenty of benches. The name of the park translates as "Never Boring Garden." Once a noble estate, it is one of the oldest parks in Moscow. In the 18th century there were three mansions which belonged to Prince Trubetskoy. All that is left is part of the park and a "Hunters' house". In the middle of the 19th century a new owner, Prokofy Demidov, built a palace here. Originally it was designed in Baroque Style, rebuilt in the time of Classicism and its interiors are typical for the Empire Style. Here on the bank of the Moscow-river one of the largest in Europe Botanic gardens appeared; among its trees several historical objects are found today: the house of Count Orlov (1796), a vaulted bridge, and the house with rotunda. You can get to this park either through Gorky Park or take the metro to the station Leninsky Prospekt and take a 2 minute walk to reach the park.
Metro: Leninsky Prospekt, Oktyabrskaya, Park Kultury
Tel: +7 495 995-0020 # 6
Web: www.park-gorkogo.com
Park of the 50th Anniversary of October
This densely wooded and impressive size park is the ideal place for picnics. Playgrounds are basic. No attractions. The cafe "Central Park" with friendly staff and tasty sandwiches works at the entrance to the park.
Adress: Udaltsova ul., 22A
Metro: Prospekt Vernadskogo
Park Pobedy (Victory Park)
This huge park, also referred to as Poklonnaya Gora was established in 1995 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Soviet Union's World Two victory over Nazi Germany. Once it was a hill where all important guests of the capital were met with a bow ("poklon" means a bow). It contains the Central Museum of the Great Patriotic War, an art gallery, the Cathedral of the Great Martyr Georg, a mosque and a synagogue erected in memory of those Muslims and Jews who have perished in the horror of the war. Moscow famous sculptor Zurab Tsereteli has placed here one of his most monumental masterpieces: the statue of St. Georg spearing the dragon. Another thing that attracts visitors is the chain of fountains illuminated in bloody red in the evening; this symbolizes the floods of blood shed by Soviet soldiers. Skateboarders love to use perfectly smooth marble surface for their exercises. On May 9th (Victory Day), Muscovites gather here to celebrate the triumph over Nazi Germany. The park is great for walking, rollerblading, skateboarding, or reading a book. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Park Pobedy, the park is just next to the station.
Open: 10:00 - 18:00 (museum Tue-Sun)
Address: Bratiev Fonchenko ul., 7, Poklonnaya Gora
Metro: Park Pobedy
Tel: +7 499 148-8300
Web: www. poklonnaya-gora.ru
Perovskiy Park
Address: Lazo ul., 7
Metro: Perovo
Tel: +7 495 309-5342
Fax: +7 495 309-5163
Web: www.perovskiy-park.ru
Pokrovskoe-Streshnevo Park
Pokrovsky-Streshnevo is the former family estate near Moscow with an adjacent park.
Address: Ac. Kurchatova ul.
Metro: Shchukinskaya
Presnenskiy Park
The park with modern playgrounds, chess town, a sports complex and flowerbeds. The unique fairy-tale characters will not leave anyone indifferent!
Open: 07:00 - 22:00
Address: Druzhinnikovskaya ul., 9, str. 2
Metros Krasnopresnenskaya, Barrikadnaya
Serebryanny Bor (Silver Pine Forest)
This is a huge forest and park area that contains Moscow's most popular beaches. It features changing rooms, clean sand, beach volleyball areas, and boat, scooter and paddleboat rental. There are plenty of outdoor cafes and ice-cream stands. Note that the water may not be 100% safe for swimming. Serebryanny Bor is also great for cross-country skiing in winter. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Polezhaevskaya and take trolley bus 20, 21, 65 or minibus 65 to the stop "Serebryanny Bor", or you can take the metro to the station Oktyabrskoe Pole and then take minibus 15M to the station "4aya Liniya".
Open: 09:00 - 21:00 (beach)
Address: 4aya Liniya Khoroshevskogo Serebryannogo Bora
Metro: Polezhaevskaya, Oktyabrskoe Pole
Tel.: +7 495 789-2570, +7 929 9990415
Web: www.s-bor.ru
Severnoe Tushino Park
Table tennis, dance floor, video arcade and children playground with attractions. Bicycles, roller skates and rackets on hire.
Address: Svobodi ul., 56
Metro: Planernaya
Tel: +7 495 640-7355
Excursions: +7 926 5221596
Fax: +7 495 640-7354
Web: www.mosparks.ru
Sokolniki Park
This 600-hectare park surrounded by a forest is where the tsars used to bring their falcons (a falcon is called a "sokol" in Russian) to hunt foxes and other small animals. The first path was cut through the forest on the initiative of Peter the Great and since that all paths have the name "proseka" (cuttings). Today there are seven cuttings: Birch Cutting, Maple, Elm and others; they all form radial structure of the park. More than 500 kinds of plants and 70 kinds of animals inhabit this thicket. The international exhibition center in this park often holds large trade fairs. The spacious green areas with ponds, pavilions and playgrounds allow for nice walks. Fun fair, horseback riding, restaurant. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Sokolniki, and take a short walk along the alley.
Address: Sokolnicheskiy Val, 1, str. 1
Metro: Sokolniki
Tel: +7 499 393-9222
Web: www.park.sokolniki.com
Taganskiy Park
Park of clture and leisure "Taganskiy", a comfortable and eco-friendly island of fresh air, is located in the center of Moscow, in the heart of Taganskiy district. For the past years, the park is cultural, recreational and sports center of the district.
Open: 07:00 - 23:00
Address: Taganskaya ul., 40/42
Metro: Taganskaya
Tel: +7 495 912-2717
Web: www.parktaganskiy.ru
Troparyovo Park
A green oasis in the South of Moscow, this park has a beach, changing rooms, refreshment stands, a chess club, open-air stage, and ping pong tables. Canoes and paddleboats are available for rent. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Tyoply Stan, then walk for about 400 meters (0.2 mi) to reach the park.
Metro: Tyoply Stan
Vorobyovy Gory (Sparrow Hills)
Located adjacent to Moscow State University (MGU), this area is great for walking and rollerblading in the summer with a magnificent view of the city on a smog-free day from the platform across from the University. Birds have nothing to do with the name: in the 15th century one noble lady bought a village here from a priest called Vorobey. Vorobey's name has outlived the glory of the Great Soviet leader Lenin, whose name this hill wore in the Soviet times. In front of the facade of MSU facing the Moscow-river there is a big square and a lovely alley decorated with busts of famous Russian scientists. The alley leads to the best observation point of the city. Many newlyweds will visit this famous place after their official wedding ceremony. In winter you can also observe snow-boarders and alpine skiers on the hill underneath. On weekend nights, the roads between the platform and Moscow State University are the scenes for impromptu car races. Souvenir vendors are always on the platform. To get to the park, take the metro to the station Vorobyovy Gory, then walk up the hill to the observation point.
Metro: Vorobyovy Gory
Vorontsovskiy Park
The park is located on the territory of the former Vorontsovo Estate. Vorontsovo is the landscaped park with linden alleys, benches, woodpeckers, squirrels, and cascading ponds - the rare thing for a Moscow park design.
Open: 09:00 - 23:00 (summer), 10:00 - 22:00 (winter)
Address: Vorontsovsky park, 3
Metro: Novye Cheryomushki
Tel: +7 495 580-2678
Web: www.usadba-vorontsovo.ru
ESTATES
Abramtsevo
Abramtsevo was mentioned in official documents for the first time in the 17th century. In 1843 Abramtsevo became property of a famous Russian writer Sergey Aksakov and after Aksakov's death it was bought by a successful manufacturer and patron of arts Savva Mamontov. At this estate you can see a collection of ceramics made by Vrubel and exhibitions dedicated to the estate's famous visitors (Turgenev, Repin, Vrubel, and others). Today Abramtsevo occupies about 50 hectares (0.2 sq. mi) along with a park and picturesque outskirts of the Vorya River and comprises architectural monuments created in the 18-19th centuries. The museum's collection features more than 25,000 items: pictures, drawings, sculptures, arts and crafts, photographs and archives of previous owners. To get to the estate, drive along Yaroslavskoe shosse from the city center, reach the 60th km of Yaroslavskoe shosse, watch for Khotkovo direction sign and turn left or you can take electric train (elektrichka) from Yaroslavsky railway station to the station "Abramtsevo".
Open: 10:00 - 21:00 (park), expositions: 10:00 – 18:00, Sat until 20:00
Tel: +7 495 993-0033, +7 496 543-0278
Excursions: +7 916 2784542, +7 496 543-2470
Web: www.abramtsevo.net/eng
Arkhangelskoye Museum Estate
Arkhangelskoye is referred to as the Versailles of the Moscow region. At the beginning of the 18th century, the estate belonged to Prince D.M. Golitsyn. After his death, it was purchased by Prince N.B. Yusupov (1751-1831), one of Russia's richest noblemen. Prince Yusupov was a well-known art lover and collector and moved his art collection to Arkhangelskoye. It included over 500 paintings by European masters from the 17th to the 19th centuries, many of which are still on display at the estate today. The collection also includes rare books from the 16th to the 19th centuries, as well as sculptures, bronzes, clocks, furniture, porcelain, etc. The Church of Mikhail Archangel built in the 17th century stands on a high bank of the Moscow-river. There is also a theatre with decorations by famous artist P. Gonzaga, and, of course, The Colonnade. To get to the estate, go along Rublyovo-Uspenskoye shosse and turn right at the first traffic light after the village of Zhukovka onto llinskoye Shosse, drive 5 more km, or take the metro to the station Tushinskaya, then take bus 549, 541 or microbus 151 to the stop "Sanatory".
Open: 10:00-20:00 (Wed-Sun)
Metro: Tushinskaya
Tel: +7 (495) 363-1375
Web: www.arkhangelskoe.ru
Izmailovo Country Estate
Country residence of Russian tsars in the 17th and 18th centuries. The estate is located on the unique man-made island that was created at the behest of the tsar Alexey Mikhailovich, the father of Peter the Great. In 17th-18th centuries it was a summer residence of the tsar family where in 1666 Aleksey Mikhailovich organised an agricultural paradise with arable farming, bee- and poultry-keeping and other rural pleasures. Tsar's famous gardens became the prototype for future botanic gardens in Russia. The museum "Izmailovo and Russian Tsars" holds historical and dramatized excursions. The Mostovaya (Bridge) Tower, built in 1670, served as the main entrance to the Izmailovo estate and was part of an arched stone bridge across the Serebryany (Silver) Pond. The Tower's composition is typical of the middle-age architectural style of the second half of the 17th century and similar to some of the Moscow Kremlin towers. To get to the estate, take the metro to the station Partizanskaya, then take trolleybus 22 to the stop "Glavnaya Alleya".
Open: Exhibitions: Apr-Sep: Tue–Fri, Sun: 10:00 - 08:00, Sat: 11:00 - 19:00; Oct-Mar: Tue–Sun: 10:00 - 18:00. Mon – day off.
Address: Gorodok imeni Baumana, 1a
Metro: Partizanskaya
Tel.: +7 499 165-1236 / 0972, +7 499 782-8917/21
Web: www.mgomz.com
Kolomenskoye Open-Air Art Museum and Nature Preserve
The Kolomenskoye estate was once the royal summer residence of the Grand Princes of Moscow Vasili III and Ivan IV, and was turned into a museum and nature preserve in 1923. While the wooden summer palace was pulled down under Catherine II after it fell into disrepair, some of the churches built in the 16th and 17th centuries remain intact and serve as monuments to important stages in development of Russian church architecture. Among them are the Church of the Ascension (1532) and the Church of the Icon of Our Lady of Kazan (1644-1670). Several examples of Russian wooden architecture have been moved to Kolomenskoye and are also displayed in the park, including the wooden house of Peter the Great dating back to 1702. The 390-hectare park is also famed for its alley of ancient oaks and linden trees - some purportedly more than 200 years old. It is ideal for family outings and picnics. Kolomenskoe, a small calm green island in the boiling ocean of the big city, has a very long history. The first known reference to Kolomenskoe village was found in the will-chart Moscow Grand Prince Ivan Kalita, dated 1339. But, according to archaeological evidence, the first settlement here was founded already 2.5 thousand years ago: it was so-called "Dyakovo Gorodische", the oldest settlement found on the territory of modern Moscow. Nowadays Kolomenskoe is included in the UNESCO List of World's Cultural and Natural Heritage. Among the other historical monuments in Kolomenskoe are the bell-tower of St. George (16th century), the Falcon Tower (1627) and Peter the Great's cabin (1702), brought here from Arkhangelsk. Some of the architectural monuments house the museum's expositions, changed from time to time. Various musical performances and festivals are arranged for numerous guests of Kolomenskoe. To get to the estate, take the metro to the station Kolomenskaya, then take a 10 minute walk along Prospekt Andropova.
Open: 24/7
Exhibitions: Apr-Sep: Tue–Fri, Sun: 10:00 - 08:00, Sat: 11:00 - 19:00; Oct-Mar: Tue–Sun: 10:00 - 18:00. Mon – day off.
Address: Prospekt Andropova, 39
Metro: Kolomenskaya
Tel: +7 499 782-8917/21
Excursions: +7 499 615-2768/71
Web: www.mgomz.com
Kuskovo Estate and Ceramics Museum
Entering the Kuskovo estate gates, you find yourself in a different dimension. It feels like you have come into the 18th century by a time machine. Kuskovo occupies the territory of about 32 hectares. Towards the 1750s, following new trends in lifestyle, Count Petr Sheremetev, an important member of nobility at the Russian Imperial Court, turned his family estate (dating from the 16th century) into a residence, or "chateau de plaisir", which amazed his contemporaries by its splendour. Up to 25,000 guests would flock here to lavish celebrations. Yet, Count Sheremetev had the mansion built as a recreational summer residence, as well as a focus for different art forms appreciated by connoisseurs. Exhibits displayed here form a large part of his vast collection of fine and applied art. Nowadays the museum stock counts some 34,000 items, including a huge collection of ceramics and glass from different countries, from antiquity up to the present day. Architectural composition of the estate unites the Palace itself, three pleasure pavilions in the shapes of a Dutch house, an Italian villa, a Chinese pagoda and some other buildings. Baroque gardens and park landscape are geometrically laid out in the English style near the Large Pond. The Neo-Classical style Palace is one of the best parts of the estate preserved till now. The dancing hall is the largest and most beautiful parlor in the palace. The whole interior looks very festive due to the white and gild decorations of the walls, mosaic parquet and crystal chandeliers. To get to the estate, take the metro to the station Ryazansky Prospekt, then take bus 133, 208 or minibus 157 to the stop "Muzei Kuskovo".
Open: 10:00 - 20:00
Exhibitions: 10:00 - 18:00
Address: Yunosti ul., 2
Metro: Ryazansky Prospekt
Tel: +7 (495) 370-0160, 375-3131
Web: www.kuskovo.ru
Kuzminki-Vlakhernskoye
This estate traces its history from 1702, when Peter the Great presented this land to his favourite Grigory Stroganov. Muscovites call Kuzminki Estate "the Russian Versal"; this wonderful architectural ensemble was created by celebrated architects Matvey Kozakov, Vasily Bazhenov and the Gilyardi family. Church of the Vlakhernskaya Virgin is an outstanding architectural masterpiece. Famous Peter Klodt and Ivan Vitali decorated the estate with their sculptures. In late 18th - early 19th centuries some landscape modifications took place: a "Star" park, English garden and a Chinese pond were laid out. The museum's exposition shows us life of the Russian nobility of the 19th century. In winter you can ride a dog team here or take part in the traditional Russian amusements; in summer you can make a bike-excursion about the estate or sail over the Kuzminki ponds and watch splendid flowerbeds planted for the flower festival. To get to the estate, take the metro to the station Kuzminki, once out of the metro take a 7-8 minute walk to reach the estate.
Open: 24/7, museum: 10:00 - 18:00
Address: Topolevaya alleya, 6
Metro: Kuzminki
Tel: +7 495 377-9457, +7 495 372-6066, +7 495 657-6585
Web: www.kuzminki-msk.ru
Lefortovo
Lefortovo park is connected with the history of a separate district in Moscow counting some 300 years. At first this area in the outskirts of Moscow on the bank of the Yauza River was called Nemetskaya Sloboda (German settlement). This district was created by Ivan the Terrible especially for foreigners standing on Russian service, so that they could keep their habits of living. Time went by; New Sloboda appeared in this area under Tsar Aleksey Mikhailovich, father of Peter the Great. Later on, this district beyond the Yauza River was named in the memory of Franz Lefort, a Swiss of French origin, close friend and fellow-champion of Peter the Great. The history of Lefortovo is also connected with the name of Yakov Bruce, the first Freemason in Russia and (as the legend tells) the offspring of Druids. In the 18th century Lefortovo was the residence of Russian Emperors and Empresses. Later Lefortovo became the base of some elite troops of the Russian army and a military school; military hospital was also built in this district. To get to the estate, take the metro to the station Baumanskaya, then take tram 37, 50 to the stop "Lefortovsky Most".
Open: 24/7
Exhibitions: Apr-Sep: Tue–Fri, Sun: 10:00 - 08:00, Sat: 11:00 - 19:00; Oct-Mar: Tue–Sun: 10:00 - 18:00. Monday – day off.
Address: Krasnokazarmennaya ul., 3
Metro: Baumanskaya
Lublino Estate and Park
This lovely park and palace are mysteriously little-known by even native-born Muscovites. In the 17th century the lands had been a hunting park owned by the infamous Godunov family. By the end of the 18th century ownership had passed through the Razumovskys to the Durasovs, who built the present palace in the first decade of the 19th century. You can take a picnic and walk about the banks of the extensive Lublino Lake which forms the centre of the semi-landscaped park. Although Lublino's territory is adjacent to Kuzminki, it's a different estate with a different history, and is most easily accessed from a different metro station: Volzhkskaya. There is an extensive series of light classical concerts on weekend afternoons in summer, and even (free) outdoor performances of complete operas. To get to the estate, take the metro to the station Volzhskaya, once out of the metro, take a 5 minute walk to reach the estate.
Open: 09:00-18:00 (park); 10:00-17:00 (palace)
Metro: Volzhskaya
Tel: +7 495 350-1553, +7 499 722-7189, +7 499 614-2083
Web: www.mgomz.ru
Ostankino Estate Museum and Park (closed for restoration)
Ostankino was mentioned for the first time in the 16th century, but the oldest preserved building, the Church of Trinity, is dated 17th century. This beautiful palace belonged to Count Sheremetyev and is located on the shore of a lake right near the Botanical Garden and the VVTs Exhibition center. In the estate one of the first theatres in Russia was organised; all the actors here were serfs. This theatre still has one of the best acoustics in Moscow; moreover, it is the only preserved theatre of the 18th century. A considerable part of the Ostankinsky Park is occupied by the main Botanic Garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences with more than 2000 kinds of roses, 400 kinds of lilac, plenty of exotic plants, a 300-year-old linden alley and three ponds. The palace is not always open to visitors and is usually closed in winter months. Concerts in summer months. To get to the estate, take the metro to the station VDNKh, then take tram 17, 11 to the stop "Ostankino" or trolleybus 37 to the stop "Ulitsa Akademika Koroleva".
Open: 11:00 - 19:00 (museum in summer)
Address: 1aya Ostankinskaya ul., 5
Metro: VDNKh
Tel: + 7 495 602-1852
Web: www.ostankino-museum.ru/eng.php
Tsaritsyno Museum and Nature Preserve
The name of this estate and park comes from the Russian word "tsar" and is home to the romantic ruins of the unfinished palace that Ekaterina II (Catherine the Great) ordered in 1775. The architect fell out of grace with Ekaterina and the incomplete project slowly fell apart. Its trees overlook the waters of the Upper Tsaritsyno pond, which together with the Shipilovsky and Borisovsky ponds form the largest cascade of ponds in Moscow. Tsaritsyno is the largest museum-reserve and historical and cultural monument of the federal level in Moscow, occupying over 700 hectares. A tremendously rich complex of architectural objects is gathered here - the historic village sites, plowed fields, barrows dated from the VI thousand years B.C. to the beginning of the XII century. To get to the estate, take the metro to the station Tsarityno, once out of the metro take a 5 minute walk to reach the estate.
Open: 06:00-24:00
Museum: Tue–Fri: 09:30-18:00, Sat: 09:30-20:00, Sun: 09:30-19:00. Mon - day off. The entrance from 10:00.
Address: Dolskaya ul., 1
Metro: Tsarityno
Tel: +7 495 322-4433
Excursions: +7 495 322-4433 # 1142
Web: www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru |
|
|
|
|
| 83. | Work Permits :: Moscow's virtual community for English speaking expats and Russians
|
Work Permits
Work Permit Quota Application
Companies wishing to employ foreign nationals in Russia must submit information regarding foreign labor needs forecast (quota applications) to the employment authorities by 1 May of the previous year. Such applications should be broken down by position and by nationality. So, companies have to go through a rather difficult exercise and predict far in advance whom they plan to employ during the next year, and in what role. The authorities would only allow those positions and nationalities that are indicated in the application and are officially allocated to this particular company as quota. This means that a company will be unlikely to be able to change its mind and, for example, seek to hire a French rather than an Italian manager, in the event that the quota application was for an Italian.
The local employment authorities responsible for reviewing these quota applications must, initially, advise failed applicants by mid July, and successful applicants prior to August. Each region then passes its consolidated approvals up to a Federal level, and the national quota is meant to be set (in a database listing each successful company, by location, by position and by nationality) by the end of October for the following year. Approvals made in August can be superseded by this consolidation process. Unfortunately, for the two years in which this practice has been operational, the procedure has not been followed exactly by the authorities. For 2009, the database was not published in the autumn of 2008, and the exact mechanisms for quota allocation were indeed not clear until well into the spring of 2009 itself. For 2010, most regions of Russia completed the summer 2009 rejection and approval notifications, with Moscow being a notable exception.
In early December 2009 the final database setting out the quota for 2010 had not yet been published. 2009 also saw some cuts to the quota during the course of the year, somewhat to the surprise of those companies affected. Companies that experience errors in their quota, or who are newly formed or have registered new divisions in new locations in Russia, or where there is a need to add or change the quota can apply to the Interdepartmental Commission on Migration matters for the region in question. A reserve level of additional quota is kept back at a Federal level to facilitate this, but good arguments do need to be made to the Commission if additional quota is to be granted, or the perceived error corrected.
Experience shows that cases are generally reviewed upon their merits, but the process can still take time, even where successful. The Law governing work permits also allows the authorities annually to publish a list of positions which are exempt from quota. These have in past years covered senior executive positions and one or two technical IT roles. However, this list does need to be annually renewed, and it is not always operational at the start of the year, but is rather disseminated at some point in spring. However, this can be a useful means of adding flexibility for persons whose roles are covered.
Draft Law 2010
The Draft Law concerning highly qualified specialists was approved by the Federation Council on May 13th, 2010 and has been sent to the RF President for signing. The Draft Law will come into force on July 1st, 2010. The Federal Law amending the Law on the legal status of a foreigner in the Russian Federation and Budgetary and Tax Codes has brought a lot changes to the existing system of working conditions of foreigners in the RF.
Work permits and permissions to employ foreign workers - based on the new system, highly qualified foreign workers shall be exempt from the quota application procedure. The new system would just require an employer to submit an application to the respective state body for such highly qualified workers. Such an application must be considered within 14 days. High qualification shall be determined based on the salary threshold (starting from 2 mln. RUR per year) and documents proving it (diploma, reference letters, etc.). It should be especially noted that the 2 mln. RUR should be received from Russian sources only.
The duration of the work permits is extended to 3 years for the highly qualified workers, in accordance with the period of the labor agreement's duration.
The registration procedure has been substantially simplified. An employer no longer has to notify the migration service every time its foreign worker leaves the city he is working in.
The list of professions (positions) that are exempt from the quota system will not be subject to change.
Highly qualified workers will have the right to obtain residence permits for themselves and their family members for the period of labor agreement's duration.
Work visas for the highly qualified worker will be issued for 1 year, with a possibility of an extension of up to 3 years.
One Window Approach
For members of certain business associations, the authorities have sometimes expedited regimes; whereby, applications fro work permits and visas can be submitted at some place and time with the Federal Migration Service, making the processing time significantly quicker than usual.
Non-CIS Citizens
Under the current provisions of the Russian immigration legislation, each employer engaging foreign nationals from countries for which visas are necessary to enter Russia, is obliged to obtain Russian individual work permits for them. The starting point is for the employer to register with the employment authorities and submit an initial report on job vacancies. In order to apply for work permits, the company must fulfil the following obligations in the following order:
1) Update information on job vacancies with employment authorities; wait one month;
2) Apply to the Federal Migration Service fora corporate permit for the engagement of foreign labor; the Federal Migration Service will then confirm with the employment authorities that the positions for which permission to hire foreigners is sought have been listed as vacant for one month, and that no appropriate Russian candidates have been found; one month later the corporate permit will be issued;
3) Apply to the Federal Migration Service for an individual work permit; one month later the individual permit will be issued.
At the third stage, the application will tend to need to include, for executive and technical positions, some sort of certification of the foreigner's competence to hold the position. This will be a professional qualification or a certificate of higher education, which will need to be apostilled in the home country and submitted with a Russian notarized translation. The foreign national will also need to submit certification of his health, including confirmation from a medical facility that he is free from an extensive list of conditions and diseases.
From start to finish, therefore, assuming quota exists, obtaining a work permit should take no less than three months, but in reality the process can be significantly slower, especially if all documents are not in exactly the right order that the authorities require. The precise details of what is required are also subject to change, which can make the process highly frustrating.
Any individual work permit (regardless of the citizenship of its holder) is valid only for the region within Russia where that foreign employee is going to work. It is also possible to apply for a multi-regional work permit. In this case, the company needs to register with the local employment authorities in each region for which the work permit is needed. However, each stage of the application then needs to be completed by each region concerned; this can cause delays.
Once the individual work permit is obtained and an employment agreement with foreign national is concluded, the employer is obliged to inform the following state authorities about fact of employment of a foreigner:
Tax authorities (within 10 business days);
Employment authorities (within 1 month);
State Labor Inspection (within 1 month).
The individuals themselves do not have such notification obligations.
CIS Citizens
As concerns most CIS countries for citizens of which visas are not necessary to enter Russia, the individuals themselves are obliged to apply for their individual work permits prior to applying for a job with any employer. The employer should not apply for a corporate permit for the engagement of foreign labor in respect of CIS nationals.
There are three possible options for CIS citizens to apply for an individual work permit:
apply in person;
apply through an organization officially authorized to assist foreign nationals with employment;
authorize a third party, to be a representative of the individual in applying for his/her work permit.
There are also notification requirements with regards to non-visa expatriates; whereby, companies should notify various state bodies, including:
Immigration authorities (within 3 days);
Tax authorities (within 3 days);
Employment authorities (within 3 days).
Exemption from Work Permit
Work permits are not needed for the following categories of individuals:
Citizens of Belarus;
Permanent residents of Russia (those who hold permanent residency permit);
Employees of diplomatic missions, consulates and international organizations;
Employees of foreign companies (manufacturers or suppliers) engaged in the installation, installation supervision, servicing, war ranty servicing and after-guarantee repairs of installed equipment (montage and chefmontage);
Journalists accredited in Russia.
RESIDENCE PERMITS
Temporary Residence Permit
Temporary residents reside in Russia on the basis of temporary residence permits. Such permits are issued for three years and empower foreign nationals to temporarily reside in Russia prior to obtaining the permanent residency permit. Temporary residence permits are issued subject to an annual quota established by the Russian Government. Some categories of foreign nationals, most notably those married to Russian nationals, are exempt from this quota.
There is a different registration requirement applicable to temporary residents; whereby, they should be registered at the address of their residence. Temporary residents must register on an annual basis. There is special type of visa based on which a temporary resident may enter the country. It is issued at the time of his or her registration as a temporary resident in Russia. Under this registration, they can obtain only a single-entry visa, issued for 4 months, which can then be prolonged for the period of validity of the temporary residency permit. However, the most important complication related to this visa, is that each time the individual leaves and re-enters Russia, he must apply for an exit-entry visa.
Temporary residents cannot change the place of their residence and work away from the region of Russia for which the temporary residence permit is granted. Temporary residence permits are valid for up to three years, but there is no procedure for their extension. The inherent assumption is that a temporary resident would progress on to becoming a permanent resident. The same procedures for work permit applications applies to temporary residents.
In summary, therefore, becoming a temporary resident confers no material advantage compared with persons who are temporarily located in Russia on work visas and work permits. Work permits are still required, and the visa regime is more restrictive rather than less so. The main advantage of a temporary residence permit is therefore that it enables the holder to apply for a permanent residence permit.
Permanent Residence Permit
A temporary resident can apply for the permanent residence permit, provided he resided in Russia for at least one year on the basis of a temporary residence permit. Permanent residents are allowed to travel in and out of Russia without any restrictions, as no Russian visa is required in this case. No work permits are needed for permanent residents, and they may therefore be employed by any employer within the region concerned without restriction.
Permanent residence permits are issued for five years and may be re-issued for a similar period an unlimited number of times. As with temporary residents, permanent residents are subject to annual re-registration in Russia.
Sanctions for Non-Compliance
Even for minor violations in the immigration area, the authorities have full rights to the draconian penalty regime set out in the Administrative Code. The obvious intention of the above is to reinforce the responsibility of the foreign nationals visiting and working in Russia, as well as their employers for staying compliant with the Russian immigration and labour laws. In practice, these fine levels are not always imposed, with lesser (though still substantial) levels often being used, but this is entirely at the discretion of the authority concerned.
Sanctions are imposed separately for each violation in respect of each foreign employee engaged unlawfully and include:
Sanctions for engagement by employers of foreign citizens without work permits (up to 5,000 Rbs for the individual, 50,000 Rbs for the executives, 250,000-800,000 Rbs for the company or suspension of activities of the company for up to 90 days);
Sanctions for engagement by employers of foreign citizens without a corporate permit to engage foreign labour (similar as above);
Sanctions for not notifying immigration/employment/labour/tax authorities on engaging a foreign citizen, or upon the early termination of a foreign national (up to 5,000 Rbs for the employing individual, 50,000 Rbs for the responsible executives, 400,000-800,000 Rbs for the companies);
Sanctions for violation of immigration related enrolment rules (up to 5,000 Rbs for the hosting individual, 50,000 Rbs for the responsible executives, 400,000-500,000 Rbs for the company).
Common Pitfalls
Immigration compliance in Russia remains a complex and frustrating area. The current situation at any time should not be assumed as a permanent one. The Russian immigration authorities tend to change the procedure and requirements of any application in the course of the application process, which, with tight time deadlines, can force companies to restart the procedures from the very beginning. Even if companies follow all requirements of the Russian employment and immigration authorities, this can never guarantee successful results.
2010 is likely to see an even worse environment, with a reduced overall quota approved, late publication of the detail, and increased scrutiny of the authorities in relation to work permit applications, supporting documents, notifications in respect of hiring and termination of foreign individuals, registration requirements, and an increased level of immigration audits. More and more foreign citizens are now looking for possibilities to apply for Russian temporary and then permanent residence permits to avoid the number of immigration related requirements and procedures.
Organizations should be prepared; the process will be time and resource consuming, sometimes undefined and varied, but should also remember that by now, most companies ma nage to achieve the required results, or a practically acceptable workaround. Individuals, in turn, should also be prepared for some unexpected additional requirements with regard to immigration documents, medical tests, their arrivals and departures to, within and from Russia.
The most common incorrect assumptions and practical problems include:
"Working" in Russia on a business visa is acceptable;
Persons obtaining an "Inosotrudniki" visa do not need a work permit;
It does not matter if you forget to complete the enrolment and de-enrolment procedures each time the expatriate enters and exist Russia;
Provided you have one work permit then you can fulfil multiple roles or work for multiple different group entities or locations;
Work permits can always be expedited provided you have the right contacts;
It is always the fault of HR/Admin/External Immigration Service Provider if something goes wrong. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 84. | German Scholl Moscow
|
German Scholl Moscow
The German School Moscow "Friedrich-Joseph Haass" is a German-language private school in Moscow. The Foreign Office and the Central Administration of German Schools Abroad support the school. |
|
|
|
|
| 85. | Reka
|
Reka
Restaurant and Club "Reka" is a unique place in Moscow. It is a Club that introduces outstanding musicians and Djs from New York, London, Berlin and all over the world to Moscow public. The place has an elegant and cozy Restaurant Hall for 130 persons and a terrace with a spectacular view over Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 96. | Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul
|
Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul
Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul Church - Lutheran Cathedral in Moscow, which is the main cathedral of the regional Evangelical Lutheran Church of European Russia with the Department episkopaDitriha Borisovich Brauer as part of the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Russia, Ukraine, Kazakhstan and Central Asia. The cathedral is one of the two existing official Lutheran churches in Moscow, along with the Lutheran Church of the Holy Trinity in the Vedeno cemetery. The parish church of Saints Peter and Paul in Moscow - one of the oldest Lutheran congregation in Russia. |
|
|
|
|
| 97. | Radisson Collection Hotel
|
Radisson Collection Hotel
A gem among hotels in Russia, the Radisson Collection Hotel, Moscow boasts landmark status in the heart of the capital city. This elegant Moscow hotel was built between 1953 and 1957 as part of Stalin's Seven Sisters project and showcases Soviet Neo-classicism architecture. Soaring at 206 metres high, it was the largest European hotel of its day. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 105. | Embassy of Iceland
|
Embassy of Iceland
Web: www.government.is/diplomatic-missions/embassy-of-iceland-in-moscow |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 131. | Belye Palaty
|
Belye Palaty
An exhibition and cultural center situated in a historical building of XVII century in the very heart of Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 132. | Night Flight
|
Night Flight
Web: www.nightflight.ru
Launched in 1991 it hasn’t closed its doors once out of total 4787 working days. Night Flight still insists on having a team of professional Swedish managers on key positions including not only its chefs and restaurant managers but also security and the DJ. The club set a goal to host expats and foreign business visitors of Moscow seeking safe and respectable place for their evening and night leisure. Happily enough, this goal was achieved. Since then tens of Moscow night clubs came and vanished from the city’s night life, while Night Flight, like a green lighthouse, still attracts numerous spectators. This long lasting advance resulted in the emergence of the brand – Night Flight became a name for stability and success. The club keeps its doors opened daily from 20:00 till 05:00. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 135. | Museum of Moscow History
|
Museum of Moscow History
Web: www.mosmuseum.ru
Open: Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00,
Wed, Fri 11:00-19:00.
Closed: Mon and the last Fri of each month. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 138. | Moscow Museum of Modern Art
|
Moscow Museum of Modern Art
Web: www.mmoma.ru
Open: 12:00-20:00, Thu 13:00-21:00.
Box office: 12:00-19:15.
Closed: the last Mon of each month. |
|
|
|
|
| 139. | Moscow Zoo
|
Moscow Zoo
Web: www.moscowzoo.ru
Open: (summer) 10:00-20:00; (winter) 10:00-17:00.
Closed: Monday.
Tickets: 150 Rbs. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 141. | Archaeological Museum of Moscow
|
Archaeological Museum of Moscow
Web: www.mosmuseum.ru
Open: Tue, Thu, Sat 10:00-18:00.
Wed, Fri 11:00-19:00.
Closed: Mon and the last Friday of each month. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 156. | Public Museum of Moscow Metro
|
Public Museum of Moscow Metro
Web: www.engl.mosmetro.ru
Excursions by advance appointment.
Open: Mon 11:00-18:00, Tue-Fri 09:00-16:00. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 160. | Moscow Conservatory Great Hall
|
Moscow Conservatory Great Hall
Web: www.mosconsv.ru
Box office No. 3 - 11:00-19:00 (with a break 15:00-16:00)
Box office No. 4 - 12:00-20:00 (with a break 16:00-17:00) |
|
|
|
|
| 161. | Moskva Concert Cinema Hall
|
Moskva Concert Cinema Hall
Concert Cinema Hall "Moskva" is a modern multi-functional venue, situated in the very heart of Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 162. | Moscow Conservatoire Rachmaninov Zal
|
Moscow Conservatoire Rachmaninov Zal
Web: www.mosconsv.ru
Box office No. 3 - 11:00-19:00 (with a break 15:00-16:00)
Box office No. 4 - 12:00-20:00 (with a break 16:00-17:00) |
|
|
|
|
| 163. | Moscow Conservatoire Maly Zal
|
Moscow Conservatoire Maly Zal
Web: www.mosconsv.ru
Box office No. 3 - 11:00-19:00 (with a break 15:00-16:00)
Box office No. 4 - 12:00-20:00 (with a break 16:00-17:00) |
|
|
|
|
| 164. | Moscow Conservatoire Myaskovsky Zal
|
Moscow Conservatoire Myaskovsky Zal
Web: www.mosconsv.ru
Box office No. 3 - 11:00-19:00 (with a break 15:00-16:00)
Box office No. 4 - 12:00-20:00 (with a break 16:00-17:00) |
|
|
|
|
| 165. | Museum of Water
|
Museum of Water
Web: www.mosvodokanal.ru/museum
History of the Moscow water supply system.
Open: Mon-Fro 10:00-17:00.
Free admission. |
|
|
|
|
| 166. | Fakel
|
Fakel
"Moskino" company regularly screens original language films with subtitles in their cinemas. At the moment they are being shown in "Fakel" cinema. All films are displayed with Russian subtitles. Ticket prices in «Moskino» cinemas are the lowest in Moscow – from 150 to 250 RUR each. |
|
|
|
|
| 167. | State Kremlin Palace
|
State Kremlin Palace
The State Kremlin Palace, formerly and unofficially still better known as the Kremlin Palace of Congresses, is a large modern building inside the Moscow Kremlin. |
|
|
|
|
| 168. | Moscow Kremlin Museums
|
Moscow Kremlin Museums
Web: www.kreml.ru
Kremlin Museums: the Armoury Chamber, the Assumption Cathedral, the Archangel’s Cathedral, the Annunciation Cathedral, Ivan the Great Bell-Tower complex, the Church of Laying Our Lady’s Holy Robe, the Patriarch’s Palace and the Twelve Apostles’ Church.
Open: 10:00-17:00.
Closed: Thu. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 169. | True Moscow Skating Rink
|
True Moscow Skating Rink
Outdoor. Open: Mon-Fri 17:00-24:00,
Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00.
Entrance fee: 200 Rbs. Rental: 120 Rbs. |
|
|
|
|
| 170. | English International School (EIS)
|
English International School (EIS)
British owned, managed and staffed. For children from 3 up to 17 years old. Based on British National curriculum adapted for international classes. EIS Moscow East for children aged 3-17, EIS Moscow West (age 3-12), EIS Moscow South-West (age 3-11). |
|
|
|
|
| 171. | Brookes Moscow & Brookes Saint Petersburg
|
Brookes Moscow & Brookes Saint Petersburg
Brookes Moscow & Brookes Saint Petersburg are next-generation international educational establishments in the heart of Russia. Members of the Brookes Education Group (BEG), a global family of IB schools with seven campuses around the world, including major ones in Cambridge (founded in 1982), Vancouver and Seoul. The 800-pupil capacity Brookes Moscow site and its sister site of 250 capacity in Saint Petersburg welcome local and international students from age 2 to 18 to its campuses and offer the chance to study for the International Baccalaureate (IB) programme. Students also have access to BEG’s family of schools and the opportunity to study abroad. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 178. | Moscow Planetarium
|
Moscow Planetarium
Open: Mo, Wed-Fri 10:00–21:00, Sat-Sun 10:00–22:00 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 185. | Moscow Zoo
|
Moscow Zoo
Open: (winter) 10:00-17:00,
(summer) 10:00-20:00.
Closed: Mon. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 187. | Moscow Museum of Modern Art
|
Moscow Museum of Modern Art
Open: 12:00-20:00, Thu 13:00-21:00.
Box office: 12:00-19:15.
Closed: the last Mon of each month. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 190. | Moscow American Center
|
Moscow American Center
Library, reference services, cultural and educational programs. |
|
|
|
|
| 191. | Simply Angelic
|
Simply Angelic
Full time, live-in English-speaking nannies, governesses to families overseas including Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 192. | Tigerlily Childcare
|
Tigerlily Childcare
Providing English speaking nannies, governesses, housekeepers and maternity nurses to Expat and International families in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 193. | Moscow School No. 45
|
Moscow School No. 45
International Baccalaureate Middle Years Programme and Diploma Programme. English language from the first grade. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 195. | International School of Moscow
|
International School of Moscow
English National Curriculum. Open for 2-12 year olds. Native English speaking teachers. French, Russian. |
|
|
|
|
| 196. | Feya (Fairy)
|
Feya (Fairy)
Old Russian agency offers multi-language: nannies & governesses, housekeepers & drivers, gardeners etc. Trained domestic staff in Moscow since 2003. Speak English. |
|
|
|
|
| 197. | Montessori School of Moscow
|
Montessori School of Moscow
Upper Elementary, Elementary, Casa dei Bambini, Toddler and Parent Infant programs, English and Russian Speaking AMI standard teachers. |
|
|
|
|
| 198. | Moscow International Preschool
|
Moscow International Preschool
Open for 2-6 year olds. Up to ten children per group. Art, music, dance, birthday parties. Native-speaking and Russian teachers, psychologist, speech therapist, extra-activities. |
|
|
|
|
| 199. | Stary Angliisky Dvor (Old English Court)
|
Stary Angliisky Dvor (Old English Court)
Constructed in 15th century. Used to be a
residency of the English Moscow Trading
Company and later of the British Embassy.
Medieval interiors.
Open: 10:00-18:00.
Closed: Mon, the last Fri of each month. |
|
|
|
|
| 200. | Museum "Moscow Lights"
|
Museum "Moscow Lights"
All kinds of lamps, street lamps, lanterns.
Excursions in English are available.
Open: (excursions) 09:00-19:00,
(individual visitors) 11:00-17:00. |
|
|
|
|
| 201. | Moscow Swing Dance Society
|
Moscow Swing Dance Society
Swing dance school. Russian. Regular workshops with foreign teachers. Multiple locations. |
|
|
|
|
| 202. | Tchik Tchik
|
Tchik Tchik
The first American style children's hair salon in Moscow. Patient, child-friendly hairdressers. Specialized children's chairs. Cartoons (in French, English, Russian) and video games. Open: 10:00-19:00. By appointment only. |
|
|
|
|
| 203. | Public Museum of Moscow Metro
|
Public Museum of Moscow Metro
Web: engl.mosmetro.ru
Excursions by advance appointment.
Open: Mon 11:00-18:00, Tue-Fri 09:00-16:00. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 205. | Saturday Kids Club
|
Saturday Kids Club
Now Ptit Cref – the trilingual children's centre in the center of Moscow – is open for kids on weekends! Leave your child for half a day or for the whole day – and he or she will spend the whole time playing cheerful games with contemporaries and professional animators! The club is opened from 10:00 till 17:00 on Saturdays.
|
|
|
|
|
| 206. | Saturday Kids Club
|
Saturday Kids Club
Now Ptit Cref – the trilingual children's centre in the center of Moscow – is open for kids on weekends! Leave your child for half a day or for the whole day – and he or she will spend the whole time playing cheerful games with contemporaries and professional animators! The club is opened from 10:00 till 17:00 on Saturdays.
|
|
|
|
|
| 207. | Saturday Kids Club
|
Saturday Kids Club
Now Ptit Cref – the trilingual children's centre in the center of Moscow – is open for kids on weekends! Leave your child for half a day or for the whole day – and he or she will spend the whole time playing cheerful games with contemporaries and professional animators! The club is opened from 10:00 till 17:00 on Saturdays.
|
|
|
|
|
| 208. | Cooperation School
|
Cooperation School
English immersion nursery and kindergarten for children 2,5 – 7 years old. New Preschool in the centre of Moscow. Native English-speaking teachers and British national curriculum ( EYFS, KS1). Newly-constructed building with spacious classrooms, swimming pool and observatory. Russian lessons on request. No entrance fee! |
|
|
|
|
| 209. | Fred Astaire International
|
Fred Astaire International
World-known dance school. Slow waltz, Viennese waltz, tango, Argentinean tango, quick foxtrot, samba, jive, swing, blues, house, rock'n'roll and other kinds of dance. Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 210. | Fakel
|
Fakel
"Moskino" company regularly screens original language films with subtitles in their cinemas. At the moment they are being shown in "Fakel" cinema. All films are displayed with Russian subtitles. Ticket prices in «Moskino» cinemas are the lowest in Moscow – from 150 to 250 RUR each. |
|
|
|
|
| 211. | Fakel
|
Fakel
"Moskino" company regularly screens original language films with subtitles in their cinemas. At the moment they are being shown in "Fakel" cinema. All films are displayed with Russian subtitles. Ticket prices in «Moskino» cinemas are the lowest in Moscow – from 150 to 250 RUR each. |
|
|
|
|
| 212. | The British International School
|
The British International School
The British International School has successfully worked in the field of educational services in Russia for the past 27 years, providing a first-class education in the best traditions of British schools. It is accredited by the Council of British International Schools. At present the BIS consists of 6 schools located in different areas of Moscow: in the North (Voikovskaya Metro Station) and in the South (Profsoyuznaya and Novoyasenevskaya Metro Stations). The programme in 5 BIS schools is based upon the English National Curriculum. These schools are staffed by highly qualified specialists from the United Kingdom and other English speaking countries. Children of 65 nationalities, aged from 3 to 18 years study there. The British International School has been offering the International Baccalaureate and A-level programmes. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 213. | True Moscow Skating Rink
|
True Moscow Skating Rink
Outdoor. Open: Mon-Fri 17:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. Entrance fee: 200 Rbs. Rental: 120 Rbs. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 217. | DC Travel Club
|
DC Travel Club
Accommodation in hotels in Moscow, Saint-Petersburg and other cities of Russia, CIS and Baltic States, airtickets, VIP services, railways tickets, gGuided sightseeing tours in Moscow, S.-Petersburg and other cities, entrance tickets to all kinds of entertainments, visa support for inbound Diners Club Card members, arranging conferences at the best business halls in Moscow and St. Petersburg, transfers and rent-a-car in Moscow and St.Petersburg. |
|
|
|
|
| 218. | Parallel 60
|
Parallel 60
Travel company founded in 2006. Officially authorised to provide travel services for incoming foreign travellers in St.Petersburg, Moscow and all over Russia. Offices in St.Petersburg and Moscow. Travel services: Tours and excursions in St.Petersburg and Moscow; Shore excursions in St.Petersburg for cruise passengers (visa-free); River cruises St.Petersburg - Moscow (and backwards), Valaam, Kizhi, Solovki, etc.; Organizing meetings, incentive programs, conferences and exhibitions. |
|
|
|
|
| 219. | Angel Taxi
|
Angel Taxi
English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow's premier taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1000 drivers in Moscow and over 200 drivers in St. Pete. Individual tours in English around Moscow, Sergiev Posad, Golden Ring. "Standard", "Comfort", "Business". Intercity trips from Moscow and St. Pete across Russia. Corporate events, cost-efficient and cost-manageable corporate taxi. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 221. | The English International School
|
The English International School
British owned, managed and staffed. For children from 3 up to 17 years old. Based on British National curriculum adapted for international classes. 3 campuses available: EIS Moscow East for children aged 3-17, EIS Moscow West (age 3-12), EIS Moscow South-West (age 3-11). |
|
|
|
|
| 222. | Tour of Moscow
|
Tour of Moscow
Private guides, tours for expats in Moscow and surroundings. |
|
|
|
|
| 223. | Bank of Moscow
|
Bank of Moscow
Many locations throughout Moscow. Find the appropriate on the web site. |
|
|
|
|
| 224. | Tour de Moscow
|
Tour de Moscow
Hotel reservations, transportation service, city tours of Moscow, translation services. |
|
|
|
|
| 225. | Armstrong Europa Gmbh – Moscow
|
Armstrong Europa Gmbh – Moscow
International company. Floor coverings, false ceilings. Several official distributors in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 227. | Le Meridien Moscow Country Club
|
Le Meridien Moscow Country Club
Following along Volokolamskoe highway, cross the Moscow Ring Road. After 4 km turn to the right at the GAI station. Drive through Krasnogorsk and Novo-Nikolskoe village (10 km), turn to the right at the filling station under Le Meridien Moscow Country Club (2,6 km) sign. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 229. | Attida Consulting
|
Attida Consulting
Invitations to Russia (commercial, business, tourist visa support). Work permit in Moscow. Registration in Moscow. Guarantee to get allotment for your company. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 232. | California Cleaners
|
California Cleaners
Door to door dry cleaning. Laundry. 25 collection points in Moscow and Moscow area. |
|
|
|
|
| 233. | Brookes Moscow
|
Brookes Moscow
Brookes Moscow is an independent day school welcoming 800 local and international students. The school offers pre-nursery through year 13. Brookes Moscow is a member of the Brookes Education Group, a global family of schools with seven campuses around the world. To learn more about the International Baccalaureate, the Brookes Education Group and the wider Brookes family, please visit www.brookes.org. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 235. | A. LoveJoy Moving
|
A. LoveJoy Moving
International moving services, door-to-door delivery, customs formalities, office and flat removals in Moscow and Moscow region. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 237. | My Moscow Taxi
|
My Moscow Taxi
English-speaking taxi service in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 239. | Detsky Mir (Children's World)
|
Detsky Mir (Children's World)
Renowned shop network with a long history. Numerous locations in Moscow and the Moscow neighbourhood. Children's items for all ages. Toys, footwear, clothes, books, accessories. Multiple locations. |
|
|
|
|
| 240. | Moscow Private Tours
|
Moscow Private Tours
Private tours in Moscow and Golden Rings. Licensed guides, exclusive tours, flexible timings. |
|
|
|
|
| 241. | Lytkarino
|
Lytkarino
At Metro Kuzminki take bus 348 to the "Karier" stop. Although it is considered to be a Moscow beach, Lytkarino is 15 km outside the Moscow Ring Road (MKAD). The beach is famous for its white sand, clean water and pine forest. The shore is partly rocky. Cafe and parking (free and paid) are available. |
|
|
|
|
| 242. | Troika
|
Troika
Full service incoming tour operator (DMC Russia). Travel services for expatriate families in Russia: guided tours in Moscow and its suburbs, ideas for family holidays around Moscow, snowmobile tours in Karelia, adventure tours to Lake Baikal and Kamchatka. |
|
|
|
|
| 243. | Absolut Bank
|
Absolut Bank
Absolut Bank was established in 1993 and since 2007 is a member of a major international financial group KBC (Top-5 in Central and Eastern Europe). The Bank offers a wide range of banking services including deposits, VIP banking, free consulting on personal finance management etc. English-speaking managers are available. Absolut Bank has an extensive network in Moscow, the Moscow Region and 23 other regions of Russian. ATM network exceeds 2000 machines in Moscow and other cities of Russia conveniently placed (including the metro stations). Please find the appropriate location on the: web site. |
|
|
|
|
| 244. | Contrast Cleaners
|
Contrast Cleaners
High quality dry cleaning and laundry services and fur and leather specialists. Additional services include carpet cleaning, shoe repair and atelier. Collection points throughout Moscow. Express dry cleaners in key Moscow shopping centres including Evropeisky. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 246. | Moscow Service For Psychological Help
|
Moscow Service For Psychological Help
Personal and Family psychotherapy for English/Russian speaking people by psychologist working for the Moscow Service For Psychological Help. Individual, couple and family appointments. Supervised by European Family Therapy Association specialists. |
|
|
|
|
| 247. | Go to Russia
|
Go to Russia
Russia's full service travel management company (offices in Atlanta, San Francisco and Moscow). Visa support and full visa processing, registration, own network of managed short stay apartments, hotel accommodation, Moscow sightseeing tours. English-speaking managers. |
|
|
|
|
| 248. | The Vip Moscow Taxi
|
The Vip Moscow Taxi
Reliable, low-cost, English speaking taxi/transfer service. All Moscow airports including Sheremetyevo, Domodedovo and Vnukovo at any time of day at no extra charge. English-, Turkish- French, Russian -speaking operators. Online order. English version of the website. |
|
|
|
|
| 249. | ITE LLC Moscow
|
ITE LLC Moscow
International trade and exhibitions. Member of the International Union of Exhibitions and Fairs (RUEF), the Global Association of the Exhibition Industry (UFI), the Moscow International Business Association (MIBA) and Association of European Businesses (AEB). |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 251. | Go To Russia Travel
|
Go To Russia Travel
Russia's full service travel management company (offices in Atlanta, San Francisco and Moscow). Visa support and full visa processing, registration, own network of managed short stay apartments, hotel accommodation, Moscow sightseeing tours. English-speaking managers. |
|
|
|
|
| 252. | Great British Nannies
|
Great British Nannies
Great British Nannies is a British Nanny, Governess and Tutor agency located in London and Moscow. They specialize in placing experienced, highly skilled, native English speaking childcare educators in to high profile Russian families in London, Moscow and other worldwide destinations. |
|
|
|
|
| 253. | Moscow Personal Concierge
|
Moscow Personal Concierge
Hotel booking, air and rail tickets booking, taxi and limousine reservation, creative idea for a present – to buy & to deliver, appointments, arrangements and logistics, SPA reservations, best tables at the restaurants, advice and consulting on the best entertainment in Moscow, s,hopping consulting, catering order, flowers delivery, co-ordinate removal and relocation, doctors’ appointments, information centre. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 255. | Anglo-American School
|
Anglo-American School
The Anglo-American School of Moscow, founded in 1949, is an independent, coeducational day school, which offers an educational program from Pre-Kindergarten (4-year-olds) through grade 12. The Anglo-American School is chartered by the American, British, and Canadian Embassies in Moscow under the aegis of a School Board. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 258. | Seven Hills Property
|
Seven Hills Property
Real Estate services since 1999: apartments in Moscow for short and long rent; apartments for sale; cottages in Moscow district for sale and rent; offices for rent; property maintenance; consultations on real estate. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 261. | The International School of Moscow (ISM)
|
The International School of Moscow (ISM)
The International School of Moscow (ISM) offers a contemporary English international education to students aged from 2 to 18, from Early Years through to Sixth Form. The School has a student body of over 1000 and boasts more than 60 nationalities. The programme is based on the English National Curriculum (ENC), which offers the highly respected GCSE and A Level qualifications for older students. The school is a member of Nord Anglia Education, a growing network of 69 schools established across the globe. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 282. | All Good
|
All Good
Multiple locations all over Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 285. | Luxcompany
|
Luxcompany
Short let apartments in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 289. | Rigla
|
Rigla
Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 303. | HotelRoom24
|
HotelRoom24
Apartments for days in the center of Moscow . |
|
|
|
|
| 304. | 36,6
|
36,6
Multiple locations throughout Moscow. Internet store. |
|
|
|
|
| 305. | Samson Pharma
|
Samson Pharma
Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 311. | ExDo
|
ExDo
Mail delivery services (Moscow, Russia, CIS). |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 313. | Flowers Today
|
Flowers Today
Flower delivery services in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 314. | Perekryostok
|
Perekryostok
Retail chain. Multiple locations all over Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 316. | Cats & Dogs
|
Cats & Dogs
Pet shops. Multiple locations all over Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 318. | Dog School Moscow
|
Dog School Moscow
English-speaking dog trainer teaches you and your dog how to communicate. |
|
|
|
|
| 319. | Avis rent-a-car
|
Avis rent-a-car
Avis Russia is the official licensee of European Avis branch Avis Europe Plc. Avis Russia currently renders transport services in Moscow, Saint-Petersburg, Kaluga, Kazan, Samara, Sochi, Yekaterinburg, Khabarovsk. Being a member of worldwide Avis Rent a Car, we offer safe cars, high quality service, advantageous conditions of booking, and we support various discount and bonus programs for our regular customers. Addresses in Moscow: Downtown location: 4th Dobryninsky Pereulok 8, ground floor; International Airport Sheremetyevo II arriving hall Terminal D; Domodedovo Domestic Airport; Vnukovo Airport, Terminal A, Arrival Hall, Counter number 34. |
|
|
|
|
| 320. | Alye Parusa
|
Alye Parusa
Retail chain. Locations all over Moscow. Food delivery. |
|
|
|
|
| 321. | Tekhnosila
|
Tekhnosila
Household electrical appliances. Multiple locations all over Moscow. Open: 09:00-23:00. |
|
|
|
|
| 322. | M. Video
|
M. Video
Household electrical appliances. Multiple locations all over Moscow. Open: 24/7. |
|
|
|
|
| 323. | Moscow Roma
|
Moscow Roma
Italian furniture. Interior design. Delivery and assembly. Consultations. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 325. | Ice Complex "Moscow"
|
Ice Complex "Moscow"
Indoor. Open: 10:00-23:00. Night skating sessions - 23:30-06:00 (Fri, Sat). Entrance fee: 250 Rbs. Rental: 200 Rbs. |
|
|
|
|
| 326. | Moscow-DGH
|
Moscow-DGH
Owner operator. English-speaking driver, guide and hospitality manager. |
|
|
|
|
| 327. | City Realty
|
City Realty
Serviced Moscow apartments. Centrally located, fully equipped. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 329. | ExpatCPA
|
ExpatCPA
Personal tax services, Russian and US tax returns (CPA). Serving Moscow expatriate community since 1994. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 331. | MBRD
|
MBRD
Moscow Bank for Reconstruction and Development offers payroll projects within corporate banking. |
|
|
|
|
| 332. | Moscow Linguistic Center
|
Moscow Linguistic Center
Russian Language Courses. Evening classes for the expats. European languages. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 334. | Moscow Assistant
|
Moscow Assistant
Airport/city transfers, travel arrangements, event planning, errand services. |
|
|
|
|
| 335. | Moscow Swinger Club NUans
|
Moscow Swinger Club NUans
Face control. Eglish and French speaking personnel.
Open: 22:00-06:00. |
|
|
|
|
| 336. | Welcome-to-Russia
|
Welcome-to-Russia
Quality apartments in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Additional services - transfer, visa support and translation. |
|
|
|
|
| 337. | Credit Europe Bank
|
Credit Europe Bank
Many locations throughout Moscow. Find the appropriate on the web site. |
|
|
|
|
| 338. | Quintessential Moscow
|
Quintessential Moscow
Concierge, bodyguards, chauffeurs, venues, events, social & business networking, lifestyle management. |
|
|
|
|
| 339. | Production Paradise
|
Production Paradise
International online resource of photo, film and creative industry. Moscow agent - Svetlana Zoricheva. |
|
|
|
|
| 340. | Alfa-Bank
|
Alfa-Bank
Founded in 1990, Alfa Banking Group offers a wide range of products and operates in all sectors of the financial market, including corporate and retail lending, deposits, payment and account services, foreign exchange operations, cash handling services, custody services, investment banking and other ancillary services to corporate and retail customers. Alfa Banking Group is headquartered in Moscow, Russia, with branch network consisting of 617offices across Russia and abroad, includes a subsidiary bank in the Netherlands and financial subsidiaries in the United States, the United Kingdom and Cyprus, and employs approximately 25,093 people. Alfa Banking Group is ultimately owned by 6 shareholders through ABH Holdings S.A. Many locations throughout Moscow. Find the appropriate on the web site. |
|
|
|
|
| 341. | DHL
|
DHL
The global leader in express, freight and logistics. Numerous locations across Moscow. Extensive coverage across Russia & CIS. Integrated network in over 220 countries. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 343. | Simply Angelic
|
Simply Angelic
Full time, live-in English-speaking nannies and governesses to families overseas including Moscow, St-Petersburg. |
|
|
|
|
| 344. | Moscow House of Artist
|
Moscow House of Artist
About 30 gift departments. Souvenirs and gifts from England, Italy, Spain, India, Africa, eastern countries. |
|
|
|
|
| 345. | Dessa, S-3373
|
Dessa, S-3373
PADI, CMAS, TDI, SDI courses. Tourism. Diving equipment. Swimming with dolphins in the Moscow dolphinarium. Gift certificates. |
|
|
|
|
| 346. | Usadba
|
Usadba
Renting and selling top-quality properties in Moscow and its closest suburbs. Investment consulting services on Russian real estate market. |
|
|
|
|
| 347. | Monomax Congresses & Incentives
|
Monomax Congresses & Incentives
Professional Conference Organizer and Destination Management Company for Saint Petersburg, North-Western Russia, Moscow and Sochi. |
|
|
|
|
| 348. | Dom Knigi (Book House)
|
Dom Knigi (Book House)
Foreign literature department. Many locations throughout Moscow. Find the appropriate on the web site.
Open from 9:00 until 21:00 daily, from 10:00 on Sat, from 10:00 until 20:00 on Sun. |
|
|
|
|
| 349. | Rent Car in Moscow
|
Rent Car in Moscow
Car rental. Cars, minivans and minibuses rent-services with a driver. |
|
|
|
|
| 350. | Safe Box
|
Safe Box
Safe Box is the biggest and most central Self Storage Facility in Moscow. Moving & Packing services. |
|
|
|
|
| 351. | Radisson Royal Moscow
|
Radisson Royal Moscow
5 star hotel. Under reconstruction. Opening mid 2010. Former Ukraine hotel. |
|
|
|
|
| 352. | Citibank
|
Citibank
Many locations throughout Moscow. Find the appropriate on the web site. |
|
|
|
|
| 353. | Raiffeisen Bank Austria
|
Raiffeisen Bank Austria
Many locations throughout Moscow. Find the appropriate on the web site. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 357. | Ethiopia
|
Ethiopia
The Embassy of the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 359. | ITEC Language School
|
ITEC Language School
Russian Language Courses in the historic center of Moscow. Special offer for the expats! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 361. | Raftur
|
Raftur
Rafting in Moscow region, Caucasus, Novgorodskaya region, Karelia. For beginners. All the equipment is provided. Call from 09:00 until 22:00. |
|
|
|
|
| 362. | Zmey.ru
|
Zmey.ru
Kitesurfing club and school. Specialized shop. Several locations in Moscow region. The shop and office are open from 11:00 until 22:00. |
|
|
|
|
| 363. | Apartment Reservation Network
|
Apartment Reservation Network
Serviced apartments in Moscow. Apartments for rent - centrally located and renovated to Western standards. |
|
|
|
|
| 364. | Moscow University Touro
|
Moscow University Touro
Independent, non-profit institution of higher education working under the contract with Touro College, New York. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 366. | Brazil
|
Brazil
The Embassy of the Federative Republic of Brazil in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 367. | Uruguay
|
Uruguay
The Embassy of the Eastern Republic in Uruguay in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 368. | Bangladesh
|
Bangladesh
The Embassy of the People's Republic of Bangladesh in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 370. | China
|
China
The Embassy of the People's Republic of China in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 372. | Airport Transfers
|
Airport Transfers
Reliable, low-cost, English speaking taxi/transfer service. All Moscow airports including Sheremetyevo, Domodedovo and Vnukovo at any time of day at no extra charge. |
|
|
|
|
| 373. | IPT
|
IPT
Luxury nightclubs concierge service in Moscow. Safe and private. Best night clubs, luxury cars, English-speaking guides. |
|
|
|
|
| 374. | Moscow Economic School
|
Moscow Economic School
A bilingual school (Russian/English) with one foreign language (German, Spanish or French). Under the International Baccalaureate curriculum. |
|
|
|
|
| 375. | City Group Services Ltd.
|
City Group Services Ltd.
Offshore financial Advise offered to Expatriates world-wide. Based here in Moscow. Contacts: Michael Vincent 8 926 6662678, James Shepherd 8 906 0662136. |
|
|
|
|
| 376. | Knight Frank
|
Knight Frank
International Real Estate (residential, office, industrial, retail, land) consultancy, valuation, strategic planning, research and investment services in Moscow since 1996. |
|
|
|
|
| 377. | You are Welcome
|
You are Welcome
Moscow Airport transfer and taxi service. English-speaking operators and drivers. Cash, credit cards, bank transfer - any payment method. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 379. | Madagascar
|
Madagascar
The Embassy of the Republic of Madagascar in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 381. | Chad
|
Chad
The Embassy of the Republic of Chad in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 382. | Cameroon
|
Cameroon
The Embassy of the Republic of Cameroon in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 383. | Slovenia
|
Slovenia
The Embassy of the Republic of Slovenia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 384. | Benin
|
Benin
The Embassy of the Republic of Benin in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 385. | Côte d'Ivoire
|
Côte d'Ivoire
The Embassy of Cote d'Ivoire in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 386. | Indonesia
|
Indonesia
The Embassy of the Republic of Indonesia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 387. | Bolivia
|
Bolivia
The Embassy of the Republic of Bolivia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 388. | Hungary
|
Hungary
The Embassy of the Republic of Hungary in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 390. | Bulgaria
|
Bulgaria
The Embassy of the Republic of Bulgaria in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 391. | Cyprus
|
Cyprus
The Embassy of the Republic of Cyprus in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 393. | Cambodia
|
Cambodia
The Royal Embassy of Cambodia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 394. | Burundi
|
Burundi
The Embassy of the Republic of Burundi in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 395. | Angola
|
Angola
The Embassy of the Republic of Angola in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 396. | Mongolia
|
Mongolia
The Embassy of the Republic of Mongolia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 397. | Ghana
|
Ghana
The Embassy of the Republic of Ghana in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 398. | Sultan's Delights
|
Sultan's Delights
Catering of Turkish Food in Moscow. Wide range of products varying from fingerfood to complete buffets, carefully prepared by a Turkish lady. |
|
|
|
|
| 399. | Otrada
|
Otrada
World class ridding club. Drive 1,6 km along Pyatnitskoe shosse from Mitino to Moscow region, watch for "KSK Otrada" direction sign and turn left. |
|
|
|
|
| 400. | Polyglot Family
|
Polyglot Family
Recruiting agency engaged in the professional selection of native speaking nannies, governesses and tutors. They provide staff for high profile families and individuals in Moscow, Russia and worldwide. |
|
|
|
|
| 401. | Moscow City Golf Club
|
Moscow City Golf Club
9-hole course, 23 bunkers. Was founded by its founder and Honorary Club President - Sven Tumba, the well-known Swedish sportsmen.Total playing distance - 2.343 m. |
|
|
|
|
| 402. | Transport Link Service
|
Transport Link Service
Bus company with western management, delivers high quality transportation service to schools, companies, embassies, organizations and private persons in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 403. | London-Moscow
|
London-Moscow
Translation of fiction and periodicals, translation of web-pages and news reports, layout and pagination of translated documents (formatting and prepress processing), editing of texts, proof-reading. |
|
|
|
|
| 404. | RuskoTaxi
|
RuskoTaxi
24hr airport transfer, taxi service with English-speaking licensed drivers and private tours in Moscow and St. Petersburg. All cars are constantly checked. Competitive and fixed fares, online order, PayPal. |
|
|
|
|
| 405. | Zmeinoe Logovo Kitesurfing Club
|
Zmeinoe Logovo Kitesurfing Club
Kitesurfing pioneer in Russia. Training, selling, rent. The shop is open from 11:00 until 20:00. Kitesurfing school - 7 8 916 855-1787, trainings in Moscow region. |
|
|
|
|
| 406. | Savelovsky Trade Complex
|
Savelovsky Trade Complex
The largest computer trade complex in Moscow. Computers, laptops, software, hardware, music. |
|
|
|
|
| 407. | Four Squares Serviced Apartments
|
Four Squares Serviced Apartments
Serviced apartments in central Moscow. Free Wi-Fi and satellite-TV, 24/7 English language emergency helpline. |
|
|
|
|
| 408. | Diana
|
Diana
About 500 collection points. The largest Moscow dry cleaner's network. Full-services dry cleaner's. Door to door dry cleaning. Laundry. |
|
|
|
|
| 409. | Limousine Service
|
Limousine Service
Well established chauffeur-driven car rentals company. Highest quality transportation service in Moscow, transfrers to airports, railway stations, and major cities: St Petersburg, Nizhniy Novgorod. |
|
|
|
|
| 410. | Libya
|
Libya
The Embassy of Libya in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 411. | Malta
|
Malta
The Embassy of Malta in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 412. | Lithuania
|
Lithuania
The Embassy of Lithuania in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 413. | Luxembourg
|
Luxembourg
The Embassy of Luxembourg in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 414. | Mali
|
Mali
The Embassy of Mali in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 415. | Canada
|
Canada
The Embassy of Canada in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 416. | Macedonia
|
Macedonia
The Embassy of Macedonia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 417. | Malaysia
|
Malaysia
The Embassy of Malaysia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 418. | Montenegro
|
Montenegro
The Embassy of Montenegro in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 419. | Lebanon
|
Lebanon
The Embassy of Lebanon in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 420. | Chile
|
Chile
The Embassy of Chile in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 421. | Iceland
|
Iceland
The Embassy of Iceland in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 422. | Guatemala
|
Guatemala
The Embassy of Guatemala in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 423. | Denmark
|
Denmark
The Embassy of Denmark in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 424. | Greece
|
Greece
The Embassy of Greece in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 425. | Gabon
|
Gabon
The Embassy of Gabon in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 426. | Germany
|
Germany
The Embassy of Germany in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 427. | Georgia
|
Georgia
The Embassy of Georgia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 428. | France
|
France
The Embassy of France in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 429. | Finland
|
Finland
The Embassy of Finland in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 430. | Estonia
|
Estonia
The Embassy of Estonia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 431. | Ecuador
|
Ecuador
The Embassy of Ecuador in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 432. | India
|
India
The Embassy of India in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 433. | Iran
|
Iran
Embassy of Iran in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 434. | Laos
|
Laos
The Embassy of Laos in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 435. | Colombia
|
Colombia
The Embassy of Colombia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 436. | Kuwait
|
Kuwait
The Embassy of Kuwait in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 437. | Israel
|
Israel
The Embassy of Israel in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 438. | Kenya
|
Kenya
The Embassy of Kenya in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 439. | Kazakhstan
|
Kazakhstan
The Embassy of Kazakhstan in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 440. | Japan
|
Japan
The Embassy of Japan in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 441. | Italy
|
Italy
The Embassy of Italy in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 442. | Kyrgyzstan
|
Kyrgyzstan
The Embassy of Kyrgyzstan in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 443. | Ireland
|
Ireland
The Embassy of Ireland in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 444. | Iraq
|
Iraq
The Embassy of Iraq in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 445. | Egypt
|
Egypt
The Embassy of Egypt in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 446. | Afghanistan
|
Afghanistan
The Embassy of Afghanistan in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 447. | Austria
|
Austria
The Embassy of Austria in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 448. | Tunisia
|
Tunisia
The Embassy of Tunisia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 449. | Tajikistan
|
Tajikistan
The Embassy of Tajikistan in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 450. | Syria
|
Syria
The Embassy of Syria in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 451. | Switzerland
|
Switzerland
The Embassy of Switzerland in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 452. | Sweden
|
Sweden
The Embassy of Sweden in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 453. | Sri Lanka
|
Sri Lanka
The Embassy of Sri Lanka in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 454. | Spain
|
Spain
The Embassy of Spain in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 455. | Bahrain
|
Bahrain
The Embassy of Bahrain in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 456. | Belarus
|
Belarus
The Embassy of Belarus in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 457. | Belgium
|
Belgium
The Embassy of Belgium in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 458. | Singapore
|
Singapore
The Embassy of Singapore in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 459. | Australia
|
Australia
The Embassy of Australia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 460. | Turkey
|
Turkey
The Embassy of Turkey in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 461. | Turkmenistan
|
Turkmenistan
The Embassy of Turkmenistan in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 462. | Albania
|
Albania
The Embassy of Albania in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 463. | Algeria
|
Algeria
The Embassy of Algeria in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 464. | Zimbabwe
|
Zimbabwe
The Embassy of Zimbabwe in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 465. | Argentina
|
Argentina
The Embassy of Argentina in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 466. | Zambia
|
Zambia
The Embassy of Zambia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 467. | Serbia
|
Serbia
The Embassy of Serbia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 468. | Armenia
|
Armenia
The Embassy of Armenia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 469. | Yemen
|
Yemen
The Embassy of Yemen in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 470. | Vietnam
|
Vietnam
The Embassy of Vietnam in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 471. | Venezuela
|
Venezuela
The Embassy of Venezuela in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 472. | Uzbekistan
|
Uzbekistan
The Embassy of Uzbekistan in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 473. | Uganda
|
Uganda
The Embassy of Uganda in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 474. | Nepal
|
Nepal
The Embassy of Nepal in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 475. | Romania
|
Romania
The Embassy of Romania in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 476. | Thailand
|
Thailand
The Embassy of Thailand in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 477. | Mozambique
|
Mozambique
The Embassy of Mozambique in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 478. | Cuba
|
Cuba
The Embassy of Cuba in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 479. | Pakistan
|
Pakistan
The Embassy of Pakistan in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 480. | Oman
|
Oman
The Embassy of Oman in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 481. | Netherlands
|
Netherlands
The Embassy of the Netherlands in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 482. | New Zealand
|
New Zealand
The Embassy of New Zealand in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 483. | Nicaragua
|
Nicaragua
The Embassy of Nicaragua in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 484. | Nigeria
|
Nigeria
The Embassy of Nigeria in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 485. | Palestine
|
Palestine
The Embassy of Palestine in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 486. | Morocco
|
Morocco
The Embassy of Morocco in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 487. | Latvia
|
Latvia
The Embassy of Latvia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 488. | Mauritania
|
Mauritania
The Embassy of Mauritania in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 489. | Portugal
|
Portugal
The Embassy of Portugal in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 490. | Poland
|
Poland
The Embassy of Poland in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 491. | Panama
|
Panama
The Embassy of Panama in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 492. | Mexico
|
Mexico
The Embassy of Mexico in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 493. | Philippines
|
Philippines
The Embassy of Philippines in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 494. | Moldova
|
Moldova
The Embassy of Moldova in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 495. | Norway
|
Norway
The Embassy of Norway in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 496. | Moscow Center of Modern Dance
|
Moscow Center of Modern Dance
Latin, strip-dance, Argentinian tango, waltz, foxtrot, rock'n'roll, twist, swing, belly dance, flamenco, "Nation's Dances" course. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 498. | AB-Russia with Love
|
AB-Russia with Love
Tours and travels in Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Golden Ring cities (Sergiev Posad, Vladimir, Suzdal). Private tours with experienced and not boring guides. Many languages are available. Business interpreters services. |
|
|
|
|
| 499. | Playschool Moscow
|
Playschool Moscow
Accredited Preschool and Kindergarten programmes for children ages 2.5 to 6.5 y.o. with native English speaking teachers. Afternoon English club, baby club, afterschool activities. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 501. | Svetlana Poletskaya
|
Svetlana Poletskaya
I am certified in client-centered counselling psychology and I provide psychology counselling, support and assistance regarding various personal adults’ issues. I can meet you in person in the centre of Moscow or online. |
|
|
|
|
| 502. | Respublica
|
Respublica
Books in English and other languages. Audio books. Art venue, style of the American Barns & Nobles. Multiple locations throughout Moscow. Find the appropriate on the web site. |
|
|
|
|
| 503. | Strogino
|
Strogino
Go to Metro Shchukinskaya, then take bus 231, 238, 687 or 277. Very clean and beautiful sand beach with many trees and bushes nearby. Cars are not permitted near the beach, so the air is cleaner than at any other Moscow beach. The place is quiet and divided into three separate beaches: regular, nudist, and gay. |
|
|
|
|
| 504. | Peace Travel Service
|
Peace Travel Service
Full service visa processing for individuals and also groups, assisting with travel to the CIS Nations, hotel accommodations, plane and train tickets, transfers between airports and hotels in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 505. | Le Meridien Moscow Country Club
|
Le Meridien Moscow Country Club
18-hole world-class golf course, outdoor and indoor driving ranges, pro-shop with a wide variety of professional sports equipment and axillaries, mini-golf, computerized golf simulator. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 508. | Montessori School of Moscow
|
Montessori School of Moscow
Open to children aged birth to 6+ years old and offers three programs: Parent Infant Class, Toddler Community and Casa dei Bambini. Teachers and staff are fluent in English and/or Russian, have international work experience and/or education and speak other languages. |
|
|
|
|
| 509. | Clipmaker. Film & Photography
|
Clipmaker. Film & Photography
Film productions company. Full-post company. Photography. Music video. Commercial. Feature films. Office in Amsterdam and Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 510. | Druzhba Universal Gym
|
Druzhba Universal Gym
The largest Moscow tennis center.
33 outdoor courts (baspograss, polygrass, ground) + 4 indoor courts (hard), mini gym, sauna.
Children tennis school.
Locker rooms, sport shop, cafe, restaurant. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 514. | South Africa
|
South Africa
The Embassy of the Republic of South Africa in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 516. | Saudi Arabia
|
Saudi Arabia
The Embassy of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 518. | Moscow Insurance Company
|
Moscow Insurance Company
Aircraft insurance, car insurance, accident insurance, health insurance, travel insurance, cargo insurance, liability insurance, property insurance, reinsurance. |
|
|
|
|
| 519. | Travel to Russia
|
Travel to Russia
US travel agency based in New York and with specialists in Moscow and St-Petersburg. Full-service visa processing. Contacts: Toll-free anywhere in US and Canada: tel: 1-800-884-1721, fax: 1-888-607-4442; Toll-free anywhere in UK: tel: 0800-242-5155. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 522. | The Moscow Federation of Yoshinkan Aikido
|
The Moscow Federation of Yoshinkan Aikido
Part of International Yoshinkan Aikido Federation (IYAF). Aikido classes on the basis of the Japanese masters’ methods plus individual approach. |
|
|
|
|
| 523. | SV-Tuning
|
SV-Tuning
Auto-repairs, maintenance, car evacuation, tire-shop, tuning-shop. Broad range of services for a foreigner in order to save time and money when dealing with any problems associated with broken cars or driving in Moscow. Can evacuate and help you with any trouble on the road. Speak english. |
|
|
|
|
| 524. | Anastasia Int.
|
Anastasia Int.
The largest full-time staff in the industry - more than 80 full-time professionals in US and Moscow offices. Flower and gifts delivery to hundreds of cities and towns across all 11 time zones. Top-professionals to help you find your love. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 526. | Dobrota.ru
|
Dobrota.ru
Medical equipment retail network (16 points of sale), wheelchair hire in Moscow and Saint-Petersburg, delivery, mobility aids, patient care facilities, wheelchair maintenance, special taxi for handicapped people, home-nursing. English-speaking operators. Multiple locations. |
|
|
|
|
| 527. | Arco Consulting
|
Arco Consulting
Full service visa processing: invitations, tourist vouchers, visa support, visa registration in Russia and CIS. Hotel accommodations, sightseeing tours, theater tickets, air and rail tickets, river cruises. Offices in Moscow, New York, Toronto. |
|
|
|
|
| 528. | Galkin Law
|
Galkin Law
Private and business legal assistance for expats and international entrepreneurs in Moscow, Russia. Migration services; employment law & unfair dismissal; legal support of real estate transactions; business incorporation; corporate & commercial law advice; dispute resolution; legal representation. |
|
|
|
|
| 529. | Visit Russia
|
Visit Russia
Full Russia visa services for US tourists, visa support for all tourists. Offices in Moscow, St-Petersburg and New York. Contacts: Toll Free within the USA: 1-800-755-3080; 1-718-841-7505 - New York. |
|
|
|
|
| 530. | Baker & McKenzie
|
Baker & McKenzie
In Moscow since 1989. Antitrust & competition, banking & finance, bankruptcy/financial restructuring, dispute resolution, employment, energy, chemicals, mining & infrastructure, environment, insurance, intellectual property, IT/communications, mergers & acquisitions, pharmaceuticals & healthcare, private equity, real estate, securities, tax, trade & commerce. |
|
|
|
|
| 531. | Sportventure Moscow
|
Sportventure Moscow
5 indoor courts, 1 outdoor court (artificial grass).Court rental: outdoor - 1400 Rbs/hour,indoor - 1500-2100 Rbs/hour. |
|
|
|
|
| 532. | Bukhta Radosty
|
Bukhta Radosty
This beach is a bit of a hike from the city, but is well worth the trip. Located on the Klyazminskoye Reservoir, this beach is exceptionally clean and beautiful. Pack a picnic lunch and head out for the entire day. To get there, go to Rechnoi Vokzal and take a boat up the Moscow Canal. Boats leave every hour starting at noon, though you might want to call ahead and ask for an up-to-date schedule. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 534. | Specialist Language Services York
|
Specialist Language Services York
Moscow-based representatives of Specialist Language Services York UK Ltd. Specialises in executive one-on-one Business English courses. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 536. | M&TM Freight
|
M&TM Freight
Founded in 1995, with offices in Moscow, St Petersburg, Hamburg and London, offers Relocation, Storage, Export/Import formalities and certificates, Insurance, Removal services from anywhere in Russia to anywhere in the world and back. Deals with direct and consolidated shipments of commercial and household goods, art work, pets, vehicles and plants by water, air, road and rail. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 538. | Czech Republic
|
Czech Republic
The Embassy of Czech Republic in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 539. | Costa Rica
|
Costa Rica
The Embassy of Costa Rica in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 540. | Slovak Republic
|
Slovak Republic
The Embassy of Slovak Republic in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 541. | Ranet
|
Ranet
Based in Moscow, St. Petersburg and other regions of the Russian Federation. Maintenance and cleaning of premises. Carpet cleaning and crystallization of marble floors, granite, stone, terracotta. Rehabilitation after work and cleaning property. Cleaning offices, specific cleaning shops, medical offices and beauty salons. |
|
|
|
|
| 542. | Andy Fiord Production
|
Andy Fiord Production
European photo&film production company providing complete shooting solutions. Branch offices in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Paris, Milan and Reykjavik. Handles projects of different scale, type and budget: commercial and editorial photography; documentary, music and corporate video; aerial shooting, etc. |
|
|
|
|
| 543. | Sorochany
|
Sorochany
54th km of Dmitrovskoe sh., watch for Sofino and Yaroslavl direction sing and turn right, drive across the bridge (the Moscow Canal) and turn left, drive 10 km and at T-junction in Ilyinskoe turn left to Kurovo, drive 2 km more.
Difference in altitude - 90 m; longest run - 850 m; slopes - 10; total - 5,3 km. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 545. | EverestMusic
|
EverestMusic
Audio production services in Moscow: sound post-production and music for films, TV series, commercials and corporate videos, incl. foley laying and recording, sound editing, dubbing and voice-over, musical score, as well as production of songs, arrangements, vocal recording and tuning. |
|
|
|
|
| 546. | Counseling Psychologist, Psychotherapist, Coach
|
Counseling Psychologist, Psychotherapist, Coach
Counseling psychologist, client-centered psychotherapist and co-active coach. 10 years of experience. Offer counseling, psychotherapy and coaching both in Russian and in English. Work via skype and in-person (in Moscow). Kirill Kryuchkov |
|
|
|
|
| 547. | Fred Astaire Social Dance Studios
|
Fred Astaire Social Dance Studios
World-known dance school. Slow waltz, Viennese waltz, tango, Argentinean tango, quick foxtrot, samba, jive, swing, blues, house, rock'n'roll and other kinds of dances. Multiple locations throughout Moscow. Expat.ru users get 10% discount. |
|
|
|
|
| 548. | Flightman & Priest
|
Flightman & Priest
Moscow-based boutique law firm with a strong focus on supporting foreigners in Russia. Offers exceptional legal expertise coupled with thorough understanding of the Russian and international business and political environment. Can assist you on a vast majority of legal issues in the field of labor, tax, corporate, real estate law, as well as wealth planning and dispute resolution. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 550. | Dental Land
|
Dental Land
Dental Land, headed by Dr V.F. Prikuls, Honoured Doctor of the Russia, affiliate member of American Dental Association (ADA) is a dental centre of Moscow State University of Medicine and Dentistry. Treatment and restoration of teeth, dental surgery, prosthetics, tooth bleaching, periodontal diseases, bite correction. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 555. | Elite Educational Development
|
Elite Educational Development
Elite Educational Development specialises in the placement of VIP nanny and governesses in Moscow, Russia and worldwide. They work with only the most qualified and experienced English, French, Spanish, Italian, German and Chinese nanny, governess and governor candidates. This agency will find the perfect fit for you and your family. |
|
|
|
|
| 556. | Ace International Moving
|
Ace International Moving
Household goods and personal effects. Worldwide international moving services. Export & import customs formalities. Personal effects export packing. Local removals in Moscow. Storage. Free survey. |
|
|
|
|
| 557. | Vesta-Fortune
|
Vesta-Fortune
Our marriage agency exists for more than 9 years already. We have a big photo-collection (the best in Moscow), which includes files of about 2000 women. Our clients-women have high level of culture, well-educated, the majority speaks foreign languages. Only we can offer you all range of services, from individual match making introductions to organizing socials, where hundreds of men and women can find a life-partner. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 560. | Moscow Yacht Port Club
|
Moscow Yacht Port Club
Drive along Dmitrovskoe shosse, reach MKAD and drive 7 km more, watch for Moskva channel and turn right before it, watch for Vodnik direction sign, pass Vodnik and drive across the bridge. Full-service yacht club. Open: 09:00-21:00. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 562. | IMS International Moving Services
|
IMS International Moving Services
International Moving Services is a full-service moving and transport company headquartered in Moscow, Russia. Professional western-European management and friendly local service make IMS the perfect choice for commercial, governmental and residential moves to, from or within Russia. |
|
|
|
|
| 563. | Expat Salon
|
Expat Salon
A full service beauty salon created for Moscow’s Expat community. We offer services in haircare, nailcare, cosmetology and massage with professional English speaking staff. Popular American and European beauty products are also sold at the place. Money back guarantee on all products and services! |
|
|
|
|
| 564. | Interdean Interconex Moscow
|
Interdean Interconex Moscow
Interdean is one of world’s ten biggest moving and relocation companies with 45 years experience in this market providing moving services for household goods and personal effects. Members of FIDI-FAIM, HHGFAA, work in accordance with ISO 9001:2000 standards. Has 56 offices in 40 countries, more than 800 employers, 500 agents all around the world to perform your move. Contact Victor Gordievich. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 566. | Advocate Maxim A. Polyakov
|
Advocate Maxim A. Polyakov
Moscow City Bar Association. Legal services to foreign nationals, expats and international businesses. Family disputes, divorce, property division, alimony, paternity, parental rights, inheritance, heirs’ rights and shares, will, labour disputes, unfaithful dismissal, real estate ownership. Consultation, paper work, representation, litigation, criminal defense. |
|
|
|
|
| 567. | Independence Group
|
Independence Group
Audi, BMW, Ford, Volkswagen, Land Rover, Jaguar, Volvo, Mazda, Ford and Peugeot dealership. Multiple locations.Web: www.indep.ruE-mail: info@indep.ruAudi Center Moscow |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 570. | Shoreline
|
Shoreline
Shoreline consults on international medical insurance, life insurance, international bank accounts and currency exchange. Besides these basic protection products they also consult on how to secure an international pension, accumulate sufficient funds for international education of children and portfolio managment. Shoreline's expat management is Moscow based and has over a decade of experience servicing clients worldwide. |
|
|
|
|
| 571. | East West Tours
|
East West Tours
Travel to Russia with East West Tours. We offer a selection of tours to Russia and the Ukraine, including Moscow travel, St Petersburg tours, and Volga river cruises. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 574. | MyPoppet
|
MyPoppet
Meet beautiful Russian women interested in marriage and romance. Find your Love in Russia. Beautiful women are waiting for you. Russian dating and marriage agency is offering romance calls to Russia, introduction and translation services. Talk with your Lady from Moscow and any other russian cities. |
|
|
|
|
| 575. | Moscow Golf Club in Krylatskoe
|
Moscow Golf Club in Krylatskoe
18-hole course, a driving range with 12 platforms, children's 9-hole course, 9-hole patting-green, mini-golf course, patting-green, children’s course, bunkers, golf-simulator. |
|
|
|
|
| 576. | Dr. Charles Register BA, DC
|
Dr. Charles Register BA, DC
Dr. Charles Register is a doctor of chiropractic practicing in Moscow since 1993. Graduate of Life College of Chiropractic (Marietta, Georgia) 1992. Carson-Newman College (Jefferson City, TN) 1988 BA Biology/ BA Chemistry. Member of International Chiropractic Association and World Chiropractic Alliance. Dr. Charles speaks Russian, Arabic and his native language English. |
|
|
|
|
| 577. | Enex Movers
|
Enex Movers
Russian moving company located in Moscow. International moving services and shipping of personal effects. Full door-to-door moving services: Professional packing and custom crating; disassembly and re-assembly of furniture; land, air, sea shipping. Full and part loads; custom cleareance at origin and destination. |
|
|
|
|
| 578. | LingoTaxi
|
LingoTaxi
Expat-run taxi and transfer service for tourists, business people and everybody in Moscow and St. Petersburg. From city rides to airport transfers, city tours and chauffeur service. The complete service - from dispatching/booking till drivers - is compelety in English. All drivers speak at least fluent English, but there are drivers speaking Spanish, German, French and Romanian - for free, already included in mostly fixed fares. |
|
|
|
|
| 579. | Shiny
|
Shiny
Shiny is an innovative booking platform for connecting individuals looking for household services with English-speaking top-quality, fully vetted and trained professional cleaners. With a seamless 60-second booking process, and secure payment, Shiny is the easiest, most convenient way to book home services in Moscow. Shiny Customer Service is available in Russian, English, German, Italian and French. Get 30% off the first clean with a promo code "Expat.ru". |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 581. | Moscow Translation Agency
|
Moscow Translation Agency
Consecutive interpretation (special and general business negotiations and meetings, guidance of foreign partners, translation support for exhibitions and presentations, guest guidance, personal guidance in business trips and cruises); simultaneous interpreting; telephone negotiations with foreign partners; interpretation of theatrical performances and movies. |
|
|
|
|
| 582. | Pokrovsky Bereg
|
Pokrovsky Bereg
Arguably one of the best Moscow beaches located on the territory of "Pokrovskoe-Glebovo". High entrance fee guarantees perfect peace and quiet. English lawns and flowerbeds. Sea sand is safe and good for kids as well as children's play area with trampolines and other entertainments. For rent: barbecue, kayaks, balls and rackets for badminton. Sports: golf, tennis, volleyball, mini football. Sheltered marquees with pillows and rugs can be leased. From metro Sokol take marshrutka 12M to the terminal station. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 587. | Visa to Russia
|
Visa to Russia
Complete Russian visa support: expert Russian / CIS visa processing, single, double and multiple-entry business visas, same-day tourist Russian visa invitations, registration upon arrival in Moscow and St-Petersburg, worldwide consular services: express courier service in Washington, New York, San-Francisco, Seattle, London, Edinburg, Paris, Amsterdam, Brussels, Berlin, Bonn, Munich, Hamburg, Rome, Prague, Tokio, Seoul, visas to all CIS countries via direct arrangements with local authorities. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 589. | US Dental Care
|
US Dental Care
US Dental Care has been providing professional dental services in Moscow since 1994. The American Board-certified dentists and hygienists provide all forms of general, specialty, and children's dentistry, including cosmetic procedures, orthodontic care, implant surgery and restorations, oral surgery, periodontics, hygiene, and emergency care. US Dental Care maintains only the highest standards of sterilization in a family-friendly environment. Direct billing with many worldwide and Russian insurance companies, corporate membership, and individual health plans are also available. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 591. | Business Services Moscow
|
Business Services Moscow
Only high-class rental services of cars with professional drivers. Park contains only latest models of light vehicles Mercedes Benz of E-class (business), S-class (luxury) and minibuses. Cars are fully equipped and stay in a perfect technical conditions. They are driven only by English-speaking professionals with accident-free experience of driving. Dispatchers and managers work 24/7 and are ready to organize any kind of transport services for you at any time you want. Ways of payment: cash, cards (AmEx, VISA, MasterCard), invoice. |
|
|
|
|
| 592. | Senezh Lake
|
Senezh Lake
Senezh Lake is one of the cleanest and quietest places in Moscow region - you are forbidden to use motorboats on its territory. On the beach there's everything needed: from an ice-cream to boat hiring, and even kite-serf-club "Senezh" (www.ozero-senej.ru). Here you may take a lesson of kitting. Fishers are welcomed to hire outfit and catch a pike or just buy it from some lucky. To attend this beautiful place, go to Podsolnechnaya train station (from Leningradsky railway station), then by bus 25 or 30; or drive to Solnechnogorsk, then turn to Timyanonvo at the police post - your destination is a 65th km of Leningradskoye sh. |
|
|
|
|
| 593. | SM-Clinic
|
SM-Clinic
Multidisciplinary clinic with more than 4500 specialists, including: 25 professors, 72 Doctors of Medical Sciences, 432 PhD. 15 clinics in Moscow providing following services for adults and children: Outpatient medical care; Medical services as part of inpatient care; Dentistry; Doctor home visit. Specialized medical services for adults: Oncology treatment; Plastic surgery; Infertility treatment; Cosmetology. Since 2019 assist foreigners in English and Chinese: Online consultation about services; Appointments; Visit assistance; Organization of medical case conferences; Medical translation; Personal coordinator. |
|
|
|
|
| 594. | The British International School
|
The British International School
The British International School has successfully worked in the field of educational services in Russia for the past 27 years, providing a first-class education in the best traditions of British schools. It is accredited by the Council of British International Schools. At present the BIS consists of 6 schools located in different areas of Moscow: in the North (Voikovskaya Metro Station) and in the South (Profsoyuznaya and Novoyasenevskaya Metro Stations). The programme in 5 BIS schools is based upon the English National Curriculum. These schools are staffed by highly qualified specialists from the United Kingdom and other English speaking countries. Children of 65 nationalities, aged from 3 to 18 years study there. The British International School has been offering the International Baccalaureate and A-level programmes. |
|
|
|
|
| 595. | Bank of Cyprus
|
Bank of Cyprus
On October 31, 2008 the Bank of Cyprus Group acquired an 80 percent stake in Uniastrum Bank for $567 mn. Established in 1899, the Group is a major international holding commanding leadership positions in the banking and financial services sector in Cyprus and Greece and over 30% of the domestic banking market. As a result of the transaction, Uniastrum’s charter capital increased by $50 mn. The Group’s purchase of an 80% interest in the Bank remains the biggest investment in the Russian banking sector by a Cypriot or Greek financial institution. The transaction was finalized once permission was granted by the central banks of Cyprus and Russia, as well as by Russia’s Antimonopoly Service. On November 19, 2008, against the backdrop of official talks between the Russian President, Dmitri Medvedev, and the President of Cyprus, Demetris Christofias, Uniastrum Bank and the Bank of Cyprus Group signed a Memorandum to implement a joint three-year (2009-2011) SME lending program in Russia worth 15 billion rubles. Many branches in Moscow. Find the appropriate on the web site. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 596. | C.D.L. (Restaurant of the Central House of Writers)
|
C.D.L. (Restaurant of the Central House of Writers)
The restaurant of the Central House of Writers (C.D.L.) is a famous writer's house in the historical center of Moscow. It is a well-known meeting place for Muscovites and foreign visitors for half a century (from the 1890s to present). The restaurant is situated in a mansion built in 1887 by order of Prince Boris Svyatopolk-Chetvertinsky. Visiting of C.D.L. restaurant is the only opportunity to feel inside the historical space of the earl chambers in Moscow. The impressive history of the building and its unique architecture, colorful interior and, of course, gastronomy with recipes by the best chefs in XIX-XX centuries. |
|
|
|
|
| 597. | Frendy's
|
Frendy's
Boast a summer patio which, has over 200 planted trees creating a nice and cozy atmosphere. Guests can dine on classic american fare, among lush greenery - a rarity in the center of Moscow. Authentic American diner food in the heart of Moscow. Classic home-made breakfasts, thick and juicy burgers, and exciting desserts are just a small part of the large menu which caters to every taste and mood. Plus the cozy, youthful atmosphere, pretty waitresses, and a guarantee that you won't leave on an empty stomach will make you feel like you're back home. All major credit cards are accepted. |
|
|
|
|
| 598. | Moo Moo
|
Moo Moo
Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 599. | Tanuki
|
Tanuki
Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 600. | Kishmish
|
Kishmish
Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 601. | Elki-Palki
|
Elki-Palki
Numerous locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 602. | Taras Bulba
|
Taras Bulba
Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 603. | Shesh-Besh
|
Shesh-Besh
Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 604. | Yaposha
|
Yaposha
Multiple locations throughout Moscow. Find out details on the web site. |
|
|
|
|
| 605. | Coffee House
|
Coffee House
Vast Moscow coffeehouse chain with more than 200 restaurants. |
|
|
|
|
| 606. | Khizhina (Hut)
|
Khizhina (Hut)
European and authentic Georgian cuisines. Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 607. | Shagal
|
Shagal
Certificated by glat kosher certificate by Moscow rabbinical court. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 609. | City Space
|
City Space
Splendid view of Moscow from the 34th floor of Swissotel Red Hills. |
|
|
|
|
| 610. | The River
|
The River
The place has an elegant and cozy Restaurant Hall for 130 persons and a terrace with a spectacular view over Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 611. | Gastronome
|
Gastronome
Restaurant under the glass dome on the roof of the trading center. Splendid view on Moscow-river, embankment and Novy Arbat. |
|
|
|
|
| 612. | Shokoladnitsa
|
Shokoladnitsa
Well-known Moscow chain with multiple locations around the city. Its name is translated as "a pot of hot chocolate." The chocolate items on the menu are probably your best bet here. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 615. | Panorama
|
Panorama
The interior of the Panorama Restaurant is fitted out with simple classic style. The tables are set out in such a way that every guest has a captivating view on the city of Moscow from the height of 80 metres. Live pop- and classical music from 20:00 until 23:00. |
|
|
|
|
| 616. | Sumosan
|
Sumosan
Offering a tranquil Japanese atmosphere, Sumosan serves some of the best in Japanese cuisine and sushi in Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 617. | Mumiy Troll Music Bar
|
Mumiy Troll Music Bar
A music bar right in the heart of Moscow, within walking distance from the Kremlin. Open 24 hours. The Mumiy Troll Music Bar in Moscow is part of Ilya Lagutenko's (frontman of Mumiy Troll band) project for an international chain of live music bars. The first of these has been successfully running in Vladivostok since 2011. It's a great place for meeting friends and having a good time.The house specialty is Pacific cuisine, including Pacific whelk, sea cucumber, laminaria, fernbrake sautéed with meat and veggies pacific style and other delicacies. The international bar offers a unique selection of Asian drinks such as Korean beer and soju, Chinese lagers and Japanese whisky. Meals are available 24/7, including early breakfasts. Free wi-fi. Menu in Russian and English. Get taxi service. Live performances by Russian and foreign bands every night. DJ programs. Superb live sound and a broad selection of performers from the Asia-Pacific region and Russia's Far East. How to get here: Metro "Okhotny Ryad", "Teatralnaya", follow the direction to hotels The Ritz-Carlton and National, Ermolova Theatre, Central Telegraph. Just 1 min walk. |
|
|
|
|
| 618. | Apple Bar
|
Apple Bar
Apple Bar is the perfect setting for drinks, conversation and people-watching in the centre of Moscow. With its comfortable and stylish setting, Apple Bar is a chic and intimate lounge serving classical and original innovative cocktails made by mixing seasonal fruits, berries and herbs. |
|
|
|
|
| 619. | Prime Star
|
Prime Star
"Fast casual / Fast service". Healthy, tasty, home-made food, client-friendly packaging. Multiple locations throughout Moscow. Check other locations on Prime Star's web-site. |
|
|
|
|
| 620. | Bar Italy
|
Bar Italy
On the corner of Trubnaya street and Bolshoy Sukharevsky lane there is an Italian bar with original cuisine, wide wine choice and cocktail lounge. Original dough recipe from South Italy, New-York and Moscow. Exceptional pizza, bruschetta (360 RUR for 3), burrata with fresh tomatoes, topping by pesto sauce (540 RUR) and ribs burger (440 RUR). Breakfast until 16:00. |
|
|
|
|
| 621. | Golden Apple
|
Golden Apple
The Restaurant is the best kept dining secret in the centre of Moscow. It offers a selection of simple and tasty European dishes with an emphasis on fresh and high quality products served in the contemporary atmosphere of harmony and fashion. The lunch and dinner menus change with seasons and feature a choice of truly gourmet specialties complemented by the impressive and carefully chosen wine list. |
|
|
|
|
| 622. | Wok Street Cafe
|
Wok Street Cafe
Noodles in boxes. Large assortment of Asian homemade noodles with a variety of flavors. For only 300 RUR you can have a quick snack or take away delicious noodles with vegetables, meat, poultry or seafood. Besides, the menu includes Pan-Asian cuisine dishes - tom yam, spring rolls, fried rice, etc. Wide selection of Asian beers. Place serves alcohol too. Delivery all over Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 623. | Addis Abeba Cafe
|
Addis Abeba Cafe
Possibly the only place to get Ethiopian food in Moscow. So if you have a hankering for heavily spiced slow cooked Ethiopian “stews” and spongy injera to swath it all up with then this is where to get it. The oddly Southwestern interior takes on a more authentic vibe on the weekends from 2-4 p.m. when they perform a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony where bulbous ceramic pots of spiced coffee are slowly brewed over live coals. |
|
|
|
|
| 624. | Il Patio
|
Il Patio
IL Patio are family restaurants, which means parents and children are frequent visitors. We have an entertaining children's menu for our young guests: pizza in the form of a turtle or Chipollino,"Chocolate picture" dessert, frosty milk shakes and tropical juices that are good for your child's health. While our chefs are preparing your order, keep the kids busy with drawing: we have special coloring menus and crayons for all! Multiple locations throughout Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 625. | Chelsea
|
Chelsea
Gastropub is a mix of gastronomy and a classical pub. Businessmen, politicians, expats and other Moscow dandies will feel comfortable in the interior of an English club. 50 sorts of whisky, the wide wine list and fresh beer will be the worthy complement to the dishes of the chief cook. Our cuisine is English and international, it has absorbed all the variety of the gastronomical traditions of former British colonies. We are going to organize the tours of famous chef cooks to our restaurant. And now, let’s taste the menu, watch football and have a nice time! |
|
|
|
|
| 626. | Shinok
|
Shinok
Since its opening in 1997, Shinok is rightfully considered to be the «most Ukrainian restaurant in Moscow». Previously designed as a cozy farm with charming authentic interior, which is admired by Catherine Deneuve, Mylene Farmer, Gerard Depardieu, James Cameron and many others, it has been recently recreated in a completely new style. From now on, Shinok is not only a place where one can try a mix of modern and traditional Ukrainian home food, but also relax and enjoy the brand-new loft interior concept of the restaurant. |
|
|
|
|
| 627. | Chemodan (Suitcase)
|
Chemodan (Suitcase)
Chemodan Restaurant, a culinary theatre of a new Siberian cuisine, offering rare dishes cooked to C19th recipes from the Yenisei region. The restaurant boasts its own deliveries of Siberian ingredients of controlled origin: Altai game (boar, roe deer, elk, bear), North Yenisei fish (muksun, broad whitefish, Siberian White salmon, tugun, grayling). Chemodan is the only place in Moscow where you can taste genuine Erofeich and Ratafia liquors. |
|
|
|
|
| 628. | Vinoteca Dissident
|
Vinoteca Dissident
Restaurant in the very center of Moscow. Panoramic view from the 5th floor. Extraordinary holiday gifts for your nearest and dearest – Unique Wine Accessories from the best French and Italian producers. Find catalogue and prices on the website. Special offer – "Sparkling Weekend" – weekend Breakfast with champagne. Over 200 sorts of wine by the glass, Italian and French cheese, home-made spreads and wine cuisine. Rare digestives. Live piano music from 19:00 on Thursdays and Fridays. |
|
|
|
|
| 629. | Gadget Studio
|
Gadget Studio
Gadget Studio is the world first gadget pub made by a famous Russian tech lover and journalist for people who love technologies. We have special gadget menu where you can order for free powerbank, headphones, selfie stick and many more gadget accesoires. It's three venues in one: restaurant, small cinema and lounge, with lots of TV screens. Broadcasting all major hitech events and football games: Gadget Studio is official restaurant of Russian football champion Lokomotive Moscow. |
|
|
|
|
| 630. | Red and White (Holiday Inn Moscow Lesnaya)
|
Red and White (Holiday Inn Moscow Lesnaya)
Every Sunday from 13:00 until 18:00. Adults - 2600 Rbs, children under 6 - free, 6-12 years old - 1300 Rbs. Gourmet brunch featuring the usual brunch favorites like smoked salmon, marinated tiger shrimp, Milanese salami, Chorizo, smoked duck breast and roast beef. Drinks on offer include sparkling wine, vodka, wines, beer and soft drinks. Every weekend brings a different theme and special seasonal offerings. Live music for the grown-ups and clowns to keep the kids entertained.
|
|
|
|
|
| 631. | Avenue
|
Avenue
The second and probably the last Ephiopian cafe in Moscow. The menu mainly offers "beyayanetu" dishes including injera with various fillings. If you are searching for an unforgettable experience you should definitely try hot "senig" pepper, filled by vegetables cut into small pieces. A tiny piece of such pepper makes one feel like his tongue has been set on fire and each pore of his skin seems to open up as wide as possible. Those who are not eager to experiment can enjoy classic Ethiopian coffee or honey drink "tej", various exotic cream soups, salads and hot dishes. Besides Ephiopian cuisine the cafe offers West African menu as well. |
|
|
|
|
| 632. | Scandinavia
|
Scandinavia
Excellent Swedish owned restaurant in the center of Moscow serving international cuisine with an emphasis on grilled meats, cured fish, and the tantalizing flavors of Southeast Asia. The food, service, and atmosphere are impeccable without being pretentious. Prices are high but the quality of the experience makes the cost of having lunch or dinner at Scandinavia seem like pocket change. The Tapid smoked salmon with nutmeg potato, spinach purri and dill burre blanc is divine and the "study in sorbet" is a study in homemade delectability. Also check out Scandinavia's famous outdoor summer cafe. |
|
|
|
|
| 633. | Coffeemania
|
Coffeemania
Coffeemania is a popular brand of Moscow City coffee-shops chain. The best possible choice of coffee-drinks based on elite Italian espresso blend specially roasted by Musetti family. Coffeemania's coffee-drinks menu includes about 30 espresso-based recipes and a large variety of exclusive cakes & pastries made at our own confectionary work-shop. Coffeemania also suggests a choice of popular food & snacks like soups, salads, sandwiches, omlettes etc. Coffeemania is a free-smoking zone. Family friendly place. Cash in roubles only. Smoking free zone. |
|
|
|
|
| 634. | Lebedinoe Ozero (Swan Lake)
|
Rain, Rain Go Away…
This has been one of the rainiest summers I can remember in Moscow. I am not used to carrying around umbrellas in the summer, and unfortunately have a habit of constantly forgetting them when I do – already on my fourth one. Thankfully we finally now seem to be seeing real summer weather, providing this often grey city and its inhabitants the opportunity to enjoy the outdoors and its many outdoor cafes that sprout up in summer like mushrooms after a, er, hard rain.
Lebedinoe Ozero, “Swan Lake,” is one such cafe worth a visit – even if the skies are cloudy. Nestled in a corner of Neskuchny Sad behind Gorky Park, on the bank of the Golitsyn Pond, Lebedinoe Ozero provides a quaint sanctuary from Moscow’s bustle, and a quiet, more civilized spot away from some of Gorky Park’s carnival atmosphere establishments and crowds. The fact that Lebedinoe Ozero is not easy to find is in fact one of its highlights.
Created by the same folks who brought this city Solyanka (see my past review) and the successful project club Kak na Kanarax of last summer that was moored a stones-throw away nearby on the Moscow River, Lebedinoe Ozero is a unique fusion mix of food and interior. Outfitted with rustic wooden furniture from Thailand, a tiki torch lighted walkway, sheet metal roof, bright fabrics and pillows, and even a small swimming pool, Lebedinoe Ozero recreates a summer vacation atmosphere of a small, hidden beachside hut you would retire to after a day of swimming in the surf, or – as we did – spending a relaxing rainy afternoon waiting for grey clouds to pass.
With summer sandals on our feet, my dinner companion – one of Moscow’s PR professionals (what’s with all the PR people in Moscow these days?) - and I enjoyed a recent cloudy Sunday afternoon under Lebedinoe Ozero’s tin roof contemplating our summer vacation plans. Although quite easily accessible by the pedestrian bridge connecting Neskuchny Sad with Frunzenskaya Naberezhnaya, we arrived via car (convertible in fact, courtesy of my PR companion, to add to the inner vacation experience) through a hidden driveway of off Leninskiy Prospekt and parked under said bridge (courtesy of a 100 ruble note to a park security guard who suddenly appeared).
The open-air restaurant is sheltered by a small thicket of trees, and appears as if a clearing in a small “jungle a la Russe.” We settled in at a slab wooden table overlooking the pond, an idyllic scene completed with weeping willows whispering in the breeze, a mother duck and her chirping ducklings, and the namesake swans gliding about on the water’s surface. The menu, not too surprisingly, resembled that of Solyanka’s, a mix of Asian, European, Russian-Caucasian (lyula kebab, 360 RUR, and Osetinskiy Pirog, 320 RUR), and Lebanese. As if an answer to my scorn for pseudo-Japanese cuisine in this city, there was – thankfully – no sign of Philadelphia rolls and other forms of ever-present Moscow sushi.
After ordering a pina colada (310 RUR) and a pot of tea (260 RUR) from their extensive cocktail & drinks menu (fresh juices – 280-390 RUR), we perused the eclectic selection of appetizers (160-640 RUR) including toast tips and salmon (240 RUR), tongue salad (360 RUR) and agreed on the hummus and pita bread (220 RUR) to encourage our appetites. The portion of hummus itself was in fact not enough for two, leaving us to cross swords of rather oily and chewy pita bread for every bit of the yummy bean paste goodness that, while tasty, was not quite at the standard of other hummus dishes around town.
I seemed to have lost that battle, but was soon consoled by what was perhaps some of the best okroshka (without meat – 250 RUR) – a perfect soup for summer (Russia at least does have soup right) - that I have had in Moscow. My dinner companion skipped ahead right to the main course of steamed salmon (420 RUR), a big succulent filet of pink fish flesh that received good PR at the table. Although the other main courses (290-470 RUR) of fish, chicken, and meat, were tempting, I gave into the appeal of a salad with sliced tuna (470 RUR) – another dish befitting summer.
The light summer meal made for an ideal way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon, and for a few moments I felt as if indeed I was thousands of kilometers away in waterside cafe in southeast Asia waiting for the rain to pass and the sun to appear – and in fact it soon did, but not warming us enough to take a dip in the pool by the bar. However, the on-site Thai massage service – administered by, what I was told, true Thai professionals – was an attractive post-meal option that we did, alas, forgo this time.
Now that the sun and weather do seem to be giving us a real summer, I intend to make a return trip – perhaps as a pre-club spot for a long weekend night. Lebedinoe Ozero offers a good menu of some tasty dishes, but its true appeal is its relaxing, casual atmosphere for an evening with friends or an afternoon of summer dreaming. Alas, in Moscow, summer goes by much too fast. Enjoy it while you can. |
|
|
|
|
| 635. | Khacha Puri
|
Poorly-run and over-priced Georgian Cafe
The idea ought to be a winner - delicious Georgian cuisine, in a warm friendly atmosphere, with a great location a few minutes off Pushkin Square. Unfortunately, very little of the promise is delivered. I ought to say that on the evening of our visit, a large table of “VIP” guests was commanding the attention of the restaurant staff, and we struggled to get the attention of waiters. I’d gone with a Russian friend - the waitress conversed entirely in Russian with her, and ignored me completely - even having my friend “translate” for me (although my Russian is up to TV-interview standard). I found this extremely rude.
“Khacha Puri” (named after the famous Georgian cheese breads) is an informal cafe arranged on two floors, with a minimalist steel-and-glass design that avoids the usual cliches of Georgian cafes. Seating is cramped and hardly relaxing - the whole cafe is very smoky. There is some naff live piano music that conjures up the atmosphere of a funeral. The menu comprises a shortlist of Georgian classic dishes - rather shorter than you will find in most other Georgian restaurants in Moscow, in fact. Mostly these dishes are adequately prepared - but there is nothing at all special to justify prices that are averagely 30-40% higher than in other Georgian cafes.
We began with house-speciality cocktails - a Pomegranate Mohito (290 RUR) that was refreshingly tangy (although not really much like a Mohito), and a rather horrible Grape Mohito (260 RUR) which went undrunk after a few sips. We ordered a khachapuri each, and decided to share the rest of the dishes, in usual Georgian fashion. The Red Lobio (bean salad, 270 RUR) was dry and lacked flavouring - the usual tart-plum sauce was missing. The same was true of the Eggplant Pkhali (320 RUR) - obviously prepared by a garlic-hating puritan who was being parsimonious with the olive-oil. Considering that you can pick-up a portion of delicious pkhali from a Georgian deli for half this price, I was feeling very short-changed at this point.
The food took an age to come. In fact everything took an age, and we’d been sitting in the restaurant for forty minutes before even the first items (home-made lemonade 90 RUR, home-made Tarkhun soft-drink 120 RUR) arrived. There’s no evidence of any management in the restaurant. The Grilled Vegetables (200 RUR) were very nicely prepared and presented - although they lacked some kind of sauce (of which Georgian cuisine has dozens) to accompany them. The Lamb Chops (490 RUR) were excellent, and juicily delicious. We also tried a Salmon Khinkhali (one piece = 90 RUR) - passable if unremarkable.
Finally the khachapuri cheese breads arrived - we took an Imeretian khachapuri (one of the simpler kinds, for 190 RUR), and an Adzharian khachapuri (240) with the traditional egg topping. Since these are the house speciality, there was every reasonable expectation that they ought to be good - and indeed they are, if a bit on the small side.
The service isn’t just slow - it’s shoddy. I had popped into “Khacha Puri” on a previous occasion (when they were nearly empty, at 10pm on a Sunday night) and had found the service brusque. This second visit was by way of giving them a second chance, but frankly it was no better.
If you’ve lived in Moscow for any time, you’ll almost certainly already have a favourite Georgian cafe or restaurant. I lived opposite one for eight years, and every visit was always a pleasure - smiling waiters, genial hospitality, great food, and a warm atmosphere. If those are your criteria for a Georgian meal, you’ll be sadly disappointed by Khacha Puri. I struggled to be more positive about this restaurant, but couldn’t find much to praise. After a long wait for indifferent food, we couldn’t be bothered to wait still longer for desserts or coffees, and left to have a coffee along Tverskaya instead. |
|
|
|
|
| 636. | The Apartment
|
The Apartment, a restaurant-slash-bar along Savvinskaya embankment nearish Kievsky Vokzal, claims to be the first New York loft-style restaurant. Unlike many Moscow dining establishments vying for a title of “first in Moscow,” or “only in Moscow,” I believe this place actually lives up to its claims. I have yet to see any establishment comparable in design, service and lack of pretension. In fact, it already seems to be a big hit and it hasn’t even officially opened to the public yet. (Hint: taking the metro? Then I recommend catching a gypsy cab after crossing the fancy bridge - this is not a pleasant wintertime stroll.)
The owners based their concept on New York’s Campbell Apartment bar, but expanded it both in terms of space and what’s on offer. The space is huge, open, and divided into different 'rooms’; there are no walls, of course, in keeping true to the definition of 'loft.' Each 'room' has a slightly different feel about it, and the careful attention to detail in designing each space is something you just can’t help but notice (check out the bathroom!!). Some areas are more private, while others will place their guests in the center of attention - if they want; you can also opt to have the floor-to-ceiling curtains pulled closed. Some of the areas also boast a view of the Moscow River.
As the|apartment is not yet officially open to the public, the final version of the menu is not quite ready. Instead of making our own selections this evening, the chef, who is Russian but recently returned after 15 years of living and garnering culinary experience in France, came out to speak with us and let us know what was available that night. The cuisine style, we were told, is classical French with a twist. Now since the menus aren’t quite ready yet, there will be one important detail missing from this review: exact prices. When I spoke with Katya, the owner, she explained that the restaurant is aiming at mid-range prices, with dinner (without drinks) running at approximately $60-70.
We chose a table in the 'breakfast area.' I ordered a vodka tonic (served with Beluga vodka) and Mr. Polly started with fizzy water, and ended with a dry red. We were served a small appetizer of kalamata olives marinated in garlic, which was quite garlicky (I love garlic, though) and mixed well with the rich flavor of the olives. Next came our salads - a carefully presented pedestal of shrimp and mushrooms topped with mixed greens in light vinaigrette, crowned with four butterflied jumbo shrimp in a flavorful but light, Asian style sauce. This plate had the potential for many things to go wrong - the sauce, with its traces of teriyaki, could easily have been overpowering; the shrimp, as so often happens in Moscow, could have been overcooked after being defrosted, resulting in a mushy, smooshy mess. But the textures were perfect, the flavors intermingled just the way you'd want them too, and nothing was smooshy or mushy.
Next was a small trout salad treat. Now, ordinarily I’m not a big fan of fish, but I do make an effort to try new things. Well, sometimes anyway. We were presented with little cylinders of smoked trout bits carefully wrapped around broccoli florets. I can honestly say I was very pleasantly surprised with the gentle, non-fishy flavor of the trout, which is probably the most fish I’ve eaten in a very long time.
Next we were served our main entrees: French cut veal chops in a mild mushroom sauce garnished minimally with tiny potatoes and tiny stewed cherry tomatoes. While we probably would have appreciated a slightly more substantial side dish, everything was very nicely presented and packed with yumminess. The veal was definitely one of the most tender veal experiences I have ever had; the meat practically melted in our mouths, was juicy and went wonderfully well with the accompanying mushroom sauce.
After dinner, Mr. Polly asked for some black tea and a dessert: a delicate slice of parfait in 'fruit soup,' which featured fresh strawberries and rose petals. The serving size was just right - not too big - and the sweetness factor was just right, not overdone.
During our evening there, the staff was attentive and helpful, always keeping an eye on you in case you need anything. No hovering, no hounding - any questions we had were answered knowledgably and quickly, and we really didn’t have to wait very long at all for anything. For a place that hasn't even officially opened yet, the|apartment seems to have things up and running without any hitches. Frankly, I wasn't expecting the night to go so smoothly.
Other plans for this new Moscow experience include a fully decked-out wine boutique near the entrance downstairs. This space will feature 2500 wines - now that's an extensive wine list. Not only will the boutique feature wine tasting events, it will also offer many wines by the glass, so you won't have to splurge on whole bottles - unless you want to.
Music and entertainment is another important factor for The Apartment’s ambiance and style. Michael Adam of Buddha Bar fame has been brought onboard as music director, and he will perform at least once a month. There will also be live music (one of the first things to catch your eye as you walk in is the white baby grand on a raised platform near the welcome bar). Musical entertainment will predominantly be jazz, cabaret, and background-type music - nothing that’ll make you have to scream across the table in order to have a conversation.
And of course there’s this week’s special pre-opening Thanksgiving Day feast, thanks to the owners, who have spent several years in the States and know what it's all about. They learned to love our special autumn holiday and are now offering to share it with Moscow expats and their families. Note: I have been assured that Thanksgiving Day at the|apartment will be family friendly (i.e. kids welcome!). If you haven’t made your T-Day plans yet, definitely consider booking a table for this Thursday (23 November 2006).
In all, we both loved the way everything looked, the style, the unpretentiousness (a real rarity in this town!), and especially the enthusiasm of the staff and owners. This is one place we'd definitely like to go back to once the doors are open to all. |
|
|
|
|
| 637. | Cheapside
|
Russians who learned their English with the help of Jane Austen (or more likely the smouldering Colin Firth as Mr Darcy) probably know Cheapside best as a London location sneerily dismissed amid the snobbish banter of the Bennett sisters. The issue was its connection with ‘trade’, a lowly pursuit inappropriate for persons of true wealth and breeding, even though they had no scruple about buying goods in what was once London’s most fashionable shopping street.
Today, of course, trade has fewer negative connotations outside of the blue-blooded aristocracy, and the commercial hub in Belaya Ploshchad is one of Moscow’s more conspicuously busy business districts.
As a result it’s also picked up a cluster of bars and cafes – including a few representatives of Moscow’s burgeoning gourmet fast food trend – to feed the Stakhanovite shock troops of the new economic era in between vigorous sessions on tablet and Mac.
Cheapside Josper Bistro, the latest addition to the Coffee Mania portfolio, fits this branding well. The decor, described in one Russian magazine as ‘restaurants for successful men’ is loft-inspired: the kitchen, like at the owners’ Italian restaurant Barmalini, is open, although staff slaving over a hot grill make for a less exciting show than the dough-juggling pizza chefs at the partner venue. Elsewhere its bare brickwork, a retro fan and a large communal table dominating the room with a scattering of side tables for slightly more privacy. The restaurant seats 52, but there’s an expectation that people will hunker down together rather than isolate themselves on individual tables.
The menu is similarly unpretentious: meat and fish, cooked over an open flame. Pride of place goes to the burgers, with a wide assortment of diverse approaches to the old beef-in-a-bun formula. We went for the Mexican (700 RUR), which was a surprisingly unspicy affair, even allowing for Russia’s general wariness of hot food. However, this wasn’t really the aim: instead of powering up the chili and letting rip, the chefs aimed to create a more subtle combination of flavours with a hint of fresh lime giving an unexpected lightness to the palate. Not quite as expected, but pleasant. The meat was good, among the best I’ve tried in Moscow and certainly tasty enough to encourage repeat visits to explore the other burgers on offer. Prices might be uppish compared with the old favorites at Starlite Diner or Beverly Hills, but there’s more imagination in how the burgers are put together and – on this evidence, at least – the service is a bit more attentive than can sometimes be the case as the longer established chains.
Unlike most burger joints in town, sides are ordered separately; there’s no standard burger set slapped down whether you like it or not. So, if you want fries, make sure to order them for an extra 150 RUR. Coleslaw (250 RUR) is one of the options and it also opened up one of the great mysteries of Russian kitchens. Cabbage and carrot are key features of local food. Few Russian salads are complete with a generous slathering of mayo. So why is it that coleslaw, that stable of carrot, cabbage and mayo, always comes out very different here? This one was an impressively healthy, low fat option with just a hint of mayo to keep it together. Once again, not bad, but not quite as expected.
There’s also a small grill menu offering meat and fish. The salmon (800 RUR) here was a success, the duck (800 RUR), sadly, was unavailable. Vegetarians who don’t eat fish might struggle to find much on the menu to attract them, however. There’s no veggie burger and meat-free options are limited to a few salads and starters. This is a kitchen that knows what it wants to cook and is happy to focus strongly on that alone.
That straightforward ‘I know what I like’ approach is part of what makes Cheapside work. Rather than try to cover too many bases, it focuses on a small group of dishes that it can do well and chases a clientele that will go for it. Ultimately Cheapside Josper Bistro is a very masculine place to eat. Maybe it’s the plate-glass surroundings of Belaya Ploshchad, redolent of the thrusting world of smart-suited business conquistadores. Maybe it’s the meat-heavy menu. Maybe it’s the TV sport quietly playing in the background.
Whatever, this isn’t really the kind of place you’d pick for a girlie cocktail night even if there are three basic cocktails listed on the menu. Indeed it’s probably not the place you’d pick for a night out anyway. This has the feel of a lunchtime haunt; a cut above fast food or the dubious merits of the bizniz lanch, without burdening itself with the pretentions of a full-blown restaurant experience. That’s where it performs most strongly, and is likely to be the root of its future success in this location. |
|
|
|
|
| 638. | Verona
|
I went into my local apteka the other day, and before I'd even been served - the place had been converted into a new restaurant. Actually that isn't true, but if the pace of restaurant-openings continues, you'll be able to get coquilles Saint-Jacques on every street corner, but not a loaf of bread. Who on earth goes to all these places? Surely there aren't enough diners in Moscow to keep them all in business? A huge number of them fail, of course - some because they can't attract and keep a regular clientele, others because the business-plan was worked out on a calculator with a key missing, but many because the owner-originated concept was rubbish to start with. The brief longevity of Moscow eateries is rapidly approaching parity with those in NYC - "still open after two years" is something of an achievement.
Can restaurants really buck this "wo-year lifespan" trend? With this in mind we set off this week to Verona, one of Moscow's most long-standing Italian eateries, whose genial padrone Enrico Caramelli has already clocked-up ten years of putting the cuisine of his native Veneto on the plates of Muscovites. Verona's location is as modest as its prices - tucked down an otherwise featureless street that most will know only as part of the Taganskaya one-way traffic system. And here was the first surprise on a midweek summer evening when you could have swung a cat in your choice of central Moscow's finest, Verona was packed? If we'd not booked a table, the only choice would have been the summer-dining area outside - and even brooding black clouds and thunder-rumbles in the sky found the tables outside pretty full too. A special occasion? "No, it's always like this, the regular customers come all the time - Russians, Italians, people who live locally, it's that kind of place" explains the charmingly shy owner. There's another factor that can't be coincidental, though - this is some of the best-value eating in town. Many of the (huge) pizzas go for under 200Rbs, and it was clear that a lot of the clientele weren't celebrating or entertaining - they were just getting supper on the way home from work. Verona is in the great tradition of Italian local family restaurants - it's not grand or pompous, the interior won't wow your new girlfriend, and the service is far from fawning you come here per mangiare - to eat.
The retro 50's Italian music was a little loud for a conversation, so we opted to risk the rain and sit outside anyhow. A salad Caprese (209Rbs) quick followed us outside - this is a place where people arrive hungry, and although the service lacks charm, it's ruthlessly efficient. Caprese is a salad that's almost invariably served indifferently - because there's almost "nothing to it" (slices of tomatoes and mozzarella), everything depends on the freshness of the ingredients, and this was sumptuousness itself, with some tangy basil and the lightest of dressings. If the piazzas are the glory of the city of Verona, then this Verona's glory is its pizzas. Enrico Caramelli has flown the flag for traditional thin'n'crispy pizza for over a decade, and his special pizza ovens are still in splendid condition if our Pizza Margherita With Rucola (189Rbs) was anything to go by? Yes, it's exactly that - a regular margherita pizza, with some rucola thrown into the still-melting cheese as it's brought to the table. If "margherita" means "the dullest cheap pizza on the menu" to you, then this is a revelation - there's a piquancy to the tomato sauce, the cheese is luscious, and the base is eminently munchable. We shared one - and there was still heaps. At which point the sky thundered more loudly - and we fled indoors whilst there was still a free table there to migrate to. Rather nicer, in my view, than the dining room at ground level is the basement area, which has been newly fitted-out. Phone early if you want to get one of the smart large low-level seating areas (of which there are only two). Don't be deterred by an unmarked staircase and an apparently secret door to this area - step inside, and it's charming, with no Godfather-style hoodlums whatsoever! These were all taken though - so we got stuck into our main courses upstairs.
The menu at Verona runs for pages - there are three pages of fish dishes alone, and even more for the meat entrees. After much indecision my dining associate plucked the Beef Medallions (299Rbs) from the meat courses. This turned out to be a wise choice, because the enormous pizza left us needing very little in the way of main courses (and you could cheerfully have done without). The verdict was "could be a little more tender, but they're delicious anyhow". I took a Swordfish Steak - one of the pricier items on the menu at 489Rbs, but worth every last kopek. Lightly pan-fried with the tiniest suntan of gold, some lemon juice was the only accompaniment it needed.
Heading towards midnight, the place was thinning out as we looked at the desserts - you have to be fairly tolerant of the staff dragging the veranda flowerpots indoors towards closing time. I was already comfortably well-fed at this point, but the corner I nibbled (purely for reviewing purposes, you understand) of my colleagues Tiramisu (120Rbs) proved it to be the real article indeed - a good strong coffee-shot and not stingy on the liqueur content amidst the cream and sponge. I'd intended to bring the curtain down with a double espresso, and I did - but at Enrico's urging, I was tempted to an iced liqueur shot of Limoncello. I was instantly hooked, and I'm already hunting a source for this wonderful stuff, simply the lemoniest alcoholic drink you ever tasted.
It's not grand, it's not imposing. Bring your business clients here - if you want to get a reputation as a cheapskate, that is. But the food is fab, and if you look at the price on the frozen disc of cheese-topped cardboard in your supermarket, it's no wonder they're packing-out Verona to have the real thing for little more (and no washing up either). If Woody Allen lived in Moscow - he'd eat at Verona. |
|
|
|
|
| 639. | Mio
|
Fruity Daytime Clubbing Experience
Having been briefed to specifically review Mio's food, rather than its music or ambience, I decided to make a reservation for lunch rather than in the evening in the hope that I wouldn't be distracted by the atmosphere and could therefore concentrate 100% on the food. I should imagine the place is really quite buzzing at night. Reservations are essential on Friday and Saturdays and recommended at all times for larger groups.
Mio, fashionable among the young trendy Russian set, launched itself as a DJ cafe, but is now trying to establish itself as a worthy eatery too. One method of food marketing they have adopted is a weekly mail out of lunch menus to regular customers, who also include diplomats from the nearby French embassy. Slightly apprehensive about hanging out in a nightclub during daylight hours, imagining dingy, smoky surroundings, I was pleasantly surprised by the light, fresh and clean restaurant area. The comfy sofa we collapsed onto was very welcome.
As lunch was scheduled for the Morning After The Night Before, Natasha and I were both in need of detox so ordered fresh carrot and apple juices (140rbl). We then studied the very extensive menu which includes summer dishes, meat, fish, pasta, salads and the inevitable standard page of sushi. The cuisine is mostly Italian and French (with the token Japanese) and it is perhaps worth noting that the menus are only in Russian at the moment, although they are in the process of being translated into English.
I sampled the Duck Salad with Pineapple (210rbl) which was fruity and yet light and filling. It included cranberries, lettuce and tomatoes and had that too-good-to-be-true yummy but healthy taste; always an unlikely combination and one I can never quite trust. Natasha opted for a Caesar Salad with Salmon (220rbl). The dressing was wonderful and the parmesan good, although apparently the salmon could have been a little less chewy.
I then chose Pork Shashlik (120rbl) which was deliciously tender and just the right size as the main course of a light lunch. I personally think garnish is a waste of time, but my shashlik was accompanied with the most exotic looking carrot gratings I've ever seen. They looked far too glamorous to actually eat.
Natasha's main course option brings me round to a common complaint of Moscow restaurant reviewers: Why can't the Muscovites leave sushi to the experts? Her tuna rolls (170rbl) were mediocre, while her salmon sushi (80rbl) and yellow tail fish sushi (210rbl) were really below average, and one even had to be returned to the kitchen with a comment that the fish may have been off.
I am loathe having to grumble about this because I honestly enjoyed my Mio meal and would like to recommend the place, however I do feel obliged to warn any potential patrons to avoid the sushi there.
My advice is to stick to the modern European options, and your experience should be good and definitely worth the slight challenge of finding the venue. |
|
|
|
|
| 640. | Pasta della Mamma
|
When we walked into Pasta della Mamma (R.I.P. Borgo) the first thing that struck me was that they hadn't changed the interior at all. It was exactly the same. This may not be a bad thing, but I thought it was a little odd. The interior is nice enough, and the atmosphere is calm and relaxed - no snootiness. But aside from that, there really isn't anything to add to (or subtract from) what was said about Borgo.
The menu was brief with a nice selection of very appetizing items. One difference here was that Pasta della Mamma's prices are lower than Borgo's prices were, but not always by very much. Rumor has it that the owners are now targeting a more middle-class clientele.
We both ordered fizzy water (90/210Rbs) and I also got a mojito (180Rbs). Although it was served in a giant glass, the mojito was a bit of a disappointment - fairly weak with too much lemon. There is also a wine list, Aleydis pointed out Marques de Cazares (crianza 2001 - 1050Rbs/bottle) as a recommendation should I decide to get my wine on. We both liked Pasta della Mamma's oval-shaped water glasses, which fit niftily into the hand.
For starters, I ordered the shrimp with garlic butter sauce (320Rbs) and beef carpaccio with parmegiano regiano (330) and Aleydis decided to try the grilled Portobello mushroom (420Rbs). Other selections were green salad with fried goat cheese (330Rbs), and bruscetta with asparagus and lemon (270Rbs). Although we didn't try them, some of the soup selections looked very tempting, such as cream of lobster soup with shrimp (330Rbs) and artichoke soup with truffled crostini (270Rbs).
Aleydis was more than happy with her grilled portobello. I have to agree - she let me have a taste and it really was very good. I was equally as happy with the beef carpaccio, which was mild, served with ruccolla and a nice amount of parmesan, and not too much oil or balsamic. However when the shrimp came, I asked Aleydis to try them as well, and we both agreed that better shrimp has been had. The sauce was nice enough (and there was a lot of sauce - they served the shrimp with a spoon for the sauce) but the shrimp were clearly not as fresh as they could have been, and thus they were a bit chewy and stringy.
When it comes to entrees, Pasta della Mamma offers a lot of the old pasta standards. Aleydis ordered the raviolis with ricotta and spinach (450Rbs), and I opted for the spaghetti carbonara (360Rbs). We had heard from other Expat.ru posters that the portions were supposed to be big. Pasta della Mamma's menu even has a special blurb announcing that carry-out is indeed an option, and that "doggy-bags" are no problemo.
Overall the service was very good. One poster on Expat.ru had noted that most of the waitresses were closer to middle-aged as opposed to young nubile thangs. We found this to be true for the most part, and decided they were probably really going for that "Mamma" feel.
Both of our entrees were underwhelming in their own ways. Aleydis explained that her ravioli (five very large ravioli) were too plain, and that the white sauce they were served in was also bland. She said they really could use something to spice them up, especially the spinach, which she would have liked to be tangier. My pasta carbonara was generally alright - not the best I've had in Moscow, but certainly not the worst by far. My main problem was that the pasta was a little too al dente - almost to the point where I thought it might have been a good idea for the cook to boil it for at least a couple more minutes. The sauce was nice enough, there was lots of parmesan (which I liked) and very, very thinly stripped bacon. Personally, I would have liked to see more bacon meat and less translucent bacon fat, but that's just me. Overall, it was pretty heavy, and yes, the portion was big. I could only eat about a third of it, if that.
Neither Aleydis nor I could finish our entrees, and there was certainly no room left for even thinking about dessert. As Pasta della Mamma is slightly more affordable, I would probably consider going back, but probably for the appetizers and not full entrees. |
|
|
|
|
| 641. | Assaggiatore
|
Il Assaggiatore Piace il Ristorante “Assaggiatore”
The title of this review is the extent of my ‘polite’ Italian, bit and pieces of which I mostly learned from my former Italian-American boss of my restaurant days years ago, Mr. Castiglione – a tall mustached man from the southernmost point of Italy, Calabria, which might as well be Sicily. A good man and a good boss, and with memorable habits such as walking around the kitchen near closing time with a loaded pistol noticeably stuffed in his back pocket. He always said he had a good reason for it, and when I finally I asked him I didn’t bring up the subject again. He taught me other useful words not for print, but they always came in handy back then to secure one’s place in the kitchen hierarchy. In exchange I told him about great Italians that shared his last name such as Giovanni and Baldassare Castiglioni of the Renaissance, to whom he strangely bore a faint resemblance.
Assaggiatore literally means “the taster,” and in this case that was me. Assaggiatore has an excellent location, right on Ostozhenka between Kropotkinskaya and Park Kultury metro stations. For the review I decided to invite my first restaurant review companion, a Russian-Irish girl who has proven to be the best zamestitel Assaggiatore yet.
Despite having a prime location, the restaurant seems to be one of those places that is overlooked. We visited on a Saturday night, but had the place nearly to ourselves. However, the attendance that night did not reflect on the food our service. Even though Assaggiatore share the same street with top-end dining spots such as Vanil and Vertinskiy, the restaurant has a more modest approach of a nice Italian cafe with a pleasant white-washed exposed brick interior and wooden chairs. The menu features a broad range of Italian dishes from traditional Italian antipasta appetizers (carpaccios of salmon, tuna, and squid 350-420 Rbs), thin crust pizzas (480 Rbs), variety of pastas (390 – 650 Rbs), seafood (such as Chilean seabass in rosemary sauce 830 Rbs or grilled fish of your choice), and meat dishes from a wood-fired oven such as lamb with herbs (860 Rbs), beef Florentine (950 Rbs), and filet-mignon (1050 Rbs). The menu also had an excellent selection of creative side dishes, such as spinach and pine nuts (160 Rbs). The restaurant, alas, also offers a sushi menu. I swear there must be some city ordinance requiring sushi in all restaurants in Moscow.
We began with the wine list of Italian, French, and Chilean wines ranging from 180-220 Rbs a glass and – predicting I may sample some of the seafood on the menu - settled on a glass of Italian Pinto Grigio. The bilingual menu provided some good reading material, so to start off we immediately ordered focaccia with tomatoes (130 Rbs) to hold us over. Inexplicably we received a focaccia with pesto which looked and smelled so good we argued about sending it back, an argument which I later regretted I won as the pesto version did look superior in comparison.
It was tempting to sample something from each menu category, but seeing we only had one evening we decided to focus on the salads, soups, pastas, and deserts. Of the salads, my dinner date chose the avocado and grilled prawn salad (380 Rbs), which was a nice summer dish, albeit light on the avocado. Amongst a tasty selection of soups I selected the asparagus cream soup with crab meat (390 Rbs), which included bits of fresh asparagus but would have benefited from more crab meat to add more flavor to balance the combination.
The choice of a main course was challenging amidst some very good options. Noting some good seafood selections on the menu, but not wanting to walk away from an Italian restaurant without trying their pasta, I settled on the spaghetti with mussels (550 Rbs) which had an excellent sauce of garlic, fresh basil, parsley, and tomatoes. The mussels were traditionally served in the shell and the portion was quite generous, but I found the mussels themselves to be a bit chewy and perhaps not as fresh as one would find in Italy. Seeing we are in Moscow, I allowed that as a pass. The pasta itself tasted homemade and well-prepared al dente, something one does not often find in a country where things are often over boiled. Even though I was pleased with my dish, I was a bit envious of my date’s gnocchi in “Assiaggiattorre sauce,” which was a nice fresh mushroom and vegetable ragu sauce, a unique change from the standard cream sauce gnocchi usually find themselves in.
After our main courses we were both indeed already full, but could not help but order desserts – Italian panna cotta (170 Rbs), and a dish of Italian pistachio and chocolate ice cream (80 Rbs a scoop) followed by Italian espressos (110 Rbs).
For some post-meal exercise, we were graciously given a tour of the restaurant and discovered a beautiful summer terrace in the back (too cold that day to enjoy it), and a basement VIP room suitable for banquets (what’s a respectable Moscow establishment without a VIP room?).
Service was prompt and polite, food quiet satisfactory, and atmosphere pleasant. Worthy of a return trip, and also an excellent spot for lunches given its prime location. Assaggiatore also stands out for a wonderfully diverse menu to encourage repeat customers. However, my main suggestion to the restaurant management is to drop the sushi from that diversity and be a true Italian restaurant. I can only imagine what Mr. Castiglioni would have said to me had I proposed added tuna rolls to the menu of where I worked; I certainly would not have mentioned it around closing time. |
|
|
|
|
| 642. | 16 Tons
|
Upstairs / Downstairs. But How To Dress?
Founded on 31st October back in 1997, 16 Tons is already an established expat hangout, and indeed I ran into a couple of friends there who were amazed that this was my first visit, citing the place as a "Landmark of Moscow". In fact this was my first visit to any pub here - and my, what a culture shock. It was really, really English, with its home brewed ale and dark green ceiling and inexplicable fake dead fish hanging on the walls.
Our waitress had clearly been briefed that we were coming, and she was immaculate, attentive, helpful and smiley. I spent some time peering round the stained glass which separated the table booths, trying to spy on other tables to see if they were receiving less attention, but no, it seemed they were also enjoying a similar level of service.
The menu offered a wide enough choice, without being too intimidating for the indecisive. For starter I opted for the Cream of Mushroom Soup (120 rbl) which came complete with its own little pot of croutons. Croutons always seem to make soup taste better. Natasha started with the Salad with Artichoke (250 rbl), described as a comforting yet fresh and healthy successful combination of ingredients. It was also the first artichoke salad spotted in Moscow, to date.
I have to say, being in a pub, I had a real craving for scampi & chips, but alas, this was not on the menu so I settled on a beautifully presented and very filling Fillet of Chicken, served under Ground Nuts Sauce with Cuscus and Vegetables (285 rbl). Natasha chose Pork Ribs on Birch Coal (330 rbl) which (stop reading vegetarians) was about the size of half a pig. Actually, it proved to be a little difficult to eat, but because by this stage we'd probably drunk too many glasses of French house red wine (130 rbl/glass) this didn't really seem to matter any more.
We finished our downstairs experience with coffee (50 rbl) and then mentally changed gear from English Pub to Moscow Underground Culture as we ventured upstairs past the glowering face control.
16 Tons, as well as being a pub and restaurant, prides itself as being an award winning live music venue. They have music upstairs on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, and sometimes also on Wednesdays and Sundays. They have a very strict music policy with rock, rather than pop, played at weekends, and more experimental music, such as electronic, playing on Thursdays. Indeed, when we were there, the legendary Russian artist and urban philosopher Evgeny Grishkovets was playing his latest things.
Despite the fact that 16 Tons is hardly a new kid on the block, it is still keen to further links with the expat community and I can see why. If you opt for an evening there, I recommend you do the whole experience. Go for some wholesome pub nosh downstairs before some alternative indi-bopping upstairs. Your only problem will be deciding what to wear. |
|
|
|
|
| 643. | Suliko
|
If you go out for a nice meal in Amsterdam, then you eat Indonesian food, of course. In Berlin, you'll find the best Turkish food in the world, and there's no finer Indian cuisine than that served in Manchester. And in the same way, in a tradition rooted back in the soviet era, it's hard to go wrong in Russia if you go for Georgian food - the best-loved ethnic cuisine of the former USSR. Stories of Stalin's legendary all-night revels (he and his henchman Beria were both Georgians themselves) are already legendary.
Of course, the soviet days when only a few Georgian restaurants might reliably have any food available are long gone. Moscow is almost awash with Caucasian cooking - I've got a choice of three places within 100m of my house. It's hard to have a disappointing Georgian meal, however humble the establishment - the traditions of hospitality prevent it happening. However, with instructions from the Expat Site's latest glamorous assistant in hand, I trekked down to the other end of town in search of a "classic of the genre" - Suliko.
Suliko is anything but humble - it's grand and imposing, with that special combination of comfort and swagger that makes the Georgian heart pulse faster. The interior is uniquely Georgian - polished stone walls in different colours, bright lighting, whimsical carved wooden beams, the obligatory fountain flowing from the mouth of a clay urn. If the decor says anything at all, it says "this has cost a stack". The welcome is warm but politely muted - they're there when you want them, but they stay out of your face. Everything is pristine, and Suliko would make the perfect place to entertain visiting clients who've been emailing you to ask if they ought to bring their own soap or perhaps some food supplies. Even the most cautious faultfinder would visit Suliko without a new tale to tell afterwards. It's not only appropriately grand in style - there is something slightly soviet about the expansiveness of the place - but there's another handy benefit too. If your cautious clients are boring you to death, just position yourselves in the rear, larger dining-hall -“ and a live and rather dominating floorshow of Georgian singing will spare you from having to listen to any more of their stories. If, on the other hand, you actually want to be able to hear them, then request a table in the first hall instead.
The convivial style of Georgian eating lends itself best to dining in small groups. A meze of hot and cold starters is laid, and this is, in effect, the main part of the meal. Somewhat later - in fact quite a lot later sometimes - a hot main course will appear, but very much in a supporting role to the delicious selection of appetisers and starters you've already had. These are not cleared when the main course comes (unless you've finished them - which is unlikely, given the portion-size) - the main course simply arrives as reinforcements, just when you thought you were finally making some indentation on the starters.
This point is especially worth bearing in mind when looking at the prices. The financial outlay on the starters might seem out of balance - but considering that a single main course, without side-dishes, will then be easily enough for two, the final bill is not the shock you first feared. Even so, Suliko is overtly catering to the well heeled, so if you need to impress - this is the right place.
It's very easy to over-order, or to pick too many heavy items - so we took the waiter's advice, and still over-ordered. The adjapsandal (spicy tomato stew) (250Rbs) was juicy and lush, with lots of fresh bite left in the tomatoes. One of the selection of Georgian cheeses (450Rbs) was extremely salty, so the adjapsandal came in handy - as did the deliciously chewy Georgian lavash bread, which is rather similar to ciabatta in texture. My own personal favourite amongst the starters were the Aubergines Stuffed With Nuts (200Rbs) - melt-in-the-mouth tender, but not greasy in the slightest, and lightly flavoured with cardamom.
Frankly, in terms of amounts, this would already have easily been enough for the two of us. However, because Georgian food is traditionally served with a huge variety of dishes on the table, we'd been encouraged to order more dishes - and they were, it's true, excellent companions to those we already had. The problem, in a nutshell, was not too much food - but too few diners to consume it. If we'd been Georgians, of course, we'd have arrived with a whole extended family to tuck into it all.
Some satsivi (300Rbs) came next - another Georgian classic, filleted cubes of chicken served in a Circassian sauce - ground walnuts, garlic, onion, ground coriander, and some more garlic, and left to marinade (it's served at room temperature). It's on this kind of dish that Georgian restaurants divide into the men and the boys - Suliko's manhood was unquestioned, and the chicken pieces were soft tender top-quality fillets. Lobio (180Rbs) has been a vegetarian lifesaver in Moscow since the Brezhnev era at least, and Suliko's is a hearty bean stew served in an individual clay pot.
Another great Georgian tradition is vegetable pates (300Rbs for a selection-plate of three different pates), and Suliko's are some of the best. One was based on beans and garlic - another had tiny baby carrots in it.
Georgia is - as any Georgian will tell you - the home of the grape, and claims to be the first country where wine was made. Almost certainly you've already tried the worst of Georgian wine - it turns up at parties where Russians seem to love the thin, acerbic yet semi-sweet reds. It doesn't have to be like this - if your taste is more for a French-style red wine, then pick a nice Saperavi. The more robust body of Saperavi is the perfect accompaniment to Georgian food. Suliko also serve wine by the glass if you prefer.
Finally, when you have chatted, and idled, and nibbled at all the starters, and listened to the musicians, comes the main course. We shared a single main course and there was still heaps left over - tsiplyata v ezhevichnom souse, chicken in a loganberry sauce (500Rbs). Brought to the table in its terracotta casserole, the outside is as crunchy as the inside is tender.
Suliko is the perfect set-up for upscale Georgian, and your mission - if you choose to accept it - is to find the right occasion and group of diners to enjoy it. It's not especially cosy, and you'd feel a bit exposed there on a lover's tryst. But if you have foreign guests over - especially if they already sick of sour cream and accordions - it would be a super treat for corporate-level guests that offers them a cuisine they'll not have tried elsewhere. |
|
|
|
|
| 644. | B2 Summer Terrace
|
Too hot to cook at home? In Uzbekistan they know about hot, so letting them do the cooking seemed like a good idea. Although many Moscow restaurants serve their regular menu outdoors in summer, B2 have gone one stage further, and set-up an Uzbek outdoor caff in their courtyard - for the authentic outdoor sizzle. This is not trying to compete with the ritzy upscale Uzbek eateries in Moscow - this is honest, Uzbek street-cafe food, priced to persuade you against cooking at home this evening. There is no hokum Uzbek decor - decent and respectable beer-garden patio furniture, and- all the tables are under cover, to save you and your supper from a sudden drenching in the Moscow monsoon season (aka "summer"). You can slob-out shamelessly here and no one will mind - shorts, t-shirts, trainers, whatever you feel comfortable in, bring the kids, it's the perfect antidote to posy dining.
The menu's strong, although not long, on Uzbek standards, and it's all cooked fresh by the guys over there behind the rotisseries. Think of it as a bar with a substantial food menu, and you've got the right approach. The portion-sizes are ideal for snacking, so you can follow central-asian custom and order yourself a selection. There is, however, no pressure on you to order any food at all - if you like you can just drink, so if you just fancy a "beer with a little something", you're in the right place.
We pitched straight in with some pastry appetisers with our drinks - Samsas are like small individual naan-breads, cooked in the tandoor oven, with a little spicy lamb, and go for a mere 20Rbs (you'll want to order at least a couple of these). If an attack of the munchies whilst waiting on some grim station has led to a lifetime's hatred of Cheburek, think again - the cheese ones (60Rbs) here are delicious and light, and not at all greasy.
Plov (pilaff) is the traditional Uzbek staple, and Uzbeksky Plov (150Rbs) didn't disappoint - a generous helping of nice lamb mixed into the tasty rice & veg mix. To provide a little backbone to the meal, we ordered some shashliks - which are priced here per skewerful. It's more fun to mix-and-match, but you ought to reckon on 2+ skewers per person if you're thinking in terms of a main course. The Lamb (90Rbs) was suitably juicy, although the Salmon (90Rbs) was cold when it arrived. The Vegetable shashlik (80Rbs) really needed marinating, the vegetables were quite dry. There are some nice sauces to have on the side - although it's a Georgian interloper on an Uzbek menu, the tkemahli sauce (sour plum) is the perfect partner to the lamb. A plate of rather dull salad and some green herbs made up a rather half-hearted vitamin element to the meal.
There's a good selection of fresh juices (around 140Rbs), although the equally-tempting cocktails don't quite hit the spot - we had a disappointing Mohito (210Rbs) and a very sour Capirinha (150Rbs), and wished we'd stuck to beer or classic drinks.
This is real Uzbek food as served down any alley in Bokhara - tasty, simple, substantial, unpretentious and cheap - and ideal on any occasion when that's what you're after. The (piped) Uzbek music is quiet enough to talk easily, and the service is fast. English-language menus are promised this week too. |
|
|
|
|
| 645. | Syostry Grimm (Sisters Grimm)
|
Syostry Grimm (Sisters Grimm)
Do not let the name turn you off – there is nothing grim about Sisters Grimm (SG). While not out of a fairy tale like the Brothers Grimm, SG is a great place to peacefully spend an hour or two in the chaos of downtown Moscow. I will not hide it – I liked SG a lot, and if really good food and a relaxed atmosphere are your culinary opiate, you can stop reading now. Call SG, get a table, and you will walk away happy.
Going into this review, I did not quite know what to expect. My last review was an encounter with the worst, expensive burger that I have ever had, anywhere, so when SG prominently touts its burgers on its website, I thought, “Oh, great, more 500-600 ruble dung in a bun.”
Location for SG is tricky, and not tricky at the same time. From a map, you can understand where it is located, but the street view is different. We took the metro and enjoyed the short walk. On our next visit to SG a few days, we drove – and finding parking can be a minor headache, so diner bewares.
Walking down Stoleshnikov, the pedestrian arch to SG is on the opposite side of Simachev Bar, about mid-way down the cobblestone lane. Looking through the arch, you will see Gogol Café – walk towards Gogol Café, go around it to the right, and the bright pastel colors and latinesque music mean SG is near.
The interior – or rather, exterior – of the summer veranda is a refreshing break from many stuffy or crowded Moscow summer seating areas. Over the course of the meal, we commented to each other that, “This just does not feel like downtown Moscow.” I said it feels like a seaside alley in Croatia or Venice; my dining partner agreed, but said it seemed more like a pleaantly secluded summer spot you are apt to find in Saint Petersburg.
Inside SG the motif is rather carefree with specials written on the wall and ample seating. I venture that SG is also very pleasant in the non-summer months. A window seat on a nice snowy day with flakes coming down like Pacino in Scarface comes to mind.
From the minute we approached SG, we were greeted by a friendly hostess who not only made sure we found a table just right for us, but actually explained the specials for the day and other menu offerings. This is in stark contrast to the “hostess sits you down and flees, and waiter comes 5-10 minutes later (and is clueless)” at many Moscow restaurants as of late.
I asked her what she recommended, and she told me all 4 sangrias are good. Moreover, she told me why, and I settled on the cherry sangria (180 RUB) for the opening salvo. My dining partner went with a mouth-watering strawberry smoothie (250 RUB).
In general, I can tolerate – although not happily – really bad service if the food at a restaurant is even better. SG, thankfully, offers both attentive staff and food that is off the chart. And, honestly, what really matters at a restaurant when the check arrives is whether the food was good or not.
SG offers a diverse menu with hot and cold appetizers, salads made to order, and soups. I chose a salad with beef (340 RUB) and my dining partner went with a beet and cheese salad (320 RUB). While the names are remotely appealing, at best, in English, the salads were exquisite. I commented that mine was a perfect mix of tangy and sweet. The beet salad had two awesome cheeses – I believe goat cheese and a sharp parmesan type – and my fork was deftly fended off several times during repeated incursions.
We also ordered a quiche with eggplant (180 RUB) since the description begged us to try it. While the quiche met expectations and was good on its own, I would suggest instead getting a different salad from the menu to share – the salads truly are refreshingly good. A complimentary basket of fresh bread was served the salads and quiche also.
At that point in the meal, I was already raving about how “I really like that place” and already texting friends that we should meet up at SG later in the week, as none of them had heard of it either.
For entrées, we went with the aforementioned duck, duck, lamb – my dining partner chose the leg of duck (455 RUB) with grilled vegetables (180 RUB), and I went a bit out of my comfort zone and chose the Dagestani burger with lamb (495 RUB). And, thus the Lamburger Revolution began – with an innocent, “I think I will try this…”
The lamburger was the best burger I have ever had in the past 30-plus years of gorging myself on nearly every kind – or so I thought – of burger in North America, Europe, or Russia. If it is red meat or airborne, I was under the impression that I had eaten it before SG, and I was wrong.
The lamburger tramples all Moscow places offering expensive burgers. Chicago Prime, Frendy’s, and Starlite – all very good burgers. However, the lamburger at SG puts them all to shame from the first bite. To top it off, it is served with enough ketchup to make my heart smile since neither rationing for my fries AND burger nor paying an additional side charge was required. Call it the ketchup soapbox upon which all burger joints in Moscow are judged – and Starlite’s bottle of ketchup on your table reigns king – but I am tired of paying what amounts to $3-4 for ketchup on a burger that is already costing me about $15.
The duck received very high marks too – and I ate a good portion of the grilled vegetables. Duck is not in my culinary starting line-up, but my lady loves it. To wit, last time we had duck as paying customers, she said it tasted like one of the ducks that eat garbage in a drainage pond, so she said never again. However, SG was given the chance to save, or not save, all the ducks in Moscow, and SG delivered admirably.
I followed with a white wine sangria (180 RUB) and carrot cake (210 RUB) for dessert; my dining partner went with a fresh lemonade (180 RUB) and blueberry crème pie (195 RUB). While at this point already satiated, the drinks and dessert were superb.
In closing, total bill was 3165 RUB. For the quality of food and refreshingly non-Moscow atmosphere, it would have been well worth it even if we were paying customers. To this extent, we were back two days later with friends, and I relished the opportunity to give SG more hard-earned money because SG both values the business and delivers a mouth-watering, good memory-forming dining experience, and the second time was just as good as the first. |
|
|
|
|
| 646. | Jolly Dog Pub
|
In Search of a Jolly Dog in Moscow
Rarely do I venture further past two metro stations past the ring line in Moscow, unless I am going to an airport or on a train out of town. Call me lazy, but it is just the routine I have settled into. I don’t drive in Moscow anymore, don’t like paying more than 200 Rbs to get anywhere (because you pay the same amount or more back), and am either suffocated or frankly just depressed these days by the Moscow metro (especially after LA Times correspondent Megan Stack’s op-ed in The Moscow Times a few weeks back about stray dogs in the metro). So it took a little coaxing to venture to the VDNKh region to sample what I was informed to be an English Pub, the Jolly Dog.
A quick aside as I am always pre-occupied with names of establishments (“What’s in a name?”)… I am not a Brit, so may be missing some literary or pub culture reference every good Englishman knows, but Jolly Dog? On my way there I could not get out of my head the commercial jingle for “Lucky Dog” dog food as a kid in the US, and then - thinking about my daily rides in the metro – about how no dogs in this town are very jolly in the least (again, the op-ed mentioned above comes to mind). However, this pre-occupation with the pub’s name subsided to my pre-occupation with actually finding the Jolly Dog….
Jolly Dog is located in the north of Moscow, quite peculiarly located in the basement of a Ssang Yong car dealership – which is equally peculiarly located on a large meridian traffic island of an arterial interchange – just north of the RamStore off of Sheremyetevskaya Ulitsa (there is definitely a story behind the odd location that I still need to find out). Knowing all of this will actually help you find it with GPS accuracy, but getting there for the first time was a challenge that even Google maps on my iPhone could not help with. I took the metro to Timiryazevskaya with the intent of flagging a car, but ended up taking a marshrutka (an adventure my date of course just loved) as no gypsy cabs were in sight. Getting dropped off at the lonely cross street near the Jolly Dog was almost like an existential experience – comparing the address written on your crumpled piece of paper and the addresses on the surrounding buildings, I looked around and knew it should be there, but it was not. I felt cold and alone, and that my trip north had no meaning, but a friendly voice answering my call for guidance told me to head for Ssang Yong, who gave me hope.…
….and food, and a good beer. Descending into the Jolly Dog made me feel I was back in central Moscow again, and by some stretch of the imagination perhaps in a London pub. Lots of leather booths, varnished wood, and paintings adorning the walls quickly warmed my soul. Opening the Russian language menu (no English menu offered just yet), complete with the listings of exact metric proportions of each dish, I quickly found the drinks section and ordered a pint of Bowman’s (220 Rbs), while my Polish date ordered a Finnish Lapin Kulta (140 Rbs). Overall the menu could be considered an inspiration to Anglo-Russo relations, a harmonious compromise between the two where each seem to share a common cultural space. Not fully English, and not fully Russian.
Cold starters ranged from 140 Rbs (herring) to 350 Rbs (fish plate), with salmon carpaccio (260 Rbs) and cheese plate (350 Rbs) in between. We skipped the cold starters, though, as soon as we spotted a wide selection of yummy, greasy bar food – fried cheese (150 Rbs), nachos (180 Rbs), onion rings (150 Rbs), fried calamari (180 Rbs) as well as more higher-end bar food such as warm mussels (490 Rbs). We opted for the fried calamari rings, but regretfully did not try the sampler plate. The calamari came out within minutes, hot and greasy, albeit a bit over fried – but no matter as I was hungry; existentialism be damned – I felt alive with each greasy, fishy bite!
Salads were not your garden variety – literally. Most of the salads in the selection were made from some type of meat (I recall a tongue salad for 290). However, the salads that we did try – those that had some greens – were excellent and some of the best salads I have frankly had in Moscow. Really. My Polish date for the evening had the chicken heart salad (250 Rbs), and commented it was one of the best salads she has had since coming to . I had the Scottish salad, a delicious salad of greens, ruccola, goat cheese, and toast tips (290 Rbs) and was also quite impressed. The ruccola was fresh-picked fresh.
Already feeling quite warmed by the surroundings and excellent service, we skipped the selection of soups were (160-180 Rbs, standard fare of mushroom, chicken, pea, etc.) and moved on directly to the main courses which covered at least four pages ranging from basic club sandwiches (240 Rbs), homemade sausages (220-460 Rbs), seabass (950 Rbs), and pheasant stuffed with walnuts and red whortberries (brusnika) at 440 Rbs which was my first choice, but alas they were out of pheasant and unwilling to improvise with other poultry meats at my suggestion. The menu had a whole page dedicated to beef, including T-Bone steak (850 Rbs) and “21st Day Veal” (950 Rbs), a dish whose name I really don’t want to understand.
Like the good Polyachka she is, my date ordered the homemade sausages and said they were the best she has had east of Warsaw (again, neither of us are English, so London not our first point of reference). I felt a suddenly strange onset of Russophilia in the English surroundings, and opted for the chicken tabaka (250 Rbs). The whole chicken was succulent, moist, and most incredible of all – boneless! A whole, flat baked chicken before me, with barely a wingbone to gnaw on. My compliments indeed to the culinary talents of the chef.
I’ve read other recent reviews of new and tasty neighborhood restaurants opening up outside the ring that are worth a visit, and the Jolly Dog is indeed one of them. I still marvel at its most unique location, but once there you do indeed forget about how you got there (and how to get back). The food was extremely fresh, and the service very prompt and polite. The Jolly Dog maintains a bit of its Russian character, but is quite a jolly good place to go. Call ahead for reservations as they tend to book up days in advance on the weekends, and go ahead and book a taxi too. |
|
|
|
|
| 647. | Temple Bar
|
A bit of Ireland - next to the Kremlin
Temple Bar touts itself as having an Irish flavor. It is, after all, named after an area of Dublin. However, despite their best efforts - waitress in Irish-style serving uniforms and convincing interior decor, for example, plus the magnificent view of the Kremlin (Temple Bar is located right by the monument to the Unknown Soldier) - it's a perpetual reminder that you are in Russia, not on the Emerald Isle.
After turning into Temple Bar from out of the still-chilly Moscow evening air, my dining partner and I checked our coats and took a seat. This was more difficult than we had anticipated... Temple Bar, though opened only a month ago, already draws a large crowd, no doubt because of both its location in the city's tourist Ground Zero, and positive word of mouth.
As starters, I ordered a Caesar salad (230 rubles) and my partner opted for Mozzarella and tomatoes topped with Parmesan (170 rubles). (Temple Bar may be an Irish venue in name, but the menu is far more eclectic.) Perhaps the word "starter" is a misnomer? My Caesar salad was - not to mince words - huge. And delicious, especially due to the addition of bacon alongside the traditional ingredient, chicken. The Mozzarella was also top-notch.
For main courses, we went with rabbit with vegetables under sauce (340) and shrimp, tomatoes and onion drenched in white wine sauce (550 rubles). The rabbit was satisfying - that is, what little of it I could get down my throat after the enormous salad - but the shrimp superb, though my dining partner, a person of no mean manual dexterity, did have problems extracting the shrimp from their shells. But, as they say, effort just makes things sweeter in the end. The complimentary basket of bread, obligatory in Russia, was an order of magnitude better than the typical fare.
For drinks - no teetotalers we - ordered martinis with pineapple juice (80 rubles) and the classic Sex on the Beach (120 rubles). As one can see, prices at Temple Bar, while not low, are not at all wallet-busting.
All in all, a satisfying evening out, and I will definitely be back. A mild complaint, however - volume. The live music, at least on the night we were there - slow jazz with an added be-bob flavor - was good, but it was far too loud. One does not come to a restaurant primarily for the music. One comes for the food, atmosphere and conversation, and the music should be just that - background.
But that's a minor quibble. All in all, Temple Bar has good food (and good service), a great atmosphere and a spectacular location. And, all food - including the bread - is produced on site. It is a great new addition to Moscow's spots to dine out. |
|
|
|
|
| 648. | Dome
|
I am not sure how to start in reviewing Dome and have been struggling to find “the good” in last night’s experience. As another reviewer on Expat.ru wrote about another place – “I wanted to like it, really I did.” That is how I feel about Dome precisely and my utter indifference grows with each minute.
To wit, this was not a vividly unforgettable experience or horribly forgettable experience. It was, quite simply, a comparative waste of time. Dome is indifferent to me and its customers; I too then am indifferent to Dome. If I were a paying customer, it would have been a very difficult situation since I would have felt good paying about a quarter of what the bill came to.
Dome has a tricky location for the casual diner, expat or Russian. I scoured the website that is really a blog – funky, trendy, edgy, cool, but still a blog. No narrative about “how to find us” – just a link to Google Maps. For those who have been to the Strelka neighborhood of Moscow, you then know that there are many dining establishments. For those of you who have not been to Strelka, it is on the island in the Moscow River on the grounds of a former and gargantuan Soviet chocolate factory.
Funky, trendy, edgy, cool neighborhood. However, I challenge anybody to find a restaurant whose signage is not good, no website narrative, and has one of the horrifying “/” addresses all too common in Moscow. Add a “stroenie” plus another “drob” to the address, plus icy Moscow streets, cold wind, and darkness, and you will probably be as charmed as we were in looking for it.
Note: If you do go there, look for Dome’s competitor, Zarya - the huge of red sign with your back to the Kremlin/Cathedral that you cannot miss. As you get closer, look for the – again - huge sign for the former chocolate factory - the small, unlit sign for Dome is below. You are near.
After finally finding Dome, I still had an open mind. Walked in, liked the lighting, smiled that there was a fireplace, and quickly were shown seats at a corner table with padded bench seating. So far, so good – I liked this place. Enchanting first impression of a warm oasis of high-ceilings and soft light in the middle of the Moscow winter with fast Wi-Fi.
Menus arrived with no explanation or even an attempt at one. Not a big deal – I thought that a laissez -faire approach could be expected in what a person, from the website/blog, would understand as an artsy restaurant.
For drinks, we went with raspberry and feihuoa lemonade (450 RUR) and a bottle of cold Corona for me (330 RUR). We chose a mix of appetizers – hummus with fire-grilled chicken (230 RUR), Spanish bread “krostini” with smoked tomato (170 RUR), mixed salad with smoked duck breast (390 RUR), and mixed salad with warm roast beef (390 RUR). I also ordered a bowl of a beef stew (440 RUR).
I love hummus and it pains me that good hummus is difficult to find in Moscow. I am not talking about five star, tell your friends how much you pissed away on smashed chick peas – just good hummus. Dome’s hummus was, and is, not good – I put salt in it to give the chunks some sort of taste; the result was salty chunks of blandness. Krostini were good. Smoked duck breast was good. My mixed salad with roast beef was very tasty. The beef stew was an unusual flavor, but it was unusual in an appealing way.
The flies, however, that appeared en masse with the food, were not good.
Entrees were skinless Murmansk cod fillets with mashed potatoes (420 RUB) for my girlfriend and a beef steak with french fries (1100 RUB) for me.
My girlfriend loves fish, seafood, and all other dining fare associated with water. She took 2 bites of her cod. I asked her, “How is it?!” since I was still finishing up my soup. She put her fork down and said, “Honestly, it’s horrible. Maybe some salt will give it some flavor.” Like my hummus, adding salt just gave birth to a salty plank of blandness. Better to leave it for the flies, and that is what she did, and that says a lot for somebody who loves fish and seafood.
My steak arrived shortly thereafter. In fairness, it was a nice cut of meat and good. I cannot say that I would not recommend it ceteris paribus. However, a restaurant needs to understand presentation – a small steak, regardless of how good it may taste, on a big plate at 1000 rubles makes the buyer think he or she is getting, well, a raw deal.
Dinner was followed with dessert. For me, 50 grams of vanilla ice cream (140 RUB) and a piece of orange pie (250 RUB) for my dinner date. The ice cream was literally 50 grams, no more. Two spoonfuls – and, voila, finis. My girlfriend took one bite of the orange pie and said, “I’m full. Do you want to try it?” After my two spoonfuls of ice cream, yes, I did want to try it. After trying the pie, I would have preferred to eat either my red napkin with the remnants of my ice cream or a nerf football with powdered sugar since the pie was only marginally better than those options.
Final bill was 4440 rubles. If I would have been a paying customer, in short, I would have given a damn and really not wanted to pay.
When you sit and are eating your steak and watching 10, 11, 12 flies Mississippi crawl over your date’s uneaten food, repeatedly, it turns you off as an active diner, let alone providing fertile ground wondering, “If there are this many flies here, where/how the hell has my raw cut of meat been prepared?”
Therein is the danger for any restaurant with flies – the behind the velvet kitchen curtain unsanitary impression that flies create. I do not go to restaurants, regardless of how funky, trendy, edgy, cool, or close proximity to Rai, to wonder about what awaits me when I get home or wake up in the morning. To wit, no vomiting or prolonged restroom sessions today – apparently the flies were harmless.
At the end of the meal, I wanted to talk to the manager, in a nice way, not “I am going to scream and stomp my feet way”. She said that, yes, she was aware that I was doing a review and aware that there was a problem with flies in that corner. Then…why the hell did they seat us there? And…why then was your wait staff non-existent?
Again, with management and wait staff indifferent to me, I can only be the same – indifferent to Dome and regretful that we wasted an evening there, in addition to the time taken to write this review. |
|
|
|
|
| 649. | Osteria della Piazza Bianca
|
For me, as the Moscow evening weather cools and the days abruptly become shorter in October, the indoor restaurant season springs to life. This magical Moscow crossroads between long summer days and heavy winter coats rekindles a galaxy of warm memories of past cozy dinners. Thus, Osteria Bianca (Bianca) appeared on my radar with perfect timing for a dinner date during a favorite time of year in Moscow.
Bianca has an extremely convenient location if one is arriving by metro. It is crucial, however, to take one’s time to be sure to exit the Belorusskaya metro labyrinth correctly. Follow the exit signs towards Lesnaya ulitsa – ring line or radius line – and you will exit into a pedestrian only square. Looking straight ahead, Coffemania is to your right, Torro Grill and Starbucks are to your middle, and Bianca is to your left. As well, Bianca is very close to the Holiday Inn Lesnaya if you happen to be in Moscow and staying at this popular hotel.
Dinner was set for 7PM, and I arrived a few minutes early. Bianca was bustling with activity, and I could tell immediately that I was going to like spending time in this restaurant.
The dinner crowd was varied – couples on romantic dates, larger parties of friends meeting up, and several people sitting alone behind a laptop with dinner and coffee. In short, Bianca provides an atmosphere where nearly anybody feels comfortable immediately.
Throughout the evening, I was extremely impressed by the extent to which the head chef, Salvatore Barbara , interacted with all the tables seated. I have not had an experience in Moscow where I have felt that a chef has cared as much about making a customer feel comfortable and taken care of in a restaurant – kudos!
Before going to Bianca, I reviewed its website to understand the cuisine offered. I was not sure if I was to expect a Boston style oyster house as the name Osteria implies or a traditional European seafood restaurant. To this extent, while Bianca does offer Fresh Oysters (180 RUR each), Bianca’s menu is balanced and varied around a surf and turf theme. The menu also offers an array of pasta and pizza if you are looking for a faster turnaround or are short on time.
The dining atmosphere at Bianca balances informal and formal – that is, a person could be as comfortable having a light dinner and drinks with friends after work or formally entertaining guests. I found Bianca to have the perfect touch of lighting for a crisp autumn evening – a mix of “bright enough” lighting melded into a well thought-out interior color scheme, and not the horrible dull lighting as I have found the case in many higher end restaurants in Moscow.
While waiting for my dinner date to arrive, I ordered an Unfiltered Pauleainer Beer (330 RUR, 500ml) and Blue-finned Tuna Tartar with Goat Cheese (580 RUR). The tuna tartar was exquisite, with the fresh taste of the tuna complimented superbly by the toasted bread with goat cheese.
To be sure to have a hot dish on the table when my dinner date arrived, I placed a delayed order for Mussel in Mediterranea Style and Garlic Bread (350 RUR). This is a hearty dish of steamed mussels in a tangy sauce, garnered with cherry tomatoes and greens, and it arrived piping hot and with perfect timing.
To sample the menu and further delve into appetizers, upon Salvatore’s recommendation, we also ordered Salmon Taratara with Potatoes Salad and Sauce (390 RUR), Tomatoes Soup with Ricotta Cheese (250 RUR), and Broccoli Soup with Gorgonzola Cheese (390 RUR).
To wit, between the cold/hot appetizers and soups, Bianca has 37 offerings – so there is a great chance that you will find several items to your liking.
The salmon tartar was presented with caper mushrooms that complimented one of the best potato salads that I have ever tried in my life. To say that I was pleasantly surprised that a dish featuring potato salad could be so good would be an understatement. Both soups, as well, featured the perfect cheese for both – the tomato soup was a balance of hearty and tangy, and the broccoli was a rich cream soup thick on taste and texture.
We ordered main entrees upon Salvatore’s recommendation and wine upon the recommendation of the sommelier to complement. I ordered Duck, Veal, and Lamb Chop Grill Served with Grilled Vegetable and Mushroom Sauce (1100 RUR) and a glass of Argiano Red Wine (550 RUR, 125 ml) from Tuscany. My dinner date ordered Grilled Seafood,Ssalmon, Sea Bass and Tiger Prawns with Green Asparagus and Cherry Tomatoes (1500 RUR) and a glass of Catena Chardonnay (480 RUR, 125 ml).
This was the first time that I have had duck in Moscow that proved to be a positive memorable experience – in the past, duck has been a disappointment, but Salvatore assured me that I would not be disappointed. To wit, the duck was fabulous – simply divine – and both the veal and lamb chops were excellent. The mushroom sauce went perfectly with the recommended wine as well.
The seafood entree had huge tiger prawn shrimp that were accompanied by succulent filets of salmon and sea bass. The chardonnay was the absolute correct light wine choice for the composition.
The portions for both main dishes were large and presented appealing value for the price. You would be hard pressed to find the same level of quality ingredients, flavor, and presentation at a similar price point in other Moscow restaurants today. Also, be sure to slow down and enjoy the entree offerings, as the desert menu offers very appealing choices.
For dessert, we had a difficult time deciding what to order – and were happy to take our time after large main dishes - so we chose the tact that variety is the spice of life with a troika of desserts. Tiramisu with Marsala Wine and Orange Zeste (350 RUR), Meringue Rolled Cake with Raspberry (390 RUR), and Sorbet Trio (200 RUR).
We garnered the desserts with Americano Coffee (170 RUR) and Japanese Linden with Chamomile and Lime Oil Tea (220 RUR).
The tiramisu was excellent – the right taste, texture, and sweetness. The meringue rolled cake, however, was one of the most memorable desserts that we have had at any restaurant in Moscow, ever. I forgot to inquire about the secret recipe, but – first and foremost – the next time that I am in the area, I will be sure to stop at Bianca to partake in a cup of hot coffee and meringue rolled cake. The sorbets were well matched to our coffee and tea and would be a nice, quick desert on a summer day.
The final bill was 7510 RUR, not including gratuity, and I consider that at that price level, Bianca offers a solid value proposition of somewhat informal dining with top shelf selection and execution. If we had not been doing a review, the final bill would have been closer to 4000 RUR, and that is an appealing cost for a dinner night out in Moscow.
With that being said, I recommend Osteria Bianca without hesitation and will return to this lovely restaurant, I am sure, many times in the future.
PS: I almost forgot to mention…be sure to try the degustive drink orangecello or limoncello to cap off your evening with a smile! We tried both, and they took the edge off the cool Moscow evening on the walk home. Highly recommended, and I do not believe that they are readily offered on the menu – you need to ask! |
|
|
|
|
| 650. | Chugunny Most
|
Chugunny Most, a stylish gastro-pub on Pyatnitskaya, found a neat way of grabbing some publicity late last year. After PM Dmitry Medvedev publically lamented that it was difficult for him and his fellow bureaucrats were on the look-out for a suitable place to celebrate their New Year’s party, the owners immediately invited him to drop in and check out what they could offer. After all, with the state seemingly eager to support Russian business in these straightened times, it should have been a good deal for all.
Sadly Dmitry Anatolevich and his eminent companions didn’t manage to get a festive booking together in time; those who do get it together for a visit can expect a fine feeding from the latest venture of the people behind the well-regarded ‘Krylashki and Nogki’ venues that brought the whole gastro-pub concept to Moscow a couple of years back.
That story was shared over a serving of a classic ‘herring-and-potato’ salad that goes a long way towards explaining what Chugunny Most is all about. The food is – for the most part – simple and unpretentious, the kind of thing your babushka would make. But it’s presented with the quality and imagination that lifts it above the mundane stodge of so much everyday Russian food, and the menu demonstrates a sharp awareness that contemporary Russian cuisine doesn’t need to restrict itself purely to Russian food traditions and can draw on ideas from around the world without sacrificing its identity.
Chugunny Most – which means ‘cast-iron bridge’ takes its name from the bridge that carries Pyatnitskaya over the water toward Balchug and the city center. Today, admittedly, the bridge itself is a 1960s concrete affair and Pyatnitskaya is no longer the commercial heart of Old Moscow, but as the region reinvents itself as a more recreational district with a largely pedestrianized area around the metro stations the cafe is well placed to attract discerning diners.
The menu is extensive and imaginative, offering a wide range of snacks for sharing over a glass of wine as well as bunch of heartier dishes if you’re looking for a full-on feed. The accent is eclectic, with an emphasis on subtly reworking some old classics or presenting new flavor combinations. In keeping with the whole gastro-ethos, close attention is paid to sourcing good, fresh ingredients and serving them in an affordable format. It’s another welcome addition to the range of middle-ground restaurants in Moscow that are steadily bridging the gap between ‘pafosny’ overpriced nonsense and alarmingly basic canteens.
What does that mean in practice? Well, it means soups like the ‘mushroom cappuccino’, pitched somewhere between a mousse and a souffle and rich in warm, earthy flavors of fungus. It’s a million miles away from traditional Russian soups, or even the tins of Heinz cream of mushroom that popped up in my childhood … and it’s much better than either. It means exploring what can be done with the Mimosa salad when you ditch the sorry, stale ingredients left over at the back of the fridge, replace the sad, dried, unidentifiable fish with ocean-fresh crab and think through the presentation to ensure that an old familiar cannot be taken for granted.
Elsewhere on the menu, it’s hard to beat a simple starter of tomato and quinoa – just for the explosion of fresh flavors that accompanies every mouthful. Even a committed meat-eater with a deep-seated suspicion of anything that smacks of a salad should find something to enjoy here.
The urge to highlight how ordinary food can be enhanced with some culinary TLC also transforms the golubtsy. These parcels of meat cooked in cabbage leaves can so easily come out as a formless mess, so it’s reassuring to see it arrive on the plate with foliage that still packs a bit of crunch when you bite into it. Swimming in a rich, creamy sauce also makes this one a winner.
One of the most popular dishes from Dmitry Zotov’s kitchens at ‘Krylashki I Nogki’ has made the trip over the river to Zamoskvarechiye – the turkey falafel is on the menu here and matches up to its colleague. This has become one of the foodie favorites around Moscow and is a welcome addition here.
Not everything was a hit, of course – the bruschetta on offer were solid rather than spectacular, and the same criticism might be applied to some of the desserts. But even if a Chugunny Most disappoints slightly, that is more a reflection of the high overall standards here.
While we were guided through the menu by our host, and got to sample a fair selection of what was on offer, there’s still plenty on the list to encourage future visits. The Moroccan soup and the baked goat that were on offer when we visited certainly caught the eye, while there’s a frequent rotation of dishes to ensure that there’s always something new to nibble on. |
|
|
|
|
| 651. | Simple Pleasures
|
Close your eyes, imagine walking into a Restaurant that still has work going on at the main entrance, an awful start you may think, well that is what I thought it would be when I was invited to a new place on Sretenka, here we go again says I, battle my way through a building site, fight off sleepy workers who don't seem to know what day it is, well to my pleasurable surprise, it wasn't what I dreaded.
We were met at the door by smiling staff, yes they smiled, they spoke English, and they were pleasant to us, even helpful, unbelievable huh?
The phrase "Simple Pleasures" may have a multitude of meanings to different people, to me it has always meant "no stress, no hassle and enjoyable", well, after myself and Polly went to Jerry Ruditser's new restaurant on Sretenka Street, "Simple Pleasures" took on a new meaning for me.
A little background first should help, Jerry is the founder and owner of the first Western Style coffee shops in Moscow which appeared in the middle 90's, "The Coffee Bean" is well known by most people in Moscow and provides a great way of grabbing a coffee and relaxing with your pals or to meet informally with a client. Jerry has brought chef Tony Baran to Moscow, this guy is not only a great chef, but has a presence that is both comfortable and likeable immediately, much to my disgust he chatted to Polly in fluent Spanish and seems to be picking up the Rusky lingo as well, makes me sick these people who are talented. .
There seemed to be a gap for a quality and reasonably priced Restaurant that provides food with a different twist, Tony the Head chef at "Simple Pleasures" calls it his "West Coast American Twist". To be honest I really didn't have any pre-conceptions, apart from the chance to rip this place apart with my arrogant style and loud mouthed behavior, I thought I could really give it a bad write up, it started from the moment we walked in downstairs, there was still work being carried out downstairs, this meant the place would be like a building site right? The entrance was a bit messy so I looked forward to viewing a mass of remonted and unfinished works.
Well I hate to admit it but I was wrong again, once climbing the stairs into the main area on the first floor, the simple and clean decor, the huge ceiling to floor windows that looked onto the then traffic jammed Sretenka, had an instant relaxing charm, there is a back room that has great potential, an open fire place and again large windows, ideal for a company function.
We were shown to a table by the window which gave me the opportunity to look down at the mass of traffic on this busy street. A little note on that, in all seriousness, if you have to drive on Sretinka, it is worth stopping for an hour or so for a coffee or bite to eat, the traffic cleared up after about an hour or so.
The meal, sounds like a start of an epic film huh? Well it was, a bottle of water was brought as well as some delicious bread and roasted Garlic, you can have traditional or almost a tappas style starter of various small dishes of hot and cold platters, we had Grilled Egg Plant with North African Hummus (180Rb), Whole Baby Fried Chicken (288Rb) usually more than enough for 2 but Polly ate half of it, which, of course didn't make me very happy, Spicy Korean Style Shrimp (180Rb), Grilled Lamb Sausage (210Rb) with a little Tony the chef Spice, Sesame Seared Tuna with amazingly prepared cucumber and peppers (380Rb) and Italian Salami served with roasted apples (210Rb). Well after that little lot I was feeling ready for my desert; I thought it was the starter and main course, Readle wrong again.
Main course, Grilled Pork Chop on a bed of delicious mashed potatoes (448Rb), Smoked Tenderloin Beef with spinach and mashed potatoes (864 Rb), and Cured MR Muscovy Duck (288Rb). I forgot to mention, the house wine is delicious, served in half liter carafe and priced at only 200Rb, normally reasonably priced Restaurants charge a fortune for even mediocre wine, this was light and very tasty, and the price, well getting tipsy here isn't difficult.
For desert, we had a Caramelized Apple with ice cream dish and a Sponge Cake covered with delicious chocolate. Both dishes had wild berries and strawberries which complimented the whole meal.
OK, that is the official stuff out of the way, some people like to see what was eaten and how much, me, well it was really an experience that I am happy I tried, it wasn't just the food, thanks Jerry you have a very special talent that is lacking in many a Restaurant in Moscow, it wasn't just the decor or the smiling friendly and efficient staff, it was the whole ambiance that created a dining experience that was simply pleasurable, no pun intended.
So to summarize, the works going on gave it an unfinished ambiance, the back room upstairs wasn't ready but has great potential, the overall impression was in my mind very good bordering on excellent, the food and presentation was an experience that many restaurant owners in town could do well to view and emulate. |
|
|
|
|
| 652. | Food Embassy
|
Celebrity chefs are steadily taking over the world’s eating habits – and Russia is no exception. But it’s not all about high profile openings from international brands, like Jamie Oliver’s recent arrival in Moscow. There’s also a strong batch of local contenders, with celebrated actress Julia Vysotskaya leading the way.
Vysotskaya comes from the ‘yummy mummy’ school of cookery, one of those domestic goddesses who manages to whip up delicious looking food on long-running TV shows while still looking effortlessly gorgeous in the process. The brand, which has long encompassed cook books, culinary tourism and signature kitchenware, also powers the Food Embassy restaurant – one of the flagships of Moscow’s post-pafosny food revolution.
The Vystoskaya brand seeks to promote an idealised yet attainable life – and that principle is obvious from the approach to the restaurant. It fits well into the switch in focus in the city’s dining scene, where an exaggerated homely vibe is steadily – and thankfully – replacing the overdressed to impress venues of recent years. As such Food Embassy, with its plain wooden interior and artfully arranged ‘babushka’s dacha’ knick-knacks cleverly plays on the illusions of what life might be like for Moscow’s middle class if it wasn’t stuck in cramped apartments in a sprawling metropolis. Even the weekend entertainment for kids is aspirational – clowns and balloons replaced by classes in Oshibana, a Japanese art of making pictures from pressed flowers, leaves and seeds. Large windows, lots of natural light and views of a botanical garden from the upper levels complete the effect – it’s not an unattainable Rublyovka mansion, it’s just a slightly nicer version of the family ‘cottedzh’ you might be able to afford yourself.
That’s very much the charm of the place. The menu, which has echoes of a gastro-pub that perhaps reflect the legacy of the English chef who helped set up the kitchen here, offers dishes that are interesting, and more complicated than you could be bothered to cook for yourself, but that nonetheless don’t leave you feeling lack a slack-jawed yokel in the presence of great sophisticates. And, after all, if you enjoy your dinner you can always buy the book, keep it in your kitchen and never quite around to recreating the feast for yourself.
Most importantly, though, the food is excellent. Whether the image strikes you as sublime or ‘Stepford Wives’, there’s no arguing about what arrives on the plate. The Rabbit in the Woods looked terrific, with a green foam of pureed fennel and clusters of berries creating a sylvan backdrop for the meat. And what meat! Tenderly cooked to perfection, sliding off the bone at the first touch of a fork and melting in the mouth. The recipe books, no doubt, suggest that this is straightforward; experience shows that serving any meat like this demands a chef on top of his game.
That dish alone would be worth returning for and its quality suggests that the rest of the menu deserves greater attention. However, the supporting acts also justified their place on the cast list. Warming, nourishing soups for the winter months – the Creamed Pea and Smoked Ham Soup was a rare treat, especially for someone who isn’t a big soup lover. A diverse range of salads that combines local favourites – herring, beetroot and potato could hardly be more stolidly Russian without being slathered in mayo – and international hits. That doesn’t just mean yet another Caesar; the list also includes Food Embassy’s take on the flagship Cobb Salad inspired by the famed 192 Notting Hill restaurant in London.
The drinks selection is also worth browsing – and this is a place that takes care to offer a good range of non-alcoholic drinks as well. My wife was intrigued and impressed with a halva-flavoured coffee, setting aside her common grumble that coffee should taste of coffee (and, by implication, halva of halva) for this unusual but effective combination. The ginger lemonade, a fairly common feature on Moscow menus, was also one of the best examples I’ve tried: a refreshing lemony kick to start with and a slow, warming tang of ginger in the after-taste rather than the oversweetened, under-flavoured offerings found elsewhere. For a lunch meeting or a designated driver, the soft drinks menu is a winner; for those on the booze, the cocktails come with a good reputation.
There’s an extensive terrace and, as mentioned above, it’s next to the botanical gardens on Prospect Mira. With our long-awaited spring finally looking like it might be here to stay, Food Embassy is coming into its own as a place for good food in the open air and is definitely worth checking out for a lazy weekend lunch or a convivial catch-up dinner with a group of friends. |
|
|
|
|
| 653. | Scandinavia
|
Sweden has long been synonymous with quality and reliability but the words Swedish and high-class cuisine are rarely heard together. However the Scandinavia restaurant has for the past eight years been serving up Swedish influenced food that can match anything Moscow's finest eateries can offer.
First impressions are all important and Scandinavia is a winner before you even enter the building. The restaurant, conveniently located on a quiet lane off Tverskaya, draws diners in with its winter garden softly lit with hues of lilac and green and a surreal ice bar complete with skating waitress.
Once inside the metal and wooden interior is both ultra-stylish and homely. The lighting is modern yet reassuringly soft focus and the soothing background music does not intrude.
The a la carte menu is simple with chef, Per Palmquist, preferring to concentrate on a few well prepared, and beautifully presented dishes. The ingredients are brought especially from Sweden but the chef himself describes the cuisine as international.
On this occasion we decided to forgo the starter however we were offered a complimentary game pate with a cranberry coulis. This was gratefully accepted and was accompanied by a wonderfully soft, aromatic brown loaf that was more reminiscent of a rich fruitcake than bread.
For the main course I opted for the Tuna steak with Kamchatka crab served with cinnamon risotto and lobster vinaigrette (880Rb). It came medium rare but despite my initial fear bore little relation to sushi. It had a reassuringly firm texture and dissolved deliciously in the mouth. The risotto had an unusual consistency but the strange combination of sweet and savoury was unexpectedly pleasant.
My dining partner chose the Atlantic cod with bacon mashed potato (990Rb). Again the fish was cooked to perfection. The subtle flavour of the cod was well suited to the smokiness of the potatoes. We washed down the main course with a nicely chilled bottle of Argentinian Pinot Gris (1080Rb). The wine list is so extensive that our commendable choice was more down to serendipity than a detailed knowledge of fine wines.
For the pudding we both felt that a light desert was the order of the day. The blueberry sorbet must go down as the bargain of the century at 60 Rb for an incredibly generous portion. It was bursting with fruitiness and had a wonderfully smooth texture.
At the end of the meal we retired to the bar area overlooking the winter garden. There I finished with a single shot of Russky Standart Vodka while my companion enjoyed a riotously flavoursome Julie cocktail.
Scandinavia's style seems at odds with Moscow's vulgar and ostentatious get-rich-quick ethos. Everything about Scandinavia is unpretentious and low key. The food is superb yet simple. The interior is stylish but welcoming and the staff are polite, knowledgeable and thankfully unobtrusive.
If you understand class and quality but don't feel the need to shout about it then Scandinavia is the place for you. |
|
|
|
|
| 654. | Chicago Prime
|
I have seen the advertisements for Chicago Prime during recent forays to Starlite Diner, and Chicago Prime has been on my list of restaurants to check out. As it turns out, and not due to a miracle in cross-advertising, Chicago Prime and Starlite Diner are part of the same operating company. I have been a loyal fan of the Starlite Diner since 1998, so I welcomed the opportunity to review Chicago Prime.
Chicago Prime’s location is near Pushkinskaya metro station and not difficult to access by metro (especially) or automobile, but traffic can be heavy and slow on the boulevard ring. Chicago Prime is also open until 0500, so if you want late night steak, traffic is a relative non-issue. Parking is available behind a shlagbaum – even though we knew before arriving that parking was available, it was not readily available at 2000 on a Monday night.
The metro station is close to the restaurant and less of a headache. Rather, a more minor headache since Pushkinskaya is composed of three stops/stations with many exits. Follow the Strastnoi Bulvar exit signs, and you should come out of the right exit.
Access to headache-free WiFi has become a condition for my repeat business at restaurants and cafes in Moscow, especially expensive restaurants that cater to the expat community. Chicago Prime has headache-free WiFi, and it is convenient to keep up to speed on emails or just search the net.
The interior and atmosphere of Chicago Prime are appealing - that is, you can readily have a conversation over a normal sized table and the dining areas are big enough that you do not have to hear about how important the guy in the next table is, ex-pat or Russian.
Also, the music was, at least for me, a “make you smile” mix of Jimmy Buffet, Van Morrison, some Police, U2, and other songs that I knew. They also did not repeat and were not over thematic – i.e. crooning, loud Italian at a pasta place, annoyingly soft, artsy pafos music, or mega-repeat unknown, gibberish English language by unknown artists you run into at a lot of places in Moscow.
Chicago Prime also has a bar section that overlooks the boulevard with comfortable seating and offers food service as well. They have Happy Hour specials on weekdays from 1700 to 2000 – the current special is two for one drinks and 20% off the bar food menu.
Upon first glance, the menu at Chicago Prime itself may appear limited, but it is not. By this I mean that the main items are on one page – and each point of a great steak and seafood menu are well covered. You will not be at a loss for choices – like me, more than one entree will make your mouth water. Same for the garnishes crafted to complement your main entree.
However, as a warning – and actually a big plus for a Moscow restaurant – the portions at Chicago Prime are hearty, so plan accordingly when you order!
We started the night with a recommended currant-limonad (325 RUR for .5L pitcher, freshly made) that my dinner date absolutely had to try. I contemplated beer, but with an early flight out of Moscow the next morning, I really ventured outside of the culinary comfort zone with a freshly opened bottle of Coca Cola (120 RUR).
The English translation is Cowberry Lemonade, not the most romantic name, but do not be fooled. It was a stellar mix of fresh ingredients served on ice, and I highly recommend it. The other fruit drinks listed are also likely as appealing and flavorful, and 325 RUR for .5L of freshly-made juice is a good price.
Appetizers were a shrimp cocktail (690 RUR) over a vinaigrette type salad with a big Kamchatka crab claw, as well as Kamchatka crab cakes (750 RUR). The shrimp cocktail came with fried parmesan cheese slabs that were, quite frankly, awesome. Appetizers were flavorful, promptly arrived after ordering, and went well with the bread basket and flavored butter.
I was a bit tortured by which entree to choose since I wanted to go with a non-typical cut for me; I chose the Porterhouse Steak (3290 RUR). My dinner date had Maine Lobster (350 RUR per 100g / 2450 RUR total). For garnishes, we went with sauteed, caramelized onions (100 RUR), steamed asparagus with butter (490 RUR), french fries with truffles (290 RUR), and potatoes au gratin (390 RUR).
Steak was excellent and cooked exactly how I wanted it to be. The Porterhouse is what is termed “USDA CAB Aged Beef” – an involved curing process that locks in the flavors in a multi-step process over 45 days. The difference in taste was certainly noticeable. The potatoes au gratin were spectacular – to such an extent that the french fries were largely ignored as dinner progressed.
Maine lobster was excellent without reservations. The process was interesting since you are allowed to choose your own live lobster from the tank. A fleeting moment of playing God; I was not allowed to do the same for the bovine from whence my Porterhouse originated, however.
At this point we were satiated and dessert was out of the question, although the menu was beckoning. The waiter said that he would have the bartender mix up a non-alcoholic fresh fruit drink for us (500 RUR for two) that we would like. Think of it as liquid dessert – and it was off the chart excellent! The barman came over and relayed what was in it – ask for it if you are at Chicago Prime, with or without alcohol. I would characterize it as a strawberry cousin to a Pina Colada.
We took an order of cheesecake home that was the centerpiece of breakfast this morning. There was also a nice card in the bag thanking us for our patronage and wishing us to return soon – nice touch, and not seen often in Moscow, it seems.
Our final bill pushed 11,000 rubles without gratuity. Keep in mind that we did not drink alcohol – after all, it was a Monday – so your bill can climb quickly. At the same time, we had a few dishes upon the recommendation of our waiter that we would not have had otherwise, as well as our super after-dinner cocktail times two made by the Erik the Barman.
In short, I have only good things to say about our dining experience at Chicago Prime. Location is accessible, pricing as expected, food exquisite and superb service. I highly recommend Chicago Prime for business dinners, relatives in town that need to be wooed, or a nice experience for a couple. |
|
|
|
|
| 655. | Chemodan (Suitcase)
|
By the mid-C19th, central Siberia was booming. Settlers rights, unlimited free land, freedom for runaway serfs, and tolerance for religious minorities banned in European Russia were just some of the reasons...a gold rush, diamond mines, the post-road to Moscow, and rumours of untold and untapped riches had even stronger appeal. In place of shady taverns and shoddy flophouses, fine eateries and respectable hotels sprang up to cater to Siberia's new bourgeoisie - mine-owners, factory magnates, railway tycoons and families like the Demidovs, whose commercial interests ran far and wide.
“Chemodan” isn't just a Russian-cuisine restaurant – it's specifically a Siberian restaurant, with a menu featuring the freshest river-fish from Siberia's vast rivers and lakes, game dishes from the riches of the taiga forests, pickles and preserves featuring mushrooms and berries that barely even have dictionary names in English. In fact “Chemodan” in Moscow is a branch of the same restaurant in Krasnoyarsk. Well-known actor Oleg Menshikov visited the restaurant there and went in for supper – and loved it so much, that he decided to open another in Moscow. Very frequently movie-actor-owned restaurants are great ideas that fail to work in reality – but in this case, the established know-how and local Siberian expertise that made Chemodan a success in Siberia has transplanted superbly to Moscow.
The individual triumph of Chemodan offering delicious cuisine at medium-high prices (certainly not cheap - but you could easily spend double on dross in Moscow) and without the vacuous ostentation of its rivals. If you want to treat your visiting relatives or business colleagues to fine traditional Russian food, then this is the new pretender to the throne. No waiters in fake C19th livery, no hokum chandeliers, and no twaddle with calling clients “Milord” - this is honest, excellent cooking, on attractive plain white porcelain, with charming and personable multilingual staff in plain black shirts. The dining-room echoes upright provincial excellence of the mid-C19th – no nonsense, but very charming and atmospheric, and a welcome relief from the Theme Park interiors elsewhere. The food is served with quiet, confident pride and expertise – some of the staff are Siberians themselves. The table staff can tell you which rivers the fish come from, and what gives each recipe its special flourish. Restaurants further round the Boulevard Ring will be looking to their laurels – Chemodan will keep them on their toes.
On our waiter's recommendation, we took some house specialities as appetisers – but be warned, some of these dishes come in Siberian-sized portions, and a single appetiser would easily feed two. Emilia instantly warmed to the tenderness of the Venison Carpaccio (490 RUB), while I dived into a truly Siberian experience – stroganina, cold cuts of naturally-frozen fish. I'd had it before in Siberia with friends, but the Chir – translated on the menu as Blue-Back Salmon Stroganina, 590 RUB – exceeded all expectations. With an accompanying dipping sauce and seasoning, this was truly delectable eating – fat-free, carb-free, and guilt-free. In fact lightness, delicacies are hallmarks of Chemodan's menu, in sharp contrast to what you may have expected.
Although there's an extensive wine-list, I strongly recommend you to leave it unopened – the correct accompaniments to Siberian food are plain or flavoured vodkas, or the fruit-flavoured alcoholic tipples found in Siberian homes of the nineteenth century. The menu not only lists them, but gives an insightful account, in endearingly wonky English, of how they are made, and the lore and traditions surrounding them. Even long-term expat stalwarts are unlikely ever to have tried Erofeich – but these potent liqueurs were the staple of the Siberian table from the C17th onwards... and pack a powerful 56-percent-proof punch. A superlative accompaniment to my stroganina, in every sense! However, with ladies present we restricted our other drinking to the fruitier tipples with marginally lower alcohol content – Emilia's Honeysuckle Nalivka(196 RUB) – 26-percent-proof and coming in at a mere was pleasantly tart, while my own Blueberry Nalivka (180 RUB) was attractively and authentically sweet.
Salads aren't part of the Siberian scene, and probably we should have gone with the delicious-sounding soups on offer instead. Emilia had a Salad with slightly salted Whitefish, Avocado and Sweet Pepper (490 RUB) – nice enough if you wanted it, but rather out-of-place amid the Siberian specialities. This dish wasn't really too different from what you might make yourself at home. We had a few reservations about the limp green lettuce-leaves, however. They also topped my Warm Salad with Tiger Prawns, Mussels, Mushrooms under Garlic-Soy Sauce (690 RUB), but were only there for decoration, and I didn't bother with them. Once again, we'd blundered into ordering food that isn't Siberian – unless prawns now live there?
But things were firmly back on an even keel with our waiter-recommended main courses. Steamed Siberian Whitefish (890 RUB) is one of the most delicate things I've tasted in many a year. In fact it's been smoked before steaming, and was both succulently tender and sophisticated in taste - I could happily eat this every day. And once again – easy on the waistline, served with mouthwatering mushrooms. Emilia found her Grilled Cutlets of Siberian Stag (890 RUB) a trifle too pink in the middle – but you may find them to your taste, or might request them more well-done? Delicious aromatic black bread came on the side.
For dessert we shared a Walnut Soufflé, especially as the recipe came from “Exemplary Cuisine of Krasnoyarsk, 1892” - the source of quite a few other house specialities. To go with it while we had very pleasant espresso, and a pot of Guan Yin Iron Bodhisattva Tea (390 RUB).
Fine food, fine service, and a warm, relaxed atmosphere – what's not to like? All the ingredients of a memorable meal in Moscow are here – the only thing missing is you. Word is already out about Chemodan, and the place was packed when we went midweek - so be sure to book in the evenings. Or pop along for their 450 RUB Business Lunch (12pm–17pm) instead? |
|
|
|
|
| 656. | Kavkazskaya Plennitsa
|
In a city where restaurants come and go with alarming speed, only a few stay in business for long enough to deserve the title of “Moscow institution”. But, with 14 years of toil over a hot stove, Kavkazskaya Plennitsa (The Prisoner of the Caucasus) has proved its staying power, long before the recent crop of Georgian cafes began to pop up all over the city. The name is taken from a popular Soviet-era film (known in English as “Kidnapping, Caucasian style”), a 1967 comedy based loosely on a Pushkin poem, which trades heavily on the exotic charms of the frontiers of the former USSR. Rustic scenes and references to the movie inform much of the décor of the restaurant.
No prizes for guessing that Georgian cuisine dominates the menu here. Head chef Olga Gulieva grew up in Sukhumi, the principle city of Abkhazia, and the flavors of her homeland are deeply engrained in her kitchen. Georgian food is best sampled via a large assortment of dishes, ideally shared around the table – shashlyk and khachapuri are essential, but it’s also worth experimenting with a few starters. Here the Chicken Satsivi (430 RUR), a kind of cold, creamy chicken soup with a piquant, nutty flavor, was hugely impressive. The meat was done to perfection, with none of the slightly unnerving sense that it might be underdone which often undermines this dish. Other eminently snackable starters include lobio – green and red varieties here – delicate balls of aromatic, fresh-flavored goodness built around beans (the type of bean determines the color, although the flavors come as much from the herbs as anything else), and fresh fruits and veg (eggplant, prune and more) stuffed with ground walnuts and similar treats.
No Georgian meal would be complete without a Khachapuri, and the Adjarian version (570 RUR), topped with an egg frying merrily on the piping hot cheese is the king of this staple of trans-Caucasian cuisine. Once again the Kavkazskaya Plennitsa version was impressive – and apparently became Steven Seagal’s favorite dish when he visited Moscow and dined here. Clearly he chooses his dinners better than his scripts.
And, just as it’s impossible to avoid khachapuri, so Shashlyk – the much-loved flavor of fresh-grilled meat – is also an integral part of the Caucasian dining experience (and one rapidly adopted by the rest of the Imperial Russia). Again, this isn’t something you’d struggle to find on a menu elsewhere in Moscow, so quality is the key, and the staff recommended the lamb. And again, the freshness of the ingredients makes the New Zealand Lamb Chops (1400 RUR) a juicy, finger-licking joy (yes, fingers. Nobody should attempt this with a knife and fork). The Lamb’s Tongue (1050 RUR) was a surprising treat. Not having had tongue since childhood (when it made the short journey from tin to sandwich to infant disapproval), I was impressed with the tenderness of the meat when served in a more natural state.
In a crowded market, Gulieva’s dishes stand out for their quality: a cut above many of the Georgian cafes which have opened around town over the past 18 months or so and on a par with the best I’ve tried in this city.
With several rooms, ranging from a cozy nook for private parties to a large dining hall complete with a stage and a live band (a band which taps directly into the nostalgic feel with a repertoire of slightly saccharine songs which clearly mean a lot to locals but are largely unknown to expats) there’s something for everyone. And the summer terrace, sharing a leafy border with the neighboring park, feels a world away from the bustle of Prospekt Mira. The restaurant is proud of sourcing fresh, organic meat, but the chickens cooped in one corner are not on the menu – only their fresh-laid eggs do find their way to the kitchen. Although the overall theme is taken from the movie, complete with a model donkey and even a discarded shoe preserved in memory of a crucial plot twist, its appeal is not limited to movie buffs. Instead it manages the neat trick of combining a hint of the exotic with a strong waft of nostalgia, meaning for foreign guests it is both adventurous and reassuring at the same time.
Even on a chilly Tuesday, the place was busy with a mixture of besuited businessmen draining the company expense account and family groups who look like regular clients. The crowd is far from the cutting edge, hipster types who flock to the self-conscious venues around Krasny Oktyabr or ironical haunt the slightly arch retro-chic of the Kamchatka beer bar (like Kavkazskaya Plennitsa, operated by the Novikov group).
Verdict: Kavkazskaya Plennitsa is a great place to try Georgian food – or come back for some old favorites. Prices might be a bit higher than some of the competition, but in general you get what you pay for and the food is good enough to justify the mark-up. This place feels like somewhere which would be a success with visitors to Moscow – much like GlavPivTorg it is foreign enough to be intriguing, without becoming intimidating for the uninitiated. And with some of the highest quality Georgian cuisine in town, it’s worth coming back more than once. |
|
|
|
|
| 657. | Maharaja
|
Spice Girl - Alice Experiments with Indian
Maharaja was faced with a challenge: to impress two busy girls-about-town who weren't in the mood for a curry, both attempting that Lent Thing, that Weight Thing and that Wild Friday Night in Moscow Thing.
Once at our table, Natasha and I welcomed a few minutes to take stock of our surroundings. The atmosphere was civilised, friendly and surprisingly calm. With the exception of the unattractive (yet unobtrusive) chairs, the decor was unremarkable at first. After closer inspection however, I noticed some truly beautiful Indian items of furniture: chests, screens, pictures and frames, all intricately decorated. Maharaja has the potential to be truly classy. Admittedly it is still ever so slightly reminiscent of a local curry house, but such quirkiness is endearing, and it clearly doesn't deter the new-Russian clientele who were evidently enjoying the place; despite the fact that the restaurant was full; I could only spot one Indian patron.
Feeling so comfortable in our surroundings, we both immediately forgot about the Lent Thing and ordered an Indian Kingfisher Beer (125 rbl) and spent some time studying the extensive menu. (There were no less than 18 items listed under the "Vegetarian" heading, for example). Following a slight personal exposure to proper Indian cuisine, I was determined not to be satisfied with korma and a naan. So with the assistance of Rawat, the ever present and ever helpful manager, we were able to choose a varied selection of generally mouth-watering dishes.
I must say, there are few moments during the Moscow winter when, if you shut your eyes, you can imagine yourself wearing a bikini lying under a palm tree. Surprisingly, sipping the soft orange House Mango Shake (160 rbl) was one of them. A very good start. We then tried the tandoori prawns (660 rbl) and the machli tikka (450 rbl) which is a fish tandoor so tender you can slice your knife through it, no problem. The flavours were fresh and enticing yet the taste wasn't imposing. We also tried the samosa pirozhki (60 rbl) which were ever so slightly dry and floury.
For our main course, we opted for a base of plain pilau rice and peshwari naan, and accompanied these with three dishes. Palan paneer (320 rbl) which can best be described as lumps of white cheese in spinach (sounds revolting but I promise is addictive) and mung palan (450 rbl) which is chicken in the same spinach based sauce. We also sampled Baigan Bharsa (320 rbl), a weighty charcoal roasted aubergine dish which had a surprising amount of kick to it.
We had both asked for our food to be "a bit fiery but not too much". This request had clearly been taken on board because I didn't at any point feel challenged by the spiciness of the food, merely by the quantity (conveniently forgetting about the Weight Thing). Suffice to say we left happily stuffed and therefore incapable of furthering any plans to go dancing, thus Maharaja also succeeded in destroying our Wild Friday Night Thing.
Not that we were disappointed at all, on the contrary, Maharaja was a pleasant surprise. Any visit with a willingness to experiment against ordering the norm should ensure not only an education of the taste buds but also a change in curry house habits. Maharaja rose to the challenge admirably. |
|
|
|
|
| 658. | Viet Cafe
|
I believe that honesty is the best policy, I’m just a prat like that. I don’t understand why people lie when it would be just as easy to suck it up and take the consequences; Lord knows I’ve never done it. So, from the very start I have to mention that the people at Viet Cafe are liars: the 170 Rbs Business Lunch that they advertise next to their front door is a figment of someone’s overactive imagination and does not exist in any way. They do have a business lunch – in fact they have two: a European variant for 200 Rbs and a Vietnamese for 300 Rbs – but the door price seems to have been picked out of a hat, and smacked of perfidious solicitation. Okay, having got the truth telling and slander out of the way I have to say that while the proprietors of Viet Cafe may be somewhat challenged in the virtue category, they make a mean Kom Rang Chai, and isn’t that what’s important anyway?
Located on Gazetny – just down the way from FAQ cafe which, by the way, offers a Business Lunch that really costs the 159 Rbs they say it does – through a set of rather imposing wooden doors and down a flight of stairs – this is Moscow after all – Viet Cafe offers a tasty, if not particularly authentic, take on Vietnamese fare. Just watch your head on the way downstairs, because we nearly killed ourselves on the suddenly low ceiling. The decor is certainly more Moscow than Mekong, with an elegant ebony bar lining the first half of the left wall, and the requisite enormous fish tank just beyond. The businessmen – who made up at least 75% of the clientele on the Tuesday afternoon that my intrepid partner and I were there – offered no end of amusement as they stared gapingly into the tank as its colourful denizens darted to and fro; I got the same disturbing feeling as when you see a child staring longingly into a television set, actually.
Overall the restaurant has a semi-elegant but not too imposing demeanour, making it comfortable for anyone to enjoy without feeling overly anxious about attire or terrified about sanitary conditions. We sat, like everyone else except the tank worshippers – at a well apportioned black table covered with a bamboo place mat that only made me spill on myself about fourteen times as it slid back and forth with the slightest touch. The square white plates were standard for this day and age, as we seem to have witnessed the death of the standard circular model some years back now. After hitting us with some steaming hot towels our waitress was quickly with us to take our order, and that’s when the fun started.
I don’t eat meat. I don’t eat fish or chicken or shrimp. That’s what being a vegetarian means. While at most Moscow restaurants that makes ordering a treacherous affair, for fear of being told when your tofu arrives smothered in shredded pork or finding a piece of chicken floating in your vegetable soup that: “everything comes with meat. It’s vegetarian,” the menu at Viet Cafe actually warned me that the vegetable soup was made with chicken stock! And while the menu didn’t have a separate vegetarian section – there was a section called “Meat and Bird” – there were plenty of veggie friendly dishes in the “Rice and Noodle,” and “Hot and Cold Appetizer” sections to stuff myself with. Now I don’t want you to worry that, having got this far in the review it’s going to skew towards the grass and roots only tastes of the dirty hippy writing it; for the heavy lifting I brought along my side-kick Marusya, who sampled the meaty fare after which she submitted to a thorough brain and taste-bud picking.
Let’s begin at the beginning. From among the plentiful “Cold Appetizers” menu I chose the Go Chua (120 Rbs), a small dish of pickled vegetables, not unlike your usual zakuski in so many ways but one: it was spicy. Really spicy. For me that was a great start. The vegetables were crispy and firm, and the sauce wasn’t too vinegary or overpowering. Next came our appetizers, Marusya choosing the Gao Kuan Tam Txit (210 Rbs) – rice paper rolls with shrimp, tongue, egg and more – while I went the crunchy roll route with the Nem Chau (150 Rbs). Marusya assured me that her rolls were fresh and not too fishy, although she had to rip off a piece of the rice paper to have me test the firmness (it was just right). My rolls were tasty if not particularly inspired, but I’m a real snob when it comes to rolls. Having said that, they are definitely the best rolls I’ve yet had in Moscow, not the least of which is due to the delicious Nuak Mat sauce that came with both sets. The sauce was so good in fact – a salty and garlicky treat – that we kept it to eat with our main dishes.
Marusya really went the extra mile for you here kids: she braved the sure-to-come stomach ache and ordered two main courses, one a bowl of the traditional Pho noodle soup that is the staple of Vietnamese cuisine, and the other a juicy stir fried chicken filet in oyster sauce. The Pho Doga (185 Rbs) was probably the low point of her meal, which says a lot considering that she actually liked it. Her gripes were that all its contingent parts seemed to have been prepared separately, which didn’t allow for the flavors to mix well, and that it was a just a bit too salty for her tastes. She was much more taken with the stir-fry, which just about had her collapsed on the table at the first bite. The Ga Cao Khat Geu (210 Rbs) consisted of the aforementioned chicken and sauce, fried with assorted mushrooms, cashews and spring onions. From what I could tell as her eyes rolled ecstatically back in her head, the meat was in fact juicy and tender as they advertised, with the delicate sauce highlighting the flavors, not overpowering them.
My main course was less of a hit, but it was also less of a main course. I had the vegetable fried rice (140 Rbs), which, in the one instance of Moscow culinary confusion I experienced that afternoon, came with eggs even though they weren’t on the menu. The main problem with the dish was that the vegetables seemed to have come straight from the freezer, burn and all. The rice was fine, it just seemed like it would have been more at home in a shopping-mall food court than at a relatively fancy restaurant inside the circle. Oh well, you can’t win them all.
At this point I expected Marusya to bow out, leaving me to cover the varied and enticing deserts section myself, but she soldiered up and ordered the fried banana (130 Rbs), an interesting and traditional take on the staple desert. I followed suit by ordering the fried pear (180 Rbs), which although glazed with some type of wine-sauce, was not too sweet at all, but a great light finisher.
All in all, including the great pot of Jasmine tea we washed down our meals with, the whole thing only set us back $50. Marusya was less impressed with the service than I was, but she certainly didn’t think it was bad enough to preclude recommendation. If you can put up with the misleadingly-advertised price for Business Lunch – seriously guys, take that crap down – Viet Cafe is a great place to stop in for a lunch or dinner that won’t break the bank, and will leave you feeling satisfied and very, very full. |
|
|
|
|
| 659. | Laffa Laffa
|
Having a Laffa
Moscow’s cafe culture has been transformed over the years: after years of over-priced ‘see and be seen’ affairs or mediocre fast-food chains a welcome range of new openings in the past 18 months or so has taken us back to basics. Finally the city is embracing a kind of street food culture that values quality cooking and fresh ingredients ahead of pafosny posturing.
Laffa Laffa is the latest in this wave. It has two sites – one on Malaya Bronaya, the other on Neglinaya – and specialises in Middle Eastern cuisine. That means plenty of hummus and falafel, two dishes that have recently become fashionable across Moscow, but the star of the show, undoubtedly, is the shawurma.
Whatever experiences you might have had with shawurma before, rest assured that this is far removed from the old-school kiosk food that has largely disappeared from the city as mayor Sergei Sobyanin cut his swathe through the dubious vendors thronging every metro station.
Here the emphasis is absolutely on quality: meat and veg are freshly sourced each day and the ‘laffa’ flatbread that gives the cafes their name is baked to order at blistering speed. It all takes a bit longer than a minute to put the dish together – not quite the fastest food in town, but a more than fair compromise between time and quality.
Although Middle Eastern in aim, the concept was inspired more by the 15 years the owner of the business spent living between Moscow and London. Like many people familiar with both cities, she noticed that one had a vibrant, multi-national culinary scene and the other had, well, dodgy kiosks next to metro stations or ultra-pafosny posing palaces with next to nothing in between. Laffa Laffa aims to fill that gap.
Key staff were recruited from Lebanon and Syria to ensure authentic recipes – head chef Ali Al-Tikriti comes from Lebanon with several years’ experience of restaurant in his native Beirut and in Dubai; many of his colleagues arrived from Syria. Zen has come up with a menu that is both simple enough not to risk running astray but sufficiently varied to ensure that either of the two cafes would bear regular visits from nearby workers heading out on lunch breaks. The signature shawurma can be served with lamb or chicken, or falafel for vegetarians. There’s also a choice of sauces, from traditional hummus to a seldom seen (in Moscow, at least) amba sauce, a fruity confection based on mangoes that goes especially well with the chicken. Although advertised as spicy, Western palates may feel it’s a Russian take on spice, but that arguably helps the flavour come out and complement the meat rather than overpowering it beneath a big hit of chili.
It’s also worth exploring the dips: aside from hummus, there’s a good selection of rich, smoky vegetable mixes that just cry out to be scooped up on a hunk of laffa bread and wolfed down. The mukhamara, with a nutty after-taste, is certainly worth closer inspection. Once again, it’s a menu with plenty of choice for vegetarians – another selling point in a city where meat-free dishes are not always very easy to find. At present menus are only available in Russian, and the staff’s English is somewhat nervous, but the choices are straightforward enough to suggest that a fairly elementary grasp of Russian will be sufficient to place your order.
Neither cafe is large, and the tend to have a busy, lively atmosphere – especially at lunchtimes. The décor, informed by the street food concept, has a pop-art, graffiti-like vibe that fits in nicely with the ‘urban-trendy’ audience. It’s some distance from the pastiche Middle East of Sindibad, the long-serving restaurant from that region; it’s a bit edgier and cooler than that, and there’s no sign of rugs, curtains or shisha pipes anyway to be seen. That’s not to say it’s exclusively a hipsters’ paradise: both branches have become popular with some locals, particularly the Malaya Bronnaya site, which is even building an audience among the privileged pensioners around Patriarshiye.
Will it be a success? It deserves to be. Prices are reasonable for city-centre eats; a shawurma snack is 310-390 roubles depending on filling, dips and sambusiki (small parcels of stuffed savoury pastry) are 250 a serving and the whole thing, complete with a coffee and maybe a nibble of pakhlava compares favourably with a trip to Starbucks, making it a competitive city centre option. Laffa Laffa is also starting out at a good time, capitalising on the popularity of the hummus and falafel stalls that did a roaring trade in city parks and food festivals during the summer and offering them a more permanent home.
Admittedly, we’ve seen a few food fashions come and go – the brief Tex-mex craze that flickered and then died on a pyre of rising rents and falling sales springs to mind – but this project has a more enduring feel about it. First, the commitment to high quality food augurs well. Second, it seems apt to expand an existing market rather than trade purely on novelty. And third, as the rapid rise in sushi bars has proved in the past and the rise of cheap-and-cheerful Georgian joints is currently demonstrating, it is possible to pitch for that middle ground gap here, even with foods traditionally associated with a full-on restaurant experience or an expensive foreign holiday. |
|
|
|
|
| 660. | Mr. Lee
|
Mr. Lee occupies an enviable social-climbing location – on the square behind TsUM, looking across to the Bolshoi Theatre, and upstairs from social-scene-essential place-to-be-seen Vogue Caf?. The Reception Desk area would put many a snooty hotel to shame, and the presence of so many black-suited heavies as you enter the establishment is not, perhaps, the welcome the owners originally intended. It is, however, exactly the atmosphere that seems to appear to the exclusively male corporate clientele.
Our drinks were brought quite quickly, and my Singapore Sling (450 RUR) was a zesty mix and well-made. Not so Emilia’s Mai-Tai (also 450 RUR), however – which we sent back. It returned refreshed and with a more obvious taste of rum and lime – although in my book, it’s a cocktail properly served in a highball glass – not a whisky-tumbler, ehem.
The interiors are an unusual - although not unpleasant - amalgam of the usual Novikov obsessions (bookcases with fake old books in them, wine-racks with old bottles) with bits of oriental bric-a-brac allegedly fetched from Singapore by the owner in person. A series of large oriental chandeliers are among the more fortuitous elements – some rather nasty hardwood carvings left the impression of “what can we stick in this empty space?”. You get the impression that he opened the restaurant because his wife wouldn’t let him keep all this stuff at home. (Hardwood logging for this kind of tat wrecks rainforests – sad to find no-one cares about this). The emphasis is on costly luxury – or at least its exterior trappings. A second dining-room adjacent has attractive windows where you might enjoy the daylight, or views onto Moscow revellers outside by night.
Conspicuous consumption and wallet-waving are what Mr. Lee is all about. There are dishes placed strategically on the menu to permit extravagant glad-handing and corporate entertaining one-upmanship – such as Shark’s Fin Soup, which comes in at around twice the price of a nice supper in other establishments at an extraordinary 2300 roubles. Emilia was overwhelmed by indifference after trying it, but that’s not the point – the point is that it’s cost a stack. I was not only morally shamed into taking the cheapest soup on the menu in response (although hardly a snip at 400 RUR), but also mesmerised – what was Gazpacho with Avocado doing on a “pan-asiatic” menu at all? Sadly it seemed that any non-european food qualified as “pan-asiatic”, although it wasn’t a bad gazpacho in itself. We’d preceded the soups with some hot starters Crab & Prawn Spring Rolls (an eye-watering 900 RUR), and Fried Crab Wontons (950 RUR). In fact the crab wontons weren’t fried, but they were delicious anyhow, and served on a succulent reduction of seafood pan-juices that had Emilia begging for more – the star item of the evening, in fact. When you pay $33 for a portion of Spring Rolls, then frankly you expect something pretty spectacular. These aren’t – a great deal of pastry and half a prawn, all disappointingly flabby and dry. Ladling-on the accompanying mango sauce helped them along – but you shouldn’t have to.
Like many self-styled “Asiatic” restaurants in Moscow, Mr. Lee carries a sushi side-menu – something which tells you more about the clientele than the intentions of the management. We took a single 4-piece portion of Dynamite Spicy Rolls (450 RUR – less than 100 roubles per roll!) to share, to check them out. Rolls they may be – spicy they’re not.
Finally to the main courses – wok dishes, as befits a Singapore-inspired (if not actually, err, Singaporean) eaterie. Here we had both the best and the worst. The Tom-Yam Prawns (800 RUR) came recommended by the chef, and they’re scrumptious things indeed – served in a sticky-sweet sauce with a tinge of spice (I’d have preferred rather more spice), and topped with crispy fried noodles. This was, indeed, the kind of food we’d hoped to find at Mr. Lee. Regrettably Emilia’s choice was a failure. Scallops in Pepper Sauce (750 RUR) were a way of taking a delicious fresh and delicate ingredient like scallops – and smothering their taste entirely with a gluey and overpowering sauce. Once again the Novikov obsession with taking great world cuisine and making show-off bling-food out of it pulled the carpet from under a potentially winning dish.
Mr. Lee belongs to the era before the Financial Crisis – the days when money flowed like water. The prices are unjustifiable for this kind of food – especially when it can be enjoyed in equally-nice restaurants elsewhere in Moscow for far less. Frankly it would be cheaper to fly to Singapore in person than eat at Mr. Lee. (There is, we should mention, a Business Lunch menu at 500 RUR on weekdays from 12:00 until 17:00). But Mr. Lee isn’t really about eating at all – but playing “who’s got the biggest expense-account credit card”. I didn’t feel comfortable in this environment, and frankly when Emilia suggested we get coffee and dessert elsewhere, I leapt at the chance to leave. |
|
|
|
|
| 661. | Golden Apple
|
The great empires of antiquity clashed over a Golden Apple - the incident in which King Priams son Paris gave one to the Goddess Aphrodite prompted the Trojan Wars. And it was way back when Ajax and Agamemnon were still in short pants that if you wanted supper in Moscow, you went to a hotel to eat.
Positioning itself as Moscow???s entrant in the Hip Hotel stakes, the Golden Apple is a shrine of funky chic, tucked delicately off Pushkin Square on Malaya Dmitrovka. Could the Apple Bar & Restaurant flout the Road Warriors credo that the dullest supper in town is in your own hotel?
In a city already crammed with stuffy hotels modeled on Elvis Presley's bathroom the unrepentant modernism and contemporary lines of Golden Apple makes a welcome change. Strange then that the decor for the restaurant is an odd backdrop of silhouetted woodland at dusk? After the sleek modern minimalism of the lobby, this creates a more informal and restful dining area for those dining for pleasure.
The bar area (same menu available in both) reflects a more urgent and metropolitan mojo, and since all the tables there were taken we opted to dine in the woods. There are around twenty tables overall with a ratio of wait-staff to diners that is admirably generous.
And what staff they are, too...extensive knowledge of the nuances of the entire menu and seasonal specials with enviable command of stylistic English - a perfect balance between enthusiasm and helpfulness. Nor was there any cajoling towards the high-end dishes or wines, or to over-order. Whilst we pored over the menu a complimentary gazpacho cocktail appeared ??? piquant and very pleasant.
Apple Bar features a permanent menu of international dishes alongside a Specials menu that changes monthly. July???s theme was summer fruits so I pitched in with a Fruity-Cool cocktail (350 Rbs) that slipped down so easily that I had another before really noticing how potent the blend of vodka, banana liqueur, and fruit brandy was. Equally powerful was my friend Olga???s Cosmopolitan (280 Rbs) - but its concentrated intensity didn???t hit the mood, and it languished unfinished.
The prompt and cheerful service quickly rustled-up two contrasting salads alongside some delicious home-baked bread. Olga munched happily on a Crispy Frisee Salad with Deepfried Seafood on a Rasberry Coulis (360 Rbs), pausing only to lament the fate of the junior octopuses therein. My own salad was a shameless splurge, but worth every kopek of 750 Rbs for the self-righteous glow achieved from near-fatless Lobster-Mango Salad. A Classic Mojito came along (for 390 Rbs) to replace the unappreciated Cosmo, and this prompted the order of wine for the main courses. As usual our ideas on choosing red or white differed - but Apple Bar has a good selection of wines by the glass. With a beef entree in view Olga went for a luscious Concha y Toro Trio for just 240 Rbs. My white was 2005 Tavel Prestige des Lauzeraies with elegant crispness as a counterpoint to fish, but since I was already three sheets to the wind after the deadly Fruity-Cools - and moreover because the wine was 380 Rbs per succulent glassful - I limited myself to just one, with healthy gulps of Evian alongside.
We moved on to the entrees, and Olga followed the waitress's strong recommendation for the Entrecote (800 Rbs), which came magnificent presented with coriander and black pepper, with a gratin of potato and mushroom If you prefer your steak well-done then remember to ask them - the default order is lightly seared only. My misgivings that Salmon + Cod Baked in Filo Pastry (680 Rbs) might be dry were unfounded some nice Hollandaise kept things agreeably moist, and all light and delicate enough to leave space for dessert.
Following her more classical theme Olga chose a Classic Baked Cheesecake - a dish that is often dehydrated tvorog on toast in Moscow, but this one was spot-on for 250 Rbs. The same asking-price brought some very good marinated figs and the curtain came down on some Margentau loose leaf tea (160 Rbs) and my habitual Double Espresso (210 Rbs).
Clearly the menu-pricing is aimed at Business Travelers - and these were clearly 90% of our fellow diners. However the contemporary decor - and welcome absence of blaring Russian pop - earmark Apple Bar as an ideal place for continuing business discussions over an elegant supper. When entertaining clients the last thing you need is wrangles with the waiters, and the super service here makes it a strong recommendation on that score. |
|
|
|
|
| 662. | Nedalny Vostok (Not Far East)
|
Nedalny Vostok – suave & sophisticated asian-fusion dining
If Moscow is a city of playboys, then Nedalny Vostok is where they go to play. It’s another in the eaterie empire of Moscow’s most ubiquitous and successful restaurateur, Arkady Novikov. Novikov-spotters will already know that he never repeats himself, and the formula for each of his projects is always something entirely innovative and unique. But the guiding hallmarks of uncompromised quality and excellence unite these hugely disparate dining-places – any surprises you get in them will only be happy ones.
Nedalny is still headed-up by Executive Chef Glen Ballis, who first opened the restaurant several years ago. It’s a welcome contrast to the quality nosedive swiftly taken after opening by most other new restaurants in Moscow – the warmth of the welcome at Nedalny, and the piquancy of the menu haven’t flagged in the intervening years… if anything, they’ve even picked-up. It’s something they are acutely aware of at Nedalny Vostok – “You’re only as good as the last meal you served!” comes the self-reproving cry – and at these prices, the customers have a right to expect perfection every time. Ballis’s wide experience cooking throughout SE Asia serves to enliven an Australian approach to cuisine that’s already refreshingly unfettered by convention. But innovative combinations of simple ingredients only work if those ingredients are astoundingly, enviably fresh, and of unimpeachably top quality. It’s a winning combination for those whose credit-cards will stretch to the experience – and that’s quite a stretch.
If other Novikov restaurants are about showing-off, or sealing the deal, then Nedalny is more a place you’d come with your friends. The low ceilings and delicate lighting add an intimacy to what might otherwise be an intimidating space – and placed at the very centre are the chefs themselves, doing their stuff right in front of your very eyes. This warm and social atmosphere is encouraged by the menu – the Asian roots of many of the dishes make them ideal for sharing. The interiors are achieved with stylish contemporary Japanese elegance, and everything is calculated to put you at your ease – there’s no stiffness or standing upon ceremony here. The presentation has a graceful oriental simplicity that makes lingering over dishes a pleasure – this is food for enjoying and savouring, and not for showing-off about fish-knives or crab-crackers.
Offered a choice from the cocktail menu, Marusya’s eyes shot swiftly to the Chef’s Specialities – something I’ve learned from experience to avoid. Barmen worldwide haven’t come up with classic cocktails just by chance, and pretenders to the throne have to try extra-hard. A Seka (870 RUR) promised lush fruity tastes, but turned-out to be unduly sweet – my choice of a Mai-Tai (770 RUR) turned out to be wiser, and it was a real classic of the genre, deliciously made.
We ate lightly at lunchtime, and all the dishes were ideal for sharing – so we did. If a tomato carpaccio sounds rather unexciting – especially at 790 RUR – in fact it was my favourite dish of the entire meal, due to superlatively succulent beef-tomatoes and a coriander-miso dressing that turned them into a gourmet treat. Another of Glen Ballis’s dishes with a secret magic ingredient was the Crunchy Beef Carpaccio (640 RUR) – which turns-up slightly arranged on delicate crisps with an appealing aroma of truffle oil and a grated parmesan topping, and it all disappeared very easily indeed. Hearing of my veggie inclinations, the chefs rustled up a Tofu with SE Asian Spices & Edamame Beans, with a delicately light texture – not on the menu, but available anyhow for 590 RUR. Another item which we took on the restaurant’s recommendation was Tiger Prawns with miso mayonnaise (490 RUR). These came with a scattering of very strongly-flavoured ham shreds, which divided opinions – personally I felt they wrecked the delicate taste of the prawns. Marusya felt less strongly about this – well, she finished the plateful, so clearly she enjoyed them.
In the hands of an Australian chef in Russia, I couldn’t resist trying his own special take on a dessert created for the ballerina Pavlova’s gala performance in Sydney – Pavlova (590 RUR). And it delivered its very own pas-de-deux, brought to life with coconut meringues replacing the traditional ones, raspberry coulis, and pistachio ice-cream at the centre. But Nedalny’s Confectionery Chef is a star in his own right, Kobayashi Katsuhiko, and Marusya was more tempted by his Violet, which was a panna cotta with raspberry mousse - modest and dainty at a mere 490 RUR.
The brasserie style of the menu makes Nedalny Vostok an ideal location for anything from an elegant light snack with a friend through to an engaging multi-course meal with your business guests. The lighthearted decor favours a more social context for your meal, and in the evening there are DJs from 9pm onwards. For a very upscale dining experience, it’s up there among the world’s top eateries. |
|
|
|
|
| 663. | Bookafe
|
Looking to dazzle your friends as a cultured hipster - without breaking the bank? Bookafe is basically "Museum" - but for less than half the price. The strongest thing in its favour is the "statement" you make by naming it as your rendezvous - this is so cool it's almost off the thermometer. The three rooms are all set-up with the same furniture and physical decor - but each is colour-designed to set a different mood. The yellow room is light, bright and awash with positive aura; the red room is perfect for dark deeds and illicit liaisons; and on the basis of "blue for a boy", the blue room is more suited to a lad's night out. And the books? Well, they line the walls, covers facing outwards, establishing fashion that's both cerebral and visual. You are welcome to take down a book and flick through whilst you dine, if you wish? There are art books, deep philosophy, or artistic erotica amongst the many on view - but primarily they are there to establish an ambience. The project's been designed by architectural bureau 69 - also responsible for the interiors at vogue eateries like "Zhioltoye More" and "Goa".
The menu leans heavily towards the Italian Mediterranean, and indeed they've just introduced a new range of pizzas (250-450Rb) with inventive toppings (10% discount on take-out). The menu's innovative if not extensive, and it required a Mochito (180Rb) and a Cosmopolitan (195Rb) from their cocktail-list to concentrate our thoughts whilst choosing the main action of the evening. The Mochito was suitably subtle and had most of a market-garden of mint piled into the glass for good measure - whilst the Cosmopolitan was utterly delicious. The more health-concious might have headed for the fresh-pressed fruit and vegetable cocktails on offer (all in the 300Rb bracket) - bristling with vitamins to reinforce you against the dual onslaughts of crappy weather and heavy partying that mark the Year End in Moscow.
A very munchable bread-basket appeared, and immediately behind it came our appetiser courses. The Mesclan Salad (350Rb) is pretty simple- in fact, it's basically a green salad, but there's a nice assortment of leaves, including a bit of ruccola and endive. Interactivity's encouraged at Bookafe, and not only with the books. Many of the dishes arrive with the final stage to be completed by the diner - salads arrive with dressing served separately, squeezable lemons come in elegant net coverings. It all adds an element of theatre, and fills up the table with exotica. But where was the goat's cheese? Aha, there it was - in camouflage uniform, rolled in herbs - although the quantity was a bit sparse even so. By contrast, Mussels with Wine & Lemon (660Rb) were a huge portion, enough for a supper by itself. Good, big mussels in prime condition, with a piquant bouillon that divided opinion - my co-reviewer found it one of the best in Moscow though a bit salty.
The lull between courses offered another chance to glance around the premises. The design is quite "edgy" - so minimalist that it might even look a little poverty-stricken? This isn't a place to bring your newly-arrived friend from Novy Urengoy - who might wonder if this isn't an intense case of the Emperor's New Clothes? However, the trendy intellectual set who gather at Bookafe aren't at all deterred by this - and they are a diverse breed, including several older diners unphased by the contemporary decor.
Moving on to the mains, my dining companion was only moderately happy here. The Swordfish with risotto (550Rb) was chewier than expected, although attractively charred on the plate. The risotto was more liberally buttered than might have been ideal - although within the boundaries of acceptability. My veggie-oriented Buckwheat crepe with mushrooms (190Rb) arrived stuffed with a massive amount of molten cheese (not alluded to in the menu) that made it a bit indigestible, and swamped the delicate mushroom flavour.
All the Desserts weigh-in in the 250-350Rb vicinity. Figs with rosemary were pleasantly tart - although served on a not-entirely-successful biscuit-creme base, whilst the Cream with Forest Fruits was too cloying to enjoy, and went back largely untouched. The coffee , though, was the best we'd had in a Moscow restaurant in a long time.
Bookafe advertises itself as a "conceptual cafe", and as a venue to meet your cooler friends, it's ideal. The welcome is warm, and they have undoubtedly the most charming door staff in the city (please take note, other venues! Extras from "Brat II" don't make good door staff!). If you have a product to launch, or a reception to organise, it's a stylish location that is well worth checking out. |
|
|
|
|
| 664. | Gavroche
|
Going into this review, with a name like Gavroche, I was intrigued, to say the least. I did some quick research on location since finding places in Moscow is usually hit, miss, and frustration.
Arriving to Gavroche by car is a bit tricky. Building 11 is a Soviet monolith that occupies nearly the entire block. We parked on the street at an available spot, and we were at the wrong end of the street, as luck would have it. However, Gavroche has a parking lot “in the back” that actually had available spots, so call ahead.
Metro stop is Park Kultury, and it is not a difficult walk to Gavroche – investigate prior and you will arrive without problem. Note, though, that the entrance is well-marked, but across from building 26.
For me, an increasing portion of the buying decision is simple – free WiFi, yes or no? I am madly loyal to Coffee House (I am here now) because they have free WiFi. I avoid Shokoladnitza and Starbucks precisely because they do not have free WiFi. It’s not a question of money – the free portion – it is a question of make it convenient for me, and I will give you my business and tell others to do the same.
Gavroche, I am happy to say – and as a pleasant surprise – has free WiFi announced by a sign that jumps out on the front door, and WiFi that works good. I had my iPad with me, so it was really a super addition. Small example – I did not know what “Gavroche” is or meant. Two seconds later, Victor Hugo and Les Miserables. Kudos to Gavroche for being, well, smart and recognizing its clientele.
I am a born cynic and that is how I went into Gavroche. I, however, do not have expectations that are not reasonable. On every count, Gavroche met my expectations – and, in all fairness, exceeded them as well.
With regard to interior, Gavroche is sleek and tastefully done. Nice and quiet. You can have a conversation easily across the table without having to huddle or yell. That was a huge plus, in addition to the fact that you are not crowded into a puny table. In short, you can relax, and you quickly do. Not the pretentious kind of relax, but actually feel at ease.
There is a seasonal terrace outside with sofa seating with blankets and space heaters available upon request. Inside, you do not feel cigarette smoke since it is whisked out almost immediately the central air system.
With regard to service, Gavroche does extremely well. Our waitress, Julia, was very attentive, but not over- attentive. Maybe I am alone in being annoyed when I finish my last bite – or not even finish it – and the plate is already off the table, seized by the hawk-eyed waiter or waitress who makes me feel like I am somehow not eating fast or efficiently enough.
This is not the case at Gavroche – again, you can relax here. Enjoy your seat, surf the net a bit, and eat at your own pace.
Gavroche is a wine bar with a sommelier that is happy to guide you through choices to meet your mood or entree. About 140 different wines are listed, with the most expensive approximately 17500 RUR, but with very nice bottles in the 2500 to 3500 RUR range.
Menus are in English and Russian, in separate covers, and, very importantly, they match each other. Where this is nice is if you are with somebody who does not speak English, he/she can suggest something, show it to you on his/her menu, and it will match up the English menu for you to poke at for your waitress. A small criticism is that portion sizes are not noted.
We started the meal with wine (Gentil Hugel Alsace, 270 RUR glass and Givry, 390 glass) that was recommended by the sommelier, as well as two appetizers – an artichoke, onions, and pickles assortment (290 RUR) and a cured meat platter assortment (470 RUR). The wine was excellent and the dishes came quickly, as well as a nice bowl of baguette style bread with soft butter. Both dishes were a super start to the dining experience, and there is a wide array of appetizers from which you can choose to suit your taste.
Again, with WiFi and an iPad on-hand, we enjoyed the quiet – but not empty – atmosphere and the good wine with appetizers. There was no rush to order, and we did not feel rushed.
I was not sure what I wanted to order for my entree, so I told Julia to surprise me. No fish, no pasta, but everything else was, as you can say, on the menu. We did, however, order two other entrees to have a basis of comparison – duck breast with cranberry sauce (590 RUR) and steamed/grilled cod with vegetables and rice (470 RUR).
The cod was very well prepared and flavorful. Duck is also something that I tend to stay away from because any time that I have ordered it in Moscow, I have been painfully disappointed – too dry, overcooked, and really just not up to par. However, the duck was excellent. In fact, it was as perfect as really possible – and for a person like me who is not a big fan of this meat, that says a lot about Gavroche’s cook and recipes.
Honestly, when I said “surprise me”, I wanted the ribeye steak (950 RUR), medium done. Julia must have saw it in my eyes because that is exactly what she brought me, accompanied by a nice bowl of fresh greens and round/cube cut French fries that came with a bottle of Heinz ketchup too. No bowl of 50g – for the first time anywhere not Starlite Diner was I presented with my own bottle of ketchup.
The ribeye was super. Just super. The sauce that accompanied brought out the inherent flavor of the cut of meat. It was cooked to perfection, and exceeded my expectations in every way. A nice steak in Moscow at a reasonable price is hard to find since the price-good steak or not gamut is always a shot in the dark. If simply for another steak and big beer, I will be back to Gavroche.
I forgot to mention – before enjoying the entrees, we were able to consult with the sommelier again about wines that would go well with the dishes. He suggested Chablis Grand Regnard (590 RUR glass) and Pouilly Fuisse Faiveley Le Marconnais (470 RUR glass). The Chablis was good, but the first white wine got the green light our party for the best combination with a nice fish dish. The Pouilly was a perfect match for the duck entree. For my exquisite ribeye – nothing beats a big .5L Kronenburg draft (210 RUR), even if you are in a wine bar with a selection as deep as Gavroche’s.
Dinner complete and extremely satisfied. We chatted amongst ourselves for 20 minutes or so before considering dessert. Looked up a few more random things using WiFi, made some phone calls with Skype, and was pulled in for dessert.
My huge conundrum is cheesecake in Moscow since, generally, good cheesecake is even harder to find than your own bottle of ketchup. The best cheesecake in the world is made by my Uncle Bruce in the US. He knows this, and the world knows this.
However, Uncle Bruce, you have a worthy competitor in the cheesecake with strawberry sauce (320 RUR) offered at Gavroche. I have had cheesecake at inexpensive and expensive places in Moscow – and few have scored memorable – but my quote when wolfing mine down with my Americano (190 RUR) and Sambuca Molinari (290 RUR) was, “(t)his is the best damn cheesecake in Moscow!”, and it is.
We tried two other deserts as well – a Sotern with Thai Orchid (380 RUR) and chocolate fudge mindal cake (310 RUR) with a cappuccino (130 RUR) for my dining partner. I came out of my cheesecake bliss to try both of them, and both were very nice. Sotern was a new dish for me, and it was a nice, light composition. The chocolate fudge mindal, I postulate, was as much a round piece of heaven for chocolate lovers as my round piece of heaven cheesecake.
The appealing and relaxing atmosphere at Gavroche lasts the entire meal. I have had hard time thinking about “how” to express the atmosphere in words. Instead, I prefer to use examples.
For instance, Gavroche is a restaurant that would be perfect if you had friends or family visiting and you want a place that you can sit down to catch up. For those in a party like this, WiFi allows the just arrived to get caught up on things like email, places he/she would like to see in Moscow, and the like. The menu is diverse enough to satisfy most dining preferences, and, moreover, the wine list is impeccable in selection and pricing.
If not a friends and family type gathering, Gavroche is perfect for entertaining business clients, professional colleagues, or co-workers. Location is central, parking lot close, terrace available, excess seating upon request can be reserved, and it is a quite place for uninterrupted conversations.
In closing, I give Gavroche a ringing Purdy Five-Star Endorsement on all accounts. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend Gavroche to anybody in the Expat.ru community looking for a new place to try or a familiar place to return to you on your second, third, fourth, et al visits! |
|
|
|
|
| 665. | Syr (Cheese)
|
Relaxed and grown-up Italian restaurant where the food is the centre of attention.
Arkady Novikov has eateries where it’s all about you (Vogue Cafe). And he has eateries where it’s all about him (Galleria). But before either of those came Syr, where it’s all about the food - and still is. Almost everyone knows where CHEESE (“Syr”) is – you can’t miss it as your taxi trundles past on the Garden Ring, it’s the place with the model of a chunk of cheese on its roof. (They really should consider taking that thing down now). But yesterday’s young cheese is today’s vintage classic, and Syr has not just moved on with the times, but led from the front. The recently remodelled interiors are joined by an elegant staircase – cheese-themed on the ground floor, the last word in subdued post-modern elegance and contemporary chic upstairs.
As the urbane General Director, Albert Danielyan, puts it succinctly – “at Syr, everything is harnessed to presenting fabulous food. The choice of ingredients, the range of the menus, the decor, the furnishings… nothing takes away from the food, and the delicate harmony in each of the dishes. It’s unusual, almost unique, for a contemporary Moscow restaurant – we eschew glamour in favour of gastronomy, and we don’t apologise for that.” He isn’t joking. Every millimetre of glam and glitz has been carefully excluded in favour of subdued and understated contemporary design. Syr is a modern theatre, where the food is the spotlight, and the diners are the audience.
But neither is Syr an ascetic foodie temple either – a subtle and sophisticated welcome awaits. I stumbled through its doors on the hottest day of the year, with the mercury showing +37C and my face the colour of gazpacho. I was also my habitual seven minutes late – for a dinner-date who doesn’t appreciate being kept waiting. Some iced water and some towels appeared without beckoning, along with the suggestion of sitting upstairs – “M’sieur will find it rather cooler”, they smiled. Marusya, fortunately, was held-up in traffic, and by the time she arrived I was the very picture of calm composure. This all afforded the chance to visit the swanky loos, and cast an initial eye over the menu – with the Summer Special Menu delicately mentioned by the waiter.
The aperitifs appeared considerably before the story of the delayed arrival was done, and we settled comfortably into a corner table, with air-conditioning set sensibly to “pleasant ambient” rather than “Ice Station Zebra”. The Forest Berry Crush (380 RUR) had an almost miraculous mood-restoring effect on Marusya, whilst my rather staid choice of a Classic Mojito (440 RUR) was a mixologist’s manna, and hit the spot most neatly. A selection of breads (wheat rolls, sumptuous rye-bread and some lavash) came in a stylish paper cone, with hot toasts and dips to savour. With carbs and oils declared persona non grata by Marusya, the perfect appetiser came from the Summer Menu – Scallop Tartare with melon, asparagus and limoncello (1200 RUR), and the mouth-wateringly fresh flavours proved a perfect balance. I was having none of that, and tucked in to Avocado & Artichoke Salad (860 RUR for a gigantic portion – which went very extremely well with the bread). Feeling somewhat chastened by Marusya’s noble self-denial, I followed suit and chose a Gazpacho Chilled Soup (560 RUR), which came with a free portion of smugness. Doing that “you try a bit of mine” thing, I have to say I regretted missing the Summer Celery Soup With Egg & Truffle (960 RUR) – which is a sort of orgasm in a bowl, and probably shouldn’t be served to under-18s. Of course at that price it ought to be stupendous too – and this doesn’t disappoint.
And here we took a pause to refill our drinks, ask for some more water, and quietly digest what was merely Act One of the performance. The entire culinary drama is the brainchild of Novikov star chef Mircko Zago, whose route to Moscow lay through Aosta, Gstaad, Rome, and Verona. His culinary daring has won him awards in Italy, where he is well-known on television. His work creating banquets for the Russian Presidency, however, was an appropriately more discreet affair. In addition to his work at Syr, Mircko Zago has been the Consultant Chef on many other new Novikov restaurants – including Galleria, Cantinetta Antinori and Nedal’ny Vostok.
Meanwhile, our main courses – presented with artistic beauty on fine white porcelain – came speeding from the kitchen. One of the best features of the finest kind of service in a restaurant is that you hardly notice it happening around you – you can leave your semaphore manuals and signalling coughs at home. Marusya’s eye had fallen on the Medallions of Beef with Thyme (1300 RUR), and they were every bit as tender as the waiter had faithfully promised. My usual habit of choosing the gonzo main dish from the menu was fustrated – there are no duds here, and Grilled Scallops with Mediterranean Ratatouille were worth every last rouble of 1600 RUR.
But.. where was the cheese? I’d had none so far, and decided to pass-up on the desserts in favour of putting the cheese-board to the test. There’s gorgonzola and gorgonzola, (300 RUR) but this was tantalisingly good, and any wistful regret for the tempting pannacotta instantly passed. Meanwhile, however, all the good intentions across the table that had marked the earlier stages were now thrown to the wind… a Raspberry Millefeuille (700 RUR) was heartily consumed in short order, with a growing chorus of yummy appreciation as its several layers disappeared. Tea and coffee came along with perfect timing.
None of this, you will already have noticed, is aimed at the credit-crunched – but in fairness, Mr Novikov’s culinary nest is home to a good clutch of value-priced eateries too. Syr doesn’t really have serious competitors in Moscow – you would need an air-ticket to head off in search of anything quite as good as this in the world. In Moscow, it simply doesn’t get better than this. |
|
|
|
|
| 666. | Kolbasoff-2
|
When the man and I set out to try Kolbasoff’s newest location near metro Oktyabrskoye Polye, I was more or less expecting to have an experience similar to what we found at the Kolbasoff location at metro Taganskaya. And as far as some aspects were concerned, there were indeed similarities. But this time around I left feeling much more optimistic about Kolbasoff and the possibilities therein.
This newer Kolbasoff venue is not in a central location, but rather in an area in north(-western) Moscow that has seen quite a few new developments over the past couple of years. Kolbasoff is about a ten minute (or less) walk from the metro (or about a 10 minute marshrutka ride from Sokol) on the third floor of the Fifth Avenue shopping center. The lower floor of the restaurant includes a long bar and a large room with tables, while the smaller upstairs is mostly equipped with booths. The design is very modern, using predominantly black and white, and before the game came on Mr. Polly was treated to at least one hour of Fashion TV.
We’re not sure if the menu has changed at all at the Taganskaya location, but we much preferred the menu at Oktyabrskoye Polye. For one, at least at this location, there is more than just sausage on the menu. There are salads with actual leafy green lettuces, such as ruccolla; there are salads with just vegetables in them for our non-meat-eating friends. There are steaks and cuts of meat that have not been turned into sausage, there are two fish entr?e selections and there is one mushroom and potato entr?e, again for the vegetarians. Granted, the first two pages of the menu are mainly cured meat appetizers, and some of the soups do feature sausage, but it is a sausage-themed restaurant after all. Let there be meat.
The back of the menu includes three pages of beer selections, and most of the draught beer choices can be served in small (0.33L), medium (0.5L) or large (1L) glasses. Beer prices ranged from average to pretty steep (120-upwards of 300Rbs). As I have already mentioned, I was very pleasantly surprised to find Newcastle on the menu – the first time I personally have seen this beer in Moscow (210Rbs for half liter). Another interesting beer option was Spirit of Hemp, which I tried for the first time. (It smells a little skunky, but basically tastes like your average light beer.)
For starters, I ordered a ruccolla and frisee salad with shrimp and mushrooms (310Rbs) and beef carpaccio (180Rbs), while Mr. Polly decided to try the Kolbasoff soup (180Rbs) and the boiled beer shrimp (180Rbs). I really enjoyed the salad, although I did wish it had a bit more mushrooms in it (they were excellent). The shrimp with the salad were succulent and brushed with a nice garlicky pesto sauce. Upon tasting his soup, the ingredients of which include soft cheese, white sausage (a little spicy!), pepper and tomatoes, Mr. Polly informed me that he wanted me to write that he loves Kolbasoff 2. I tried a spoonful, and agreed. It was thick, filling, and had a nice flavor and just the right amount of spice. Although he was slightly disappointed with the Spaten beer (95Rbs for a 0.33L), I was thoroughly savoring my rare Newcastle.
My beef carpaccio was served with raw mushrooms and celery, slice of lemon and lime and nice thin strips of fresh parmesan with some stray ruccolla leaves. I quite liked the meat itself, which I found delicate but flavorful. However, it did seem as though some of the slices had soaked in a little too much balsamic. Meanwhile, Mr. Polly commented on his beer shrimp, which he said were good, but nothing out of the ordinary.
Meanwhile, Mr. Polly tried a glass of Velvet beer (150Rbs for 0.4L and 290 for 1L), which he spoke highly of, and later Hoffbrau (120-0.33 / 180-1L). I toyed with the idea of trying a bottle of First Lady (290 Rbs – 0.33L), mainly because it was allegedly a beer made expressly for women, but then decided against it and got a Krusovice instead (105Rbs –0.33L / 170 0.5L).
We had a tough time decided on our entrees – we were wavering between the turkey sausage (320Rbs) and the ostrich sausage (450Rbs) or a steak. Kolbasoff 2’s menu offers both their own special Kolbasoff steak (580Rbs) and Angus steak (540Rbs). In the end, since we were in a sausage place, we decided we should eat the sausages. I ordered the turkey sausage and Mr. Polly ordered the ostrich sausage plate. Both were served with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes (served, funnily enough, as a little face: the sausage is the smile, the mashed potatoes have two gherkins for eyes and there is a stewed tomato in the sauerkraut for a nose).
Both of our sausages were fresh and juicy – my turkey sausage was a bit too juicy, almost kind of watery. This did not lend the best flavor to the turkey, which had not been cooked with any spices or onions or anything at all. A touch of anything would have really picked the dish up. Mr. Polly’s ostrich sausage, however, had a very nice flavor and was mixed with a touch of scallions. We were both ostrich virgins prior to this and were pleased with the freshness and the taste. He cleaned his plate, but I only ate about half of my sausage, if that much.
Mr. Polly decided to try the tiramisu for dessert (170Rbs), which was really a beauty of a piece of cake – really nicely presented. I only got to try a bit before Mr. Polly inhaled it all (which means it was very good).
The service was simply superb. Our waiter was efficient and completely non-intrusive, always there at the right time. What’s more, when we left I was careless enough to have left my cell phone on the table. I didn’t realize this until the next morning, but when we called to ask if it was there – it was! They had taken care to set it aside, which is a lot more than can be said for many Moscow establishments.
We had a very nice evening and although the prices seemed to be a little steeper from what we remembered from the Kolbasoff restaurant at Taganskaya, we will definitely consider going back again. |
|
|
|
|
| 667. | The Wild Donkey Bar
|
From reading its website, News and More (NM) had great potential. I really like the idea of a place to be able to relax, read newspapers and magazines, and take a time out from busy Moscow. However, what NM does not quite understand is that Moscow is full of places offering essentially the same vibe – they are called coffee shops and number in the hundreds, if not thousands, and with prices that are much easier on the wallet.
NM’s website is better than most that I have seen, with a concise description of how to find the restaurant and a history of the building. The location is immediately on the Garden Ring near the American Embassy, but not especially close to any metro. Krasnopresnenskaya, Smolenskaya, and Arbatskaya are your closest metro stations, all of them more than a “five minute walk”. Street parking can be problematic too since the building is located on an exit from the Garden Ring – if you do not find parking, you are either going right to Kievskiy Vokzal or left and around to the Garden Ring again.
From my glancing view, NM does have some cozy, darker sitting areas that would better fit its theme of relaxing pseudo-coffee and news shop. However, all of those areas are smoking areas, so we were led into a formal dining room. It was quite the contrast from what I had expected – closer to my grandma’s stuffy dining room on a Sunday or a 50th birthday party in a nicely decorated Soviet Academy of Physics. That is, interior is “well done” on a standalone basis of cost of materials and composition, but it does not fit NM’s theme or raison d’être really in any way.
In contrast, in Seattle there is a café with a similar theme called The Library Café. I was a there many times years ago, and I relish it to this day. Books, magazines, mismatched silverware, creaky tables, and awesome food at reasonable prices – truly a place where you could take oasis from a busy day.
This is what NM is trying to deliver – a kind of folksy, kick back with a newspaper place. A dining room with seemingly 5 forks, 5 knives, and all the other accoutrements expensive dining do not mesh with this mission statement. Either a place in going to be fine dining or not; it is virtually impossible to be both.
To the food specifics, however, and there are highlights, but these highlights were tempered with the huge amounts of dead time between dishes.
We began with an appetizer of prosciutto di parma served on fresh melon (420 RUB) and a chicken quesadilla (420 RUB). Upon finally arriving to the table, both of these were actually very good. I have had bad, but expensive, prosciutto in Moscow all too often; NM’s prosciutto was just right. Quesadilla was served with 4 different sauces; I would readily order it again if dining at NM.
Borsch (350 RUB) came much later – kind of an encore to the appetizer, but still very distant to entrées that would arrive at some point in the distant future.
My dining partner ordered sea trout (690 RUB) that was served with vegetables and pineapple sauce, and I opted for the signature cheeseburger with country fries (490 RUB) upon reading the inviting description in the menu.
The sea trout was rated excellent in terms of taste, presentation, portion size, and the composition as a whole – good vegetables, sauces, and flavorful resonance.
My cheeseburger was likely the only time that I have not finished a cheeseburger ever in my life. First and foremost, the waiter did not ask how I wanted it cooked, and, from the receipt, decided that I must have looked like a “medium rare” carnivore. I remember after the first few bites – and, heck, it had been about 45 minutes since the borsch, or so it seemed, and I was hungry – I said, “Really, this tastes horrible, if you can call having no taste a distinctly horrible taste.”
Maybe the cheeseburger would have tasted as good as it looks on the website photos if it HAD BEEN COOKED. Since I have no basis of comparison, I have to give it a nearly 500 ruble failing grade and consider myself lucky that I did not order the steak, as it would have likely came freshly hacked from a bloody side of beef, slapped on the grill for five seconds, brought out on a fancy plate, and put between fork number 4 and knife number 3 on the table.
For dessert, we chose one crème broule (190 RUB), Americano (100 RUB), and latte (250 RUB). At that point, dessert was an unsmiling asterisk to a two hour dining experience that should have taken about an hour, such a long period in which I would have thought my cheeseburger could have been cooked properly. Dessert and coffee were fine, but, again, like having dessert and coffee in my grandma’s stuffy dining room.
The check came, and we were ready to go. A part of me wanted to explore the establishment to be able to offer a more robust review, but a much bigger part of me just wanted to find the car keys faster, followed by the door. It would have been nice if, at some point in the marathon, the manager – or, ahem, even our waiter – would have come up and asked how things were going or attempt to tell us more about NM. Total bill was 3360 RUB plus gratuity (which I left grudgingly); I would have valued the experience at much less and would have walked out about 45 minutes into the meal.
In closing, NM falls into the category of restaurants that I would recommend only to a very limited number of people and with qualifications. If you are near the American Embassy and want a place with good WiFi and coffee, check out NM. If you are near the American Embassy and want a place offering a reasonable value proposition AND good food, check out Novinsky Passazh, namely Mamina Pasta. Hopefully NM finds its religion in the future, but I will not be rushing back to find out for myself. |
|
|
|
|
| 668. | Frendy's
|
In contrast to a recent review of a restaurant that I will refrain from naming – a place that may very well not exist when you read this review – I liked Frendy’s.
In fact, I not only liked Frendy’s, I was, and am, enamored with this small, cozy American-style diner on Ulitsa Pokrovka. Since our initial, virgin dinner on a windy, cold night in March, I have returned there two more times with friends.
Your first challenge with regard to Frendy’s is arriving. The location is equidistant between three metro stations – Kitay-Gorod, Chistiye Prudy, and Kurskaya – and Ulitsa Pokrovka is a long, one-way street if you are driving.
The location, however, is not a deal breaker and, for my taste, is more of an asset than a liability. In Moscow, I like smaller establishments that are not “so easy” to get to because, well, there tend to be less people, and fewer throngs of customers means that your business is “better valued” and results in a better dining experience.
If walking, get off at either Kitay-Gorod or Chistiye Prudy. It’s a 10 to 15 minute walk to Frendy’s on main streets, and in the Spring, Summer, or Fall, this walk is enjoyable and gives you an easy entry into a unique area of Moscow. Look for the big, lighted, yellow-hued sign – take a right through a small courtyard, and you are there.
Frendy’s occupies the third floor of a rustic, historic building. The second floor is occupied by the Bentley Hotel, and both businesses fall under the same ownership umbrella.
Upon making it up the stairs, you will realize immediately that three flights of stairs for such a cool diner is a fair trade indeed. The space that the designers had to use in formulating Frendy’s is challenging - Third floor, attic-style ceilings, and really only one possible natural light area.
Many restaurants in Moscow attempt to deliver either trendy-dark-expensive-depression or uber lighted-faux-expensive-bubble gum – and generally FAIL at delivering anything. Few restaurants “get it” and deliver the simple ambiance that Frendy’s does through its use of the right lighting, mirrors, and seating arrangement. Throughout the meal, I gushed to my dining partner – “I really like this place, even more than – ahem – Starlite”. From the dreary weather outside to the warm, lively reception inside – Frendy’s gets a 10 on atmosphere and setting.
To note, however, Frendy’s is not large and while it’s still a newer establishment, limited seating capacity is less of a dire issue. On the other hand, with a challenging location, if I were a walk-up diner who had made the trek to Frendy’s only to find out that I had to wait for a table, I would not be singing Fred Astaire with a smile. In the warmer months – and this is what will garner my Spring/Summer business – there will be seating, and perhaps a separate menu, in the courtyard outside.
Frendy’s also does not have free Wi-Fi access for customers and it can be challenging to catch a good signal in the building. It is generally a huge minus for me to not have readily-available Wi-Fi access, but I understand that the manager will add WiFi in the near future, as well as a loyalty/discount program and other promotions.
For the unabashedly American or Russian hamburger soul, the menu at Frendy’s is heaven. Keep this in mind when you go there – Frendy’s does not pretend to be something it is not. It is an American diner, and it does not portend to be everything for everybody.
The menu reads like an All-Star list of the foods that are the death of the Pax Americana and will be the downfall of the rising Asian Tiger. From my vivid memory, cheeseburgers, chicken wings, nachos, Philly cheesesteak, seasoned french fries, onion rings, chili, nachos, omlets, eggs over easy, ranch dressing (a first in Moscow for me), the seemingly mandated-by-law Caesar salad, and porridge. In short, every selection on the menu was appealing for me, even the porridge.
We started with two appetizers, and it was hard to choose just two from the tantalizing list. We settled on boneless BBQ-flavored chicken wings (465 RUB) and Frendy’s nachos (380 RUB), to be doused separately and exclusively in a cold bottle of Coors Light (115 RUB) and milkshake (240 RUB).
Warning: Like the American waistline and ego, love it or hate it, the portions at Frendy’s are All-American too. That is, they are BIG. Actually, “big” is unfair – they are huge, and savory to the last gram!
The chicken wings came out first, and were immaculate. Then the huge plate of nachos showed up to the party, and I was a paralyzed to choose which to tear into with more gusto. In the meantime, my civilized, Red passport-carrying dining partner was enjoying her mushroom soup (210 RUB) and, surprise, Caesar salad with freshly grilled chicken (345 RUB).
I vaguely remember her saying, well, positive words about her soup and salad. Honestly, though, I was lost like Hunter S. Thompson in Circus Circus in the ranch dressing sauce for my wings, a mountain of nachos, and Coors Light.
To wit, it was a transcendental escape for my unapologetically American soul at an unapologetic American diner. I could have been in Steve’s Diner in a Vermont as easily as Frendy’s on Ulitsa Pokrovka in Moscow – like Dorothy in Oz, there is no place like home, and Frendy’s is a juicy morsel of genuine Americana.
Next were entrees – and we immediately understood it would be next to impossible to have room for them. For me, a Cheddar Bacon Burger (455 RUB) with breaded onion rings and, for my dining date, a quartered Club Sandwich (395 RUB) with french fries.
The cheeseburger was a three-inch tall monster daring you to take the first bite. My only choice was to douse it in ketchup and ranch, squeeze the bun down into the huge chunk of meat, and tear off the first sloppy bite. Harkening back to the famous Buffet song that will be played at my wake one day – “Cheeseburger in Paradise, not too particular, not too precise….just a Cheeseburger in Paradise. “ Absolute sloppy Cheeseburger heaven, each and every bite.
My dining partner had 25% of her Club Sandwich and raved that it was so good that it was a shame to try to enjoy it when she was already satiated, so she stopped to instead take photos of me with my new kitten.
At this point, we requested take home boxes since there was so much food remaining, all of it, quite frankly, damn good. Our items were wrapped in foil, neatly packed into a bag, and returned to us. As a testament to the “hot damn” factor of our entire meal, my Saturday breakfast was, immediately upon getting out of bed, my remaining chicken wings and cheeseburger. I gladly dodged the scathing barrage of words from my lady to indulge in Frendy’s morning after.
In short, I do not know what else can be said. Our bill was 2845 RUB – a bargain for the quality of food, portion size, mouth-watering flavor, attentive service, and appealing atmosphere.
Without hesitation, I recommend Frendy’s if you are looking for an American diner experience. I am writing this review on Delta flight 30 somewhere over Greenland – and I will be going to Frendy’s later today upon arrival, no joke. I recommend that you do the same! |
|
|
|
|
| 669. | Shokoladnitsa
|
Turn the corner from the Chekovskaya metro station, walk one block and you've already arrived at the newest Shokoladnitsa cafe. Although it belongs to one of Moscow's biggest chains, the new establishment has a certain individuality. Tucked away on a Bolshaya Dmitrovka Street, with its entrance below street level, it escapes the main-street crowds and appears secluded and understated.
After descending the stairs, the first thing that meets your eyes is a large illuminated showcase of gorgeous cakes and desserts: jewel-like berries, sections of cheesecake, dainty filo parcels, and various chocolate morsels. To the right of this tempting counter display is the dining area--a room of exposed brick walls, wooden tables and big soft leather armchairs. The inhabitants of these chairs are diverse--work colleagues, close friends, and solitary diners--but they all share a relaxed unhurried manner that the furniture seems to invite.
Seeking the back room, my friend and I wandered through a corridor admiring an intriguing collection of coffee merchandise. Cups, plungers, parfait spoons and calabashes were displayed with prices attached.
Complete with its own counter and wait staff, the back room itself is designed to match the non-smoking section at the front, though it has a quieter, more intimate atmosphere. Though I am a non-smoker I felt very comfortable, as the room is very well ventilated. We took a table under a window, where one of the chairs 'grew' out of the wall--the wall was upholstered with leather to form the chair back, and a wide ledge with bolster cushions formed the seat.
A waitress brought the menu, and we browsed through the large variety of coffees, teas, drinks and snacks. I noticed that there were four different kinds of business lunch available, but as it was 2 p.m. I felt like something lighter.
We both decided to warm up with a glass of 'Glintvein' (mulled wine) (150Rb). This turned out to be a delicious concoction of Chilean red wine, sugar, cinnamon, citrus peel and cloves. The warm alcoholic glow had barely kicked in when the very prompt waitress brought my French mushroom soup with separate croutons. The soup was a cup of warm rich mushroom cream that I enjoyed at the time but regretted later. As I took care of the soup, my friend sipped away happily at her Cappuccino (80Rb).
In two minutes, we were already onto the main course--dessert. I was presented with Pancakes which were stuffed with honey and poppy seeds and accompanied by two sauces, chocolate and vanilla (120Rb). I enjoyed the combination of different sweets and the caviar-like texture of the seeds. My friend informed me that the dessert was invented in 1964 by the original Shokoladnitsa near Oktyabrskaya metro station. My tea was a white, Chinese jasmine-flavoured brew that complemented the sweets with its fresh, mild and not quite bitter taste.
My friend seemed equally absorbed in her selections. I sampled her European cheesecake with strawberries (160Rb), and was impressed by its smooth cheesy tang and feathery lightness offset with a juicy strawberry topping. She was also impressed with her drink - Japanese Sencha tea, which comes from Camellia buds (100Rb).
Shokoladnitsa's reasonably priced desserts and caffeinated brews already have a reputation as being among the best in Moscow. This location offers other benefits, in particular its quiet and comfortable atmosphere and fast service. Let's see what comes next. |
|
|
|
|
| 670. | Expeditsia
|
The Expeditsia restaurant which opened recently amid a good deal of publicity, is tucked away in an undisturbed part of the city, just off Solyanka.
The chef, Leon Ek, is of Night Flight fame, which has long boasted a tasty, inexpensive business lunch. But that's another restaurant-and another story.
Expeditsia is on the first floor of a pre revolutionary building. Once inside, you are struck by post-modern decor. As you make your way through the pine trees to your table, you absorb the subtle design and at the same time wonder why there is a helicopter at one end. Suddenly, you are aware that you are walking over a glass floor with a miniature river scene laid out below.
I ordered the Siberian Delicacy starter. My colleague chose the smoked Omul salad "Baikal". Which, we were informed, is a fresh water fish found only in Lake Baikal. It came very nicely presented with cedar oil but unimaginatively garnished with potato salad. My Siberian delicacy was a variety of small concoctions, burbot liver and damsons with aquavit, smoked fish and other salads. Again, well presented - but I was expecting the food to be as edgy as the decor and was a little disappointed.
They stock a reasonable selection of wines - Both new and old world. We settled on a bottle of Chilean Chardonay.
All of five tables were occupied the evening of our visit. Passable for 7pm on a Tuesday evening but the interior is so eye-catching that the lack of fellow diners doesn't distract you from the experience.
So, why the helicopter? The menu reflects the fare that can be hunted on a typical expedition to the Siberian wilderness, where you're either dropped off by the chopper to wage war on the wildlife, or you can hover overhead, picking off the game. , ducks, rabbits, wild horse etc. - are the critters likely to come into your cross hairs - and almost all are represented on the Expeditsia menu.
Pheasant and young wild horse followed. The pheasant was terrific. Very tender and cooked slightly pink. It rested on a lightly fried potato cake and was presented with cauliflower and celery purees with a ribbon of delicious pear, cognac sauce. It looked and tasted delightful.
I went for the roasted young horse from Yakutia. It was a bit of an attention-grabber served on a skewer and wooden board and looked as if it had been broiled rather than roasted as stated on the menu. The sauteed mushrooms in duck fat, were simple button mushrooms. At these prices I would have expected wild mushrooms at least. There was a celery, herb and cheese thing too. It was Okay, but not very impressive.
A lemon pistache mousse arrived for dessert. Pleasantly done but the pistache mousse had a little too much gelatine and was rubbery. The chocolate mousse was better. Nicely chilled and beautifully contrasted with hot parcels of baked apple wrapped in pastry.
The service was professional and attentive. And if your Russian is like mine (patchy), the staff will work hard to ensure things go smoothly.
The menu is well balanced and interesting, even though it leans heavily on raw fish, especially the starters. There are enough soups to justify a separate section to accommodate them and the main courses include various wild animals along side more familiar offerings such as steak and salmon. Creative desserts such as frozen cranberry with warm fudge and a homely Siberian berry pie are featured.
The bill was not cheap - around $130 US for two.
Overall, the decor upstaged the food but I understand that Leon the chef was off that night. Is Expeditsia just quirky, vying for attention in the over crowded Moscow restaurant scene? Probably, although its always going to be tough to make the food as appealing as the concept. Who can resist the lure of exploring Siberia and hunting in a helicopter? I recon they should sell those tours at reception - just a thought!
Robert Gollings is a
Consultant Chef in Moscow
robertgollings@hotmail.com |
|
|
|
|
| 671. | Oldich Dress & Drink
|
According to the PR blurb, Oldich's name is partly intended to evoke the ethos (although not, quite, the spelling) of London's Shoreditch, while carrying an air of retro chic. Adverts for staff have demanded a bilingual Russian-English work-force with a keen interest in classic fashion and quirky originality. And the "Dress and Drink" bit handles the two facets of a venue which is a vintage clothes store up top, and bar below. With an active program of live music and DJs, plus themed parties and literary evenings, it's pitching for the same crowd which currently sees the Krasny Oktyabr hub as its preferred point of pilgrimage - news that is likely to distress as many as it delights.
Setting prejudice aside, though, the bar/restaurant section has plenty going for it - once you get in. Arriving in the evening, when the upstairs shop is winding down, the bar possibly takes its 'hidden' vibe a bit too seriously - you'd be forgiven for missing it completely from the street, and even after gambling on plunging into the shop, there's scant evidence of what lies beneath. The management likes to reference Alice in Wonderland and its magical rabbit warrens; those of us who aren't acquainted with Mad Hatters may struggle to keep up.
Still, a willfully obscure location didn't dampen the popularity of the late, lamented Proekt OGI, and like that bunker venue, Oldich has character to burn. With heavy wooden tables and comfortable armchairs, it's a roaring open fire away from being the perfect place to gather for an intimate tete-a-tete over exclusive spirits and exotic cigars. Admittedly the sense of intimacy was heightened - uncomfortably so - by being the only diners on a dreary March Monday which seemed committed to denying any hope of spring returning, but even on a busier night it seems likely to be cozy rather than cramped. Plus, for a larger group, there's a separate room with a full-size dining table. There's serious attention to design detail as well: the crockery has been sourced from vintage markets in London, while the toilets feature retro-erotica wallpaper and voluptuous framed fabric over the pot - go pay a visit, and you'll see what I mean.
Given its Cool Britannia ambitions, it's only fair to note that the overall effect was reminiscent of one of my favorite restaurants in my former home town. OK, so it's not exactly fashionable Shoreditch, but the retro-fashion and underground feel carries well from the Thames Estuary to heart of Moscow. The menu, too, has more than a hint of the gastro-pub about it - and in the best sense of the word. Naturally, a few bar-room staples endure, with burgers and fish'n'chips taking their place despite protestations that the food here cannot be found elsewhere in Moscow. But there's also an honorable mention for a pleasing selection of Mediterranean finger food and some inventive desserts to complement them. The bruschetta with beetroot, artichoke and parmesan was a curious beast: at its base it could hardly have been more Russian, with creamy, mayo-slathered beets that might have come straight from the local stolovaya; the topping of parmesan and artichoke, meanwhile, was a taste of another world - almost literally - offering a fresh waft of Italian flavor. It's also one of relatively few wholly vegetarian options on the menu, although the "wine plate" of tempting tidbits works as a sharing dish as long as someone is willing to hoover up the Parma ham.
For mains we picked out the fish and chips (sufficiently meat-free to suffice) and the duck leg. The former was a genuinely decent attempt at a tricky Brit standard. The chips were actual chips, rather than fries, although they might have benefitted from slightly longer in the fryer; the fish came in a recognizable batter, and despite appearing as a handful of fishy goujon rather than the more traditional single large fillet, worked as well as any attempt at this dish I've seen outside of its homeland. The duck was well-cooked to the point where it slipped easily off the bone as the first gentle probing of a fork, but might have benefited from a more astringent partner than a serving of herb-spattered mash. A side portion of fruity sauce helped, but could have gone a bit further, perhaps.
The highlight, though, came with the dessert menu. Fig in a dark chocolate coating, studded with crunchy grains of sea-salt, was a perfect combination of sweet and savory: a simple idea which could easily become a classic. But the star turn was the pear tart with rosemary ice cream. Leaving aside the slight sensory confusion at confronting a pot of something which looked like it should be mint-choc-chip flavored and tasted entirely different, this was a triumph. The ice cream was a delight - fresh, unexpected and well-matched to the residual sweetness of the tart.
Another pleasant surprise was the bill - the whole thing, accompanied by a bottle of cider, came in at less than 3,000 rubles (albeit helped by a couple of freebies from the kitchen, including a flagon of iced tea). That seemed to give the lie to some of the complaints on Afisha.ru about high prices - generally speaking they seemed to be in line for this kind of market in Moscow. Admittedly, there's no sign of a cheap beer - it's all imported Brit brews at around 300 rubles a glass, rather than fizzy Baltika at 120 - and the clothes store proudly insists that its prices will be kept relatively high to distinguish "vintage" (a premium market) from second hand (with its slightly shabby connotations).
All in all, despite the hipsterish pretensions, Oldich has plenty going for it - and its downtown location makes it a great place for a pre-party gathering, whether you're planning to stay there all night or head on to another venue later. |
|
|
|
|
| 672. | Bar Port
|
Hard to find, difficult to forget!
Before getting too deep into this review, I want to clearly state and without qualification – go and dine out for lunch or dinner at Bar Port (BP). Do not delay – seriously. You will not be disappointed in the cuisine, pricing, or atmosphere. For expats, there is a very small window right now for restaurant customers in which, generally speaking, menu pricing has not caught up with the significant devaluation of the rouble during the past 6 months. Carpe diem – you will not regret the Italian inspired cuisine at BP.
“Hard to find, difficult to forget” is the motto that greets you when, well, you find BP. Upon arrival by car or metro, ignore the row of colorful restaurants that line the boulevard bombarding your optical nerve. BP is tucked into a nook at the short end of the monster, long building – walk along restaurant row towards the Garden Ring. Turn right at end of building, keep walking, look to your right, and you will see the BP sign, brightly stating it’s hard to find motto. Once found, though, BP is easy to find again.
As you can see on its website, BP has a sleek and classy interior with a balanced layout of bar and restaurant sitting areas. While it might seem trite, I was tickled to see that almost every seat at the bar has…drum roll please…an outlet to charge your electronic devices. From working on a laptop to keeping your phone or tablet satiated, the outlets were a thoughtful aspect. Not to worry – there are a large number of outlets in the restaurant area. This is clearly a sign the BP opened recently (December 2014) and is in tune with the finer things that its clientele will appreciate.
On most nights, BP gains a lively, edgier atmosphere as the evening progresses with either an in-house DJ or live music. BP is also located in somewhat of a mini business district - the after work drinks, dinner, and dancing scene heats up quickly. BP is also very active in social media, so take a look at BP’s Facebook page before going, as there may be a special event or menu items offered at that time that you will not want to miss.
I got the evening started with a mug of Guiness (400 RUR) to relax and a San Benedetta Water (200 RUR) to hydrate. A bit of a paradox, but BP is a bit paradoxical, so that was the culinary path that I took. To note, BP does have an extensive wine, beer, and liquor selection.
BP has a rich menu of small appetizers called unico that are similar to tapas, but not quite the same. Prices range from 100 RUR to 150 RUR per serving, with most priced less than 120 RUR. This is a key aspect of the “Gastronomic Bar” identity that BP is aiming to hit. Unicos - carbonara, seafood, duck, lamb, salmon, veal, mushrooms, and other vegetables.
I started with 3 unicos – duck ragu, carbonara, and beef with zucchini. The Duck Ragu (100 RUR) was underwhelming – too much dough taste that diluted the duck flavors. The Carbonara (100 RUR) is a surprising black color that delivers a powerful thick wave of mouth watering flavor. From my notes, the Beef with Zucchini (120 RUR) was excellent with tree exclamation points. Suffice to say, the small sized unicos delivered an out sized punch of flavor that greatly exceeded expectations.
To the opening wave of unicos, I added an appetizer of Tuna Tartar with Melons (520 RUR) that was, quite frankly, the best tuna tartar that I have had to date in Moscow. The tuna tartar was presented in a layer of sauce mixed with white melons that gave it a balance of savory flavor and sweet wetness that was divine. For the price, the portion size and high quality are compelling – I highly recommend this dish. There are a number of other enticing appetizers on the menu – and I venture that they all exceed expectations.
At this point in the meal, I was very impressed with BP, and I could not wait for my main entrée to arrive. It was difficult to choose one entree, but I had to limit myself to one, as I wanted to return to the unico menu, plus a couple desserts and coffee. The menu offers a mix of pastas, risottos, seafood, and meat dishes. My final choice was narrowed down to Tagliata Tuna Breaded with Cuttlefish Ink (690 RUR), Dorado al Cartoccio Baked in a Sleeve with Olives Tadzhaski, Cherry Tomatoes, Lemon and Herbs, with Fragrant Smoke (750 RUR), and Saltimbocca Veal alla Romana with Ham and Marsala Sauce (690 RUR).
I chose the saltimbocca, and – a week later – and I am still very happy with my decision. I had never tried this dish before, and I have had tuna and dorado previously. The saltimbocca at BP is my culinary high point for 2015, in part because I did not know what I was ordering (the surprise factor), but primarily because the dish was a knockout punch of pleasure to my taste buds. Tender veal, plus prosciutto, plus marsala sauce, plus the perfect preparation means that this is a dish that I will go out of my way to recommend to others and return to BP to have again. This was a very rare occasion where I forced myself to slow down and eat small bites so that I could enjoy every second that this dish was in front of me. Five stars, ten stars – whatever the ranking scale is, you must try this entrée if you are dining at BP!
After the saltimbocca, a small window opened before desert and coffee that simply had to be filled with an order of two more unico dishes. I chose unicos Marinara with Seafood (100 RUR) and Lamb, Red Onion, Eggplant (120 RUR). The marinara with seafood was very good with thin dough that did not dilute the seafood tastes. I could tell that the lamb unico used high quality lamb, but I would suggest a sauce or similar be developed since the overall taste was somewhat boring. If a light, savory sauce were added, the lamb would be “more tasty” and not be so much of the “only taste” in the dish.
Dessert and coffee are oftentimes the make or break moment of a dining experience for me. Great meal, bad dessert does not leave a great, literal, taste in one’s mouth. However, great meal, even better dessert is like hitting that aces over kings full house at the poker table.
BP has a diverse array of desserts that are similar to other restaurants, so I had resigned myself to the feeling that dessert would be a “check the box” endeavor of “good, try it if you would like a dessert”. I ordered Coffee Americano (170 RUR) and two desserts.
Much to my surprise, the least sexy dessert item – Cake with Pears (320 RUR) – was absolutely divine with a fluffy, tiramisu-like top layer, a second layer of juicy pear, and then a final layer of cake was the perfect combination. My fork sank hungrily through the cream layer, bit into the pear, and melded it all together with the cookie cake layer – to wit, this dessert was so good that it warranted instant recommendations to a number of friends in Moscow who work close to BP. Cheesecake with Passion Fruit Sauce (320 RUR) was also very good with a tangy sauce, but if you really need cheesecake, there is not a shortage of cheesecake choices in Moscow. However, the cake with pears that BP offers is found in only one place – Bar Port!
In closing, the total bill came to 3360 RUR before tip, an exceptional value for the level of quality, presentation, and atmosphere that BP offers. I will return to BP any time that I am in this area of Moscow, and I will continue to highly recommend BP as both a restaurant scene and a bar scene. |
|
|
|
|
| 673. | BQ Café
|
BQ Café
It was on a dreary and rainy October when BQ Café (BQ) appeared in my crosshairs for a dinner review. As always, I checked out BBQ’s website before heading out the door – metro Novokuznetskaya, and an area of Moscow that I do not know well. Thus, I fully expected to have a minor headache locating BQ once on the street.
Much to my surprise, however, BQ is extremely easy to find, even in the dark and cold rain. Novokuznestskaya has one exit – go up the escalator, exit, walk across the courtyard, and BQ is immediately in front of you about 50 m on the corner, behind the small statue and benches.
My dinner date had to cancel on me at the last minute. I called several friends with an offer to join, but the notice was either too short or “I’m not in Moscow right now”, so, that being said, I entered the BQ pit alone.
Upon entering, I was cheerfully greeted and told to proceed to the second floor. There is a bar on the first floor and second floor, as well as large table seating areas. And, on Friday, BQ is a busy place – to say the least, the tables were full, and, as such, I would recommend making a reservation prior to arriving.
To be honest and to save you time reading – BQ is fantastic, and I recommend it without reservation. The atmosphere and design are enchanting, the service excellent, the menu moderately priced, and the food five-star.
What differentiates BQ most of all, however, is a piece of a three-year recurring dream for me – being able to browse the menu, order, summon your server, and request your check from an iPad! Not your own iPad, but, yes, BBQ will give you one of their iPads loaded with the current menu offerings, in Russian and English. If you are familiar with an iPhone, iPod Touch, or iPad, you will understand immediately how to browse. If not, your waiter or waitress will be more than happy to assist.
The software suite is well-thought out and including an easy switch between Russian and English is a huge plus. You click the “+” on the item that you want to order, and it goes into what is essentially your shopping cart. After making your choices, you push the “my order” button to see your shopping cart. From that screen, you can easily delete, add, or modify (through a text box) your order, and then send it. After your order is sent, your server will confirm it with you.
After slinking through the ordering process with ease, it was time to indulge in what I ordered as it came down the pike.
The first salvo was unfiltered BBQ microbrew beer (190 RUB, 500ml) and a pina colada (350 RUB) to complement my chicken quesadilla (410 RUB). Even if I was dining alone, I was still going to drink for two! The beer was flavorful and cold, the pina colada made Jimmy Buffet proud, and the quesadilla hungrily melted in my mouth.
The second salvo was the Spanish assortment of meats (850 RUB) from the Tapas Menu, mushrooms enoki wrapped in bacon (320 RUB), and eurovareniki (220 RUB). The Spanish assortment includes a wide array of tastes – Cheese Manchego, Marcon Iberico, Choriozo Iberico, Bayonne Ham, Stuffed Pappers, Green Olives, Croutons, and Lomo Iberico – and is one of the several Tapas plates that are great starters for a group meal.
The enoki mushroom dish is one of the “mushroom season” dishes being offered currently and was a refreshingly different taste served with fresh asparagus. I believe that the eurovareniki are available all year, and I enthusiastically recommend them. Served in a crisp housing of thin dough, they explode – simply explode – with flavor once you take a bite. On my return trip – and it will likely be this Sunday evening for live NFL football – I will definitely order the eurovareniki.
At this point in the meal, I was happily satiated, but I knew I still had my main course on the grill. I pushed the button on my iPad to summon my server, and politely requested a 30 minute break before the next salvo, as well as another BBQ microbrew beer (190 RUB, 500ml). I then sat back, read up on some news, and simply indulged in the staged changing from a sit-down restaurant to a dance floor restaurant a la Tema Bar.
The main course of BQ pork ribs and french fries (490 RUB) arrived on time and piping hot. I, however, was still on the sidelines satiated, so I pushed the button to request that they package it for me to take home. I can say that the ribs were excellent the next day for lunch since the sauce had soaked into them overnight. However, there are many attractive main course offerings on the BQ menu, and I will try something else on my next visit.
The total for the evening was 3020 RUB and is a bit skewed on the high side since I purposefully chose the 850 RUB tapas and indulged in a pina colada for 350 RUB. As such, a person can visit BQ for a fine meal and drink or two at a moderate price and indulge in the pleasant atmosphere that makes a person want to return again and again.
Atmosphere and other points to take into account:
BQ attracts a younger, hip crowd, so the music and surroundings reflect this; however, everything is done with good taste. The big screen televisions on my floor were showing a mix of sporting events and music videos, neither of which dominated my meal. I was told, as well, that the music and lighting changes several times per day – morning from 0800 to 1200 has a peppier, wake me up like coffee vibe, 1200 to 1600 is a mix of music to the 1990s, 1600 to 1800 is happy hour with a laid back feel, 1800 to 2200 is edgier cocktail, and from 2200 to the wee hours of the morning showcases a DJ or live music.
BBQ has free Wi-Fi and outlets that are the most readily available and numerous of any restaurant or café that I have seen in Moscow to date. This is a huge plus because BQ is a superb location for either a working dinner or after dinner wind down.
Happy hour is from 1600 to 1800 with attractive drink specials and replays of sporting events from previous days.
BQ offers a Weekend Lunch that is a rotating special menu from the chef for 1111 RUB that is enough food, generally speaking, for two .
BQ celebrates holidays – US, EUR, and RUS. For instance, Halloween runs from 21 October until 31 October, with thematic decorations and menu/bar offerings.
Loyalty card: Free with first visit and offers a 5-10% earned credit forward, not an immediate discount. |
|
|
|
|
| 674. | Prostye Veschi
|
One of the best things about a trip to Kiev or St Petersburg is the range of super-quality mid-price cafes, bars & restaurants on offer – no wonder there howl about Moscow prices. Of course, Moscow has always had a few places not aimed at the expense-account gravy-trainers… but it's still been a sadly limited range, and they disappear with frightening frequency. The latest newcomer to the "demokratichny" sphere is Prostye Veshi (Simple Things), a smallish cafe-bistro across the road from Krasnopresnenskaya metro.
The retro-metro interiors come as no surprise, but it’s a formula that works well elsewhere - so why not? Bright white walls lit with downlighters, old b/w pictures on the walls, sturdy furniture evoking the post-war confidence of the 1950s. And although the prices aren't quite post-war, they're cheerfully old-fashioned too, and you’ll leave Prostye Veshi with even bigger smiles than when you arrived.
Price, though, isn't the only reason to be cheerful. The service is warm, friendly and personal, there are English-language menus obviously done by a native speaker (no howlers or blunders), and - somewhat amazingly - an extensive drinks menu that's entirely available. Parking nearby (or even directly outside) is a breeze, unfortunately - and since I held the car-keys for the evening, I went for a non-alcoholic cocktail, a mint frappe (a mere 80 Rbs). OK, hands up all those who thought - like me - that this was going to be a milkshakey concoction? In fact it's a rum-free mojito cocktail, identical in every way except without the hooch in it - and as an option for the cop-fearing quaffer it's not just good, it's excellent… and I had two. My Official Food-Taster for the evening was looking a little starboard, but a glass of Malaga Cruz port - for only 90 roubles - soon corrected the steering, but left us wondering if the prices weren’t perhaps listed in Serbian dinars.
On to the munchies, of which there’s a short but seasonal menu - six or seven options for salads, and the same kind of range for soups and other first courses, an identical number of main courses, and a goodish range of desserts. So, err, why so limited? The answer - according to Irina Khodzinskaya, who set the place up - is that the menu will change completely every two months, offering the best of each season's top picks. If you're reading this review any time in 2007, it won't be the late-2006 menu we tried! Portions are outstandingly generous, so we shared a green salad with chicken livers, weighing in at 210 roubles for a giant plateful. The mixed green and red leaves of lollo rosso, fennel and more partnered the scrumptious chicken perfectly - perhaps not everyone would appreciate the liver so lightly fried perhaps, but we tucked this away with great pleasure, only lamenting the absence of a squeeze of lemon, or perhaps a flash of balsamic vinegar to offset the broad flavour of the chicken livers? Autumn soups caught our fancy, so we had one each - and what a contrast they were! My favourite mistake in most restaurants is to be lured by exotic-sounding dishes which fail to deliver - but this time I hit pay-dirt, and the pumpkin soup (130 Rbs) was light, delicate, exuded freshness, and combined some satisfying hunks of pumpkin with some toasted pumpkin-seeds as a garnish. Unhappiness sadly ensued across the table over the rival chestnut soup (130 Rbs) - which seemed to be mainly hot cream and a dancing-troupe of pork pieces who went uncredited on the menu-listing. Chestnuts can be indigestible things at the best of times, but they were so little in evidence here that at least you need have no fears on that score. The home-made onion bread looks delicious, but had an over-chewy texture which clearly announced "sprinkled with water and microwaved." What a pity - the taste was excellent, the appearance good, and probably it had been very nice before going into the micro?
Fast-forward to the mains, and here we were more than happy. Ms Food-Taster's leg of lamb (at 390 Rbs the priciest item on the entire menu) was so tender it fell apart out of sheer desire to please the eager eater - happiness and bliss quickly returned, although further comment was mostly muted by appreciative lip-smacking noises. I fared just as happily with the trout with fennel & herbs, and in fact the roast fennel proved a highlight - I'd expect just a smidgeon of it tucked inside the trout, but it came as a garnish. The trout itself was perfectly prepared, moist, and fragrant from a lemon-herb marinade. Paradise, it seemed, was available on earth, and for cash prices… but some element of earthly woe was needed to prevent us just floating away in ecstasy, and this was provided in the form of the most stylishly impractical serving-style of 2006… serving the whole fish on a rimless wooden slat the same width as the fish. Open the thing to remove the bones - and fish-juices lap-out all over the table. Any angle of attack here will produce the same graceless results. I found myself longing for that tired cliche of old-fashioned dining habits - a normal plate? You can't take me anywhere, you see.
We finished-off sharing a largish dessert portion of fresh melon slices (80 Rbs) - Ms Taster would have preferred them ready-peeled, but the old hippy within me appreciated the absence of such supermarket-style convenience. Despite a single sad soup slip-up and a perverse plating pecadillo, the whole experience was succour for both body and soul, and for prices last seen in Moscow when the Metro used green-plastic tokens. This happy combo of bonhomie and wallet-friendliness attracts a crowd, and although it's exactly the kind of place you'd like to drop into when you can't be arsed to make supper at home, in fact you'll probably have to book a table if you plan coming after 8pm - the venue is small and they’re chronically short of tables. The kitchen closes at 11pm, but you can munch your dessert and raid the drinks-menu for bargains until midnight. They even take credit cards and allow you to smoke if you wish. Get rid of the Beatles tape guys, and it's a winning formula. |
|
|
|
|
| 675. | Goodman Steak House
|
Last week we set off to try out Goodman Steak House. As all meat-eating expats know, Moscow is truly in dire need of another quality venue to supply the goods for all of our steak needs (up until now, there was really only one place that came to mind...) I was admittedly a little skeptical about what to expect, given that so many steak houses before it were inevitably forced to do their own walk of shame out of town or were subjected to an empty existence without clientele, relying on only the crumbs thrown from stubborn kryshas. Nevertheless, in my opinion, Goodman will begin to finally fill the steak gap in Moscow's restaurant scene.
Goodman Steak House is set slightly back off Tverskaya (in between Tverskaya and Mayakovskaya metro stations), which allows for a quiet dining experience in what is otherwise a noisy part of the city. The main part of the restaurant is dimly lit with a sleek, modern design. We opted, however, to sit on the patio and enjoy a cool summer evening outside. The hostess let us know that if it got a bit too chilly on the patio, our waiter would be more than happy to bring us a little throw-blanket to keep warm - unless we wanted to move and sit inside, which could also be arranged. In addition to throw-blankets, Goodman also offers valet parking for those brave enough to purchase and drive cars in this city.
The menu was a breath of fresh air, as it is not one of those five-hundred page tomes found in so many other Moscow restaurants. After ordering beers (I took a 0.4L Fosters ($4), while my dining partner sampled a 0.3L Radeburger ($3)) we were brought fresh bread with garlic and herb butter and two tasty (and complimentary!) mini-bruschettas. There is a succinct selection of cold appetizers ranging from $7.50 to $39, including beef carpaccio, chicken liver pate and raw oysters (which would probably impress the socks off young dates *wink wink*). Next are salads and hot appetizers. I decided to go with the grilled mushroom salad with pumpkin seed dressing and prosciutto ($14), while my dining partner chose the tiger shrimp sauted in a tomato-based garlic and herb sauce.
We couldn't possibly have waited much more than five minutes before both of our appetizers were served. Even if all else had gone wrong (and it hadn't), Goodman sure gets good points for presentation. The salad turned out to be a delicate mix of spring greens with a dose of sauted mushrooms. The pumpkin seed dressing was unusual and palate-pleasing. Meanwhile, the tiger shrimp (which can also be ordered as a full entre) were tender, juicy and the sauce was wonderful. US out-of-towners might be slightly taken back by presentation, which includes the decapitated heads and buggy little eyes of each of the eight scrumptious shrimp.
Moving on to entrees, the menu offers rib eye, New York strip, filet mignon ($26-28) and burgers ($12.50-14.50). Those looking for something other than beef can choose from rack of lamb ($26), pork ribs ($22), braised lamb shank in rosemary ($19), or chicken schnitzel ($10.80). Each of these entrees is served with a sauce that comes separately, (mustard, pepper, mushroom and Goodman's specialty). Seafood lovers may choose from a selection of whitefish, a full shrimp entree and a salmon steak ($22-24). Side dishes ($4-10) include mashed potatoes with Roquefort cheese and fresh spinach served with a cream sauce and cheese - as well as grilled veggies and chanterelle mushrooms. It looks like vegetarians also have a viable option with the pasta plates ($12.50), which include both veggie linguini and mushroom linguini.
Although everything looked tempting, we were here to sample the steaks. My dining partner chose the rib eye with the mashed potatoes and Goodman sauce and I decided to go with the filet mignon and fresh spinach and the mushroom sauce. I like my steaks well done (which I am aware some may consider a crime against steak) so I was expecting to have to wait a bit longer for my entree. But we did not wait long at all, and not only were our entrees both served at the same time (*gasp*) but both of our orders were cooked *exactly* the way we had requested. The filet mignon - even at "well-done" - was juicy and melt-in-your-mouth tender, truly a treat. The mushroom sauce was full of flavor, but not too rich. The rib eye was equally tender and juicy, and the slightly tangy Goodman sauce really is an excellent choice for any steak on the menu. As for presentation, the steaks (and other meat dishes - we were spying on the surrounding tables as well) are served separately from the side dishes on their own plate. While the mashed potato side dish was very good, the spinach in cream sauce blew both of us away.
Unfortunately, I did not get to finish all of the spinach due to the only quirk in the evening. I had haphazardly placed my utensils in such a way on my plate as to inadvertently give the "I'm done" signal to the waiter who happened to be nearby. I was perplexed as he began collecting my plates without asking. When he began to walk away, I finally realized that my delicious but unfinished dinner was being taken away from me. "Wait!" I gasped. "I'm not done yet! Can I please have it back?" The waiter was at once so stunned and horrified that I swear he was frozen in place for a moment. "But" you're not finished? I'm - so sorry!!" I got my mignon back, but my spinach was lost forever.
Aside from what was obviously simply an awkward mistake, the service was attentive and very pleasant, adding to the overall enjoyable and unpretentious atmosphere. They have got it down right, and it would appear that a lot of agree. The patio was completely full by 9pm and there were several more groups inside when we left, opposed to a near-empty room when we entered at 7.
Dessert selections include apple pie with ice cream, New York cheesecake, Goodman's own cheesecake, fruit sorbet, ice cream and a fruit plate ($5-8). We decided to share the Goodman cheesecake and see how it might be different from a New York cheesecake. This selection turned out to be the most underwhelming event of the evening. We were served a rather large portion of cheesecake with a fresh strawberry sauce drizzled over it. The sauce was lovely, but the cake itself was missing a certain something taste-wise.
Those who enjoy a good wine will not get any tips from me, as I do not know my wines and prefer a nice beer or five. Goodman, however, offers both a full bar with well drinks ranging from $2.50-29 and a full wine menu with reds, whites and rosettes from France, Italy and Chili. Wine per the glass looks to range about $7-9, while by-the-bottle prices naturally range anywhere from $18 to $180 (or thereabouts).
Overall, we had a lovely evening. This is the perfect place to take a date, a business partner or out-of-town visitors. It's also the perfect place to get a good steak (and I would venture to say that Goodman most probably serves up a worthy burger). The restaurant's slogan may sound a little silly in English ("Goodman: a good steak for a good man"), but rest assured that even if you are a bad man, your steak will still be good. |
|
|
|
|
| 676. | Don Pedro
|
In a metropolis like Moscow where there are as many restaurants as there are Mercedes Brabus parked in front of them, it is unfortunate that I can only count a handful of eateries I would consider frequenting on a regular basis. I am pleased to say that the newly opened Don Pedro is one of them. Though this establishment has been deemed a cafe by the management, Don Pedro can give most of the "full fledged" restaurants in this town, a run for their money.
With a Spanish sounding name (the menu consists of French/Italian influenced dishes), an interior of "minimal, stylish gothic" (check out the futuristic wood burning fireplace!), the handsome golden sarong-shirted waiters, and the menu consisting of dishes with names such as Notes of a Hunter, your first impressions would likely be of yet another restaurant with an identity crisis, but everything seems to work in Don Pedro's favour.
Due to the fact that the perusal of the menu seemed to take an age, our waiter not only agreed to provide us with numerous "tasters" of dishes we wished to try, he then continued to describe each one with considerable knowledge! An establishment with proficient & friendly serving staff, quite a shock considering the usual scowls or blank stares I get from most waiters around this town.
My dining partner & I ended up ordering 4 salads, 2 cold & 3 hot starters, 2 soups, 2 entrees and 2 desserts....and let's not forget the mixed basket of fresh breads and the miniature individual butter dishes with silver domed covers that accompanied our meals.
If I was to write in detail about every dish we dined on, this would be far too long a review, so here were those we thought extremely worthy of mention: Of the 15 (!) dishes we tasted - and let me tell you that they were served in their full sizes not as amuse bouche as was expected - I was impressed with the concept of the cold starter "Sentimental journey", a modern take on the old standby at any Italian restaurant, prosciutto & melon - at Don Pedro these two partners in crime were paired with thin slices of passion fruit and lemon ice cream, which gave this dish a fresh, acidic, palette cleansing flavour. The Beef Tartare was of an excellent consistency, and wonderfully spicy - thank god that chef Edwardo shows this classic dish its due respect instead of just viewing it as "raw meat and egg", as many here in Moscow tend to do. My dining partner and I both raved about the aubergines with goat cheese/parmesan sauce and I loved the subtle flavours of the foie gras, bite size pieces served with raspberries - the most difficult thing in the world is to make things simple, and that is exactly what this dish was, simple presentation, wonderful taste.
Though Don Pedro has a lunch menu - 5 courses, 190 rbls - I would eat here almost everyday just for the soups!!!! The French Onion Soup, with it's smoky flavour and the slice of baguette with melted Gruyere was yet again simply but lovingly prepared and the Seafood Soup, with it's ochre colour, creamy texture and decorated with fried octopus slices and 1 oyster in the shell, was both tastefully prepared and had my dining partner raving for 10 minutes.
Of the 2 entrees we tried, "A Domani", the lamb chops which were cooked to pink perfection and served with a spinach and rice/wild rice mould, were tender and flavourful, and the duck was crispy, though could have been a little less tough. Lovely honey & berry sauce though. We barely had any room for dessert by this time, but we managed a few spoonfuls of the substantial Tiramisu - which was light, creamy and wonderful - & the Cheesecake, which we decided was more NY style than your normal, baked with -crust kind. A good choice for those who prefer A LOT of cream in their desserts.
My only qualm through the whole dining experience was the use of Russian Salad in 2 of the salads we ordered - not my idea of the French or Italian kitchen - and a lack of seasoning in a couple of the dishes. In any case it was an enjoyable experience.
The prices for all these substantial dishes range from 120 rbls - 200 rbls for salads, cold & hot starters, the Beefsteak being the most expensive meat entree at 750 rbls, and the Dorado Baked in Sea Salt being the most expensive fish entree at 550 rbls; we unfortunately didn't have the capacity to try the pasta or fish dishes, next time hopefully. The wine list consists of Chilean, French, Georgian wines and is surprisingly wallet friendly, instead of making you want to laugh hysterically when you peruse the prices. The house Sauvignon my dining partner tried was 750 rbls for the bottle - unfortunately there isn't a huge choice for wines per glass, but with the prices being so down to earth, that isn't a setback.
All in all, a very good dining experience in a casual, friendly environment. Don Pedro is well worth a visit - or two! |
|
|
|
|
| 677. | Ararat Cafe
|
Sevan Up
The revolving glass doors closed hermetically behind me. Moscow's sticky heat was left behind as I entered the chilled air of the glassed atrium. Modernist elevators whisked the world's Great and Good to secluded upper levels with silent unquestioning obedience, at the soft-spoken command "make it so". The first job would be to make it past the guards. However, the strange absence of a body-check, x-ray scanner, or series of impertinent questions from some juvenile Rambo only reinforced my initial suspicions that we had passed through a wormhole in the time-space continuum. I passed-by a carpet deep enough to have swallowed me alive, gently congratulating myself on evading such obvious traps, and allowed myself to be engulfed in a massive sofa until my colleagues arrived. Around me citizens of other realms closed deals on their mobiles in a Babylon of languages. How few of them knew what I knew - that this massive complex had an Achilles - heel, which could be penetrated by myself and my colleagues on a secret mission that dwarfed the scale of their billion-dollar deals. We were going to lunch.
For those of you in civilisations who have not yet mastered time travel, I should reveal that fifty of your Earth years ago, a former Cafe Ararat stood on the same site. Its clientele were soviet bohemian writers and intellectuals, for whom the promise of far-off Caucasian mountains enshrined the furthest hope of foreign exotica afforded by Stalin's People's Paradise. Photographs of the former Cafe can be seen on today's walls. It's immediately obvious that this is no rural trattoria with bentwood chairs and mama slaving in a steamy kitchen - this is the upscale end of Armenian cuisine. It's not, however, a dumbed-down or homogenised version; authenticity and quality are overseen by Master Chef Samvel Minasian. Prior to taking up his duties in Moscow, Minasian was supervising banquets for Guests of State in Armenia, as Head Chef to President Robert Kocharian. His remarkable achievement at Cafe Ararat is to maintain the simplicity implicit in Armenian cuisine - which relies on superb-quality ingredients, all flown-in specially - but present them in a style befitting a 5* international hotel. The atmosphere is laid-back and informal - the dress code is smart-casual, and cosy sofas encourage longer lounging.
The tastes and aromas of Caucasian cuisine are dominated in Moscow by Georgian food - with which expats fleeing an overdose of sour cream are already well familiar. Armenian chefs have the same broad palette of flavours and textures at their disposal, but the results are pleasingly different. There is a little "bite" in the flavouring, but it's aromatic rather than fiery. All is reliant on the freshest ingredients - the strong suits of the Armenian kitchen are imaginative purees and melanges of spiced vegetables, succulent fish, and speciality grills - all accompanied by fine local wines produced in a proudly independent tradition.
And so, to our meal. Three of us sat down to lunch and in Armenian tradition, we ordered a meze selection of appetisers to share. If the dishes are unfamiliar, English-speaking assistance is at hand, with knowledgeable and enthusiastic insight into any dish on the menu - from portion-size to pedigree, each dish is explained with the passion of an art-historian, and with a view to their suitability as dining combination. We took several - you can adjust your selection according to your appetite, budget and available time, but a traditional Armenian meal should have the table almost collapsing under the quantity and variety served. If you like it simple, Traditional Armenian Eggplant Salad ($6) is luscious and rich, and what I especially liked was that it wasn't swimming in an ocean of cheap oil - a background aroma of light virgin olive-oil complemented the aubergines. The Selection of Smoked Fish seemed no pocket-pleaser at $22, but the giant portion of salmon, crayfish, fresh crab, and sturgeon is a meal in itself, and all excellent. Aveluk is an Armenian speciality -“ a spinach roulade cross-cut into elegant slices ($5). The Armenian cheese platter ($5) is much more interesting than it sounds, the cheeses are nicely contrasted for bite and texture. With all of this, of course, you must have Armenian flat-bread, lavash. If you can't decide, or there aren't enough of you to order a full spread of full-sized portions, Ararat will be happy to put together an Appetiser Selection based on your preferences.
The danger - as usual in Caucasian food -“ is to enjoy the sumptuous appetiser selection so much that by the time the main courses arrive, you're already on the retreat. Yes, sadly we made that mistake too, but in fairness, these are appetisers you'd happily gorge on until they were physically taken away from you. Assuming you are more prudent in your hors deoeuvres-munching than we were, you might profitably continue to the magnificent mains. Armenia is a land of lakes and rivers - its famous Lake Sevan is even pictured in a huge mural on the restaurant-s walls. Lake Sevan produces several kinds of trout, and Ishkhan trout ($23) is excellent. If you're watching the calories or fat intake, this comes steamed with aromatic vegetables and herbs, and it truly melts in your mouth. Kyufta ($18) is one of those dishes which could only come from a society which sets no price on preparation time - prime beef is first whipped, and then lightly poached into a sort of spiced meat souffle, served with an omelette garnish. However as a rule Armenian men don't like their meat overly mucked-about with, and Traditional Armenian Shashlik ($24) is exactly what you'd hope it might be - a gigantic portion of toothsomely grilled cuts, your choice of chicken, lamb or pork.
At this point we were forced to withdraw - we slunk away defeated. Diners of greater girth and determination might have proceeded further to a promising selection of innovative desserts, all retailing at $8 and unknown numbers of calories.
An excellent convention in this restaurant is the option to order wines by the glass. And not only the vin de table, but many of the wines in the cellar. Armenia is, after all, a country in which wine-drinking is an everyday pleasure, without the strictures of a sommelier's beady eye. We had a luscious dry light red, which partnered my fish very comfortably despite all conventions to the contrary. If you wish to spend more, you can delve into their cellar of Armenian (and other) fine wines. Armenian table-water is ideal on the side.
The service is immaculate - charming, welcoming, eager to share the pleasure of Armenian food with new friends. Mind-changing and an onslaught of capricious questions about the menu were handled with bilingual aplomb. But whilst the service is five-star, the bill weighs-in mid-priced, as part of a conscious effort to encourage non-residents into the hotel's exclusive environs - there's no punchy overpricing here. A final tip - whether or not you make it to the desserts, skip your post-prandial coffee or liquer here, and instead beam-up to their Panorama Bar on the top floor, for a super rooftop view (outdoors in summer) of downtown Moscow and the Bolshoi Theatre. |
|
|
|
|
| 678. | Chito Grito
|
Hurray! The season of the shashleek is upon us! The weekend exodus of hordes of Muscovites, creating traffic jams as they head to and from their summer Dachas can mean only one thing: The smell of barbecued pork will pervade the country air for miles around! For those of us unfortunate enough to be stuck in the city, or for others who merely have an aversion to mosquitoes and grass in their food, the best way to satisfy the Shashleek urge is to head to one of Moscow's many Georgian restaurants. Last week I threw caution (and weeks of dieting!) to the wind, and opted for this urban version of the meaty feast.
As we all know, the wide variety of Georgian restaurants in Moscow ensures that both the quality of the food and the impact on the wallet (and the waistline!) can vary considerably, although it is generally possible to find good Georgian fare for very modest sums. With a prime location just off the Novy Arbat, it is no surprise that Chito Grito rates slightly higher than usual on the price scale, but did we get a juicier shashleek or a cheesier hachipuri for our money? Unlike the salad - the verdict was mixed.
Our hearts sank as we entered the restaurant and saw the all too familiar "table in a stable" type decor which seems to invariably define the Georgian dining experience. While I could ignore the cart wheel light-fittings and faux-rural wooden furniture, I chose to sit with my back to the stuffed yak's head which peered disconcertingly down onto the tables below. Call it "urban nonsense" if you will, but I like my dead animals stuffed with rice and mounted on a bed of greens, rather than suspended on the wall above me as I carve up their distant cousin for dinner. My companion and I eagerly diverted our attention from the decor to the (Russian language only) menu and were thankfully reassured by the wide choice of dishes on offer.
We selected some of the most traditional dishes in addition to a few of the house specials. Our stunningly beautiful Osetian waitress, elegantly dressed in traditional black gowns, was helpful and informative as she took our order, offering to start the preparation of our first courses while we continued to deliberate over our choice of mains. Much to our rumbling tummies delight, this system worked well, and our cold starters soon appeared with a steaming hachipuri hot on their tails.
The Green lobio with nuts (130Rbs) was tastier than many of the bland offerings I have tried in the past, but as usual, it was impossible to eat more than a few mouthfuls before tiring of the all too rich and thick consistency. The Chicken satsivi (190Rbs) on the other hand, was a delight to the taste buds: tender strips of chicken in a delicately spiced creamy sauce, chilled to perfection, providing a cool and refreshing dish perfectly suited to a warm summer evening. The Hachipuri (190Rbs) was served sizzling on a hot plate, and proved to be a fine example of this, one of the all-time favourites of Georgian cuisine. The Harcho soup (130Rbs) was nice albeit somewhat uninteresting; although the huge chunks of "melt in your mouth" beef which were to found hiding under the surface were a pleasant surprise indeed.
Being the self-confessed "cheese addict" that I am, the highlight of the dinner (and the ultimate halt of the calorie counting) came for me, in the form of the Fried sulugini "on a kesi" (120Rbs). Wow!! A "kesi" is a type of hot plate on which the strong and salty cheese is melted, then served bubbling and sizzling, ready to be scooped up with a spoon and eaten with such pleasure as is rarely afforded to cheese lovers in Russia! For those of you who have eaten a French raclette and wondered why you have to put up with the potatoes and sliced sausage, just to be able to have the melted cheese - then this one's for you! Believe me, it's sinfully good!!
Enough about the cheese! What about the meat? Well, we ordered a Pork shashleek (300Rbs) and a Lamb shashleek (450Rbs). The lamb was definitely the better of the two: It was tender and tasty, whereas the pork was overcooked and dry and tasted just like a chicken shashleek I had in Rostiks the other day! The portions were fair, and the sauces were tangy, though my favourite was the Adzhika sauce (70Rbs) which had more of a chilli kick to it. The fresh vegetable Georgian salad (250Rbs) we ordered to accompany the meat was an overpriced, disappointing bowl of chopped tomatoes and cucumbers - a boring array of vitamins, if ever I saw one! All in all - the main course did not live up to the promise of the starters.
We passed on desert (my guilty conscience suddenly got the better of me!) and went straight to coffees. As we sipped the rather good Turkish coffee (70Rbs) my companion and I decided that despite the substandard salad and pork (and of course, the aforementioned decor!), Chito Grito's good service, genuine Georgian recipes and reasonably sensible prices would leave most customers satisfied and coming back for more. And if it's a business lunch you're after, then I'm sure the 3 different options (140, 160 and 200Rbs) would be pretty hard to beat.
In any case: Forget the dacha! Forget the meat! Forget the diet!! I know where I'll be headed when I need my next fix of cheese. |
|
|
|
|
| 679. | Vanil
|
When I told Mr Polly that Expat.Ru had invited me to review Vanil, a place that a clueless prole like myself had never heard of before, his eyes lit up and he got very excited. He messaged all his friends to make them jealous. Turns out Vanil is, or at least was at one time, one of the top elitny eateries in town. After all, it was founded by some pretty well-known people: Fyodor Bondarchuk, Stepan Mikhailkov and none other than local restaurant legend Arkady Novikov. This initially gave me the impression that it must be packed with Moscow’s gilded youth and socialites, especially after noting that Vanil, a restaurant, enforces face control. But I soon came to understand that Vanil is more for an older, perhaps more refined crowd: Moscow’s gilded thirty-somethings.
Naturally my expectations were high. Very high. Especially after reading that an average dinner at Vanil without drinks will break you off about $140. I had also read conflicting comments about the menu, allegedly filled with indecipherable, purposely obscure selections. But in fact, once we had been seated at a table for two near a window facing Ostozhenka, I found that the menu was not as pretentious as I had been led to believe. I was only slightly disappointed when I understood that we would not be sitting at one of the popular tables facing an amazing view of Christ the Savior Cathedral. Instead we had a full-on view of the traffic jam outside and car-less metro commuters hurrying home from work. But never mind that - after all, who doesn’t enjoy watching the poor folk hobble by and stare wistfully in at you while you dine? Thanks to Vanil’s glistening ceiling-to-floor windows, this was a special treat we were granted the opportunity to enjoy several times that evening.
After perusing the menu for a bit, I was met with more disappointment upon learning that despite the fact that there are two scallop options listed on the menu, there were no scallops. So I was forced to rethink my plan. We decided on two cold appetizers the beef carpaccio with mushrooms (970Rbs) and tuna fillet with seaweed salad (750Rbs). Initially I had wanted to try the “warm scampi on rocket salad” (690Rbs) purely out of curiosity (what is rocket salad?), but we decided instead to share (note: “share”) another shrimp dish from the hot appetizers – scampi in tandoori sauce (450Rbs). I ordered a Kirin beer (180Rbs per 0.33L) and Mr Polly opted for a simple non-carbonated water.
Our cold appetizers were served quite soon after we ordered. Mr Polly’s water was poured into two wine glasses, even though he had only ordered water. My beer was nowhere to be seen. Oh well, I was hungry, so we began to check out the appetizers, which were both presented elegantly on Japanese-style plates. (One of the pages of Vanil’s menu offers a selection of what are allegedly Japanese delicacies, including sashimi and sushi rolls.) Vanil’s beef carpaccio is not cut in the traditional super-thin slices, but in small, thick rectangles. Not exactly what I was expecting, but this is probably the best thing I ate all evening there, and that is not meant to demean the carpaccio. It was excellent. Mr Polly’s tuna fillet was also quite good, but towards the end the large quantity of sea salt gracing the tuna and seaweed salad overwhelmed him.
Next came the scampi in tandoori sauce and Mr Polly’s order of cream of mushroom and celery soup. When the shrimp were served, I was again impressed by the detail devoted to presentation. I was also very impressed by the extremely large plate, considering that there were only four shrimp on it. Despite the accompanying iceberg lettuce salad, the actual food only covered about 1/3 of the plate. I began to feel like Steve Martin in LA Story when I noticed that Mr Polly’s soup was served in a gigantic bowl, also filled only about 1/3 high. I was getting a little nervous now since we had asked to share the shrimp, and there were only four. Plus, the waiter did not give Mr Polly silverware to partake in the shrimp, so there was clearly no chance that they had heard us say the word “share” and that he would be bringing the remaining four shrimp on a separate plate post-soup. I had not ordered soup because I thought it would be too much food. I was sorely mistaken. So I saved Mr Polly’s two shrimp for him after trying as hard as I could to relish the strange tandoori sauce drizzled over my half.
By the way, my beer had still not arrived at this point in time. I had to ask the waiter to please bring the beer I had ordered at least 30 minutes previously when he came to collect our dishes. He nodded obediently, but I got some look like “uh, yeah,” like it was my fault that he hadn’t brought it already.
We waited a little while before the entrees were served. Having been forced to forego the scallop plate, I had decided to try the “stake [sic] with vegetables Chinese style” (1250rbs). Mr Polly chose the veal breast with crunchy vegetables in an orange sauce (1100Rbs).
Now let me begin my diatribe by saying that I selected the Chinese-style “stake” because (a) I figured a place with such a high reputation would do a good job with “Chinese style” and because (b) having been misled by the description of “Chinese style,” I had envisioned said “stake” and the alleged vegetables would be served up as a stir-fry. Boy, was I ever wrong. Instead I got another gargantuan plate with a small, not-choice cut of steak surrounded on either side by saut?ed bits of probably two mushrooms cut up real small, and three snow peas cut up real small (the small slices make it look like there is actually more than three to the untrained eye). The worst of it was that the majority of these “vegetables” was freaking Chinese lettuce!!! First of all, Chinese lettuce is an affront to any kind of real lettuce. Plus, lettuce isn’t exactly what you imagine when you read the word “vegetables.” To top it off, this mutant, evil spawn of the lettuce devil and the “stake” had all been soaked in some sort of cheap-tasting teriyaki (read: Japanese, NOT Chinese) sauce that really did not do much to help either the hateful Chinese lettuce or the tough meat. To add insult to injury, a few drops of the offensive sauce literally leaped off of my fork, staining my sweater. So I guess the lesson here is that even in Moscow’s best, any “Asian-style” sauce will do and that bok choi’s rejected deformed cousin Chinese freakin lettuce can make any dish “Chinese style.” Oh, and neither of us received steak knives despite both of us ordering main courses with meat. You can imagine what a joy it was to saw away at my wretched “stake.”
Mr Polly’s veal was served in two pieces, one with meat, and one that was 90% bone and 10% impenetrable grizzle. The “crunchy vegetables” were not crunchy, and consisted of about 12 rectangular slices of some obscure vegetable measuring roughly two inches long and ?-inch wide. Maybe they were carrots, I’ll never know and at this point I’ve no desire to find out. They were, as you could probably guess, presented beautifully. But that had started to lose significance. Mr Polly liked the meat part of the veal, which he said was very tender, and the orange sauce it had been cooked in. He also noted that this was the first place he’d gone with me to review at which he’d actually been able to eat everything he was served. That should help you understand just how ‘minimalist’ the very pretty servings are.
We were then offered the dessert menu, which has a large selection of pretentiously named sweets at prices ranging from 250-950Rbs. At least the English dessert menu had enough mistakes to be amusing, with choices like “Ring with ice cream” and “chestnuts muss [supposed to be mousse].” After the stake disaster, I was in a foul mood and nothing except the berries appealed to me at all, but at this point I was in such a snit that I couldn’t even bear to not have to pay 950Rbs for what I assumed would end up being three to five berries on a giant plate. Thank you, I’ll pass. Mr Polly, however, cannot pass up anything halyava, so he tried a creative little number with vanilla ice cream topped with strawberry sorbet surrounded by three “French meringues” and fresh whipped cream topped with slices of strawberry and a sprig of mint. Not bad. Now I was even more pissy because hey, I should have ordered a freakin dessert. He also ordered a latte but I didn’t bother looking to see how much it costs. Probably a lot. I just finished nursing my puny, overpriced beer.
While I simmered away in my silent little hissy fit, Russian Mr Polly hastened to note that you have to pay for atmosphere and ambiance. OK – to their credit, Vanil has got the whole interior design thing down right. The restaurant is decked out predominantly – and tastefully- in what we can call Asian style. The color scheme is light, eliminating anything even slightly resembling Moscow’s heavy and ubiquitous “wood factor.” The lights are dimmed – but not too much, and the music is played at a perfect, unobtrusive volume. There are plenty of tables, many of which were filled with clients before we left, and despite their close proximity to one another, Vanil really manages to retain a sense of intimacy at each table. You don’t feel crowded, but you do feel cozy. This could be a great venue to chat someone up, for either business or pleasure.
That said, I’ve experienced my fair share of atmosphere and I ain’t payin no 950Rbs for no berries. It was with a sigh of relief that I stepped out onto the sidewalk, breathing in the cool autumn air and rejoining the masses of car-less commuters, without even one wistful glance back at Vanil’s fabulous floor-length windows. |
|
|
|
|
| 680. | La Bottega
|
Wine + Russians = does not compute. Of course it shouldn't be so, because Russians have loved the fruit of the vine for centuries, the Tsars themselves owned vineyards – although Mikhail Gorbachev dug them up and burnt them, and was rewarded with the Nobel Peace Prize for doing so. Russia even produces decent wines, although you have to look hard for them (the Krasnodar Krai is a rewarding place to begin your search – where Australian winemakers are now guiding the process). Yet despite all this, it's hard to think of the Hollywood movie where the Russian character's favourite tipple is an elegant Barolo. Wine is – in the final analysis - an alien pastime for many Russians – a fact to which La Bottega are neatly attuned. Even the blackboard of specials chalked-up outside is in English. Bottega is aimed very clearly at an expat clientele, plus those Muscovites who hanker after their summer holidays in Andalucia as they trudge through the snow. The staff are English-speaking and greet guests cheerfully in English. If you're an expat in Moscow, then this place was made for you. How well was it made? Well, let's see....
The location at White Square – outside Belorusskaya Circle Line Metro – is almost purpose-made for La Bottega's target market, scattered at the feet of the Towers of Mammon that loom above. Prosperous pin-suited yuppies go scampering homewards past La Bottega's doors – and on the evening we visited there seemed to be an exclusively foreign clientele filling out the place.
It's a warm, cheerful and unashamedly louche venue with lots of soft furnishings and red crushed-velvet curtains – they may be serious about wine, but the atmosphere is far from stern and severe. There's a mixture of 1970s retro with 1920s Berlin cabaret playing on the sound system – this is a barfly lounge where lounging is positively encouraged.
La Bottega is primarily a place you come to enjoy a glass of wine, so we eschewed the other drink options and went straight for the wine list. The wine list is extensive, and their website has the whole thing if you want to check it out. If you aren't in the mood or the visitor-numbers for a bottle, they have a good range of some of their most attractive wines available by the glass – and for prices that stand up very well by Moscow standards, with some even coming in under 300 RUB per glass. It's a pricing policy that keeps you there for a second or third glass, and encourages sampling several. I found the Allegrin Veneto Soave 2010 crisp and attractive – served ideally chilled, with some fruity notes to it, and priced to enjoy at only 370 RUB per glass. Emilia's preference for reds led her towards a Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2009, further up the price-scale at 470 RUB - but worth it. This is wine that stimulates the palate and prompts the appetite, and so we were quickly surveying the food menu.
As a Wine Bar, La Bottega's menu is extensively slanted towards smaller and lighter dishes you might have on the side with your glass of wine – and we enjoyed these appetiser dishes rather more than the main courses. If I went back to Bottega, next time I'd order two starters and skip the main course altogether – there's a panache and inventiveness among them that is somehow missing amid the worthy standards of the mains. Outstanding among the starters, and The Most Outrageously Delicious Thing I've Eaten in Months was the Mellow Figs Baked with Gorgonzola & Walnuts (450 RUB). My relentless curiosity often leads me into ordering the strangest stuff on the menu “just to try it” - but this time, for once, it paid off – the Odd Coupling of tangy fruit with attention-grabbing intense cheese is an unbeatable duo that I've never seen anywhere before – you have to try this! In fact it was so magnificently delicious that Emilia ate most of mine. And with good reason – she'd ordered a Mixture Of Green Leaves with Parma Ham Gran Riserva & Sheep's Ricotta (570 RUB)... but the green leaves were mostly chopped Chinese Leaves of clunky unloveliness, and they went unmunched. Surely they could get nicer salad leaves than this? My local supermarket sells them. The salad was crammed into a small deep bowl that made it hard to eat - and barely showed it in an attractive way. A better partner for a serious red wine was the Pear & Gorgonzola Quiche – a substantial slice for 320 RUB, and a meal in itself. It looked a little forlorn just plonked on a dish without even a lettuce-leaf for company, and might have benefited from more attractive presentation – but it delivers the goods on the fork.
The wind whistling in from the front door – which it does with some ferocity, straight into the seating area – was causing a little discomfort by now, and they'll need to fix this before winter draws in. We fortified ourselves with hot dishes and more wine, moving on to a Laughing Magpie Australian d'Arenburg 2007 – satisfyingly full and rounded, and worth the 450-RUB price-tag that accompanies it. The main courses which came along with it were less satisfying, however. I'd never seen a veal medallion the size or shape of those which appeared as Veal Medallions in Marsala Sauce (590 RUB). Full marks for getting the classic Marsala Sauce right, but the veal was very average. I had high hopes of Papardelle with Porcini and Cream Sauce if it was priced at 530 RUB – but it, too, was very ordinary. Scant on the porcini (in a bumper year for porcini), and not very creamy at all. We shared a quite decent panna cotta dessert for 290 RUB. The fare is bog-standard wine-bar stuff, in fact.
Overall, we felt that La Bottega would be good for sharing a glass of wine with friends, perhaps with a snack course on the side – the tables in the bar area are too small for eating main courses anyhow. There's a good selection of wines at prices that encourage you to linger. Unless you are unduly fond of fresh air, you might want to seat yourselves at the larger and more convenient tables which are further from the door. The staff is friendly and cheerful, but you have to keep on their case to make sure they bring what you actually ordered. The huge volume of passing trade from the adjacent office-blocks will probably keep La Bottega packed without them having to try harder than they do. |
|
|
|
|
| 681. | Sindbad
|
The Golden Road to Samarkand...
Last week I was discussing mid-price restaurants with the editor of The Expat Site - who said that it was hard to find many that were really reliable. So off I went to Sindbad, where I had to eat my words, and a very dodgy Caesar Salad (180 rbls). Actually as a chicken mayo salad, served on chopped lettuce and sprinkled with grated Sovietsky cheese it is a quite decent appetiser - it just isn't Caesar Salad. Luckily our other starter, Piratsky Salad, (120 rbls) was delicious - a super-fresh mix of green veg and tomatoes in a chilli dressing that kicks butt.
The whole summer menu is geared towards the outdoor setting. Sindbad's oriental garden is set within a high wall - authentically like an Uzbek caravanserai courtyard, and has semi-open dining snuggeries for privacy in smaller groups, as well as tables fully in the open. The star attraction is food hot off the charcoal grill, and with this Central Asian cuisine, decor, and (ehem) authentically diffident service, it's easy to feel transported to downtown Bukhara for a few hours. Especially as the area's crawling with cops, due to MID being around the corner...
I stuck with house specials and took Salmon off the grill as my main course - a bargain at 150 rbls, although the portion size isn't huge. Sveta was unlucky twice running, and after a dud Caesar salad, got Chicken Wings (150 rbls) as a main that managed to be greasy outside whilst dry inside, and no hint of spice or sauce with them either. The side-order of Persian KooKoo was disappointing - instead of the fluffy egg pudding came a greasy omelette.
Sveta was so miffed at this point, having nibbled at the wings and discarded them, that we ordered a portion of Tiger Prawns off the mangal, and these were tip-top at 450 rbls. Coinciding with the garden lighting and water-run coming on, the evening took an upward turn from here.
For dessert we got Grilled Banana (120 rbls) and Grilled Pineapple (150 rbls) with liquer, which they brought nicely presented on a large dish, and these were undoubtedly the highlights of the evening - crisp outside, succulent inside, without added unwanted sugar to spoil the natural taste.
With liberal draught Baltika beer, some wine, a cocktail and great espresso we paid 1900 rbls for two. Without the emergency prawn reinforcements and the kookoo, we could have dined for 1300 rbls. For outdoor summer eating it's a super location - their garden is a real treat compared to many Moscow al-fresco operations. Stick to the Uzbek house specials and the grilled options, avoid the half-arsed pseudo-Russian/Euro choices and it's mid-price outdoor dining you'd go back to again. |
|
|
|
|
| 682. | Coffeemania
|
Coffeemania at Trubnaya
I can't make risotto. The most acceptable of my failures come out like a sorely-unspiced pilaf – the more disastrous ones are more like an asian congee rice porridge. But since I really like risotto I've been driven to experiment at home with different recipes and various allegedly “no-fail” authentic Italian risotto rice brands... until now. For only 550 RUR my risotto fixation can be swiftly and sated with as perfectly-prepared a dish as you'd find in Milan or Florence – without going beyond Trubnaya metro. There will be some who see 550 RUR as very expensive for a dish of rice – for myself, I see it as a huge saving on the airfare to Rome.
I mention all this apropos of Coffeemania being essentially a smartly informal place to eat – that incidentally happens to serve great coffee too. Those who already know their “original” cafe on Bolshaya Nikitskaya (adjacent to the Moscow Conservatoire) will know the fun-style pseudo-industrial interior (exposed pipework and metal-grille decor) – but the new branch at Trubnaya offers an entirely new ambience. The funkiest of Frank Lloyd-Wright's interior designs have been raided mercilessly to create a warm and relaxed feel of natural mid-brown woods (cedar, pearwood, and others) with recessed lighting that recalls some kind of cocktail lounge in an early Pink Panther movie. The shopping-mall design elements of the Plaza outside (apparently a rejected design for Khanty-Mansiysk airport Duty-Free?) remain firmly where they belong – outside.
Ever-loyal to its bistro-style roots, Coffeemania is quite happy to serve just drinks or short-orders – and the bar menu would be very welcome for anyone dropping in after the adjacent shops in the Plaza, with a great selection of long and short drinks, wines, spirits and other drinks. With my dining companion delayed in New Year traffic, I plunged straight into the menu's recommended white wine for my risotto - Garafol Serra Fiores (570 RUR), and my starter course - Salad Bakinsky (ie in a “Baku” style) - 510 RUR - arrived alongside my friend. Both of these were close shaves - my friend's timing, and the slices of smoked halibut that made up the centrepiece of a nobly low-calorie salad for which I gained brownie points with her. The rest of my salad was composed of juicy tomatoes, dill, and sweet red onion flakes - a nice basket of sesame white bread and rich aromatic borodinsky came automatically. Meanwhile on the other side of the table, a delicious cider cocktail appeared - a Hotel Ritz Hemingway special at just 370 RUR, surely the best bargain in the drinks menu!
I was pleased to see Coffeemania devoting the kind of detailed attention to risotto that it deserves - the waitress kindly advising me that mine was now at the exact moment of readiness for the table. Friendship is a fine thing, but risotto waits for no man and I urged it onwards in spite of all societal prejudice in favour of waiting for one's friends. No mistake either, because Moscow's most sumptuous Mushroom Risotto (570 RUR) came to the table accompanied by a generously-unrestricted bowl of freshly-grated parmesan. Not even the arrival of Crab Jumbo (530 RUR) opposite could distract me from savouring every last mouthful of the risotto, although I generously agreed to indulge in conversation once it was sadly gone. The soft-shelled crab itself was a wonderful thing, served in a light tempura batter on cos lettuce leaves... from my viewpoint as an observer the entire thing was a picture of deliciousness, although the actual diner-behind-the-plate claimed she'd have preferred her whole cos-leaves sliced for ease of consumption. Such are the dilemmas facing the modern aesthete at her supper. With my risotto craving duly discharged, and running one dish behind my companion (a nicety with which the table staff coped seamlessly) I was able to relax and admire the interior decorations whilst my colleague tucked eagerly into a favourite dish from the Coffeemania “old place” - Corleone, a classic escalope of veal served with hand-made pasta and field mushrooms, and worth all of the satisfied drooling sounds at 730 RUR.
We skipped desserts in favour of coffee and tea - but you may not feel so pressured, and there is Coffeemania's legendary selection of in-house patisserie to edge you towards temptation so extremely easily.
Freed of dining duties temporarily, I surveyed the dining-room in search of the answer to my question - who is Coffeemania for? To my western eyes it's considerably more relaxed and informal than many Russians would accept as a “restaurant” - but many of the diners there were clearly on romantic dates, whilst the larger (and, err clumsier-looking) group tables went unoccupied the entire time. Have credit-crunched couples moved their eating expectations down a price-notch - or have Russians finally begun to abandon pompous pretention as an essential to their dining? Whichever is the case, the Coffeemania formula is clearly not only surviving, but moving ever onwards and upwards - and taking a loyal public along with it.
So what's good here? Almost everything, really - a standard of cuisine (achieved with a newly-imported kitchen set-up) that knocks spots off places costing double the price, an informality of style and ambience that belies cheerful smiley efficiency at the table; a range of menu items that covers everything from European bistro favourites, Italian trattoria classics and a delicate range of asian dishes; genuinely separate smoking and non-smoking areas; and underlying all of this, a quality-driven at which the client's happy mood and comfort are in the driving seat. And the downsides? Conservative diners in search of starched whites and silverware won't find any of that here... and the price of wine by the glass doesn't encourage refills. However, the Hemingway cocktails are priced to comfort the credit-crunched at a feel-very-good-indeed eaterie that quickly feels like your favourite place in town. |
|
|
|
|
| 683. | Kolbasoff
|
When I was asked to do a review for Kolbasoff, mostly I heard one thing: "beer" in the form of a question. I said "Oh, yes!" Then I went online to find out more about what I would be having to eat that night, which was, as the restaurant's name not-so-subtly implies, sausages. Now - I am an omnivore at heart, and I eat meat, but to tell you the truth, the whole idea of sausages, especially of what potentially goes into them, sort of scares me a little. But then, at the bottom of the restaurant's website, I was met with a challenge I could not refuse. Kolbasoff claims that their sausages are "real manly food" and that in the future men are going to start craving more and more sausages. They hasten to add, however, that women may also eat sausages as long as there's beer to be had. Man's food, you say? Food for men? Well, I'll just see about that!
Kolbasoff has two main halls. We were seated in the larger hall, which features a large bar near the entrance and segues into several sections of booths and other tables by the window. The lights were dimmed (drinking beer in brightly lighted places is never a good idea) and the far wall features a collection of various beer bottles and mugs from around the world. The design looks new and spotless, which made me a little suspicious - I'm more accustomed to much darker, dustier and not-so-spotless watering holes. But Kolbasoff is no mere watering hole! It is a restaurant, with food even! And so we set about checking out the menu. I was presented with the English version of the menu, while Mr. Polly requested the Russian original.
Upon opening the English menu, I saw that I was invited to order the "firm supper" and try "any firm sausage our restaurant." Firm sausage you say? Of course this meant firmenny, or the restaurant's own trademark delicacies, but it's always nice to see that there's plenty of firm sausage on the menu. I was bombarded with options and had no idea at all what to order! Should I try the "crust small triangle" or the "fried in crackers pork ears" for a hot appetizer? Or might I be better off with "the fried cheese tubules from the test"? Should I choose the "creamy cream soup" or the "wild mushrooms with creamy"? The choices were endless and baffling, so I cheated and looked at the Russian menu.
We decided to try the Kolbasoff salad, which is made of - you guessed it - sausages! And potatoes, pickles, beans, onions and radishes. We also ordered the meat carpaccio, which somehow appeared on our table as the salmon carpaccio, and the "beer shrimp" allegedly prepared in a "spicy mash." For entrees, we decided to try some nice firm sausage, namely Kolbasoff sausage platters #1 and #2. Number one is made with herbs and spices, while number was described as hot and spicy. It was my job to try the spicy dish since we all know that Russians can't really handle (or judge) true spicy hotitude.
We were served our first two beer selections (Paulaner Oktoberfest and Spaten Oktoberfest) with the carpaccio, shrimp and Kolbasoff salad all at once. As we somehow got salmon instead of meat (I guess myasnoye can sort of sound like lososevoye), I gave it to Mr. Polly since I don't dig fish too much. I did try it though. It was pretty salmony, and if you're into salmon you'd probably like it. Mr. Polly immediately began ripping the bug-eyed heads from several beer shrimp while I examined the Kolbasoff salad. All I could think of was "there is a bunch of sausage on this plate in the guise of a salad, and after that, they're going to give me "more sausage!"I wasn't sure I could eat all that sausage. I began to doubt myself. But then I remembered -men should not be able to have a food that is all their own! I must prove that women can also eat sausage! So I sucked it up and tried the salad.
Mind you, the Kolbasoff salad - at least on the English menu - is described as "piquant." This is a good salad to order for your Russian friends who think that black pepper is hot so that you can have a good laugh, because - actually "this salad is pretty hot' n' spicy!" It doesn't taste half bad, either. I enjoyed eating it. Slowly. Yet as someone who truly appreciates a nice piece of lettuce, I must say I think it's almost a sin to call this dish a "salad." I might even humbly suggest that Kolbasoff could stand to add some more lettuce-y items to their salad menu. Anyway, I enjoyed giving some to Mr. Polly after warning him "be careful, it's spicy!" He tried some and said "no it's not!" About three seconds passed before he was grasping for his beer. "Nevermind! It's spicy!" Since the menu claims the beer shrimp are cooked in a spicy mash, I wanted to know if they, too, were truly spicy. There was no mash, spicy or otherwise, visible on Mr. Polly's plate of beer shrimp, and while he said they were not spicy (which means not at all, he has a very low "spice" threshold), they had apparently been prepared in some sort of tasty sauce and he liked them a lot.
We ordered two more small beers while we waited for the entrees to arrive: Duckstein amber and Hofbroeu. I was unable to discern any difference in beer taste for a while after the salad, so suffice it to say that the Hofbroeu was Mr. Polly's favorite beer of the evening, while Duckstein was his least favorite. I will take a moment to note that Kolbasoff's beer prices range from 60-320Rbs (with options of 0.33L, 0.5L and 1L) with an average 0.5 beer price of 150Rbs. Their draught selection includes a variety of German, Czech and Belgian beers, and I must say I was disappointed to see that the only bottled beers were Corona (*ahem*) and some pretend beer with no alcohol. Why oh why, when there are so many different yummy bottled beers to be had?
Our entrees arrived as promised - two large sausages each with what I presume was sauerkraut and mashed potatoes, a couple of gherkins and a marinated tomato. I say that I presume it was sauerkraut only because I have never eaten sauerkraut before, nor did I eat much of it that night. While the Kolbasoff #2 was definitely not as "firm" as the menu had led me to believe, it was obviously very fresh and handmade. Although it was not fire-in-your-mouth-hot, it was indeed spicy and tasty. Mr. Polly was extremely pleased with his choice of Kolbasoff #1, and although he has never been to Oktoberfest or Germany, he assured me that it was the real thing: authentic German sausage. He also liked the sauerkraut and enjoyed referring to what the sausages resembled. We washed the sausages down with a third round of 0.33s - Krombacher and Altitude 6 (unfiltered). We finished the evening by sharing a delicious piece of almond cake, which thankfully had no sausage in it.
The place was pretty full at eight o'clock, mostly with men gettin' their sausage on. One table nearby was served with a beautiful plate of fresh crayfish. We also noticed that you apparently may bring small dogs with you, as one young lady did that evening. While I am not an expert and tastes do vary, I understand that the following information is very important for some expat men: I would say that roughly half of the waitresses were "cute" and at least one of the cute ones was "stacked."
The manager dropped by our table to let us know that Kolbasoff will be having one more round of Oktoberfest celebrations, complete with contests and prizes, on Saturday, October 2nd. The previous festivities on September 18th were a big hit and included many a beer-related contest; including breaking open a wooden keg of beer. It's going to be packed on October 2nd, so be sure to reserve a spot!
After some reflection, I must admit that although everything we ordered at Kolbasoff was very good and presented nicely, sausages just might actually be man's food after all. I cannot speak for all women; I can only speak for myself when I say, men, you may have your sausage. I will stick with beer. |
|
|
|
|
| 684. | Khodzha Nasreddin in Khiva
|
A Gourmet Adventure
If you are ever overwhelmed by an urge to escape Moscow and visit an exotic land to enjoy bountiful quantities of delicious food and copious amounts of entertainment, but you only have one evening to spare and $50 in your pocket, then sidestep the customs and baggage claim queues and retreat to the restaurant, Khodja Nasreddin in Khiva. One step inside the door and you enter the enchanting world of Uzbekistan and the ancient city of Khiva.
After being greeted warmly by the restaurant staff in traditional Uzbekistan dress my fiancee and I were escorted to our table across a small "bridge" where you get a panoramic view across the roof tops of the city. This replica is quite remarkable and includes mosques, minarets, portals and cupolas. The restaurant is an intriguing clutter of ornaments and artefacts, mats, tea rooms and both open and intimate dining areas. Conventional tables exist but it is worth trying the more interesting low tables for the more comfortable and traditional experience.
The restaurant has a second floor which, we were told by the restaurant's manager, is a replica of Muhamad Rakhim Khan's harem which was part of his palace. It is worth noting the unique photos of this business and military man on the walls of the entrance to the second floor dining area. We visited the restaurant late Saturday afternoon and this floor was awash with children being thoroughly entertained by a variety of clowns. The manager informed us that the shutters of this floor are always closed and the clocks remain stopped to give the impression of the non-existence of time, as it was during the Rakhim Khan's era.
Returning to our table we removed our shoes and immersed ourselves in the array of cushions and pillows and lay dreaming of what life must have been like in Uzbekistan at the time of the legendary figure Khodja Nasreddin, as we prepared to select our meal.
The menu makes interesting reading and the numerous intriguing dishes offering almost every part of an animal's anatomy are laced with stories and names of famous merchants, travellers and warriors who ate these dishes many years ago. The shashlik with sheep's testicles will have the men crossing their legs when they order.
We both chose the salmon Termez Style ($12) with amber caviar for a cold starter and had the salmon Muynaksky Style ($18) with roasted spinach, and veal Koreyka ($26) for main dishes. We ordered bread Cake of Khiva ($3) which was freshly baked in the onsite Uzbekistan bakery and a side dish of pickled vegetables Kyzyl-Kumsky ($10).
This was all washed down with a glass of young Uzbek red wine ($13) a glass of Le Sommelier ($8) and raspberry fruit brandy ($3).
I have to admit that by this stage of the proceedings we were a little overextended, gastronomically, to attempt desert but a quick glance at the menu revealed an extensive and extremely tempting selection ($6-17).
In addition to the memorable meal the out-of-town experience to be had at Khodja Nasreddin in Khiva is further enhanced by entrancing belly dancing performances each evening and special one hour shows of dance, musicals and opera each Friday and Saturday nights commencing at around 22:00, all complimentary with your meal. |
|
|
|
|
| 685. | Noev Kocheg (Noah's Ark)
|
Before we begin the review itself, we would like to warn our readers about the disadvantageously placed decorative metal bars pyramiding up around the bottoms of trees along the sidewalk outside Noah's Ark. They are stealth-ninja metal bars that you may not see at first glance, but be careful, they may jump up out of nowhere, causing you to trip, or perhaps lose your balance, and crash to the ground. Mind you, these bars do not differentiate between people who are sober and those who have enjoyed a libation or two. If you are unable to avoid the evil metal bars and consequently end up in a pool of your own blood, never fear, the doormen have seen the metal bars attack many times and will kindly help you back up.
Once we were inside and had brushed ourselves off, the manager gave us a tour of the restaurant and a brief lesson in Armenian history. He began by showing us "the gold room," which is on the bottom floor. It is much smaller and more intimate than the main room upstairs, and features plush half-circle sofas instead of your typical wooden furniture. (If you want to impress someone, make reservations for this room.)
The owners of the restaurant have devoted a great deal of attention to the furnishings, decorations and details on both floors, made of metal, wood, fabrics, canvas and stone, nearly all imported from Armenia (although the chairs were from Italy). Even the fish pond at the entrance is shaped as a miniature Lake Sevan, which is apparently Armenia's most beloved body of water.
The main guest room is quite different from the gold room - it is more dimly lit, there are more people and there is just much more going on in general. If you have a larger group or a special occasion, you can reserve a special curtained area for more privacy. An open grill is set up directly across from the main arc into the second-floor dining area, so that you may verify the freshness of your shashlik, or so we were told. We were seated and given a complimentary warm drink of rosehip tea with honey and cinnamon. There were quite a few large parties, but none of them were overly loud, and the spaciousness of the restaurant meant that the place didn't feel hectic or crowded.
After confirming that we would indeed prefer to make our own choices as to what we would be ingesting that evening, we were given menus. They do have menus in English, but if you read Russian, we recommend getting the Russian menu since the English menu is more confounding than it is amusing. (Not so for the dessert menu, but more about that later.) The menu is long, one of those notorious 'tomes' that it will take at least a good 15 minutes to browse through before you've narrowed it down to 5 pages. If you are planning ahead, you might consider checking the menu online at www.noevkovcheg.ru, where you can find a list (and some pictures) of the menu selections.
After much page turning and mulling about, we decided to try Armenian beer (Kilikia, Kotayka, and Erebuni, 110 Rbs). Surok wanted to try the most unpronounceable item on the menu, the tzhvzhik, or veal liver (480 Rbs). Unfortunately for her, they were out of tzhvzhik that night. Instead she opted for kabachki s tarkhunom, or squash rolled with minced beef and walnuts (200 Rbs) and chose the sturgeon in a clay pot (580 Rbs) over the assortment of 5 different types of shashlik (720 Rbs - pork, lamb, veal, chicken and veal liver). I decided to try their spinach salad with walnuts (250 Rbs), the burum v lavashe (290 Rbs) and the tolma (350 Rbs).
The spinach salad was not a spinach salad as Americans know it - it was spinach cooked in matsun sauce (sour milk) with finely grated walnut, served cold. The flavor was very mild but fresh. It was quite a contrast in taste when compared with Surok's squash; to say that she was highly impressed with it would be an understatement. I also tried a bite, and was surprised to find something akin to tex-mex spices used in all the right ways in this surprising southern dish. (It almost made my spinach seem kind of boring) Surok noted that the matsun-tarkhun sauce really made the dish - the combination of sweet meat, strong herbs and the sour milk was just perfect.
The burum v lavashe came next. This dish is basically bits of beef, mushrooms, spinach and cheese rolled up in flat lavash bread. It seemed like a good idea. That is not to say that it was a bad idea - all of the ingredients were nice enough. But in the end, we both decided that none of the ingredients really did anything for the other ingredients. It was good, it was filling, but it didn't knock our noski off.
Next came the main dishes. Surok's sturgeon came in the pot as promised. The clay pot was sealed shut with lavash, an interesting touch that initially made it a bit of a challenge to actually get to the food. Inside was a hearty stew of fresh sturgeon, potatoes and mushrooms in a sour cream and sweet pepper sauce. It was a tasty, warm and filling dish, great for the wintertime. But again, the ingredients didn't complement each other 100%, and Surok noted she could have done without the mushrooms.
The tolma, or minced beef mixed with rice and wrapped in grape leaves (also called dolma by other nationalities), were a very pleasant surprise. I had been of the impression that there wasn't really much you could do for a tolma. True enough, this is fairly simple fare, but Noah's Ark really, really knows their tolma. I have never had finer tolma. The leaves were tender, not chewy or tough, and the meat inside was perfectly juicy without making anything soggy. The texture was just right, and the simple matsun sauce was the perfect complement.
We were then offered the dessert menu, in English, and proceeded to enjoy ourselves immensely. All of the ice cream is proudly noted as Baskin Robbins brand. You can opt for a "splendid potion" of various flavors, or fried Baskin Robbins ice cream, complete with a "testy crispy crust" (210 Rbs). There is also honey fondant, featuring a "light honey mouse" (220 Rbs). The muravejnik, or honey cake, was described as "a dessert made from short" (110 Rbs). Other noteworthy items include Italian "Philadelphia" cheese and Eral Gpey tea. The dessert menu was very sweet indeed.
Surok made her selections, which I promised to try, but I was too stuffed to order anything else after the tolma. Surok made the very wise decision to try the walnut preserves and quince preserves with some black tea. Anyone who is not allergic is urged to at least try the walnut preserves, which were not too sweet and not too nutty but actually just really a surprisingly nice, and rather unusual, treat. It is served with four young walnuts that don't budge if you poke your spoon at them, but are actually very chewy. Due to certain familial circumstances, Surok is a bit of an expert on quince preserves. While she had expected this to be something more like jam, and it was actually preserved fruit, she found it quite nice. She also tried one of the cognacs on the menu, the 6-year "Ani" (200 Rbs / 0.05L), which she found to be a fairly good, basic Armenian cognac, although she does tend to find Armenian cognacs a little sweet for her taste.
We found the service to be excellent over the course of the evening. There was no hovering whatsoever, which quite frankly I had been afraid of after the very informative "tour". The timing was right on, and our waiter was able to answer all of our questions. The manager kindly presented us both with a copy of Noah's Ark's own CD music mix, which is called something like "The Armenian wind instrument [duduk] in the music of world-renowned artists."
In conclusion, we enjoyed the evening and the dinner at Noah's Ark. Despite some slight culinary inconsistencies, this place gets a solid recommendation for friendly atmosphere, freedom from ear splitting music, and informative wait staff. We left content and well fed, albeit perhaps slightly more bruised from our very dashing entrance. |
|
|
|
|
| 686. | Clumba Club
|
The May holidays had just begun on May 1st, and it was time to visit Novinsky Passazh and Clumba Club for dinner. In the days before, I had taken the time to review Clumba Club’s website – very sleek site with relevant information. I have had dinner several times at the Mamina Pasta on the atrium floor as well, but never since Clumba Club had opened, so I was intrigued.
Upon arriving, my dinner date and I found the lay out and ambience appealing. Clumba Club is a very “open” restaurant with a smoking section that is completely separate from the atrium dining area. As a diner, the atrium location gives you an immediate sense of relaxed calm, even if the shopping center itself were to be bustling with people. The tables are big, the seating is deep and comfortable, open-space acoustics are conducive to conversation, and Wi-Fi readily available.
On that note, I would not say that Clumba Club itself is boring, but it was absolutely dead on the evening we were there, as we were, literally, the only diners. I attribute this mainly to it being May 1st, but maybe Clumba Club is generally slow.
In the wake of our evening there, and quite frankly, I have found it difficult to find inspiration to pen this review. Not “writer’s block” – instead, I have just found it exceptionally hard to put a finger on “what” Clumba Club is or is trying to be.
To wit, there is a huge assortment of items to choose from on the menu. Clumba Club covers surf, turf, and damn near everything else under the sun. While this is good – at least as long as the selections do in fact deliver – it does little to define a restaurant. An Italian place has pasta, a Japanese place has sushi, an American diner has burgers – and it’s almost like Clumba Club is trying to be all of these at one time.
The food, without qualification, was good. Expectations were met, and even exceeded.
We started with two appetizers – a parmesan ham platter (220 RUB) and Tashkent tomatoes stuffed with suluguni cheese (410 RUB). Appetizers came quickly, almost with our fresh strawberry (175 RUB, .5L) and melon (275 RUB, .5L) drinks and were a great start to the meal.
I had planned on ordering a coterie of oysters since Clumba Club is, or at least is becoming, known for its oyster selection. However, and no fault of Clumba Club’s, the news of Fukusima has turned me off to anything labeled Japanese for the time being, especially your basic water filters in hard shells.
Now for a dose of irony – I followed up my “nyet” to oysters with a “da” to a piece of tuna sushi (110 RUB) and smoked eel sushi (110 RUB), as well as a Philadelphia roll (420 RUB). My rationale was, well, weak – but I am a sucker for good sushi, and somehow sushi made the cut, but raw oysters did not. The sushi was exceptional, but I have resolved since then to take a break from the Empire of the Sun – it’s the sourcing of the seaweed wraps, as well as the seafood itself that gives me pause, and I have a hard time believing that any restaurant in Moscow – or the USA or Europe, for that matter – can guarantee the sourcing, short of a Geiger Counter next to the soy sauce.
My dinner entree reflected my fresh Talk with Jesus, and I went with beef stroganoff (760 RUB), another step forwards in the muddled culinary theme of the night. My lovely dinner date chose a filet of megger fish (1350 RUB) after we had a lengthy discussion with the waiter and our iPad to determine its advertised Spanish pedigree was believable.
Beef stroganoff is easily one of my favorite dishes in the world, and while most restaurants can deliver an acceptable stroganoff, Clumba Club has an exceptionally good stroganoff. The megger was also highly-rated, but since I was a new convert away from seafood, even the Spanish variety, I did not partake.
We followed our entrees with a raspberry and mint tea (450 RUB) for my lady and an Americano (150 RUB) for me, as well as milfee with berries (450 RUB) and tiramisu (390 RUB) as dessert to be shared.
Again, everything about the meal was enjoyable – quiet atmosphere, tasty food, and attentive service. We spent nearly 3 hours at Clumba Club– much to our surprise – but I still walked away with a sense of unremarkable. Call it a positive unremarkable since everything was fine, but the essence remains the same.
During the past week as I have gathered my thoughts for this review, I have found that I have few poignant thoughts with regard to Clumba. The final bill was 5390 RUB, or about $200, and that, quite frankly, seems expensive to me. Yes, Clumba Club delivered on what a restaurant is “supposed” to deliver upon – food, service, and atmosphere – but was a somewhat forgettable, or at least not memorable, dining experience.
All of that being said, I do fully endorse Clumba Club and would like to try it again on a non-holiday weekend since maybe it will be more lively – most likely for a business lunch type meal in the cafe portion. The location is convenient, especially if you have a larger party, and you will be served high-quality offerings. If, on the other hand, you want more of a people-watching or high-energy affair, then Clumba Club will probably disappoint. |
|
|
|
|
| 687. | Shchisliva
|
Shchisliva
The name? Well, it's an untranslatable weary pun, mixing the colloquial word for “bye!” with the name of cabbage soup. It's one of those extremely contrived jokes that you hate the moment you hear it, and it gets worse with repetition – particularly since “bye!” (rather than maybe “hello!”?) is weak name for any kind of eaterie. But though it's hard to swallow – we don't have to eat the name.
The location is superb – directly opposite the Pushkin Fine Arts Museum – if you'd come here two centuries earlier, the artist Tropinin would have been living next door, where he had his studios too. It's even located so that you can see an exhibition, saunter down the small side-street where the Museum's exit is located, and topple through the front door (take care when crossing the road, however). Unlike the Pushkin, across the road – which is mainly Western art, with a bit of Russian – Shchisliva mainly features traditional Russian dishes. However, they are served with a loving delicacy and lightness of approach, that you'd hardly recognise them if you've been bombarded with their greasy canteen counterparts. This is Russian food prepared with aplomb, and served with the aesthetic beauty the neighbourhood inspires.
They don't – yet – have a liquor licence, although they're allowed to serve you beer (they have a good range of international beers, in fact). If you want anything stronger, you can bring it yourself (a grocery street around the corner on Lenivka), and they charge a 500 RUB corkage charge per bottle. There's a range of home-made lemonades – the pear-flavoured one (250 RUB) was quite pleasant, and a large glassful, instead of the usual thimbleful.
The décor is minimalist-Scandinavian – primarily geometric pine furniture and avocado-green fabrics that add a probably unintentional 1970s feel to the place – you expect to see Diane Keaton waiting for Woody Allen to show up? And rather like Greenwich Village in the 1970s, you have to go outside if you want to light up – it's a 100% no-smoking venue, which suits me fine. Wi-Fi is free, has no fiddly passwords, and goes like the clappers.
Following our established pattern, Emilia cross-examined the waiter about the most complex and outlandish dishes on the menu - whereas I prefer to see how they cope with established classic dishes. The result is usually that Emilia gets left with some outré experiment while I tuck into something nice – but the tables were turned today! The idea of Anchovy in Spicy Battered Leaves of Sage (240 RUB) sounded like something from a fish-and-chip shop to me - but it arrived as elegantly light tempura-style wafers without a hint of grease to them at all. However, if I'd been expecting a Russian-Railways style “salat” (i.e. “leftovers in mayonnaise”), I was delighted to find that Salad of Herrings & Mustard Sauce with Cherry Potatoes (260 RUB) was a tangy and light collation, with lots of crispy Cos lettuce leaves, al-dente potatoes, and delicious herring as the magma core of this extensive volcanic portion. I particularly enjoyed the contrasting textures of crispy lettuce alongside smooth potato, and the mustard sauce was the tongue-tingling masterstroke that brought it all together. I could quite happily have cut straight to the coffee and the bill after that, and felt more than satisfied.
However, our lunch was only just beginning. Although Shchisliva was pretty full for a weekday lunchtime, service was enviably brisk and charmingly shy. With seamless refills of our drinks in hand, we'd decided to try a sampler portion of Okroshka (250 RUB) – Russia's beloved summer soup. It's usually assembled at the table, and can be made with either kvass, or kefir. We tried a little of both, and Emilia came down firmly in favour of the kefir version – which is home-made, the waiter confirmed, although the menu doesn't say so. Since Emilia is something of an okroshka maven at hope, it was a testing moment to discover if they could make it as she likes it? Happy smiles and eager enthusiasm resulted, and the restaurant's reputation was instantly confirmed.
On to the hot main dishes, and once again, I'd chosen a taster portion of two different dumpling dishes. Dumplings with North Sea Fish (440 RUB) were tender and very pleasant, but a bit monotonous on their own – they really needed the foil of some kind of side dish? However, the Fried Dumplings with White Oyster Mushrooms (360 RUB) were my star find of the day, and served in a creamy savoury sauce that sets new records for calorific content. As a Brit reared on my mum's pie and gravy, this was like a Freudian regression into childhood bliss - and I even minded my manners and didn't talk while I was eating it. Culinary satisfaction was in evidence on the other side of the table too – with the arrival of Home-made Smoked Duck with Mashed Parsnip (470 RUB). Although it looked a little bare on the plate, the duck was deliciously tender – although visually the decoration of cranberries might have been better replaced with some kind of jus of them instead? The parsnip easily won the Best Supporting Vegetable Award – creamy, buttered, and just the way your mum made them.
And at that point, we had to admit defeat. It had all been so delicious that we'd sent the plates back scraped clean of every last morsel. The desserts all sounded tempting - but they'd have had to send us home on wheels if we'd given in to temptation.
Shchisliva serves reliable, appealing food without any silly pretentions, in a pleasant and modern setting with attentive service. The prices are rather less than we expected for such a ritzy location, and the atmosphere is relaxed and laid-back, with no particular dress code at all. The strict non-smoking policy is slightly unusual for Moscow, but we found it a major plus.
Shchisliva has an appetising line-up of items for breakfast, and instead of a “business lunch” promotion it offers 20% discount on the entire menu from 12-4pm on weekdays. |
|
|
|
|
| 688. | Daikon Sushi & Noodle House
|
If you thought a Daikon was the latest sub-compact-car to come out of the SE Asian motor industry, you were close, but no cigar – it’s an oriental marinated vegetable sometimes called “winter radish”, something of a delicacy in Japan and Korea. But you were close – Daikon is also a restaurant that’s high on features, with smart metro styling, and a price somewhere near half what you were expecting this excellent ought to cost.
Parking isn’t a problem – located a couple of blocks up Prospekt Mira from Sukharevskaya Ploschad, on-street parking is easy to find. Step inside the doors and you’re enveloped in a warm atmosphere of a lot of people having a lot of fun – and the fun never stops at Daikon, because they genuinely work around the clock. This doesn’t mean that they stay open “until last guest”… you can really arrive at 3am for supper, and the welcome is just as warm. Come at 6am and they will serve you a choice of five different breakfast menus… Asian if you’d like, or if your sense of culinary adventure’s a little dimmed in the early hours, they have European brekkie too.
The lean, clean lines of contemporary decor dominate the interiors, which spread-out over two floors (via a period staircase they’re obliged to keep for building-preservation reasons). There’s not a single hokum bamboo anything at Daikon, and no attempt to replicate an Emperor’s boudoir – in fact it looks strangely similar business-class lounge of a Scandinavian airport. The genuinely curious can even opt to sit along a window-lined corridor from where you can watch the kitchen activities as a theatrical experience, through large observation windows.
The eclectic menu presents Singaporean, Japanese, Indonesian and Thai dishes side-by-side, without any purist zeal about maintaining their separateness – in fact you’re encouraged to mix-and-match, and have whatever you like. To aid the decision process we lubricated our throats with a big bottle of San Pellegrino mineral water (195 Rbs), and alongside it some of the “house special” asian cocktails. London-Hongkong (190 Rbs) is a stiff slug of delicious gin adorned with some rather less successful blue curacao and a soho lychee.. It packs a punch, but I was looking for a little lusciousness… and got a lot of lusciousness when I moved over to one of their supersize Mojitos, a cracking 500 ml for just 195 Rbs. Mrs Torheit made a similar manoeuvre, lured by the exotic name and appearance of a Tokyo Night (160 Rbs-worth of vodka, sake, curacao and schnapps), but ultimately returning to more familiar ground for the next round for a Strawberry Margarita (170 Rbs).
I was badly in need of something to soak-up all that gin by this point – I could really have used a few rice-crackers or oriental-style nuts, but luckily a mix of appetisers to share practically flew out of the kitchen, and were soon arranged on the table with the delicacy of a feng-shui consultant. Opinion was divided over the Glass Noodle Salad with shrimps (190 Rbs) – Mrs T finding it rather penitential in nature, whilst I thought it was deliciously light and fresh. The Lamb Samosas (180 Rbs) found much more favour on the other side of the table – smaller and more delicate than their Indian cousins, these were Indonesian-style and came with a piquant fruit chutney that partnered their rich flavours perfectly. There are some dishes that just mesmerise my attention whenever I see them on a menu – anything with goat’s cheese is one, and fishcakes is the other, and the Thai Fishcakes (195 Rbs) were perfection on a plate… I found myself muffling the words “only one!” after the offer to “mmm, try one!”. The spectacular range of hot starters – at such pocket-friendly prices – is liable to tempt most diners at Daikon in that direction, but for those who’d prefer, there is an appropriately wide selection of sushi and sashimi. But where, we asked, was the daikon? And out it came, sliced into golden yellow ovals with a delicate flavour vaguely similar to what a brine-marinated persimmon might taste like? Some vegetable-stuffed cabbage rolls stood guard over the golden daikon – but at only 122 Rbs this was a tasty vegan treat you wouldn’t need to steal.
The portion-sizes at Daikon (unusually, not indicated in the menu) are generous, but if you arrive extra-hungry you might like to include a hot appetiser in your meal too. Mrs Torheit did just this, diving vigorously into a thick tomato broth of Seafood Nabe (350 Rbs), teeming with succulent cuts of salmon, prawns and squid. This would easily make a light low-carb main-course on its own, in fact.
In honour of the Lenten Fast (and to prove it was possible), I continued in vegan vein with the Pakchoi Beancurd with sesame oil (255 Rbs) - although I’m not sure the “oyster sauce” would really suit dedicated vegans… but it tasted pretty-much like light soy to me, with no fish taste to it at all. Mrs Torheit’s eagle eye for the best pick on any menu saw her trounce my healthy choice, however. The Unazu Smoked Eel with gohan steamed rice is undoubtedly the most stupendously top-value main course in Moscow this week – 295Rbs for a very generous portion of the most succulent eel fillet yet devised by the mind of man. Any dish which can induce a state of voluntary silence in Mrs Torheit is indeed a remarkable achievement. Once again, the main courses were not only beautifully presented on the plate, but brought to the table with delicacy and care… these are people who are really passionate about what they do, and enjoy offering it to you just as much as you enjoy eating it.
My Sago Melon dessert (130 Rbs) illustrated the art of service perfectly – the bowl is lifted to the table using a special wooden spatula in which the bowl nestles. “Too rich!” muttered Mrs T, but I was already wallowing in an unctuous sago-pudding-nostalgia moment from childhood that would have provided Marcel Proust with enough material for two or three chapters. Creamy-perfect, there is a small amount of chopped melon to garnish it, but you can soon get rid of that and enjoy the sumptuous sago. This was all merely pique from Mrs Torheit’s part, since her classical Asian dessert of Indonesian Pineapple with ice cream (185 Rbs) turned-out to be good-ol’ pineapple fritters, and not the oriental exotica she’d imagined… although it was none the worse for that. A hot shot of Espresso (65 Rbs) for me and Jasmine Pearl tea for the mem’sahib (155 Rbs for a very large pot) brought down the curtain on a very successful evening.
In a city where quality and service so rarely merit the jaw-dropping bill for stylishly-served Asian cuisine, Daikon turns the tables – you get a meal out that probably would have cost double in other restaurants, without any compromise on quality or service. No wonder the place was packed to the gunnels when we went, so unless you really are coming at 3am, booking’s strongly advised. |
|
|
|
|
| 689. | Solyanka
|
Not the Solyanka Your Mom Made
I’ve frankly never been fond of the word solyanka. Perhaps it’s the phonetic way the word seems to crudely roll off the tongue when pronounced, or perhaps it brings back those lingering memories from the mid-90’s as a Russian language student living in St. Petersburg and asking my host mom what’s for dinner, only to hear again that it would be a solyanka of some mysterious sort. As in most kitchens across the world, solyanka – or stew – is merely a recipe to throw in a pot whatever you can find around the kitchen along with a pinch of salt, a bay leaf and some parsely. In my time I have fished out from various solyankas various inedible parts of a chicken including a foot, the inevitable sharp chip of bone, a roach, and even once a bolt.
Thus I accepted the invitation to go the new restaurant-bar-club in lower Kitai Gorod with keen curiosity yet perhaps some subconscious trepidation. Still, it was close to my apartment and I needed a good meal. I had recently recovered from food poisoning from a recent trip to Sochi for the recent gargantuan economic forum where everyone is goo-goo and ga-ga for the 2014 Winter Olympics and the gilded dreams of the buckets of money that comes with it (the culprit being a hotel restaurant; a notoriously worse offender than a rynok shwarma stand no matter how many stars on the hotel’s lobby wall). I was still a bit bleary eyed from the late nights at the “unofficial nightclub” of the forum (a surreal Mad Max-meets-Waterworld-meets-Dubai oil & gas themed club built on a mock offshore oil platform, complete with working oil derricks) and a bit weak from multiple days of a monotonous bread and white rice diet, so I was looking forward to having some real food and moving past my hang-ups over the club’s name – but knew that another chicken foot would do me in for good.
However, just seeing the sign for the club seemed to provide some reassurance. Just the font styling of the word solyanka in silver letters, something that seemed to resemble the old Zil label of the old Soviet party cars and ubiquitous Soviet refrigerators, showed some thoughtful design and intellectual ironic flair, a telltale of a smart and creative management - and hopefully cooks - that appreciate the details.
And indeed just the details of the restaurant interior design require some appreciation here. To be fair, solyanka does not just mean “stew” in the strict food sense, but more of a “mix” in broader descriptive terms. In this case solyanka means eclectic – very eclectic. The location is an old late 18th century kupecheski merchant’s mansion, with tall windows and antique ceilings. However, despite this neo-aristocratic setting the interior concept instantly struck me as a modern triangulation of So-Ho, Havana, and London. I think I was somewhat near the mark as the publicity director who came by our table described the place as a convergence of Miami, London, and a classic St. Petersburg apartment.
This seemingly pretentious mixture was balanced out and grounded with a crazy assortment – yet tasteful selection - of used furniture that could have come from Craig’s List, and in fact may inspire fond recollections of that old favorite couch you once had in the basement. The full space had approximately 4-5 rooms, with not one room or chair matching, and even each toilet room in the progressive unisex bathroom was wallpapered in a completely different style (yes, I actually checked). And, like a giant Transformer robot, the main room goes through a metamorphosis at 11pm – changing from an eclectically designed dining area to a theatrically lighted club dance floor complete with a stage and a wall of speakers and video screens. Somehow all of this ad-hoc yet well planned eclectic design concept works, earning kudos to the club’s designer who took the name and theme solyanka stylishly to heart.
And that’s what is so special about Solyanka – a theme that both subtly and surprisingly works. It is a restaurant, club, bar, clothing store (still unsure about that element), and gallery – all wrapped up in a packaging of different color wrappings and ribbons. I could have sat there for a while sipping on my beer (200 Rbs) admiring these details, but the menu of course deserves some mention here, too, as the food was the original intent of my visit and my writing here. I did see solyanka on the menu, although the menu itself is rather a solyanka of different cuisines ranging from Thai (-ish) with a peanut and coconut milk soup with crab meat (360 Rbs), an attempt at Southwest fusion with a chicken and mango quesadilla (230 Rbs) to reliable Russian standbys such as beet vinaigrette (190). However, before digging into these and other goodies, the waitress brought out cut carrot sticks, each in its own shot glass of very flavorful ginger sauce, to whet our appetites as compliments from the chef. A basket of bread then came out along with arranged buttered spoons – cleverly arranged silver spoons full of creamy butter – as another unique prelude to the meal, which made me feel as we were getting a bit buttered up ourselves.
I was in desperate need of flavor after days of bread and rice, and the Thai peanut and coconut milk soup with crab meat delivered in that department. The soup indeed had real crab meat, confirmed by the occasional bit of crab shell, and was quite tasty – albeit a bit salty and a bit thick. The chicken and mango quesadilla fell a little short of the mark as the mangos were not yet ripe enough for cooking, making them a bit bland and too firm. My date – who by the way was not so enamored with the hip collection of Craig’s List furniture but rather hooked by the in-restaurant clothing boutique “Twins” (yeah, really owned by twin sisters. Go after you eat, otherwise you may not have money for even a buttered spoon) – seemed satisfied with the vinaigrette, although it is hard to go wrong with that recipe but still challenging to make it too exciting (unless you throw in some goat cheese and pine nuts like one yummy restaurant in Moscow, nameless here).
For main courses we perused through the seafood items with interest including dorado (460 Rbs), steamed salmon (330 Rbs), and tuna steak (170 Rbs), quickly skipped over the pig leg (270 Rbs) and rib eye (680 Rbs), and settled on the risotto (280 Rbs) for the fashion loving lady and black squid ink spaghetti (490 Rbs) for the funky-furniture loving gentleman. The risotto was quite good but square and just a small step up from my recent rice recovery diet. I still am not sure what to make of the spaghetti as it seemed to be a combination of the soup and appetizer I had just ate. There was peanut sauce, bits of crab meat and crab shell, cilantro, and I swear some unripe pieces of mango. Was this actually the chef’s special solyanka by another name?
I admire bold and innovative dishes and the chefs that create them (we were told the chef had worked at the Hyatt Ararat), but this mixed solyanka was not as successful as the mix of interior decoration surrounding us. My taste buds were still feeling a little uninspired, but were awoken by an excellent vanilla creme-brule for dessert that had a perfect crispy, caramelized blow-torched crust. Yum.
We stuck around for a while to see the place transition from restaurant to nightclub. When we arrived at 8pm we were nearly the only clientele, but around 11pm people began trickling in. Given the relative emptiness inside at the time, we were a bit surprised to see a long line outside when we finally left outside the velvet rope. Yes, even a place with a name like Solyanka prides itself in its face control.
I left Solyanka more impressed with the interior and concept than the kitchen, but have already made it a local stop for drinks and creme-brule. Definitely worth checking out when in the Kitai Gorod area, even if for a business lunch (270 RBS) on weekdays if you have some business in Kitai Gorod other than clubbing on the weekends. Solyanka – a great club that knows life is in the details, and not afraid to experiment with peanut sauce. Thursday - hip-hop night, Friday - techno, and Saturday - Nu-Rave. See you there. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 690. | Jewish Avant-Garde. Chagall, Altman, Shterenberg, and Others
|
Jewish Avant-Garde. Chagall, Altman, Shterenberg, and Others
The show will trace the emergence and development of Jewish modernism as a trailblazing phenomenon in 20th-century art. The exhibition explores one of the most dynamic periods in the culture of Russian Jews. The 1917 Revolution proclaimed the equality of all nations, which was followed by the abolition of residency restrictions for Jews that had been in force in the Russian Empire. As a result, dozens of talented Jewish artists and writers moved to Moscow and Petrograd, where they played a crucial role in shaping and advancing Soviet avant-garde. Thanks to newfound creative freedom, Jewish culture entered a period of unprecedented resurgence. Some of the finest Jewish artists such as Marc Chagall, Nathan Altman, Joseph Chaikov, Eliezer (El) Lissitzky, David Shterenberg, and other artists from various groups and movements made ingenious use of modernism’s innovations in their experiments as they sought to create «new Jewish art.» |
|
|
|
|
| 691. | Jewish Avant-Garde. Chagall, Altman, Shterenberg, and Others
|
Jewish Avant-Garde. Chagall, Altman, Shterenberg, and Others
This spring’s central exhibition titled «Jewish Avant-Garde. Chagall, Altman, Shterenberg, and Others» is set to open at the Jewish Museum and Tolerance Center. The show will trace the emergence and development of Jewish modernism as a trailblazing phenomenon in 20th-century art.
The exhibition explores one of the most dynamic periods in the culture of Russian Jews. The 1917 Revolution proclaimed the equality of all nations, which was followed by the abolition of residency restrictions for Jews that had been in force in the Russian Empire. As a result, dozens of talented Jewish artists and writers moved to Moscow and Petrograd, where they played a crucial role in shaping and advancing Soviet avant-garde.
Thanks to newfound creative freedom, Jewish culture entered a period of unprecedented resurgence. Some of the finest Jewish artists such as Marc Chagall, Nathan Altman, Joseph Chaikov, Eliezer (El) Lissitzky, David Shterenberg, and other artists from various groups and movements made ingenious use of modernism’s innovations in their experiments as they sought to create «new Jewish art.»
The exhibition spotlights the evolution of the Jewish avant-garde in Russia — from revitalizing Jewish folk art, adapting its style for modern use, and reinventing its motifs to the avant-garde stage expressed in non-representational abstract forms.
National theaters, not least the Moscow State Jewish Chamber Theater (GOSET), were among the most important experimental platforms for the new art. Over the years, prominent cultural figures such as Abram Efros, Alexis Granowsky, Yehezkel Dobrushin, Solomon Mikhoels, and Marc Chagall worked for GOSET. According to many accounts, Chagall's theatrical compositions influenced not only the scenery of productions but also the performance of Jewish actors. Chagall’s series Introduction to the Jewish Theater, on display at the exhibition, is widely regarded as one of the pinnacles of his oeuvre. This section of the show will also include works by Alexander Tyshler and Mark Epstein, who collaborated with another avant-garde group — the Kultur Lige Theater Studio under the artistic direction of Ephroim Loiter.
Exhibitions of Jewish artists held in Moscow in 1917, 1918, and 1922 became important milestones in the history of the Jewish avant-garde. The show will feature a reconstruction of the 1922 Kultur Lige exhibition, which showcased works by Nathan Altman, Marc Chagall, and David Shterenberg. The curators of the new project consider that seminal exhibition to be the culmination of avant-garde experimentation both in these artists’ respective careers and the overall Jewish art movement.
A section of the exhibition is dedicated to the creative output produced by Jewish artists in the 1920s: from Alexander Labas’s original Cubist compositions, Alexander Tyshler’s color-dynamic constructions, Joseph Chaikov’s analytical sculpture, and El Lissitzky’s Suprematist Prouns (an acronym for «project for the affirmation of the new») to works made toward the end of the decade when avant-garde trends died down before Jewish art was eventually incorporated into the context of the new Soviet «grand style.»
The exhibition features more than 100 paintings and drawings by Marc Chagall, Nathan Altman, David Shterenberg, El Lissitzky, Robert Falk, Joseph Chaikov, Alexander Tyshler, Solomon Nikritin, Yakov Pain, Nisson Shifrin, Isaac Ber Ryback, and others.
The works on display at the show are on loan from the collections of some of Russia’s largest museums, including the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, the State Russian Museum, the State Tretyakov Gallery, the Museum of the Jewish History in Russia, the Yekaterinburg Museum of Fine Arts, the Nizhny Tagil State Museum of Fine Arts, as well as from private collections.
More info |
|
|
|
|
| 692. | The Imprint of the Epoch. Vladimir Lagrange
|
The Imprint of the Epoch. Vladimir Lagrange
Lumiere Gallery presents the exhibition project “The Imprint of the Epoch. Vladimir Lagrange”, dedicated to the anniversary of the author.
Vladimir Lagrange (1939-2022), who would have turned 85, went down in the history of Soviet photography primarily as an outstanding reporter of the “Thaw” era. The sharpness of perception and sensitivity to the heroes of his time became decisive in the work of the master. His lust for life and tireless creative searches have been embodied in a rich visual archive, with which the Lumiere Gallery has been working for more than twenty years.
The exhibition continues the long-term research of the Vladimir Lagrange Foundation. The exposition includes a unique collection of more than forty works. For the first time, the public will be presented with original vintage prints from the collection of the Lumiere Gallery and the personal archive of the author, “contacts” – small frames demonstrating the creative reflections of the photographer, as well as collectible prints with the signature of the master.
The project was based on little-known works by Lagrange, revealing one of the most productive periods of the author’s work: “Installation of power lines, 1971”, “Intermission in the Kremlin, 1960s”, “Hooray, holidays! 1984”. The presented plots with portraits of workers, images of thawed childhood and essays on the instructions of the publishing house offer a deeper study of the author’s work. The exhibition also featured iconic works beloved by collectors and photography enthusiasts, such as “Goalkeeper, 1961”, “To work. Moscow, 1967”, “In a hurry. The 1960s”, “Young ballerinas, 1962”. Since 2007, Russian and foreign photographic collections have been replenished with works by Vladimir Lagrange. At the moment, the author’s prints are represented in more than eighty private collections.
Over the past four years, as part of personal exhibition projects, Vladimir Lagrange’s works have been shown in such museums and galleries as Mira Square (Krasnoyarsk), Yeltsin Center (Yekaterinburg), Progress Gallery (Kirov), National Art Gallery “Hazine” (Kazan), Samara regional Museum of local history (Samara), Lipetsk Regional the Museum of Local Lore (Lipetsk), the Erarta Museum (St. Petersburg).
Vladimir Lagrange was born in 1939 in Moscow. His interest in photography arose mainly due to his parents: his father worked as a reporter for the newspaper «Pravda», and his mother was a photo editor. In 1959, he came to work in TASS Newsreel as a student of a photojournalist, where he would spend four years, and then for a long time his professional life would be connected with the magazine «Soviet Union». Vladimir Lagrange is known as the «thaw photographer,» a time when the canon of art is changing: in magazines and newspapers, courageous heroes are replaced by romantic young people. Vladimir Lagrange is one of the first to understand what forms of expression the new generation is looking for. As a young professional, immersed in the life of the times of the thaw, Lagrange spoke about the era with a new expressive language. In 1962, the exhibition «Our Youth» — one of the main events of the year for domestic reporters — opens with a photograph of Lagrange’s «Pigeons of the World» (1962), against which the entire exposition unfolds. In May 1962, the magazine «Soviet Photo» publishes this work on a U-turn, and it will forever remain the «business card» of the author.
Moscow has always been famous for its pigeons (photo «Pigeons», 1972). This dovecote was in the area of VDNH, on Argunovskaya street, where the photographer lived in those years. She was visible from the window of the house. The Ostankino tower served as a contrast. Compact frame construction — black and white and nothing more.
In 1963, Lagrange began working in the magazine Soviet Union. The magazine, which continued the work of the famous «USSR at a Construction Site,» mostly created the myth of the USSR. Many doors opened before the journalist, thanks to which Vladimir Lagrange drove along and «shot» the country far and wide. In 1987, American publishers launched a large-scale project, «One Day in the Life of the Soviet Union,» in which Lagrange also takes part.
In 1964, Vladimir Lagrange, for the first time as a tourist, visited France. He shot an unknown country and extraordinary everyday life, and after returning in one night, he printed more than two hundred photographs. In addition to France, the photographer travelled to Italy, Poland and Afghanistan, where he went to shoot the withdrawal of troops.
In 1991, the era of the USSR ended, and the magazine «Soviet Union» was closed. Vladimir Lagrange first goes to the Rodina magazine, and then to the Moscow bureau of the French agency Sipa Press and continues to shoot a social report in a manner peculiar only to him.
Vladimir Lagrange is a participant in the legendary exhibitions «The USSR — the country and people in art photographs», which travelled the world (1969-1975), as well as «The USSR — the country and people in art photographs» (1968), IV All-Union Exhibition «Seven Years in Action» (1963). Today, his exhibitions are held both in Russia and abroad.
The works of Vladimir Lagrange are in museum and private collections, and in 2002 the author was awarded the highest award of the professional guild of photographers and the Golden Eye of Russia Journalists Union.
More info |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 693. | Coffee and Cigarettes / By J.Jarmusch /
|
Coffee and Cigarettes / By J.Jarmusch /
This is the fuel that often keeps us going. We ask them to be apart of our ceremonial rituals to start the day, compliment our meal, comfort our uncomfortable situations. Overall just leave us with some addiction to feel a little naughty with. Caffeine & Nicotine are the two vices we all know and love - or Coffee and Cigarettes as they are better known.
In his new movie, Coffee and Cigarettes, Jim Jarmusch uses the title objects to explore the often simple, but honestly discomforting conversations we find ourselves stuck in. Shot between 1986 and 2003, Jarmusch filmed eleven short dialogues in black and white to create this feature length film. He presents each character not for their acting ability, but for their natural personality. Rather than focusing on any meaningful dialogue, Jarmusch uses coffee and cigarettes as a comforting platform on which two contrasting personalities can survive.
Beginning as a side project for NBC’s (American Cable Network) skit comedy show “Saturday Night Live,” Jarmusch invited famous actors such as Bill Murray, Cate Blanchett, and Steve Buscemi to play themselves in scripted scenes centered around coffee and cigarettes. Each scene is set around a small coffee table and using basic camera angles, takes an unpretentious view of each situation. The raw cinematography creates a very natural and honest feel for the viewer. Coupled with the characters effortless acting, each short dialogue appeared very true-to life.
In “Cousins,” Cate Blanchett plays herself while reuniting with her down-and-out cousin (also played by Blanchett). Taking a break from press junkets for her upcoming movie, Blanchett meets her cousin for coffee in a fancy hotel. Showing her obvious jealousy towards her relatives’ success, Jarmusch makes no attempt to ease the tension between the two. The addition of coffee and cigarettes offers each character a comfort blanket to grasp onto during their uneasy encounter. More lighthearted scenes - such as the one with Bill Murray and Wu-Tang members GZA and RZA - offer a more zesty side to the film. Murray, who plays himself in hiding, wears a busboy uniform while gulping coffee straight from the pot. The Wu-Tang members advise Murray of his unhealthy habit offering herbal remedies to correct his smoker’s cough.
Whether it’s the awkward conversations that are shared or the family reunions gone bad, coffee and cigarettes remain the only true companion to the characters in their pathetic efforts to be genuinely honest with each another. But could these two symbols, whose personalities are as bland as the white ceramic dishes they are used with, be the main characters of a feature length film? Jim Jarmusch successfully weaves a pattern of real-life situations in a movie about our passionate relationship with coffee and cigarettes. |
|
|
|
|
| 694. | Rubin Steiner Quartet
|
Rubin Steiner Quartet
It was Massive Attack meets Charles Mingus. On Saturday the 11th a privileged audience at Chocolate was in attendance for an exceedingly dynamic performance by the Rubin Steiner Quartet. Combining live trombone, double bass, keyboards and vocals with pre-programmed drum machines and samplers the French group presented something all too often lacking from the pure electronic arrangements so popular these days: raw energy.
The group is led by Frederick Landier who, speaking with a thick French accent, explained that “there is no concept to the music. Just an effort to avoid genres.” And while just about every musician will say that their music is so different as to defy categories, in the case of the Rubin Steiner Quartet it actually is true. Their trombone player, Benoit Lovette, and upright bass player, Sylvestre Perrusson, have technical skills belying years of musical education and still more years paying dues in small clubs, but the overall sound of the band lies somewhere between trip-hop, rocksteady, and be-bop jazz.
The performance started at eleven and at first the clearly wealthy and blas? dinner party set seemed skeptical. The four band members, dressed more like architecture students than hepcats, did not bring with them any aura of greatness- until the music started. While some bands try to start slow, soft or popish the R.S. Quartet jumped right in with aggressively funky jazz. The use of programmed drums actually benefited the sound. Of course programmed drums usually mean a sacrifice of spontaneity, but in this unique case the tradeoff worked. The rhythms used ranged from standard jazz beats with ever hypnotic ride symbol accents, to distinctly electronic percussion with hip hop and two-step beats.
The set consisted of songs from their two albums, Lo-Fi Nu Jazz Vol. 2 and Wonderbar Drei, as well as songs from their new album due for release around January. Their performance overall was more reminiscent of Wonderbar Drei with its focus on live instruments and original composition. While the band started out as a primarily sample based project, their last album featured a scant two samples. The only borrowed line in the show was in the well placed use of the melody from Juan Tizol and Duke Ellington’s Caravan.
While the band performed, an interesting set of visuals were projected above the stage. True, the majority of bands these days do the same, but the Rubin Steiner Quartet offered more than the glorified screen-saver or abstract imagery motifs usually slapped onto live performances. The bands’ keyboard player used a video control unit on stage which allowed him to synchronize with uncanny rhythm the video being played to the music. Images ranged from footage of Gagarin in a centrifuge to kitschy ‘60s gladiator films. But the end result was fascinating.
My only complaint is that the energy of the show- and the many frenetic young people that the group drew- would have worked better in a larger club with a dance floor. As it was there was some conflict of comfort between the younger set of the crowd jumping up and down, and the older clique just trying to eat dinner. That aside, Chocolate offered a fantastic show from a band you will definitely be hearing more of in the future. |
|
|
|
|
| 695. | The Terminal / By Steven Spielberg /
|
The Terminal / By Steven Spielberg /
I heard that this movie was loosely based on true events, about an Iranian political refugee who has been stranded in Paris’ Charles de Gaulle airport since the late 80’s. Dreamworks paid this gentleman $250,000 for the rights to his amazing story, and with good reason. After having seen The Terminal, I felt like I was more interested in the person’s true story than this adaptation. This could clearly be a case of reality being more interesting than fiction.
Tom Hanks plays Viktor Navorski, a visitor to the New York from the fictional country of Krakozia. Upon his arrival to JFK International Airport, he discovers that his country is in the midst of a civil war; his papers considered null and void until a new Krakozian government is elected and its sovereignty is recognized. He becomes stuck at the airport for an indefinite period of time, forced to find ways to survive in his temporary abode.
In Viktor’s time at the terminal, he chances upon meeting many different characters whose lives somehow parallel his current situation. Viktor’s antagonist is Dixon, expertly played by Stanley Tucci. Dixon is the airport terminal’s acting Security Director. Having worked the same station for over 10 years, he considers Viktor’s arrival to be the annoying wrinkle in his impending promotion. Catherine Zeta-Jones plays the love interest, in what seems to be her most beautiful appearance ever on screen. It’s a shame that her character is utterly superfluous and her performance unconvincing, however. I believe her whole existence in the script was only a plot device, a way to pass the time and eventually help reveal the secret of Viktor’s hollow can of peanuts.
The most delightfully surprising performance in this movie comes from Kumar Pallana, a very familiar face that some will know as “that funny Indian dude” from the Wes Anderson movies (Royal Tenenbaums). Playing the wary, playfully sadistic janitor, he quickly becomes Viktor’s most staunch ally. Viktor himself is played adequately by Hanks, who in his older years seems much more comfortable with the dramatic aspects of his character rather than the comedic fish-out-of-water scenes. Despite his horrible Russian accent (which I suppose can be explained as ‘Krakozian’), he easily manages to make us cheer for Viktor, but it never approaches the same effect as his performance in Forrest Gump.
Director Steven Spielberg definitely has a Gump-like story on his hands, with so many common elements: a likeable central character, the exposure of a failed system, a hurtful love story, and an overall feel-good atmosphere that permeates through the movie. However, it seemed as if Spielberg only had these in the background, instead focusing on the fact that these people are all stuck in their own particular moments. The result is that many of the events that occur in the movie don’t resonate well with the audience, and that satisfying feeling from Viktor’s ultimate triumph feels empty, contrived, and drawn-out.
In fact, beautiful as it is with its impeccable cinematography, the movie feels about 30-40 minutes longer than it should be. It would’ve benefited well from the deletion of a few scenes and supporting characters. If it were to focus more on Viktor and Dixon’s personal motivations, then the feeling for both characters would be more heartfelt by movie’s end. Instead, it failed to give me that emotional resonance (well, partly because I was still reeling at how useless Zeta-Jones’ character was).
The main theme that the filmmakers decided to work on was the idea of getting ‘stuck’. I can agree that being stuck in an airport is the perfect metaphor for being stuck in a moment that one can’t seem to get out of. Perhaps this movie put itself in such a situation, stuck in its own self-inflicted mess? |
|
|
|
|
| 696. | Alexander / By O. Stone /
|
Alexander / By O. Stone /
They just don’t make historical epics like they used to. And in saying this, I don’t even mean the old classics such as “Ben-Hur” or “Lawrence of Arabia”, but with more fairly recent efforts, such as “Braveheart” and “Gladiator”. After seeing such disasters like “Troy” and now the freshly-unpacked “Alexander”, you wonder where exactly Hollywood has lost its way, particularly in this single genre of film that it has always excelled in.
Just as in many other historical epics, “Alexander” follows the life and times of a legendary figure of the past, namely Alexander the Great. A crib note for the historically challenged: this certain Alexander (Colin Farrell) was the figure responsible for the massive reach of the Greek Empire in the 3rd Century BC, who at his demise at 32 years of age was able to unite disparate lands from Europe to Africa to Asia all under one ruler.
So as one can probably imagine, the movie traces much of Alexander’s life from boyhood to end, in blurry Hollywoodized history. There is mention of his insatiable thirst for battle, his questionable sexual preferences, his identity crisis as a Macedonian, and the complex relationship he shares with each of his parents. The movie attempts to take all of these into consideration into the shaping of his life and legend. The story is presented in narration-dramatization fashion, with the ruler-historian Ptolemy (Anthony Hopkins) dictating Alexander’s story to his scribes.
The result: one bloody and boring mess of a movie.
Even Sir Anthony couldn’t save this effort, as he was fed line after line after line of yawn-inducing narration. In fact, even in the dramatic scenes felt like it was just each A-list actor delivering his/her own monologue. I suppose in days of old, people would not have conversations, but just regale one another with long-winded and overblown tirades. If I am allowed to make only one highlight performance, it would be Val Kilmer’s playing Alexander’s father, Philip of Macedon. Despite my opinion that there isn’t one single character that a viewer would find likeable, there is a certain depth and complexity in Kilmer’s performance that elicits curiosity and pathos.
On the other hand, Farrell is a poor choice for such a grand figure as Alexander. He seemed to feel out of place in every scene, despite the heroic efforts of his makeup artists. Angelina Jolie was also equally ineffective as Alexander’s mother, whose supposedly-Greek (yet Russian-sounding) accent in the Classical Age also proved too much for me to handle. If I make mention of all the lines of dialogue and scenes (including the controversial bisexual ones) that could have been sacrificed, director Oliver Stone could have come up with a movie about an hour long – not quite up to ‘epic’ proportions.
Apart from the superfluous scenes, Stone tries to trick us with more trappings that come with an epic, and he succeeds only halfway. There are the grand and sweeping camera shots, the exaggerated and bombastic soundtrack, and many scenes of A-list actors shouting at one another. Those were the failed attempts. Stone however tries to make up for this using skillful CGI work. The ancient city of Babylon was a true sight to behold, complete with its Hanging Gardens and Tower of Babel. In addition, the battle scenes were effectively bloody and brutal, and it was a true challenge not to cringe. (In particular, if you have to watch this movie, there was one beautifully shot showdown scene with Alexander on his horse charging against an elephant.)
Ultimately, where the film suffers is from a lack of focus; an angle. By the end of the movie, I still couldn’t determine exactly what Alexander’s motivation was. In watching movies such as this, I got used to people who seemed quite ordinary, but were able to rise to the challenge of extraordinary circumstances from some sort of fire that burns within them. With “Braveheart” |
|
|
|
|
| 697. | Steven Bug
|
Steven Bug
It’s always a good sign when you see a DJ dancing behind the decks. I don’t wish to imply that those who stand still or who seem deep in concentration aren’t enjoying themselves, but the chances are that if the DJ is dancing and visibly taking pleasure in his music – then you will be too. From the minute the German DJ and producer Steve Bug took his position behind the decks and Final Scratch console at Mio on Saturday night, he could be seen bobbing up and down, smiling and generally looking quite pleased with his set and with his crowd. By 5 am I too was dancing, jumping up and down, and smiling right back at him from across the dance floor. Though I have to admit that he was slightly quicker off the mark than I was…
When I arrived with a friend at midnight, the party had obviously only just started. We managed to get a table next to the as-yet empty dance floor, so we ordered a beer and settled into the big comfy couch for a gentle start to the long evening ahead. Much to our dismay, the beer was decidedly dodgy. A strange taste and an even stranger aftertaste meant that we quickly moved on to better stuff. The Zolotaya Bochka, at 90rbs for 0.5l was the cheapest drink on the menu. Conveniently enough for the club’s cash registers, I doubt if much of it was ordered that night! Our vodka with red bull cost 200rbs which, despite the fact that it could rival any of the London clubs’ pricelists, seemed like relatively good value for money. I should know by now that a night out in Moscow is not for those faint of heart or light of wallet!! With a 500rbs entrance fee and 50rbs at the cloakroom, Mio proved to be no exception to the rule.
But I liked the club. True, it didn’t need the plasma screen showing the usual catwalk parades (why do the clubs all have this??) but generally it seemed pretty unpretentious, with a d?cor and lighting done in relatively good taste. Nothing too adventurous - but here that makes a refreshingly nice change! I was also pleased to see that the crowd, which progressively grew until the club was full, seemed, for the most part, genuinely to be there for the music and the party, and not just to show off their new Gucci shoes. Refreshing indeed!!
By 2.30am, action on the dance floor was in full swing. DJ Helga was on fine form, playing deep house tunes which were really getting the crowd going. By the end of her set, she was playing with her audience as much as she was playing with her vinyl, making them whistle and shout as she teased them with the techno beats. Steve Bug was impressed by her performance and we agreed that if she is representative of Moscow’s up and coming talent, then there is hope after all for the music scene in Russia.
Steve himself took over the reigns at 3am. Full of high hopes at the prospect of a rare chance to listen to a world class DJ in a city which can only be described as an electronic music backwater, I have to admit to being disappointed as he dropped the tempo. I wondered what his time with the legendary Ritchie Hawtin had taught him, and puzzled at the need for the 700 tracks he claimed to have on his Final Scratch software. Why waste some of the most state-of-the art music technology, and access to some of the finest tunes ever to grace clubland, if you’re going to play an uninspired set with complete disregard for the mood of the crowd you are playing to? He may have been dancing behind the decks, but I was definitely only lurking half-heartedly on the sidelines.
Oh ye of little faith!! It soon became apparent that there was method in his madness, and soon after that it became physically impossible not to dance! My impatience had obstructed the understanding that he was constructing his set in the manner of a true artist. A DJ’s set, like a piece of musical prose, has to have a beginning, a middle, and an end… with all the nuances of poetry and the highs and lows of a dramatic novel. It’s not just a case of finishing off what somebody else has started. More to the point, we’d have never made till so late in the night if we’d peaked too soon! It’s not an unknown phenomenon that to delay the climax is to prolong the pleasure…
And a pleasure it was indeed! He played a safe set- nothing too risky, but good, bouncy tunes which progressed to deep, penetrating hard house beats. By 5am, I had seen and heard enough. He was good – no doubt about it. I’d had a great dance and a very good night: My smiles and rosy cheeks were testament to that! By the time I left, he was still going strong. The audience was loving every minute of it, and visibly so was he. As I said before…It’s always a good sign to see the DJ dancing behind his decks! |
|
|
|
|
| 698. | Avant Festival 2007
|
Avant Festival 2007
Drizzling rain started in the morning failed to hinder the admirers of independent...and simply good and trendy music from gathering at WinZavod where Gauloises Avant Fest 2007 took place, supported by the French cigarette brand Gauloises.Lineup of the Fest was so unpredictable that it was impossible to guess what kind the music was going to be. On the one hand, bands from different countries playing modern music were gathered in one place, on the other hand, stylistic and even age diversity of the artists excited apprehension that it would be impossible to mix it all into one juicy and sappy musical cocktail.At the same time Russian and foreign guests of Gauloises Avant Fest 2007 tried to keep up with the pace and stirred up the audience. The Ladybug Transistor made the onlookers raise their hands at the command. The Russian bands didn’t resort to such kind of tricks, but even without them Yolochnye Igrushki, Punk TV, Silence Kit and other bands sounded very competitive.The Headliner’s part of the Fest was the most memorizing, ShitDisco showed what the audience had expected – pert riffs, pulsating beat, vocals loosing into falsetto, undressing and shower-bathing. Long-expected God is an Astronaut was met with great ovation, and they kept the true post-rock style.The veterans of American grunge, whose music brought up more than one generation of music lovers, finally shook the audience. Just in a second the front of the stage became overcrowded, the band started playing dirty guitar grunge riffs so the onlookers stared dancing shouting and applauding. Thanks to Mudhoney!And we’re looking forward to the next Festival. |
|
|
|
|
| 699. | Lali Puna
|
Lali Puna
Avant Club’s booking manager introduced Lali Puna before Saturday night’s concert by thanking fans for helping bring ‘true independent music’ to Moscow. For those who attended their last concert in Moscow, three years ago, the show likely exceeded expectations. The group provided a varied set that even eventually broke the icy distance often separating fans and groups from abroad. Posters produced by the co-sponsoring Goethe Institute promised a performance by the most fashionable group in the world. Lali Puna’s hip indy rock image and music continues to win them new fans worldwide.
On and offstage, Lali Puna has a congenial dynamic. The band combines the charismatic and ever-understated founder, keyboardist and vocalist, Valerie Trebeljahr, bass guitarist Markus Acher, drummer Christoph Bradner, and keyboardist Christian Hess. Founded in early 1998 as Trebeljahr moved on from her previous gig with L.B. Page, Lali Puna’s current line-up dates from 2003 with the substitution of Hess for departing keyboardist Florian Zimmer. Since then, the band released an album, Faking the Books (Morr, 2004), and continues to develop their own distinctive and dynamic version of electronic music. This recent release spurred a second North American tour and added to their list of acclaimed EPs: Tridecoder (Morr, 1999), Scary World Theory (Morr, 2001), and Left Handed (Morr, 2003). With their last two discs, they seem to have become more of a guitar-drums-keyboard-vocalist rock group than a four-track and computer show. Saturday they blended Trebajahr’s morose alto with their rock-infused electronica on stage at Avant Club.
Before the show the band shared dinner and a beer at the venue’s snackbar. After laughing and chatting together in German, and giving a television interview, the group headed backstage to prep for the show. Avant club is a large concert venue with stadium seating and a large dance-floor, but even at just over half-full there was still an excited buzz through the crowd. While waiting, one expat yelled from the back row to his friend at the edge of the stage: “Sasha – what’s up man? Rock and Roll!” clashing with the almost too cool for school atmosphere in the rest of the theater. The fans, though excited, seem to affect the same relaxed indy rocker persona as the band they came to see. Yet as the clock ticked, this parliament-smoking hipster cool (in a no-smoking venue), began to crack around the edges and some die-hard fans jumped up and down with their friends in anxious anticipation.
Filing out a little before ten while the house lights were still dimming, Lali Puna took the stage and began their set with a slow throbbing number, filling the house with sound. Pausing afterwards for a coy “Privy-Yet,” the group moved into the favorite “1-800-FEAR.” Both songs were met with much applause and even some whistling. Though fans recognized many of the songs, there was little dancing. Most of the young hip crowd bobbed their heads to the beat, awkwardly searching for the best way to react to the music. Trebajahr’s stage presence was half shy child half stern concert performer, in contrast to the jamming Acher and Bradner. Her understated presence created an awkward distance between the band and their fans while she moved between singing, spoken word and whisper. Though admonishing in the hushed, “I never said you had to be afraid/ of the cookie monster beside your bed,” she herself didn’t move or seem to emote much behind her keyboard and synthesizer stack. Lali Puna played in front of a huge simulcast of the concert (shot from multiple cameras) but this larger than life show seemed oddly juxtaposed to Trebejahr’s demure onstage presence.
While awkward alienation may have marked the start of their set, the group soon ramped into a full sonic onslaught. Most of the songs featured a repeated melodic or lyrical figure over an evolving background of drum-base-keyboard-synthesizers. By the middle of their set the band had totally saturated the house with sound. This was an all out rock show. As the group continued the intense deluge of sound that marked the middle of their set one wondered whether they could maintain such a furious pacing. There was no banter between songs – except for a timid “spacebo. thank you.” after most. And while a few loving fans sang along, the crowds reaction didn’t begin to explode with the band’s music until the very end of their set.
Slowing down with their last number, “6-0-3,” though not sacrificing intensity, Lali Puna was called onstage for two successive encores. At the beginning of the second encore, they slammed into technical difficulties when one of the bass player’s tuners broke. “I’ve never had anything like this before – a short break and we’ll be back.” Acher apologized to the crowd. To keep things going, keyboardist Hess started to lay down a phat beat, only to have his equipment fail as well. In the interruption, Trebejahr made her way to the front row for a little meet-and-greet with the fans. After a few minutes, Hess was back in business and Acher ready to play – with only three strings. Trebejahr, smiling, announced the song – 40 days – and added, “so we start once more.” And they did. By the end of the more melodic numbers in the encores, a little after 11, there was no more frosty distance between fans and band. The cool veneer that both crowd and band were affecting seemed to break with bass and synthesizer, and those present felt free to laugh with the band and get into the last numbers. As the show ended, the club’s manager came onstage to invite everyone downstairs – free – for Avant’s afterparty surprise for the band. Lali Puna was wrong if they thought their second appearance in Moscow should be their last: by the end of their show everyone was clamoring for more.
Sine qua non. The club manager began Saturday’s show by thanking fans for their support – without which, he remarked, there would have been no Lali Puna in Moscow. Indeed, Saturday was a night of unexpected conditions. Though they played an amazing set, without their three-stringed finale the cool fans would not have left as certain about their love for this cool band. After both band and fans laughed and danced through the encore, the post-gig priority was clear: hang out with the members of Lali Puna and listen to some more independent music. Turning down post show interviews in order to “have a beer and watch the show,” Lali Puna was met by an enthusiastic crowd who pushed forward for autographs and photo-ops, and shared their compliments in a mutual foreign language. “Your music… in my life…” offered one adoring fan, tracing a large circle in the air with his hands. “I understand,” returned Trebejahr. If doting fans are the condition for sustaining true independent music, it is only when that music strikes a chord. Saturday night’s Lali Puna show transformed both audience and band from aloof observers to pleased participants. True? Independent? For 600 rubles it was definitely good. |
|
|
|
|
| 700. | Doctor Zoil & Monsieur Blumenberg (Italy)
|
Doctor Zoil & Monsieur Blumenberg (Italy)
What's two months in Moscow to most Muscovites at the start of winter?
Some say it's not even a warm up of what's to come. Others claim it's just a trial in mental preparation and will. And then there are those who feel as if two months in a city like Moscow is more than anyone may need for a lifetime.
For me, setting foot off that Aeroflot flight from New York at Sheremetyevo airport, only knowing how to say, da, niyet, spahseebo and pohzhalusta, and being 22 years old, after two months, everyday still feels like the first.
So, when expat.ru asked me to review Doktor Zoil and Monsieur Blumenberg at Cafe Keks, Saturday night, November 20, I didn't think twice about it. I hailed my first solo gypsy cab in Moscow and after some very broken and very pathetic haggling (in Russian of course), I found myself on the slick, orange, dimly lit street of Timura Frunze where I walked straight into the back lounge of Keks to find the Italian "bastard break beat" duo of Doktor Zoil and Monsieur Blumenberg eating, drinking, and talking to friends before the concert.
In true Italian fashion, the two were friendly, open and easy going to talk to, not only about their new Riviera Boogie project which they are currently promoting, but also about their interests and inspiration as musicians.
When asked about musical styles and where Riviera Boogie originated, Monsieur Blumenberg (also known as Chicco Montefiori) replied, "This particular one
(style) is bastard break beat...we like 60's and 70's soul...it is a mix of this, funk and bossanova...we were on the island of Capri when the idea came to us." With a nostalgic smile, Doktor Zoil added, "Capri is perfect...the weather, the food, the ambiance, just perfect."
While Capri may be the spot for inspiration, both Monsieur Blumenberg and Doktor Zoil agreed that Caf? Keks in Moscow is the ideal venue for playing their music. "This project works best in small clubs," Doktor Zoil said, "We like to see the girls dancing to
our music, and Russian women are just beautiful."
Russian women weren't the only ones doing the dancing on the compact dance floor. Everyone seemed to pack it in as the two played their eclectic mix of sax, flute, and bass combined with funky beats and energetic voices. Not bad for one of their first concerts with the new project.
However, Doktor Zoil and Monsieur Blumenberg are no strangers to the stage or the city of Moscow as they have performed here countless times over and plan on returning. "There is a great energy in this city and in the people," Doktor Zoil said, "It is always a pleasure to play here."
"And to be here," I smiled and silently thought to myself. |
|
|
|
|
| 701. | Click
|
Click
Directed by Frank Coraci. Written by: Mark O'Keefe, Adam Sandler, Steve Koren. Starring: Adam Sandler, Kate Beckinsale, David Hasselhoff, Sophie Monk, Christopher Walken. 107 min. USA.
By Matt Siegel
Review Top Sheet: Adam Sandler plays a shlubby working stiff with a heart of gold whose wishes for a quick fix for his existential angst are answered in the form of a universal remote control that - get this - really controls the Universe. I would love to be able to say that hilarity ensues. In reality, though, what ensues is a sorry procession of fart jokes and scenes of dogs humping stuffed animals, leading our hero to realize that what really matters most in life isn’t money or fame but rather the simple joys of familial domesticity.
Also, there are a lot of jokes based on 1930’s-era racial stereotypes, but not in a post-ironic way, more like in a post-post-post ironic way, which my flat mate (an Oxford grad, no less) tells me is the point at which something stops being ironic and becomes merely embarrassing. However, after watching this film I am prepared to say (and you heard it here first, if you’re thinking about stealing credit when it comes true): Adam Sandler will be the next Tom Hanks. However, the approximately 1 minute 30 seconds of the film in which this is apparent are not worth the 105 minutes 30 seconds of the aforementioned fart/bestiality humor that constitute its bulk.
Will you like this film?
Yes if: You loved that horrifically precocious little girl who used to appear in the Pepsi adverts, and think that fart jokes are really, really funny.
No if: You are 14 years or older.
Maybe if: You’re into dogs humping stuffed animals. You know, in that way.
Comments: Click is a typical example of the new, “grown-up” Adam Sandler film. While Sandler’s classic characters were pot-smoking alcoholics (Billy Madison) or violence-prone oddballs (Happy Gilmore), Click’s Michael Newman is a hard working architect and family man with nary a vice to speak of, save the odd Twinkie. This follows a trajectory that Sandler has been charting since the release of 1999’s Big Daddy, from down-market clown to wholesome American everyman.
Click is a perfect example of the perils of a “down-the-middle” approach. By appealing to an adult market he abandons the raunchy humor that endeared him to an earlier generation of fans, yet the jokes are so juvenile that no serious adult will want to sit through the endless deluge of scatological humor. The jokes feel phoned in; the delivery of the one liners that used to be his forte falls achingly flat, ostensibly because he doesn’t seem to know to whom he is supposed to be directing them. Is he laughing with you or with your middle-aged father? Sandler’s special charm used to shine through in his ability to, with a nod and a wink, make you think he was speaking just to you, that you were sharing an inside joke. In Click, though, he comes across not like your obnoxiously witty pal, but more like that obnoxious guy on the metro who just doesn’t get why you don’t want to talk to him about “the rack on that chick there.”
After watching Click, it seems to me that the time has come for Adam Sandler to pick his poison: either he’s going to be your pal or he’s going to be your dad’s pal. This in-between stuff just isn’t working for anyone involved.
Out-of-five star ratings:
Story: *
Dialogue: *
Substance: **
FilmCraft: *
Story Comments: As mentioned above, the main plot point of the film centers around a generally likeable middle-class guy who, struggling to balance the crush of the workaday week with a (ridiculously hot and perfect) wife and two (horrifically precious) children, stumbles into a deal with the “you know who,” who provides him with a universal remote control that allows him to manipulate the powers of time and space. As things slowly spiral out of control he’s forced to learn a painful life lesson: how much more likeable and middle-class he has to become to find true happiness.
This is not a story that covers any creative ground that hasn’t been previously covered about a thousand times before, but to be fair, it does manage to retread that same ground in a relatively unimaginative and offensive manner. By the end of the film the moral of the story is painfully clear: as long as you’re married to Kate Beckinsale and can be happy with just being married to Kate Beckinsale, you too can have a wonderful life.
Dialogue Comments: I have to be honest: it’s so impossibly difficult to imagine that Kate Beckinsale would actually be married to a guy that looked like Adam Sandler that I couldn’t pay attention to a word that passed between them. I might as well have been in a coma the whole time they were together onscreen, except that I’ve heard that people in comas can actually remember some of the things that people around them said, so maybe it’s not an apt metaphor after all. No, wait, that’s actually not 100% true. I do remember that there was some embarrassingly trite phrase that they kept repeating to each other about how they would always be in love, but again, it was so unbelievable that it carries all the weight of a malarial fever-dream in my memory.
Having said that, Christopher Walken was, as always, a pleasure to watch during his unfortunately minimal screen time. His visual language of paroxysmal gesticulation, coupled with his dialogue, which was twisted into a awkwardly comic cocktail of mispronounced words and purposefully (?) mistimed syllabic stresses, evoke the memory of jazz greats like Dizzy Gillespie. If Dizzy Gillespie did fart jokes, that is.
And, to be fair, every word that drips from the golden tongue of Hasselhoff resounds with a glory almost too great for human ears. He did drive Kit and personally tear down the Berlin Wall for God’s sake. That has to count for something.
Substance Comments: Ok. Truth time. There is a point during the film, which I won’t reveal for fear of spoiling, during which I kind of misted up. Maybe it has more to do with my own failed relationship with my father than the actual substance of the film, but it kind of got me there for a moment, like one of those Hallmark commercials they have on TV where the kid comes back from his first year at college and hugs his parents and his dad chucks him on the shoulder and they go outside to play basketball and live happily ever after in the dull haze of middle-America, but not before his father gives him a greeting card telling him just how proud he is of his little boy who’s now become a man. It’s not exactly the stuff that great literature is made of, but it is good for tug on the old heartstrings, and that’s exactly what the self-consciously dramatic portions of this film are designed to do.
Having said that, I felt twice as dirty after succumbing to this film’s manipulation than any Hallmark advert I’ve ever seen. But then again, no Hallmark advert ever had Kate Beckinsale in it (to my knowledge), and she just kind of makes me feel dirty in general. You know, in that way.
Filmcraft comments: This film features perhaps the most disturbing use of digital effects I’ve ever seen. Anywhere. Ever. It makes those creepy Hoover commercials with Fred Astaire dancing with a vacuum cleaner from beyond the grave seem as comforting as warm apple pie on a Sunday afternoon. It makes the scenes with Jabba The Hut from the digital remake of Star Wars seem brilliant in comparison. It made me not like Julie Kavner (playing Newman’s mother), and, for the love of God, she’s Marge Simpson. Remember the plastic surgery lady from Terry Gilliam’s Brazil? Well, compared to Kavner she looks like, well, Kate Beckinsale.
Otherwise the direction and cinematography were relatively inoffensive, aside from the odd nausea-inducing rapid pan across the New York skyline.
A taste of the story: Suburban family man uses his newfound omnipotence to speed through traffic jams and view breasts in slow motion. Hilarity ensues? |
|
|
|
|
| 702. | Oui Oui
|
Oui Oui
Walking into Zheltoye More, the first thing that struck me was how much pink there was. The whole courtyard was submerged in neon pink light, which enhanced the pink roses that had been liberally strewn around. Geisha girls attired in pink silk kimonos proffered ornately carved miniature boats packed with succulent pink sushi, while display cases of pink china dolls lined up down one wall. The overall impression was that the entire room had been dipped in candyfloss, with the exception perhaps of the groups of models distributing free cigarettes, who were incongruously dressed as Greek goddesses.
This saccharine environment was created as a backdrop to a gig by curious Japanese trio Oui Oui. Put together on an ad hoc basis to play at fashion events and clubs, Oui Oui consist of two almost identical vocalists – Maki Nomiya (a former member of the slightly better known retro-popsters Pizzicato Five) and Rieko Teramoto, who are backed up by DJ Noboru on the decks. A true Renaissance man, DJ Noburo also does the girls’ matching hair and makeup. They’re not a group that I was familiar with beforehand, and given that the crowd was largely comprised of bull-necked biznezmen and their gamine, teetering 20-yr old girlfriends I doubt they had too many longstanding fans in the audience.
The event was however so well prepared that there was a palpable sense of excitement in the room when DJ Noboru strutted out on stage in his red velvet pimp suit. As he broke out the first tune (a remix of Buggles’ ‘video killed the radiostar’) the girls came on in identical kimonos, twirled their parasols and sang in shrill Japanese while performing a sychronised dance routine. The effect was total kitsch, and the trouble with kitsch is that, no matter how well it’s put together, it’s got as much substance as the soap bubbles that blow out into the crowd while Oui Oui perfom.
After a couple of very similar tunes the novelty wore off and the biznezmen went back to fumbling with their chopsticks and comparing ostentatious watches. Sensing this dissipation Maki and Rieko appeared to give up too, and spent much of the remainder of their set standing listlessly behind the decks while DJ Noboru cheerfully leapt around blowing a whistle.
Uniquely for a pop group, Oui Oui have yet to release any recordings. This is probably a good thing, since listening to their music for a protracted period of time was almost as painful as having to pay 500r for a drink at Zheltoye More’s bar. Despite this, I would definitely recommend checking out one if their infrequent gigs should you get the chance – the meticulously prepared surroundings made for an entirely unique event, and Oui Oui’s performance was original and entertaining… for ten minutes. So long as you concentrate on your sushi rather than the music you should have an enjoyable evening! |
|
|
|
|
| 703. | Les Hurlements D'Leo
|
Les Hurlements D'Leo
If you expect the unexpected and see where it may take you, then perhaps you are ready to experience the music of Les Hurlements D'Leo, the French sensations who invaded the stage of Moscow's B2 Club, Tuesday, January 18.
French, though useful in understanding some of their animated speeches and heartfelt words, is not a requirement. These guys are clearly more concerned with the musician's individuality and knowledge of their own instrument, not only to connect with each other on stage but more importantly with the audience who in turn catches this uplifting, self-confident electricity.
All pretenses seem to evaporate when watching Les Hurlements and you suddenly find yourself among a group who hasn't only come to hear mindless punk or "ska gypsy," music, two established definitions of Les Hurlements, you have entered a room where you will see, listen to, and feel a thoughtful, stylistically unique performance of complex highs and lows.
There is no escaping the "Frenchness" of it all which is perhaps the very core of Les Hurlements. Picture it: The trademark accordion plays its nostalgic carnivalesque tunes. The flag of three thick vertical red, white, and blue bands is draped across the black backdrop containing the words "La Republique de France en Russie." The girls upfront do the can can on the dance floor, and the people sitting at the elevated tables sip red wine instead of the usual club cocktails or beer. Luckily, there is always the boisterous shout of "DAVAI!" to remind you that you are still in Moscow.
Characteristically, each song begins with its melodic and slow overture as if the guys are just fine tuning and warming up their instruments for what is about to come. While each member radiates this punk sense of indifference and true spontaneity when the songs finally take off, during this seemingly calm start, there is a very professional, deliberate, and complete awareness over the group as if they are whimsically testing the air not only with the audience but more importantly, with each other. This may be one of their most impressive and expressive qualities which demonstrates the fact that they are no newcomers to the stage.
Once this equilibrium is found, there is no holding back. Most songs explode into a surge which inevitably rips through the room. Not only does each musician take on his own spirit and moves but suddenly the way in which he handles his instrument transforms into something of a special, almost intimate nature. Sometimes nurturing and gentle. Sometimes harsh and violent.
Overall, the performance lasts about an hour and fifteen minutes--nowhere near enough for fans who have just started to break a sweat and want to dance some more. When forced to return for an encore, not only does the band come prepared with shots of vodka and beer, they came with another 45 minutes of pure energy and commotion leaving themselves breathless, and the audience finally exhausted.
Scheduled to tour through Russia until the end of the month, there is no doubt that Les Hurlements d'Leo will go out with a bang when they return to Moscow for their final performance on January 30, at OGI but then again you never know what to expect with this eight piece French punk band and that's the way they like it. |
|
|
|
|
| 704. | Mouse On Mars
|
Mouse On Mars
Returning to Russia for their second time, the avant-garde electronic group Mouse on Mars hypnotized the crowd and left the house screaming for more at a packed B2. The show was incredible, and the Expat Site was also lucky enough to talk with one of the most intellectual and humble bands to ever come out of Germany. The members, Jan St.Werner and Andi Toma, took a break from recording their upcoming album to play an energy saturated set in Moscow, and their coming has pushed the club scene here one step closer to what it should be.
In case you haven’t heard their music, you may have a hard time imagining what exactly Mouse on Mars is like. Explained Toma: “There’s something going on with non-linear dynamics order from chaos. Trying to understand forms and structures, and building it all up. It's music that feeds the music. We don’t have a clue what music is, but it's so complex that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. Sometimes it just slips away.” In other words, Mouse on Mars can’t easily be put into any category. “Maybe there’s a file for what we do, but we don’t know” added St.Werner.
At midnight exactly Mouse on Mars took the stage. Hunched over their table, side by side, a cigarette dangling from St.Werner's mouth, they began their set with sounds like a distorted and undulating Moog Keyboard. For several minutes there was nothing but that particular sound of controlled chaos as the audience seemed to size up what would happen next. Booming bass frequencies swelled up from oblivion while Toma whispered and clicked into a small microphone. His voice came back from a sampler as crisp as a snare drum sonically and repeating hypnotically as a quick and spontaneous drum line. True to the bands philosophy, their set at B2 was pure experimentation; a manifestation of music as stream of consciousness.
They performed standing over a single table that overflowed with samplers, synthesizers, drum machines and a laptop computer all wired together into a swirling mass of synchronization. Their first song ended as ethereally as it had begun. They didn’t play their way through a predetermined set, but simply let the sounds take shape and evolve spontaneously. When I had asked if they felt that their music was more intellectual or more emotional they responded that ‘life is physical and immediate and the music is about that. We don’t really compose, we just let things out… our music is immediate.’ What this meant for the audience was a set not of songs in the traditional sense, but of a process of trying to take in the building, layering, progression, and regression that the band spontaneously creates.
The music of Mouse on Mars was unique in its honesty, and the mostly young and male audience demonstrated their intellect by cheering for encores that kept the show going until just before two in the morning. The impressive sound system at B2, one of the best in Moscow, did the music justice throughout all of its sonic u-turns from scream to whisper, low-pitch to high, and the visuals projected behind the band were mesmerizing. A hip audience, a daring band, and a great venue made for the type of concert that Moscow needs to see more often. |
|
|
|
|
| 705. | Captain Comatose
|
Captain Comatose
Enjoying the beautiful weather in the courtyard of Art Garbage on Friday evening, I was standing in the corner waiting for a friend when two exuberant characters spilled out of the building and started motioning to the crowd to make there way towards the stage inside. When your correspondent failed to respond immediately by running inside to secure a front-row position, a sinister character toting a bucket of champagne grabbed her by the hand clearing up any confusion by showing her the door to the stage. Clearly the show was about to begin. And what a show it was!
Captain Comatose, the duo of DJ Snax from New York, and Khan from Berlin treated an enthusiastic crowd to a truly spectacular performance- or should I say spectacle. Captain Comatose are not your run-of-the-mill house DJs. The duo prides itself on its interactive performances - they like to bring the party to the people.
Jumping into the crowd at several points, walking across tables, and even joking with the stone-faced security guards - the performance was pure fun. As Khan says, "We're definitely a disco band, in the true sense." Snax cites his influences as DC go-go and 80s R & B, both of which are very performance-oriented.
In fact, the group at points was more reminiscent of the Village People than house music, with a construction hat replaced by Khan's paper Burger King crown and Snax looking disco fabulous sporting a 70s Afro hairstyle.
Khan and Snax opened with Mr. Monkey followed by Comatose Captain. The energy level began high and only increased throughout the show. $100, a hit single from their most recent album, Going Out was tailored to the Moscow crowd as 100 rubles/dollars.
A sleazy mix of electro, disco and house, Captain Comatose fuses sounds from the different worlds of music into an irresistible groove that is only enhanced by the entertainment qualities of these talented performers. At points soulful, at others highly sexual, Khan and Snax quickly transition from one genre to another, with a lively house beat throughout.
The duo appear to be constantly upping the tempo on themselves, bringing something exciting and different to the crowd every minute. They seem to generate their own energy and radiate it to the audience, wading through the crowd at several points - thereby dissolving that imaginary line between stage and dance floor, artist and audience.
The energy and dynamism of Captain Comatose was as integral to the show as the music itself. The audience felt like it had gained entry into the studio of two rambunctious kids excitedly playing with their noisemaking toys - which ranged from the more traditional keyboard to a cow bell.
Not wanting to end even their own show, Khan and Snax invited all present to accompany them to Mio for their live DJ set later in the evening. Unfortunately your correspondent missed the second act from this energetic duo, but has no doubt that it was every bit as captivating as the first to which she was treated at Art Garbage.
Khan and Snax met in Berlin in 1996 when Snax was DJ'ing at a 3000 Fashion Show, at which point they realized that they were practically neighbors in New York City. They began recording together in 2000 and have made 5 albums together. In 2002 they relocated to Berlin, capital of electronic music, where they began their live act. |
|
|
|
|
| 706. | Hird
|
Hird
While atmosphere and ambiance are always crucial factors for the success of any art performance, they simply set the stage for what the audience has actually come to see. In this case, it was Swedish sensation "Hird" who traveled to Club Zapasnik, Friday, December 17, for his Moscow debut.
The setting was perfect. A low-key, somewhat hidden, off the main road Moscow night club in Kitai-Gorod. A small venue. A young Russian crowd. Everyone eagerly waiting and enjoying the usual after hour amenities of cigarettes and alcohol. A dimly lit room. Strands of sparkling Christmas lights hung across mantle-type bookshelves which housed countless rows of plastered head sculptures piled haphazardly on-top of one another. And an equally fitting, cozy stage made way for cool Swedish trio "Hird" to play their melancholy, electro, lounge-type, easy listening tunes and beats, but...
That's just it, but... Something was a bit off. Like a teacher with no lesson plan in front of a roomful of expecting foreign students, pencils ready, eager to learn, Hird seemed a bit unprepared for the youthful, energetic, always ready to let loose and dance to fast paced tech-no music Moscow crowd.
Don't get me wrong, it's not as if Hird was booed off stage, pelted with tomatoes, and sent packing back to their hometown of Gothenberg, by a bunch of rowdy teenage Muscovites upon their first note. Technically, everything was ready. All the ingredients were laid out. There were no glitches in sound, no confusion, in song order, nothing of that sort. It was just that things had a bit of a slow start as Christoffer "Hird" Berg encouraged the audience to dance when they were still skeptical and not ready which gave way to a "normalny" middle as the beer began to kick in and people made their way to the floor to sway to the dreamy tunes, and smooth exotic voice of Yukimi Nagano, which after a little over an hour made for an anticlimactic end where people were dancing but far from "going crazy" as Berg kept insisting. It seems as if "going crazy" to such relaxed, sweet melodies was somewhat of an oxymoron at that point. Or maybe Swedes just have a different definition of "going crazy." The question on my mind was, "Where's the khalinka in this place?"
In true Russian fashion, the 21-yr. old charismatic, baby-faced Hird was truly embraced and appreciated for coming to Moscow to share his personal work which has already been making a splash across Nordic countries and Japan, however, it may still a bit too green and lacking in versatility in such a fast-paced, still molding city. Perhaps a clear indicator of this came as Hird went back on stage for their encore performance announcing, "Now, we're going to play 'I Love You My Hope' again and I want everyone to really go crazy and dance this time."
As Hird said in referring to his music, "I don't like to define myself or my music as an artist...It would be a mistake to because then I wouldn't be open...this is why I keep changing." There is no doubt this Swede will be back for another round in Moscow to perform his already original, nostalgic tunes...hopefully, there will just be more of them. |
|
|
|
|
| 707. | The Forgotten / By J.Ruben /
|
The Forgotten / By J.Ruben /
A friend told me once before that if a movie runs exactly at the feature length of 90 minutes, watch out: it’s crap. At exactly 89? minutes, I guess I should have realized it sooner, as I don’t know who else among the total of 8 people in the theatre felt suspicious at the noticeable lack of trailers.
The premise follows: Telly Paretta (Julianne Moore) is a grieving mother, having lost her beloved 9-year old son 14 months ago in a tragic plane crash. This same incident also claimed the lives of eight other children, and has left an indelible mark on Telly’s life. She takes time off work, and her marital life suffers as well, and it’s no surprise that she’s seeing a psychiatrist to ease the burden of her loss.
Her psychiatrist, Dr. Munce (Gary Sinise), explains that she is confounding her life more even while treatment, suggesting that she is actually inventing a lot of the memories of her deceased boy. As time goes on, she starts to lose some valuables to remind her of her son, and so suspects Dr. Munce and her husband (Anthony Edwards) of collusion. Soon enough, Dr. Munce informs her of the big shocker: that her son was just a figment of her imagination!
In true big-budget thriller fashion, we realize that all is not what it seems, and we follow Telly and newfound ally in Ash Correll (Dominic West), another mourning parent who has gone through a similar experience. With the help of detective Ann Pope (Alfre Woodard), Telly and Ash piece together the complex puzzle that ultimately is far too much to swallow. SPOILER: Shhh… It involves aliens!
In what seems to be Hollywood’s over-reliance on twist-heavy suspense thrillers (we only have to thank M. Night Shyamalan for this), “The Forgotten” doesn’t bring anything new. Its hackneyed plot doesn’t quite live up to X-Files standards. What’s worse is that the characters seem to exist only for use within the actual movie itself, making it appear to Telly as if everyone she knows is involved in the grandest conspiracy scheme: a faithful yet doubting husband, a psychiatrist that you suspect knows more than what he lets out, a mysterious man that appears in key scenes, and an investigator willing to get to the bottom of it all.
I really can’t blame the filmmakers for this poor excuse of a film, as director Joseph Ruben seems to have done as much as he could with what would have been a better idea for a novella. He employs many overhead angles, just to add to the paranoia of being watched. He also uses a lot of blue-tinted hues in the overall look of the film, just to add to the somber mood, implying loss and despair. He also has a few beautifully-composed shots, particularly the repeating scenes at the playground. However, the film’s pacing could’ve been handled a lot better, as aside from an excellently directed crash scene, the rest of the movie – obligatory chase scenes and all – is a study in tedium.
I also can’t fault the cast, with particularly deep performances from critically-acclaimed actors Sinise and Woodard. Julianne Moore, one of the best actors in the business today, certainly does not disappoint. Her layered performance as the grieving yet relentless mother invokes so much sympathy that one just cannot help but wonder why her character was not in a better movie.
Satisfactory direction and performances aside, “The Forgotten” has nothing to offer a viewer who is expecting a thought-provoking suspense thriller, much like we have grown accustomed to. Frankly speaking, the story sucks. Unless you’re a huge fan of crash scenes or Julianne Moore, this is one to miss. Quite a forgettable experience. |
|
|
|
|
| 708. | Pink Grease
|
Pink Grease
Why did God inspire AMERICA to invent Rock-n-Roll?
So that skinny British boys would dance around in tight pants and eye-liner.*
"Pink Grease" is exuberant - and funny. Admittedly, glam rock/ tent revival tactics have been done before, but ain't it always fun! The whole band should come play in my hometown.
If they all can't make it, I'll stick to Front-man. Dedicated to prancing about stage and jumping over arched necks, this pale platinumed singer cuts a unique profile. He's lick-able.
Bass-boy appears extra-enthusiastic, liking to kick about the stagehand during his multiple scurries to restore mic-stand arrangement. The Hand preserves good humour by consistently knocking him back, taking out vodka bottles and cymbal stacks in the ruckus. Drummer just wears an expression of bland calm while catching the metal pre-crash and beating away.
Meanwhile Jimi Hendrix in lead guitar and light brown afro regularly jumps in and out of position whilst clicking thrift-store cowboy boots. Two absorbed electro-wizards more peacefully occupy their respective corners concentrating on colourful boards and duct-taped mini-synths. (Instead of passively reading further disaster description, why don't you click on www.pinkgrease.com and discover some zany creativity for yourself.)
Although the music exudes numerous influences, these infusions are well merged and the tunes sound fundamentally self-spawned. Quite an accomplishment in general, but notably here. Many musicians visiting Moscow stoop to render popular world standards in order to easy please a foreign audience. Not these boys. Concerning less sell-out-ish crowd-winning stratagems, Bass-boy chooses the high road of shouting Russian phrases and striving to convey complex messages in 'MATY'.
The audience itself starts out over ponderous, mesmerized by the bands antics and unsure of what to do to each other. But "Pink Grease" eventually works the crowd up into a steady paced enthusiasm, gleefully expressed in incessant insistence on an encore. Lacking by now Mister Percussion, Bass-boy conjures up from the masses none other than Phil - the fill in drummer Gorbachev, who makes it through two tunes before Bass-boy himself is forced to attack stated duty. Front-man jigs on an amp lost in this moment of artistic despair...
The spectacle is over and everyone goes to smoke a cigarette. Contemplating the essence of this young raw anomaly, I sombrely wonder if they are quite as slutty as advertised. The world is ever in need of lasting decadence and utter rejection of family values, so I pray to God there are not false prophets. You see, it's a pitched battle and the Baptists must be stopped.
*In fact, contrary to fundamentalist Christian doctrine, glam rock is the true telos of linear history and not a uni-polar world led under Bush family fascism. |
|
|
|
|
| 709. | Michael Mayer
|
Michael Mayer
Michael Mayer is a well-respected man in the world of techno and electro dance music. His Cologne-based Kompakt label releases 12”s and albums that receive general praise. The label’s so-called “minimal techno” or “micro-house” is considered a true heir to the legendary Detroit sound from the late eighties-early nineties, although Michael Mayer himself has categorized it as well as “just give me a 4/4 beat and from there anything goes”. The playful, cheery and down to earth manner in which he and his fellow DJ’s approach their music only adds to the appreciation: a welcome, badly needed alternative to big business superstar DJ’s and mega-clubs.
Kompakt also acts as a distribution-channel for numerous small independent labels and the combined efforts of this unique conglomerate allows for fresh new music virtually every week. Most of these productions are recorded with the dance-floor in mind, so when Michael Mayer, who in his own words is “a proud father of successful children” plays his sets, he obviously is making good usage of the Kompakt pool of artists. Nights with Michael Mayer behind the turntable tend to be exciting stuff, not in the least because he himself is the first one to thoroughly enjoy the music, which usually results in playing air-guitar and riding invisible motorbikes!! He is a much-liked guest in many parts of the world: The week before his performance in Moscow, he played in Switzerland, Portugal, Spain and Dortmund was already eagerly waiting for his return to Germany.
October last year Michael Mayer was invited to mix number 13 of the London based 'Fabric' international DJ series. For someone who has been active for almost two decades in dance music, his own recordings are somewhat limited, but “Fabric 13”’s appearance put his name as one of today’s most original DJ’s strongly on the map.
The album captures what DJ-ing is about: Great music for dancing people, but it is also typical for Michael Mayer that he considered the recording mainly to be an opportunity to bring 'his' labels to the attention of a broader audience.
Russia’s DJ Kubikov, with work released on Kompakt, invited Michael Mayer to play in Moscow. And no better location than the Phlegmatic Dog, next to the Kremlin and the Red Square where the last time that a German landed a surprise was back in 1987 when Matthias Rust put his lightweight Cessna in front of Lenin’s Mausoleum.
Michael Mayer played a 3 hours set, making it one of the most memorable “techverg” nights in the Dog’s history. A fakey fashion-tv loop that ran during the set on a screen above the bar appeared bleaker and bleaker with each track and soon no one was paying attention anymore to the Monte Carlo models of the year. It is always nice to see when an audience knows what it is coming for and that they are not disappointed. This certainly was the case this night. Turntable skills, pumping techno beats, humor, eclectic sound-effects ranging from ‘clicks’ and ‘bleeps’ to twisted voices and Scorpions-type of guitar loops, a full Depeche Mode (!) song, some gothic melancholy, pulsating basses and lots of good music: ‘Stop’ is not a word in Michael Mayer’s vocabulary and it kept everybody dancing for the full three hours.
Happy people and an upbeat atmosphere: What else could one wish for?
And yes: Michael Mayer was playing air-guitar while riding invisible motorbikes with Kubikov ultimately happy in the back-seat. |
|
|
|
|
| 710. | Refree
|
Refree
Colorful yet low key. Thoughtful yet spontaneous. Jazzy yet soulful. With so many delightful and obvious contrasts that simply blend together while performing, it's no wonder Muscovites keep receiving Spanish band Refree with open arms.
Fresh off the plane and fresh off sleep - as singer/songwriter/guitarist, Raul Fernandez, later admitted - the eclectic quartet first graced the stage of Club Avant (35mm) on Friday, December 10, for the first of two scheduled performances in Moscow. It would prove to be just the warm up they needed for Saturday night's gig at Kitaisky Lyotchik Dzhao Da. Dubbed by some critics as the "Catalan Radiohead," Refree seems to take on a more classical American rock style/jazz mix of its own.
Their storytelling, contemplative songs didn't seem to work as well under the cold blue lights on the bigger, slightly elevated, more distant Avant stage. However, their candid easy-going style, and well-composed smooth music between Spanish accented English explanations and jokes, still managed to get the equally eclectic and interested crowd of young and old Muscovites smiling, clapping and on their feet begging for more songs. Most of their music selection came from their album "Quitamiedos" and some from their latest album "Nones" including a cohesive series of highs and lows made clearly distinguishable through the melancholy keyboard and accordion, slightly reminiscent of the Doors.
This seemed to be more audible Saturday night at Club Lyotchik where the band let loose, playing freely in the compact living room-like setting crammed with chairs and people encircling the smaller, warm, dimly-lit stage..."the perfect setting" for Refree as keyboardist/accordion player Baldo later described it, "We definitely felt better tonight...we like to play in smaller venues with a closer crowd."
"People are different here [Moscow]," Fernandez explained, "You are naked when you play, it is more natural...It's different than in Paris or Barcelona where people are more accustomed to concerts and people need to know you to come...people here just come, knowing or not knowing...they are more happy." Baldo added, "There is a feeling of calm and peace when I come to Russia...people can find solitude here."
Perhaps it was the overall setting and attitude or perhaps it was the fact that this was the first place Refree played upon coming to Moscow 18 months ago as the first foreign group, band manager Maxim Silva-Vega stated, which gave them this sense of comfort and ease on stage. Which ever the case, there was no pulling the four off once they started at Lyotchik and there was no need to as the whiskey colas kept rolling, the cigarettes kept burning, and the crowd kept cheering. Though Fernandez would threaten the audience with announcements like, "Ok this is our final song," he was quickly and easily persuaded into another as the roomful of responsive Muscovites pleaded, "Niyet! Niyet!"
True to his genuine, open, soft spoken, poetic stage presence, Fernandez made it a point to share, "I think it's stupid when musicians go off stage and come back for a final song...if you want us to keep playing, we'll play!"
Even though the Barcelona-based group had to go back home to fine tune a few things on their new album, with such a positive, supportive response here, it may not be long before Refree will find themselves back in Moscow hearing those same enthusiastic Niyets of this past week-end. |
|
|
|
|
| 711. | Girl With a Pearl Earring / By P. Webber /
|
Girl With a Pearl Earring / By P. Webber /
“Girl With a Pearl Earring” is one of those movies that has a built-in audience, and rightly so. People who are at the least bit interested in fine art are usually drawn to pictures like this. When these people come to see such movies (and there have been many), they expect to see the artist and his/her tragic lifestyle, countless inspirations, etc. They also expect to see lavish sets and settings, and imagery that would remind the viewer of the artist’s body of work.
I have always enjoyed the experience of watching these kinds of movies, despite my admitted lack of appreciation for fine art. After doing some quick Wikipedia research to alleviate this deficiency, I found out that the movie shares the same title as the masterwork of none other than Johannes Vermeer, noted Dutch painter second only to Rembrandt in stature. Despite Vermeer and this painting’s significance however (it’s been called the ‘Mona Lisa of the North’), not much is known about him, the girl in this painting, or the circumstances surrounding its creation.
But going back to the film, I could definitely say that this is not a standard movie in this genre, even though it seems to begin like one. The opening shots reveal Scarlett Johansson as Griet, whom we all know to be the aforementioned “Girl”. Immediately we assume that she will end up in a torrid love affair with Vermeer (played by Colin Firth) and he will be driven to some sort of despondence, torn between the love for his muse, his wife, and his art. The typical movie of this genre would have focused more on the sensationalism of this supposed Vermeer character, and that would have been a mistake.
Luckily, the story stays true to its title character and her story, which was based on a novel by Tracy Chevalier and adapted for the screen by Olivia Hetreed. The story of Griet is simple, and really the whole movie just concerns itself with how she came to be this “Girl”. Her life as a girl with a penchant for art, servitude to Vermeer’s household then to Vermeer himself, and her subsequent release are just plot markers. Despite this simplicity, this movie is good because it works – because the production, direction, the characters and the performances are wonderful.
With a little of creativity, director Peter Webber achieves a lot. The unusual overabundance of makeup, the careful use light and shade in interior shots, and the picturesque landscapes saturated in soft colors all contributed greatly to make this movie seem more expensive than it was. The main characters were all very interesting, both due to a strong script and great actors to fill such roles.
Hollywood “it” girl Scarlett Johansson is near-perfect as Griet, if her only failing is the fact that she doesn’t look like the girl in the actual painting. Firth is also great as Vermeer, his portrayal of the brooding artist who loves his art more than anything else is captivating. Finally, the always dependable Tom Wilkinson does not disappoint as the sniveling sponsor Van Ruijven, even though it’s obvious that his character exists only to inject external conflict into the Vermeer household.
I enjoyed this movie immensely due to the reasons above, but above all I enjoyed it for the idealized moments that occurred mostly in silence. There was a scene where Griet looked at the sky to clouds of white and realized that they were, in fact, a combination of grey, yellow, and blue. There was another where she stares one of Vermeer’s works-in-progress, moving a chair away from a window – and thus prompting Vermeer to modify his composition – because she felt the subject “looked trapped”. Then there were the scenes of Griet and Vermeer happily mixing paint together, indicating that their common bond goes much deeper than their unrequited love for each other.
Lastly, the extended scenes of Griet posing and the final shot of the painting itself forced the viewer in a state of study and examination. The movie is filled with such quiet moments, an experience much like being in a museum and finding that certain piece that puts you in the same state. This movie will have a built-in audience just like others that have come before it, but where it succeeds is that in the end, it wasn’t about the artists or the work, but the love for the craft itself. |
|
|
|
|
| 712. | Nowhere to Go but Up aka Happy End
|
Nowhere to Go but Up aka Happy End
35mm
America Cinema
By Robert Lees
“Nowhere to go but up”, is director Amos Kollek’s first attempt at a romantic comedy and is a blatant money making exercise which hopes to cash in on the current popularity of French actress Audrey Tautou.
The story is simple: an aspiring foreign actress comes to America to make it big. She balances numerous of menial jobs while trying to fit in casting sessions and auditions. She encounters Jack, a screenwriter who is suffering from writer’s block. He watches her from a distance as she sleeps rough in his garden and writes a film about her. She gets the part in his film, becomes a star and then they fall in love. It has all the ingredients of a successful romantic comedy; a good story line and star actors, but somehow it manages to go badly wrong
The choice of Tautou in the role of Val Chipzik, an idealised French actress trying desperately to get her big break in Hollywood, is understandable. In the 2001 French hit film Amelie, she played the romantic waitress who tried to make other people’s dreams come true and in her English language debut “Dirty Pretty Things”, she played an immigrant trying to make it in a foreign culture. However in “Nowhere to go but up”, Tautou fails to live to the promise of her earlier films.
Even though “Nowhere to go but up” is a comedy it has to be plausible enough to get the audience to believe in it. At times it is too far fetched to be credible. As beautiful as Audrey Tautou undoubtedly is, it is unlikely that she would look that good if she really did sleep rough on the streets. Secondly when was the last time a successful Hollywood writer did his washing in a public laundrette? Do they not sell washing machines in the USA anymore?
There are a few mildly amusing scenes and the odd funny joke but there is nothing that makes the audience laugh out loud. Justin Theroux puts in a relatively good performance as Jack, the screenwriter, but is let down by some woeful dialogue and hammy acting on the part of Tautou.
Tautou however cannot carry all the blame for the failure of the film. The writers and casting directors must take some responsibility. The film is littered with a whole plethora of mediocre and clich?d characters played out with little conviction by a cast who realise that the film is little more than a vehicle for it leading actress.
In the supporting roles Jennifer Tilley cannot quite pull off the ridiculous part of Edna the lesbian ex convict poet. The same can also be said of Jenna Lamia whose performance as the slightly dopey wannabe actress, Sparkle, would have looked out of place in a school nativity play.
The Only Way is Up is a contemporary reworking of the 1961 hit, “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”. However this latest offering fails to rekindle the magic of the original. Where Audrey Hepburn and George Peppard had an alluring on-screen chemistry, Audrey Tatou and her co-star, Justin Theroux are entirely unconvincing. The earlier had a fast paced and witty script whereas the latter is unnatural and entirely predictable.
It really only succeeds in highlighting the limitations of its lead actress, Audrey Tautou. The success of the whole film ultimately rests on her and she is incapable of carrying it off. Her lack of comic talent is cruelly exposed. Where she was quirky in Amelie and so natural in Dirty pretty things, she appears wooden and forced in this latest effort.
If she wants to shed her ‘Amelie’ tag, Audrey Tatou will have to move away from these cloyingly sweet roles and until she loses her strong French accent she will be limited to playing immigrant roles. “Nowhere to go but up” is not one of her better films and if an entertaining romantic comedy is the order of the day, then it is best left alone. |
|
|
|
|
| 713. | Jersey Girl / By K.Smith /
|
Jersey Girl / By K.Smith /
Jersey Girl marks writer-director Kevin Smith’s first foray into conventional cinema. At the risk of sounding harsh, he comes up with, well… less-than-conventional results. In an effort to reveal to the world a kindler and gentler version of himself, he presents a mainstream family/romantic comedy which is undoubtedly sincere yet in spite of all of its melodrama lacks any true emotional impact. A note to long-time fans: sorry folks, no Jay & Silent Bob this time!
The movie revolves around the life of Ollie Trinke, played by Ben Affleck. The exciting early scenes depict Trinke as a guy who has it all: a hotshot yuppie publicist making lots of money and adored by many, while being happily married to a woman that looks exactly like J-Lo. But all good things must come to an end, however, and his wife dies unexpectedly during childbirth. The sudden loss and inability to adjust becomes too much for Trinke, and he ends up ruining his career in the process.
Flash forward seven years later, and we find Trinke living and working with his dad (George Carlin) as a street cleaner in a New Jersey suburb. He is basically stuck, having tried numerous times to resurrect his PR career with frequent trips to the city while working and raising his daughter Gertie (Raquel Castro). Trinke still hasn’t gotten over the grief of losing his wife and has remained celibate for years, until a conversation with candid video store clerk named Maya (Liv Tyler) becomes the likely catalyst for change in Trinke’s life.
We’ve all seen this kind of movie before, where the story was mainly about the main character and the circumstances and decisions that govern his/her life. The most notable example I can think about is Brett Ratner’s Family Man, which was also his first-turn into the genre (prior to this he only made action comedies). However, in comparing the two clich?-ridden movies, Family Man just had the right mix; Jersey Girl ultimately sinks in its own syrupy, cheesy, mushy mess.
Don’t let that deter you however! The performances were good enough to keep the movie going on pace. Affleck is surprisingly good, and his scenes with then-fianc?e Jennifer Lopez are great entertainment. In a departure of sorts, George Carlin plays the dad part so well you wonder if he’s even acting at all. Smith also might have found perfection in Liv Tyler, who plays the role of Maya with poise that only she could provide. Tyler contains all of the qualities that Smith infuses in all of his female leads – the sexual openness, emotional receptiveness, and flowery choice of language – and wraps them around her indelible charm.
The standout role of this movie however, has to go to the adorable newcomer Raquel Castro. Playing the titular Jersey Girl herself, she effortlessly steals absolutely every scene she’s put in. She’s probably the cutest kid to be cast in a movie since that bushy-haired nerdy kid from Jerry Maguire. Add the fact that she may look like Jennifer Lopez but can act so much better, and it’s easy to see that she has a great career in the making.
A film like Jersey Girl requires a great deal of suspension of disbelief, mainly because of all the clich?s that it relies on for dramatic effect. I mean, how many times in movie history has the main character faced a pivotal decision near the end of the movie, only to go on a mad rush back after realizing that he was wrong? Being a long-time fan, I simply have a tough time accepting the arrival of the PG-13 Kevin Smith, but I understand and commend him for his effort to present a movie that stands apart from his original Jersey Five.
It’s easy to see that this movie was meant to be a labour of love to his daughter Harley, and it will probably be the first movie of his that she’ll be allowed to watch. So if you want sappy family entertainment, you won’t be disappointed with this movie. But as for me, I’ll take his R-rated Chasing Amy instead, thank you very much. |
|
|
|
|
| 714. | Dialogues des Carmelites / Francis Poulenc /
|
Dialogues des Carmelites / Francis Poulenc /
In Helikon Opera’s searing new production of “The Carmelites”, the nuns are “bowled” to death…
Only someone with a mind as sick as Dmitry Bertmann’s could devise a way of increasing the horror at the end of “Carmelites” – with a group of nuns going willingly to the guillotine during the French Revolution. I ought to say immediately that this production is extremely “classic”, and does not relocate the action in any other time or place.. for the most part. But instead of showing us the guillotine itself, Bertmann shows us the ascending staircase which leads to it – and as nuns disappear off the upper end, the officers of the Revolutionary Guard aim bowling-balls down an alley at skittles. As zany as this idea may sound, the reality is a nightmarish ending to some of the finest work to be seen on any opera stage anywhere. This is truly a “definitive” production of the work.
The Tulubieva/Nezhny designs and costumes work superbly, on this infamously tiny and ill-equipped stage. A simple descending staircase is clad to reveal only head-to-shoulders window-slot, which opens to reveal the Sisters, and whose opening forms the shape of the Crucifix. The nuns are simply and identically dressed – the Revolutionaries appear in metallicised pseudo-period dress, apparently smeared in blood. There are – apart from the bowling-alley – no gimmicks or tricks, this is simply marvellously-directed theatre, in which the interplay of characters, and the personal development of Sister Blanche are foremost.
Vladimir Ponkin conducts a hard-driven performance that counter poses singers against heavy slabs of sound – Poulenc’s orchestration is an unforgiving accompaniment for the vocalists, yet Ponkin finds enough respite for them. Seamless playing of the highest quality emerges – won’t someone please find funds for a proper orchestra-pit at Helikon?
For the Russian premier, Helikon come up with true “luxury casting”. Any who feared that Blanche is too low-set for Tatiana Kuinji soon put those fears aside, and her interpretation of the role is stunning. She socks-out the chest-voice passages with aplomb, and makes a credibly annoying and judgemental zealot. (Natasha Zagorinskaya, a heavier-set “dramatic”, sings the role at some performances).Outstanding in the cast is Ksenia Viaznikova as Madame de Croissy, the old Prioress – the death scene in which she curses God himself for making her die of cancer was terrifying in its dramatic intensity, and superlatively sung. In this production it’s strongly suggested that Mere Marie (Svetlana Rossiyskaya) is poisoning Madame de Croissy. Mere Marie not only escapes with the Priest (Anatoly Ponomarev) but is seduced by him too. Fine performances amongst the other nuns came from Alissa Gitsba as a serene and rational Prioress, and a heart-in-the-mouth performance from Marina Andreeva as the simplistic Sister Contance. Nikolai Dorozhkin (Chevalier de la Force) and Igor Tarasov (his father) complete a faultless cast, along with Dmitry Kalin’s powerful Commissar.
Bertmann spares no emotions – the nuns are ritually defiled before their execution by having their heads shaved (some live on stage), and the Producer has prevailed on almost his entire cast to shave their heads for real for the performance. So, the bowling… the guillotine-blade operates as a hatch-cover, and as it rises and falls, bowling-skittles appear behind it. The balls – are they the heads? – of the nuns come hurtling out of delivery-tube from another hatch. Gruesome, mesmerising, and phenomenal theatre. Bowling-alleys notwithstanding, the sight of the shaven nuns, stripped to their underwear, assisting each other up the slope to the gallows was the tear-jerker that hit home throughout the audience, and the curtain came down to tumultuous applause. |
|
|
|
|
| 715. | Finding Neverland
|
Finding Neverland
By Ryan Macalino:
The story of Peter Pan and his adventures in Neverland have fascinated many in the last 100 years, and have gone through numerous revivals and revisits. “Finding Neverland” gives us another angle from which to view this story, one through the eyes of its creator, Sir J.M. Barrie. Based on a play by Allan Knee, the movie begins with the words ‘Inspired by True Events’, thus immediately suggesting to the audience to treat this as a biography – a magical one at that.
The setting is London of a little over a century ago, in 1903 where a theatre is set to show Barrie’s (Johnny Depp) new play. Already a well-known playwright by this time, Barrie is nervous at the sight of so many ‘serious faces’ in the crowd, sensing that they will not be satisfied with this new production. After disastrous results, his friend and theatrical impresario Charles (Dustin Hoffman) implores him to produce something new that will satiate the appetite of his more sophisticated audience.
Barrie thus retreats to his typical leisurely walk through Kensington Gardens, where he falls upon a newfound source of inspiration. On what becomes a serendipitous occasion, he makes the acquaintance of recently-widowed Sylvia (Kate Winslet), the mother of the brothers Davies – the kids who would later be immortalized as Barrie’s inspiration for Peter Pan’s followers, the Lost Boys.
The innocence of the Davies brothers and the strength of their imagination awaken something latent within Barrie. To the delight of the ailing Sylvia, Barrie immediately befriends them, providing the fuel for his imminent creation in taking writing breaks amidst games of make-believe with the children. Among them, he develops a special affinity to Peter (Freddie Highmore), who seems wary of Barrie’s intentions, suspecting him of trying to replace his deceased dad.
“Finding Neverland” has three main dynamics which would have an effect on the creation of Barrie’s Peter Pan: his relationship with his wife (Radha Mitchell) versus his newfound kindred spirit in Sylvia, the meddling of others into his connection with the Davies family, and most importantly, his interaction with his Peter. In effect, Peter seems to be Barrie’s opposite – whereas Barrie relishes in the innocence of never-ending childhood, Peter seems to have abandoned this, instead wanting to be treated seriously like an adult.
Adapted for the screen by David Magee, the surprisingly modern script focuses primarily on Barrie and the motivation for his opus. Magee’s Oscar-nominated adaptation is mature, and wisely avoids any nuances of what could easily be Hollywood fodder in exploring either an adulterous or pederastic subplot in Barrie’s life story. In addition, Marc Foster’s masterful direction allows us to see this story unfold with what seems to be Barrie’s special, self-contained way of seeing the world – his ‘Neverland’. Reminiscent of the literary works of Gabriel Garcia Marquez or Paulo Coelho, Barrie’s life seems to have reality and magic intertwined, but not merely as a source of escapism but also of inspiration.
Barrie’s life story also benefits from the actor portraying him, in another stellar turn from Johnny Depp. While the rest of the cast delivers, Depp shows that he is deserving of his Oscar nomination. His performance is extraordinary; once again he proves his range and the care he puts into his craft. He imbues Barrie with a gentleness that makes the whole story believable, and carries Magee’s script with the proper sensibility. Add to this his flawless Scottish accent, and he becomes Barrie.
Unsurprisingly, “Finding Neverland” is billed as somewhat of a ‘feel good movie’. And while the elements are in place to make it as such, some viewers might not agree after seeing an all-too-real final scene. This is understandable, as it is still the filmmakers’ responsibility to wrap this biography as neatly as possible, without taking too many liberties with the script. This does not at all take anything away from the pure brilliance of this film, and if anything it adds to it. In effect, by movie’s end, we are reminded of the life’s beauty through its fragility, and the importance of unlocking one’s imagination – one’s own Neverland.
16.02.05
By Sara Sly:
Despite Johnny Depp's charisma and qualifying good looks, the actor's true appeal lies in his clever choice of roles. The essence of each human creature Depp plays shines through a blank slate of body and movement while a fantastical ambience whirls about them both - actor and character.
Perhaps Depp's choices reflect something quixotic in his personality. Edward Scissorhands, Ichabod Crane, Raoul Duke of Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, Captain Jack Sparrow, George Jung of Blow, Dean Corson of The Ninth Gate - all radiate a defiance not only against particular asphyxiating environments, but against the mentality allowing surroundings and societies to smother beauty. When watching Depp be these characters, do we not sense their disdain for the mundane and accompany them in retreat from the vulgar into a realm of ethereal morality?
In Finding Neverland Johnny Depp is James M. Barrie, the Scottish playwright who created “Peter Pan”. Barrie is an extraordinarily imaginative man whose contrast to those about is well marked. Everyone around him speaks in muted high society English whilst his lilted tongue sticks out. His social pattern does not quite conform to the respectable. When his wife turns a house cold and distant, he retreats to a room of glowing ambrosia. Down on his luck in the realm of public applause, he must begin to dig deep for redeeming inspiration.
Having sat in search on his customary park-bench, he hears a noise from beneath. It is the murmuring of someone’s little brother imprisoned for being just that – a little brother. That afternoon, Barrie makes the acquaintance of Peter, Jack. George and Michael Davies with their mother Sylvia Llewelyn Davies. The developing relationship between the six protagonists is delicate and dreamy. The boys are caught in the crux of child and adulthood, Sylvia suffers from a terminal chest cold and Barrie must deal (not deal) with a deteriorating home situation. However, together they manage to find warmth and caring elsewhere lost. Floating in the little world they make, the children gain a male role model, Sylvia finds a friend, and Sir James Barrie discovers “Peter Pan.”
“Peter Pan” taps into a theme of eternal appeal. It isn’t only a story about growing up, it’s also an admonition to retain a touch of innocence and fiercely guard that flashing imagination even as an adult. In Finding Neverland, this message is twice as deep. Not only do we recall the spirit of the play itself, we watch as Barrie and the Davies form their own difficult reality into one more beautiful and tender. Although no one can resist the sound of adventure, lofty passions, and noble deeds, most people can’t actually run off and follow the horn. What people CAN do, however, is learn to use imagination and kindness to create inner worlds of dear friends and family that illuminate melancholy or tragic environs. They can do this successfully even despite severe disapproval from society.
In sum, I advance the proposition that Johnny Depp is aware of the importance of fancy as a weapon in the war against the absurdities of over-realism. I bet the role of Sir James Matthew Barrie appealed to his sense of hallucination and he likes the misfit glow underlying the film flow. I also move that Depp likes producing messages rich with colorful mischief and glimmers of altruism. That and/or he is a cunning image businessman who knows that people will never tire of purchasing products that seduce the imagination. You see, the consummate public seducer knows that no one can resist the lure of promise and vicarious escape from triviality. Con artist, politician, and rock star types for example, remake themselves into the embodiment of an heightened reality, a place where people can join them to have it all, defend the fatherland, or sing well. Well, who knows what Johnny Depp is up to. I prefer to believe that he has a lovely soul and refined sensibilities. What you believe is up to you. |
|
|
|
|
| 716. | Collateral / By M.Mann /
|
Collateral / By M.Mann /
The word is ‘slick’. Director Michael Mann gives us a taut script, beautiful cinematography, and excellent performances from his main actors, both acting against type. Michael Mann’s execution of this film is even slicker than the killer-for-hire Vincent’s execution of his victims.
Lacking a title or opening credit sequence, the movie begins with various images of living in the city of Los Angeles. This is where the film immediately asserts itself as a different type of action movie, very far removed from its Hollywood cousins. Most of the movie is shot in digital video, and the early scenes are perceived to be small and mundane but made very surreal. It is in this world of the beautifully ordinary that we first meet Max, played by Jamie Foxx.
The story takes its time, but never drags. In these first few scenes we really get to know Max, and understand that he’s a true good guy, albeit somewhat stuck in a rut. Having worked as a cab driver for 12 years, he’s learned a neat escapism strategy: when things get too stressful, he looks at a picture of an island in his visor and ‘takes a vacation’. The movie then progresses into one about turning points. Max meets the acquaintance of a seemingly unimportant character in Annie (Jada Pinkett Smith), and instantly clicks with her. Max’s life could have taken a different direction at this point.
But another turning point for Max arrives, in the person of Vincent, played by none other than Tom Cruise. It is at the point when Max lets Vincent in his cab that he’s made the unwilling participant of Vincent’s contract-killing spree. As deliberate as the movie’s pace was in the beginning, it quickly builds up its tension with each person Vincent assassinates. Unfortunately for the timid Max, he’s already given his island postcard to Annie, so the escapism strategy just wasn’t an option anymore. He will have to face Vincent sooner or later.
The performances in the film were superb, particularly by Cruise and Foxx, both playing against type. Foxx was great as Max, a breakthrough performance that showed signs of emergence in “Ali”. Giving such a sensitive and winning portrayal, it was hard to believe that only 10 years ago, this was the same guy playing Ugly Girl in “In Living Color”. Even more captivating for me was Cruise playing the stoic Vincent. This marks the first time that Cruise plays the antagonist, and he does it very well; he still carries the cool demeanor of the character while exhibiting his usual charisma. I was rooting for the bad guy the whole entire movie.
The interplay of the actors was great too; they had a chemistry that translated very well on-screen. This was the make-or-break factor, as the characters’ chance meeting was supposed to be a turning point for the both of them. Vincent was leading the life of a lonely hit man, a professional that hides his deep psychological scars by doing his job with obsessive proficiency. He lives in the moment; not yet having come to terms with his past, he is willing to die in the next second. On the other hand, Max is one who has never taken one drastic measure, preferring to exist in his routine and dream about better days. It’s fairly easy to see that in the movie universe, such characters were destined to meet.
In the latter half of the movie, there is a very beautiful scene where Max stops the cab abruptly to let a lone grey wolf pass. Max and the wolf stare at each other, while Vincent is equally paralyzed. Mann’s skillful direction establishes the point that it is this connection that keeps their destinies forcibly intertwined – Max has responsibility over Vincent’s survival just as Vincent does with Max – the turning point for the movie itself.
Mann treats the movie very meditatively, miles above his work on “Heat”. For example, the American city has never been filmed with such romanticism and elegance; Mann and his cinematographers make you think that Los Angeles has its own emotions. And also just like in “Heat”, Mann handles this more as a drama. While he still has the familiar action-thriller elements are in place, he presents a very beautiful and very thought-provoking film that forces you to imagine yourself in each of the characters’ shoes. Both of the main characters undergo a sort of catharsis that we are made witnesses to. In short, Mann makes us care about them, no matter what life they’ve lead, no matter what fate will deal to them at movie’s end. Very slick indeed… |
|
|
|
|
| 717. | Be Cool
|
Be Cool
Directed by: F. Gary Gray. Written by: Elmore Leonard (novel) Peter Steinfeld (screenplay). Starring: John Travolta, Uma Thurman, Vince Vaughn, Cedric the Entertainer. 118 mins. USA.
By Sam Gerrans
Review top sheet: take a “Pulp Fiction” burger, slap it in a “Nutty Professor” bap with a slice of processed Britney Spears and there you have it: “Be Cool”.
Sound hard to swallow? It was.
But if you take it for what it undoubtedly is – a very silly film – you might enjoy yourself.
I did.
Will you like this film?
• Yes, if: you’re in the mood for something untaxing and are prepared to sacrifice both plot and theme on the alter of some pretty good one-liners
• No, if: you’re writing your doctoral thesis on symbolism in Proust and like to listen to Brahms and solve complicated chess problems to relax
• Maybe, if: you ever wondered how a Quentin Tarantino film about Britney Spears might turn out
Comments: this film is the dramatic equivalent of junk food. Yes, it fills you up, but you just know it’s not doing you any good. But what the hell!
This is a comedy and – hey – it’s funny. There are some really snazzy, off-the-cuff one-liners which must have taken hours to polish to a languid, liquid sheen.
Just don’t take any notice of the plot. It’s silly and loses focus. This can be justified to some extent by the fact that it’s a comedy, but don’t sweat it if you stop knowing (or caring) what’s going on.
There’s nothing to be gained by finding out.
Out-of-five star ratings:
• Story: *
• Dialogue: ***
• Substance:
• Film craft: **
Story comments: I loved the first ten minutes. They seemed to auger a quick-fire dialogue-based comic drama requiring brains. But it quickly re-aligned into a quick-fire dialogue-based comic drama requiring no brains at all. Well, fair enough, but it shouldn’t have got me all worked up.
The main course is a ludicrous rags-to-riches, girl’s-dream-come-true story draped over a pretty funny bad-boy Black gangster fashion parade.
The pace and development of the story has an interesting quality to it. It doesn’t peak or trough. It just is. And that’s how rap music strikes me. It has no beginning or end or shape. It’s a potentially infinite state rather than a self-contained and self-resolving episode. And that’s how this film is. You could come to it halfway through and hook into the experience as deeply as anyone who’s been there since the start in a matter of seconds.
This quality is both an achievement and the film’s main downfall, since the story doesn’t so much finish as fade out due to time constraints.
Dialogue comments: this is not art. It is not a great film. It’s not even staggeringly crap. It’s a space for those desperately in need of vegging-out to park their minds for a while.
But there are some very cool one-liners which both lionise and poke fun at music underworld gangster types, and some great visual comedy.
I laughed.
Substance comments: this film has no substance. But then, it doesn’t pretend to.
Its only deviation from this highly commendable tack in the circumstances is that it tries at one point to wax lyrical about racism.
Hollywood is very concerned to see to it that Black Americans get a good press. But other kinds of racism are perfectly all right. Don’t believe me? Name two mainstream films which are genuinely sympathetic to either Germans or Arabs.
No, nor can I.
I will be prepared to take the high-sounding concerns seriously when I’m sitting here writing a review on yet another mainstream film which positively profiles American citizens of Arab origin. Or just one blockbuster release which examines the plight of the Palestinians.
Something tells me I’m in for a long wait.
Film craft comments: this a bit of a homage film. The director would really like to be Quentin Tarantino, but by some perverse quirk of Fate, he isn’t. But that doesn’t stop him peppering his film with Tarantinoisms.
But whereas Tarantino has a dark, litter-strewn basement side to his work, this film is all gloss and shininess and perfect teeth.
Personally, I prefer more litter.
A taste of the story: Chili Palmer (John Travolta) decides to take on the music mafia to get a young talented girl to the top.
Sam Gerrans is a freelance writer and translator: http://samgerrans.com. |
|
|
|
|
| 718. | My Summer of Love
|
My Summer of Love
Directed by Pawel Pawlikowski. Written by: Pawel Pawlikowski & Michael Wynne; based on the novel by Helen Cross. Starring: Nathalie Press, Emily Blunt, Paddy Considine. 86 mins. UK.
By Sam Gerrans
Review top sheet: this is a strong story well told.
This film is original, surprising and interesting with a haunting afterglow which stayed with me well into the next day.
It won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but if you go to the cinema to be enriched rather than distracted, I recommend you catch this one.
Will you like this film?
• Yes, if: you liked “Lost in Translation” or “Sideways” – I certainly rate both films very highly
• No, if: loud music, visual fireworks, plotless violence, Sci-Fi or horror are your thang
• Maybe, if: anyone you know has recently joined the Unification Church
Comments: this is the first decent film it has been my lot to review for some time. And good thing, too. I was getting tired of bitching and, happily for me, now I don’t have to.
But because of the nature of the film, there is a limited amount I can say without spoiling it, so I’m keeping this review short and my points general.
Pawlikowski has delivered a brutal, tender, insightful and humorous human drama devoid of sentimentality or political badgering. I enjoyed it a lot.
The first ten minutes appear amateurish. I wasn’t sure the director knew what he was doing. But perhaps the first ten minutes were shot first and he was just getting settled in at the helm of the project. So hang in there; it’s worth it.
Although set roughly now in time, it has a bare-shelved 1970s feel to it. The slightly jittery documentary-style camerawork is a bit unsettling at first, but I came away feeling that it wasn’t pointless pretentiousness – it really does serve a purpose. Just try not to sit too close to the screen if you don’t travel well.
Out-of-five star ratings:
• Story: *****
• Dialogue: *****
• Substance: *****
• Film craft: ***
Story comments: this is a compelling, strong story which focuses on three people and one small town. Yeah, this is blatantly the land of low-budget cinema. But it makes no difference because the script is great. Give me “My Summer of Love” over any of the multi-million dollar froth fests I have endured recently, any day.
While it focuses mainly on a girl from an underprivileged and potentially violent background and her intimate relationship with another girl, it doesn’t have a politically-correct, man-hating agenda to bore you to tears with.
The story oozes underlying conflict from every pore and despite its essentially dramatic form, the plot of this film will surprise you. I’ll say no more.
Dialogue comments: the dialogue is natural, vibrant and engaging. The two girls in the film, played by Nathalie Press and Emily Blunt, represent different ends of the social spectrum, but nowhere do we descend into caricature. Both are fully-rounded, convincing personas and both performances are first-rate. This film stands to kick their careers forward substantially.
The girls’ relationship – which is the essence of the film – is explored with tasteful insight, free of the shock-value prurience or agenda-driven badgering a lesser film would have concentrated on.
As a viewer, I felt complimented and impressed.
Substance comments: this film is about intimacy, the nature of belonging, and true (as opposed to fake) personas. It’s complex, fascinating fare.
Film craft: the feeling is a little stark – I prefer more sumptuousness myself, but if it’s a matter of this or more “Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy”, I’ll put up with the starkness. But since the story is so strong dramatically, we end up not noticing that we’re cut-price shopping.
The camerawork has a “realistic” documentary aspect to it in places. While not my cup of tea, it makes a justified contribution to the whole and helps make the most of limited production resources.
A taste of the story: Mona (Nathalie Press) is an orphan. Her brother Phil (Paddy Considine) has ceased running a pub and beating people up in favour of born-again Christianity. Effectively abandoned by her only living relative, Mona finds friendship and intimacy with Tamsin (Emily Blunt), a pretty and pampered rich girl.
Sam Gerrans is a freelance writer and translator: http://samgerrans.com. |
|
|
|
|
| 719. | Eagle-Eye Cherry (Sweden)
|
Eagle-Eye Cherry (Sweden)
I recall the early days when I was learning to play guitar, and the song “Save Tonight” was one of the first that my friends taught me. It was simple, catchy, happy, and best of all, girls just loved it…
Flash forward 6 years later, and upon seeing the Culture Picks section on this site and the subsequent press that came soon after, I just couldn’t pass the opportunity to cover this event. Just imagine the excitement I felt when I opened up the invitation – and discovered that I had a VIP pass – for a celebration where the guest of honor was one of my early guitar idols!
Upon our arrival, it would appear that the star of the night was actually not Eagle-Eye Cherry, but the venue itself. In the glitzy celebration which marked the 1st anniversary of the Hard Rock Caf? here in Moscow, good ol’ EEC was merely icing on the cake. Regardless, the good people of Hard Rock went all out: beautiful and friendly staff, balloons, ice sculptures, and free champagne and cocktails were a sight to see.
The atmosphere was wonderful, and the crowd was a great mix of sponsors, socialites, and people who were ‘just there for the music’. In fact, probably the biggest fan that night was one of the servers, moving from table to table selling flowers, not missing a single word in her lip-singing. Regardless, the unusual mix of people, Russian and Expat alike, made for a wonderful vibe that lasted for the whole night. And with all the merriment going on, it felt like a nice, tall ice-cream sundae…
With a Cherry on Top
This was an event mainly designed for the privileged, a way for them to get together, unwind, and maybe recapture the spirit and vibrancy of their youth. And in this regard, maybe EEC could be looked at as the poster boy. One can also take this literally of course, as he’s remained virtually unchanged in appearance since peaking in the Billboards of 1998.
The event was heavily covered by the media, and even some famous Russian celebrities were on hand. In what was to fill up EEC’s hour-and-a-half delay, many of these personalities took their turns on stage, representing TV, media, and popular music. Even the Managing Partner took to the stage, ending his turn with some visionary words: “Let’s all have a f*ckin’ great time everybody!”
Once Eagle-Eye Cherry and Co. went up, the atmosphere went from festive to electrifying. The dude was ready to rock, really feeding off the crowd’s vibe. Only pausing to change guitars, he progressed through each song with the same confident, radio-pop sound. Criticisms could be leveled at this guy for his fragile voice and simplistic rhythms, but he sure knew how to work a crowd. His easy-alternative style hit the mark with “Falling in Love Again”, as the song’s cheesy goodness was food for fans. To compensate for his vocal shortcomings, he performed “Don’t Give Up”, a slow-tempo rock anthem that had him playing off his band with great effect; so-so vocals, great backup.
Save Tonight
EEC’s stage magic hit its peak with this song, the obvious choice for a finale. This was where he took the night back, establishing himself as the true star of the show. At no time was the crowd louder and more animated, with many (including yours truly) happily singing on. Maybe it was the overall energy of this song, but EEC really gave it all he could. This was his baby, his claim to fame, his opus! The song was the climax, and I was reminded of my memories of practicing, listening to the CD with the track on repeat… And there in front of me was the man himself: Eagle-Eye Cherry, playing “Save Tonight” in all its humble 3-chord majesty! It was awe-inspiring.
Feeling drained yet wanting more, I joined the crowd’s ovation and pleas for an encore. The band was happy to oblige, finally ending with the rhetorical crowd-pleaser, “Are You Still Having Fun?” Just before heading backstage, EEC was eager to show his gratitude, taking bows and expressing his appreciation for the fans, repeatedly saying “I love you Moscow!” From beginning to end, the crowd loved him back.
Descending down the stairs of Hard Rock Caf? Moscow, I saw the “Happy 1st Birthday” ice sculptures remain strangely intact, seemingly unaffected by the heat and electricity of the party above. However, the event overall was a great success, if the sudden disappearance of event posters were of any indication. That very familiar song was still playing in my mind as I waved to the staff and thanked them before exiting… The people of Hard Rock and Eagle-Eye Cherry gave us all a night to remember. |
|
|
|
|
| 720. | Roger Dodger
|
Roger Dodger
Capable of verbally wriggling his way out of any situation, Roger Swanson (aptly nicknamed ‘Roger Dodger’) is a fast-talking, witty, highly intelligent wreck of a man who seems to think of himself as God’s ultimate gift to women. Yet Roger’s arrogant, jaded, reductionist view of the world reveals a lonely soul, whose apparent contempt for women is merely a fa?ade behind which his own insecurities can be hidden. Recently ‘dumped’ by his lover (who also happens to be his boss!) Roger is particularly bitter – not the kind of man you would want to take you on an intensive dating course for beginners! When his sixteen year old nephew Nick arrives in New York and asks him to do precisely that, Roger sees it as a perfect opportunity to re-inflate his ego, while young Nick desperately tries to lose his virginity. We witness the highs and lows of a night on the town in the company of two men with just one thing on their mind…
Dylan Kidd’s writing and directorial debut has provided us with a rare gem of a film: Roger Dodger is an unusual triumph, a refreshing amalgamation of a beautifully simple plot brought to life by well-played, well-developed characters, who skillfully deliver a clever and razor-sharp script. Shaky, hand-held cameras create a voyeuristic atmosphere in which the spectators feel they are spying on the action, to a degree that should have Woody Allen looking on with respect. This element of intimacy is taken even further however, as the audience becomes engaged in the thought processes and joins in the battle with the arguments, theories and so-called truths which the characters manage to construct or bring crashing down in accordance with the (varying!) levels of their morals.
Cambell Scott captures Roger’s essence to perfection: He portrays a repulsive character, yet manages to add an element of pathos in the underlying, unspoken presence of Roger’s insecurities. Although we would hate to meet a Roger in real life, we are somehow drawn to allowing him a certain amount of forgiveness, as we realise that his good looks, intellect and impressive wit could add up to an altogether more attractive package, if put to better use. It is said that the film only came into being after a chance encounter in a restaurant, during which Kidd gave Scott the script in the hope that he would read it. Not only did Scott read it, he ended up starring in and co-producing the film. The relish with which he assumed the project is obvious…and indeed, a pleasure to watch.
We must not underestimate, however, the talent of the young Jesse Eisenberg who plays Roger’s teenage nephew, Nick. This is another difficult role, brilliantly mastered: Angst, anxiety, naivety and youthful wisdom are all part of the course as we accompany Nick on his unusually testing voyage of discovery. Eisenberg covers a whole range of emotions in a role which must be (well, one would imagine…) very close to his heart. That mix of genuine talent and real emotion creates a believable character with which, if we look back to our own sex-obsessed adolescence, we can all relate!
And the female characters, well-written and beautifully played, are a satisfying counter- balance to the male psyches. The women (Isabella Rosselini, Elizabeth Berkley and Jennifer Beals) despite their secondary roles provide valuable insights into the misgivings and truths of the weird and wonderful ways in which the female mind works! The result is a more truthful lesson for the youngster Nick, but also an on-screen presence of the other half of the battle between the sexes. As far as the audience is concerned, this means there is something there for everybody: Male or female, single or attached, a great cynic or a true romantic, there will be someone you can relate to, and a few more recognisable issues than you’d like to admit to!
Roger Dodger refrains from using any of the usual crowd-pleasing techniques: There are no special effects, no explicit sex scenes (despite the subject matter!) no gun fights or high-speed car chases… but it’s 90 minutes of absolutely great cinematography, with real acting and a great script. You’ll either absolutely love or hate the ending! But for sure, it’s a brave and a rare film. Let’s just hope that Dylan Scott’s debut is a sign of things to come… |
|
|
|
|
| 721. | The Interpreter
|
The Interpreter
Directed by Sydney Pollack. Written by: Martin Stellman & Brian Ward (story); Charles Randolph and Scott Frank and Steven Zaillian (screenplay). Starring: Nicole Kidman, Sean Penn, Catherine Keener. 128 min. UK / USA / France.
By Sam Gerrans
Review top sheet: a competently made “movie of the week” toting a feature-film budget, this political and personal drama has more mileage in it as a terrestrial TV presentation than a big-screen event.
You will need to concentrate if understanding the plot is important to you.
Will you like this film?
• Yes, if: you liked “The Firm” – also a highly plot-driven Pollack film. Like “The Firm”, “The Interpreter” leaves you with an impression of having quite enjoyed the ride but not exactly sure where it is you’ve been
• No, if: you are an anti-globalisation activist and like to fire-bomb US embassies in your free time – there’s loads of subliminal NWO propaganda in here and if you’re alive to that sort of thing, it will get on your nerves
• Maybe, if: you are good at crosswords and like finding plot holes – you’ll have a field day here; personally, I couldn’t be bothered
Comments: what I liked about this film is that it has strong themes and the key relationship works well.
The backstory, the “politics” and the rest of what everyone’s getting hot and bothered about didn’t do it for me at all.
Out-of-five star ratings:
• Story: **
• Dialogue: ****
• Substance: **
• Film craft: ****
Story comments: if you look at the writing credits above, you will see that they use both an “and” and an ampersand (if you noticed without me mentioning it I suggest you get out more often). These two seemingly synonymous conventions have different and specific applications. “&” denotes a team working together. “And” denotes unrelated people re-doing each other’s work.
This story has one “&” and two “ands” and a total of five writers. At least three of these were getting copious notes from Sid – a majorly powerful director – and were, thus, very keen to please. Maybe the more so since you can be fired from a screenwriting project in Hollywood and not even be notified – even from one you dreamt up. The screenwriter is not an artist in American cinema. He is a service provider.
And because there were so many stakeholders in the plot, the end result – while calibrated to keep us engaged – suffers from a lack of personality.
“The Interpreter” is not badly written. It’s strong on theme and the key relationship – that of Kidman’s Silvia Broome and Penn’s Tobin Keller – worked for me. But had it not, there was not much else there to keep me interested.
If you want to keep track of the ostensible plot, get a jolly good night’s sleep first and take a notepad.
Dialogue comments: I like Sean Penn. He reminds me of myself in a really bad mood. When I watch him, I think: if I carry on frowning at people I’m going to end up looking like that. Then I try to relax my face.
But the guy can act. He makes being quietly belligerent and potentially psychotic look like the only really sensible life choice. The hard-nut shell and predisposition towards bloody and invigorating violence mark him as of Irish decent beyond reasonable doubt. But you just know there’s the wit and gentleness of a poet underneath it all, embedded in some remote crag. The interest is in watching it evolve into view. All he needs is the right occasion.
Which brings us to Kidman. Her character (Silvia Broome) is revealed by degrees, too, but her backstory was too convoluted for me to buy into. However, she delivers the package with the messianic certainty of a new cult recruit.
If she believes it, it must be true.
Substance comments: the story looks at grief, forgiveness, revenge, hope and disillusionment. Their treatment made up what, for me, were the interesting portions of the film.
All the pro-UN, pro-US isn’t-war-a-nasty-thing stuff (i.e. isn’t-war-which-the-US-doesn’t-currently-find-useful-a-nasty-thing) just grates on me. The idea that the US administration is more civilised or moral than the naughty African junta in the story is simply not borne out by reality. Try booking your next holiday in Yugoslavia, Somalia, Afghanistan, Iraq or in any of a wide range of Central and South American countries if you want convincing.
But, clearly, none of this is an issue for many people. If it were, the English-speaking world would simply withold its taxes. And a certain amount of political indifference will be an advantage for the purposes of enjoying the film under discussion.
Film craft: this is a nicely-shot film. The composition is great. But the edit does seem to assume that we are paying a lot more attention than we probably are after a long, hot summer’s day in a stressful and complicated city.
A taste of the story: political intrigue and deception unfold inside the United Nations, where a US Secret Service agent (Penn) is assigned to investigate an interpreter (Kidman) who overhears an assassination plot.
Sam Gerrans is a freelance writer and translator: http://samgerrans.com. |
|
|
|
|
| 722. | Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason / By B. Kidron /
|
Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason / By B. Kidron /
I’m not the biggest fan of chick flicks. I didn’t see the first Bridget Jones movie (“Bridget Jones’ Diary”), but counting myself as one of the many Russian-deficient cineastes in Moscow who are always starving for the next English-language movie to come out on theatres, I just had to make an exception. After all, with the sheer amount of advertising this movie received in posters, postcards, and billboards, I just had to give it a chance and find out if it was worth all the hype.
I’m very glad that I did.
It certainly was the biggest premiere that I’ve ever seen in America Cinema, one that made use of every available seat in the theatre. You can thank the massive amount of publicity of course, but you can also thank the strength of its built-in audience from the books and the first film. And besides, this movie was good, especially for a chick flick!
Set a couple of months after BJD, the movie continues to follow the life and happenings of Bridget Jones, played by Renee Zellweger. It’s a new phase in Bridget’s life, so it begins with a new entry in her celebrated diary. Having discovered true love with the man of her dreams in Mark Darcy (Colin Firth), throughout the movie she finds herself having to contend with Mark’s “high-flyer” status and social circle, all the while slowly losing the hope of him asking for her hand in marriage.
While Mark’s career as a Human Rights lawyer is quickly rising, Bridget is struggling with more degrading assignments as a TV journalist. She finds herself losing the battle in competing with Mark’s colleague Rebecca (Jacinda Barrett) for quality time, and is later sent off to Thailand to meet with Daniel Cleaver (Hugh Grant), her former boss and boyfriend. Laughs are long and loud in the Thai scenes, especially Bridget’s first time encounter with mushrooms… Magic!
Such as how it would be in a diary, Bridget’s life seems to progress in a narrative of episodic fashion, finding herself caught in one comedic situation after another. Depending on your experience in knowing people like Bridget, these situations can either be looked at as genuinely hilarious or hilariously genuine. In the midst of laughing at her creating many embarrassing moments for herself, I couldn’t help but feel sympathy for her misfortune and admiration for the way that she continues to plug away, despite her many obstacles and shortcomings.
The problem with this format is that each occurrence in Bridget’s life is actually just a plot device that perpetuates the story and acts as some sort of comedic/dramatic foreshadowing. Even the least sophisticated of viewers will realize the divinely inspired purpose of Bridget’s drug bust in Bangkok, and how the subsequent events will conveniently wrap it all up in one cute package worthy of the indefatigable Bridget. The Force is strong with this one…
Plot considerations aside, the film stands well from excellent direction, soundtrack, and performances. Even with the Mushrooms Scene, the movie manages to retain its hilarity without reaching “American Pie” standards. Credit director Beeban Kidron, especially for the ease in which uninitiated viewers (like me) can easily get immersed into this special world. In addition, the soundtrack fits flawlessly, provided mainly by female artists – augmenting Bridget’s strength in her femininity.
Finally, the performances were absolutely outstanding, especially from the leads. It’s cool to see Hugh Grant relish his return as the sniveling scoundrel in Cleaver, and Firth delivers yet again another masterful performance, this time as the fastidious Mark. Ultimate honors go to Zellweger though, for playing the title character in what seems to be a role made with her in mind. Her charisma easily shines throughout while playing the plump and plucky Bridget; one can easily see what makes her so especially desirable to these men, despite her intended unattractiveness.
Bridget is a girl who’s in her mid-30’s and hopelessly in love, the type of woman that exists strictly in the fictional universe. Indeed, if there were such a thing as a Bleeding Hearts Fan Club, she would be its president. I can sense in myself that the thing I found most appealing in her character was the thought that despite her numerous failures in the realm of love and romance, her indomitable spirit allowed her to continue baring her heart and soul with each romantic affair. This might not be a novel approach in romantic comedies, but certainly one made easily believable by the writing and performance of the Bridget Jones character. I had this warm and inviting impression throughout the movie, and I couldn’t help but sport a wistful smile even after the movie finished.
I’m still not a fan of chick flicks, but you can count me in as a fan of Bridget Jones. |
|
|
|
|
| 723. | Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow /By Kerry Conran/
|
Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow /By Kerry Conran/
“Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow” is a fresh and exciting new adventure – one inspired from the distillation of images and emotions of pop culture past, and presented to us through the use of modern technology. Depending on the age group of the viewer, this movie is one that will evoke feelings of wonder, enjoyment, and nostalgia. Experiencing all three emotions, I found myself eagerly awaiting what lay next, with the heroes setting forth to different destinations in pursuit of adventure.
Set in a stylized world of the 30’s or 40’s, the movie begins with newspaper reporter Polly Perkins (Gwyneth Paltrow), being summoned to Manhattan to investigate the strange disappearance of scientists all over the world. She soon finds the city under siege by giant flying mechanical robots, and a distress signal is sent to Sky Captain (Jude Law), one of the last defenders of the free world. Needless to say, he arrives just in time to save the day. It is soon revealed that Polly and Sky Captain (or “Joe” as she calls him) had something of a past. This tenuous relationship and common desire to solve the mystery is what fuels the rest of the story, having them gallivanting from place to place, meeting interesting characters along the way.
One such character is Franky (Angelina Jolie), the commander of a flying fortress and Joe’s ex-flame. Another is Dex (Giovanni Ribisi), Joe’s chief of technology and confidant; if Joe were James Bond, then Dex would be Q. They also run into a mysterious lady in black (Bai Ling), a martial arts expert with the ability to control the giant robots. This fantastical potpourri is incomplete, however, as it also has a mad scientist bent on taking over the world in Dr. Totemkopf. It is with this last bit that the filmmakers push the technological envelope, as the mad doctor himself is played by Sir Laurence Olivier – who died in 1989 – using old film footage.
The posthumous performance of Olivier definitely brings about the eerie feeling of nostalgia, but the cast is admirably able to pull off this feeling themselves, seemingly having immersed into other legendary performers of Olivier’s stock. Law is perfect as the swashbuckling Sky Captain, an Errol Flynn / Clark Cable composite sans moustache. Equally endearing is Paltrow, whose moxie and quirkiness reminds me of Katharine Hepburn. As per any fantasy, the other characters seem to be from another era, equally engaging amidst this world of flying fortresses and amphibious airplanes.
This stunning vision was an obvious labour of love from first-time director Kerry Conran, who arguably created this motion picture single-handedly. Having worked for years on his Mac to develop much of the CGI-stylized backgrounds, his original 6-minute demo became the basis for such a ground-breaking cinematic achievement. This could be quite an inspirational story for aspiring filmmakers, as we witness a vision that is the work of a true artist – one that is unadulterated by marketing gimmicks and product placements.
There’s a blurry sepia-tone feel to Conran’s CGI cinematography, one that blends well with rich colour and shade. He gets away with a lot of these golden-age filmmaking images, complete with radio signals that communicate with expanding concentric circles. I couldn’t help but chuckle whenever Sky Captain’s plane was in the air, flying over animated maps with compasses pointed North. The Shangri-La from my youth watching “Lost Horizon” also made a brief appearance, a 10-minute tease that was enough to let my imagination run wild.
However, despite all its cinematic qualities, the problem with this movie is simple: it is a tease. The movie has been compared to Indiana Jones, but whereas the Indy movies were standalones, this one functions more like an introduction. The characters are immediately endearing, but not enough back story or dialogue is provided to flesh them out. Despite the numerous fantastical settings, the characters never seemed to act any different. Compare this to Spielberg, whose repertoire always included a character-in-wonder scene… Remember “Jurassic Park”, where the tourists first see real-life dinosaurs? It’s a shame that none such moment exists in this film.
Despite this, what “Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow” lacks in drama and character development, it somewhat makes up for with pure cinematic exuberance and adventure. Dragging a wee bit in the beginning, it feels like a roller coaster just about to cross the high-hump for a deep drop. In all, it was a great first effort from Kerry Conran. The amount of CGI used probably rivals another movie in “Final Fantasy”, but unlike it, he takes this technology and uses it to fuel his vision and deliver pure fun. After watching this movie, I wished I could learn more about the fate of Joe, Polly, and the rest of this world of tomorrow. I guess I’ll have to wait for Sky Captain-2! |
|
|
|
|
| 724. | The Skatalites
|
The Skatalites
The Skatalites have influenced and incubated generations of Raggae, Ska and Rock Steady artists. The collective formed in the early sixties continues to transform itself and inspire admirers. The Skatalites latest incarnation performed at Club B2 last Thursday night.
Club B2 hosts class-acts on a regular basis (www.b2club.ru). The club is humongous but cleverly designed to almost feel cozy. Carousing the flights and secret rooms of the concert hall, one completely forgets about the activity bustling below in the Japanese Kitchen, Beer
Restaurant and Billiards.
The staff is friendly (some very), young and good-looking - much like the clientele. There was an interesting and unpretentious mix ranging from university students and tattooed types to Finnish businessmen. The most notable anomaly was a revelry of bald dudes wearing cotton button-downs and suspenders - the new fashion for true Ska enthusiasts.
Rushing into B2 off the drizzled streets of Moscow, I had to down a Johhny Walker (high in price but low in volume - standard) before hustling backstage to greet the greats. Honored to meet the masters of Ska, it was tempting to barrage them with common questions but
intuition and an attempt urged better.
Dangling unaware of occasion specific protocol, I resorted to the usual survival tactic - dilate pupils and smile. Amused, Devon James - veteran guitarist, picked up a camcorder and teased me with compliments. Thus, infused with courage, I could pose the first and most pressing question - "Who's Lloyd?" "Lloyd Knibb is sitting on the other chair." "He's an original." "He knows all the beats," they replied as he reigned silently and sure. Just then entered the other original Lloyd, Lloyd Brevett - bassist. Tall and thin with bright colors, ruby gold rings and long long dreadlocks, he was accompanied by a velvet-clad lady and the lovely Doreen Shaffer.
Forty years and still strong, I wondered how the collective could so successfully transcend space and time. "Some of us have been together since tender age." "We follow the drum beat." "All of our songs are hits." "It's Magic! When we play even the cripple – he gonna move." That last remark was made by the one and only Lester "Ska" Sterling. A charming alto earl in red shirt and black cap, he would nod off from time to time, waking up when elbowed.
Curious as to their attitude towards Babylon, I inquired if I could ask about politics. Ken Stewart - keyboardist and Bostonian, succinctly expressed his opinion on the recent US elections. But
when Lloyd Brevett proclaimed he don't have nothing to do with it, that he only care about the One Love, my written list of questions suddenly seemed even more mundane. There was only one thing to do - lean back and bask in the nuances of Patoi and Island English which swirled
around the room.
Devon James cut off the video recorder and offered a beer. "Don't go, we like your company," he chuckled. Oleg, the excellent waiter brought in a tray of exotic fruit, and before long Mr. James
and I began to reminisce about mangos, glass-bottomed boats and the pleasures of creation. As the performance hour approached, our conversation lulled to a soft alto sax merging with eager trumpet, joining Mr.Batchelor's rhythmic feet and sounds to create an impromptu jazz standard session.
Onstage, embraced by three tiers of bar and dance floor, the Skatalites brought an anticipatory audience to the fore by mixing intricate interpretations of familiar classics with famous raggae
renditions as interspersed by JAH! JAH! JAH! shoutings. Yes, it was truly sweet to indulge in the honey warm melody of "Sugar, Sugar" as sung by Ms. Shaffer. (Nothing like a tropical romance.)
Indeed, Vin Gordon, Karl "Cannonball" Bryan and the rest of the Skatalites did make us all in the concert hall, relax and move, shake, sway. "It's magic," I mused while noting the group's rich, gold tone. And then, just as if to echo that thought, the effervescent Lester "Ska" Sterling danced a happy jig while the legends launched into the night's last number. The lyrics of which flowed like this: "Oh, the stars shine above on our golden love." |
|
|
|
|
| 725. | Taylor Savvy
|
Taylor Savvy
Interview
“When you hear the name ‘Taylor Savvy’, what comes to your mind?” At his own interview, it seemed like Savvy was the one eager to ask questions. I responded by telling him that among other things, some press had pinpointed his angle as giving fun shows as a well-dressed and fashion-conscious performer.
Looking a little flustered but keeping his characteristically Canadian congeniality, he smilingly replied: “I see! It’s as if they took the name literally at first [tailor-savvy] and it just stuck… Well, I tried this for a while – going through shows with lots of costume changes – but I ran out of money… I mean, look at the way I’m dressed now. Doesn’t really look fashionable does it?” Indeed, tossing his scraggly hair and decked out in a wife beater tank top and black leather jacket, it wasn’t what I had expected; he seemed like a regular dude at a Ramones concert.
Asking him about his musical direction and prepared set for that night, he informed me of his musical dilemma: “I’d like to put on more of an intellectual show, but it should be entertaining. One can’t really fake an interesting and eccentric personality on stage, but if someone like your grandma can come to the show and enjoy herself, then that’s the focus!” At this point I was sold. I was excited to see what kind of show he was going to put on.
Concert
The Zapasnik /Art-Garbage crowd was an interesting mix of socialites, bohemians, and professionals. While the hall didn’t seem to be at its maximum capacity, it added a very pleasant vibe. The concert was being filmed that night, and the cameraman’s spotlight was lost among the multitude of other flashes from the crowd. Clearly there was already a budding feeling of excitement in the air when Savvy got on stage.
Savvy employed the use of a drum machine for the whole night, offering mostly simplistic beats with occasional changes in tempo. Apart from playing bass, he would often bang on a simple drum setup to augment the programmed drum sequence with offbeat breaks. He sang on all tracks (he actually had a set of printed lyrics by his side at all times), often with full vocal arrangements, and sometimes just by repeating the same key phrase over and over again.
He said earlier on in the interview to expect a few covers, and his unique interpretations met with delightful results. One highlight had Savvy bring out his bass to do a cover of Harry Belafonte’s “Day-O / Banana Boat Song”, marvellously done in classic 12-bar blues. Another such number was his use of the beat from Michael Jackson’s “Bad”, slowed down just enough to have him sing Craig David’s “7 Days”. Savvy’s bluesy and weary-sounding baritone delivery fit perfectly into this interpretation.
Savvy’s blues style was also used with full effect on his ode to alcohol, entitled “Drunk”, belting it out as if he was possessed by Howlin’ Wolf. I have to admit that despite the acceptable success of those ‘intellectual’ songs, Savvy’s strength lay in his pure charm and comfort on stage, not to mention his pure Canadian eagerness to please. Midway through he played a love song that used a hip-hop beat completed with a groovy bass line, him repeating the words “Hey little girl, I wanna be your boyfriend…” Simple as it was, I couldn’t help but find this reminiscent of Rick Springfield’s “Jesse’s Girl”, black leather jacket and all. It was an unmistakable hit with the ladies in the crowd.
Sensing the gradual change in the audience’s demeanor, it might have seemed logical to Savvy to make changes to his set – seeing some feedback from the crowd in the dance floor in the form of devushki, drunken businessmen, and expat breakdancers. By the time his finale in “Everybody’s Partying with Me” came on, his antics included turning his back into the crowd, howling animal sounds and pulling his jacket up, collar and all, as if he was making his best Dracula impression. This sounds quite ludicrous on paper, but was great fun to those who were present.
Finale
Savvy’s greatest gimmick came into fruition with his encore set, returning to the stage decked out with a blue garbage bag over his tank to sing a couple of ‘dance’ numbers. I was somewhat taken aback with what he said before the encore, feeling like my words during the interview were going to haunt me: “A lot of you think of Taylor Savvy and you think fashion, well, tonight I’m giving away my clothes for free!”
He took off the garbage bag; with it he wiped his face and armpits, and told the crowd that the most active participant would be awarded this ‘fashionable item’. I was very impressed at seeing how this performer could somehow manage to do an act that is preposterous and defiant, yet pull it off and make it entertaining at the same time. And true enough, he ended with a bang, even going down on his knees to the dance floor and crying out “Rock and Roll!”
And rock and roll we all did. It was a night of pure fun, perhaps a little less intellectual than Savvy had hoped, but certainly entertaining. It was obvious what direction Savvy had taken (or had to take), and the crowd loved him for it. At the end of the concert I thought that maybe my response to his question had something to do with his final act, but I chose to believe that this was the type of performance he’s always delivered. Intellectual or not, at least one person is happily coming home with a prize: a genuine blue garbage-bag-shirt from Savvy’s own personal tailor. |
|
|
|
|
| 726. | Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban
|
Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban
I haven’t read any of the Harry Potter books. In spite of this however, I have always enjoyed the movie adaptations and the exciting modern-fantasy world that they presented. This movie is no exception, and I can feel the temptation to read the books grow with each successive movie release.
This movie marks Harry’s third year at Hogwarts, and rumour has it that Sirius Black (Gary Oldman) had just escaped from Azkaban Prison with the purpose of killing Harry. In order to protect the young wizard, Headmaster Dumbledore (now played by Michael Gambon) enlists the aid of the phantomlike Dementors to guard Hogwarts. As in the tradition of the earlier movies, nothing is what it appears to be, and it’s pretty much expected that Harry will have to reckon both with Black and the Dementors. In the meantime a new teacher arrives in Professor Lupin (David Thewlis), who takes it upon himself to be Harry’s mentor.
On this third incarnation of the series, the Harry Potter world has grown denser, darker, and more mature. The three principal kid actors we met at the beginning of the series are now well into their adolescence: the once-pushover Harry (Daniel Radcliffe) now sports more menacing features, the always-amusing Ron (Rupert Grint) now has a voice that cracks with every line spoken, and the babe-in-progress Hermione (Emma Watson) continues to well… blossom. Add to this Draco’s (Tom Felton) further transformation into the blonde guy from the Backstreet Boys, and you wonder exactly how much Clearasil and CGI were used to keep their pubescent faces audience-friendly.
The style of direction has changed as well, now with Alfonso Cuaron taking over for Chris Columbus. Well-known for “A Little Princess” and “Y Tu Mama Tambien”, Cuaron draws from these earlier experiences and vividly paints a world full of the waning stages of youthful discovery and the beginning stages of teenage angst. His direction is dynamic, and in the opening scenes he establishes his style with long, insecure shots that hint at the teenage Harry’s anguish and growing power.
The director shows many scenes in the movie that are mainly dark but have a little comedy or horror mixed in. The scene with Harry punishing the guest via balloon spell and the ride scene where a magic bus almost runs over an old lady with a stroller has comedy that might be too dark for young or sensitive viewers. There’s also the much-anticipated game of Quiddich, this time played amidst a raging tempest and a horde of Dementors. The threats to Harry’s life increased to double-digits in this movie. This time around, there is definitely more thrill and less wonder.
However, children and fantasy fans should not despair… There are some great scenes that should make you smile and your eyes twinkle. One involves a majestic creature called a hippogriff, half-horse and half-hawk. With the help of modern technology, this scene reminded me of the magic I felt when I watched “Neverending Story” at a young age. There’s also one lengthy time-travel sequence that should astonish child viewers, the same way “Back to The Future” blew my mind so many years ago. These are my favorite scenes in the movie, and people in their 20s should find them worth the price of admission.
In terms of actors’ performances, everyone is in fine form. Viewers will still find it odd that Hogwarts students come from all over the world, while the staff continues to be composed of only established British actors. Michael Gambon adds another dimension to the Dumbledore character, and Alan Rickman seems to have a ball playing Professor Snape. The Harry/Lupin/Black scenes are gold, and it’s a shame that Gary Oldman – the titular prisoner himself – gets so little screen time. In fact, after his character’s revelation and subsequent time-traveling climax, the movie slows down considerably both in plot and pace. Even the Peter Pettigrew surprise seems superfluous by the end of the movie.
Alas, it’s evident that the Sirius Black storyline is only a plot device. Underneath it all, the true theme is Harry finally unlocking his power and believing his destiny. Whereas the other two movies only hinted at his potential, Lupin’s mentorship provides him with the confidence to realize it. The teenage Harry has now become someone not to be trifled with. Apart from Lupin, I’m quite disappointed that not enough time was given to develop the ‘guest’ characters. In learning more about them, the relationships would have been better represented and the tale better told. However, there’s no doubt in my mind that these ‘guest’ characters will be revisited in later stories, as they seem to play crucial roles in Harry’s world.
Overall, this is a good movie worth watching. Apart from the minor character and plot problems, I’m glad to see that the series is steadily progressing from child to teenage fantasy. The world of Harry Potter is getting darker, but the sense of wonder and discovery is still there. After this movie, Gary Oldman fans might be disappointed, but Harry Potter fans will not. If I don’t manage to read the books in time for the 4th movie, I’m definitely looking forward to seeing who’s next on Harry’s ass-kicking list. |
|
|
|
|
| 727. | Zuko 103
|
Zuko 103
Lilian V: “We just want everyone to dance and have a good time...”
The term ‘world beat’ is an old one, used so often that it has long branched out into smaller denominations. Speaking with Zuko 103 at Tinkoff during the interview and subsequently watching them live, I could see that ‘world beat’ definitely fits them to a tee. Based out of the Netherlands, the group has been touring many different parts of the world to preach their gospel of fun and dance. Largely Latin-influenced, their diverse musical backgrounds are evident in the music they play, and gets the crowd going with the music, regardless of what language the lyrics are in.
Let’s take a look at the nucleus. Stefan Kruger, a true world traveller, plays the drums and relishes in discovering many different new sounds. Stefan Schmid left Munich 15 years ago and was a classically trained pianist before picking up jazz and discovering Latin music, later branching out into programming and producing. Finally, Lilian Vieira came from Brazil with a deep awareness of classic Brazilian music, particularly in the Northeast where there is a dominance of rhythms influenced by African drums. Indeed, while Lilian provides the Portuguese-language content and vocals, she more importantly acts as the band’s muse – their source of inspiration.
Stefan S: “[A successful show happens when] the band plays well… A gig is a gig; no matter what, you do your best.”
They played well alright. The band played to inspired heights all throughout the evening, from beginning to end. The smell of White Widow hung heavily in the air, but it was never necessary. The band played damn well, and the crowd damn well enjoyed it.
In describing Zuko 103’s unique sound, these adjectives appear more than once: Latin, energetic, jazzy, funky, and groovy. The first song was a awesome, using all of the above adjectives as the testament of their refined music. The sweet sound of Lilian’s voice in Portuguese, accompanied by a perfect rhythm section and excellent percussion from the drum set and congo drums. The airy guitar announced the samba bridge, with the keyboards adding up to the build-up. Before you knew it, everybody in the group was jamming, playing full out. An excellent opening song.
The band soon also played a certified hip-shaker, with some audience participation fuelled by Lilian. The beat’s simplicity allowed the audience to clap along. It soon gave way to a hard bossa nova and then another samba number, and by this time the audience was duly primed, dancing at the Tinkoff. This was one happy crowd!
Stefan S: “Thelonious Monk is my own personal hero…”
It was at this point that the band decided to switch gears a little bit. The next song had three changes to their beat, switching not only tempo but the actual rhythmic progression. It was a genuine bossa nova track, but with a very jazz-inspired interpretation. I could sense that this was Stefan S.’ time to shine, and I was right. Needless to say, his jazz piano solo was outright incredible, with his own unique voice coming through loud and clear with the help of his keyboard. His backup and percussion were playing in fine form, too; a very strong performance.
The band then shifted into a Brazilian-style rhumba, which was probably the strongest number in the whole set. In what was the strongest in terms of audience participation, it was also the strongest in terms of the band’s playing. Playing with reckless abandon, the guys were absolutely amazing. The groovy shifting bass line just seemed to be icing on the cake.
With the next number, Stefan S. once again stepped up to plate, this time offering some crazy music that had me wondering whether the smell in the air had managed to affect me. His second piano solo was out of this earth improvising that sounded like space-age techno. It soon took off even further, with slow metamorphosis into some threateningly trippy programming. Different, but damn good.
Lilian V: “We want to tell a story… but not [have the audience] worry about the lyrics.”
For the rest of the show, the band played some more danceable tunes, featuring a faster beat and Lilian’s scatting and rapping like a Premiere League football announcer. The band later followed up with some drum & bass, starting ambient but later played to full effect, featuring some congo.
In an another delightful sonic experiment, the band played the lone love song in the set, having the beat quickly pick up then back again to a slow sedated affair. Lilian gave a very passionate performance in this track, making me feel like it was something truly personal that inspired her to write and perform it so. I didn’t need to understand her Portuguese lyrics, but in watching and listening to her performance, I totally got a feel for what she was trying to express.
The finale and the encores proved to be something else, Lilian recapping the names of the band members to a song more along the lines of a funky soulful R&B in the finale. The first encore went on the pulse of a heartbeat, going into some electro pickup and then fully maturing into Latinized trance. Finally, the second encore was outstanding, a groovy downtempo R&B call-&-answer, with Lilian providing the lead in the sing-along. What a terrific end to a terrific night.
Too often I’ve heard a song that is categorized ‘world beat’, but it loses that flavour from the parts of the world it’s supposed to have come from. Zuko 103 is something special; their music remains strongly tied to its influences from the past, while it progressively grows to the beat of the future. |
|
|
|
|
| 728. | Futureshorts Russia II Film Festival
|
Futureshorts Russia II Film Festival
As an infrequent moviegoer whose diet is primarily high budget, low quality Hollywood cinema, it is sometimes easy to lose the sense of film as art. Mainstream productions of true artistic merit are rare as powerful commercial forces pull directors towards the mass market. Any function of filmmaking, beyond simply the generation of cash, can be forgotten, firewalling innovative productions from the part-timer’s consciousness.
Two encounters with the big screen last week highlighted the point beautifully. I don’t know what possessed me to buy and then even more inexplicably watch “The Terminal”, a 90 minute attempt to patronise and irritate anyone unfortunate enough to be watching it. Perhaps it was the tempting familiarity of seeing Tom Hanks opposite Catherine Zeta-Jones or maybe it was a blind faith in the ability of Steven Spielberg. Whatever my excuse, it was a mistake, and as the timely credits rescued me from the early onset of dementia, I was left to ponder how my faith in cinema could possibly get off the canvas after this weighty blow.
The resuscitation job was carried out on Saturday as I traded in my night on Moscow’s tiles for an hour in the wind tunnel of fresh air created by “FutureShorts” at 35mm. In 60 minutes of quick-fire quality, this selection of short films had taught me more about originality and imagination in world cinema than a year’s free entry to any Odeon you could mention. Varying from a 10 minute animated aircraft safety announcement to 2 minute black comedy on the lunar landing and including almost every genre in between there was a dish for every palate in the packed auditorium to enjoy. Personally I found an agreeable flavour in almost everything on offer, a tribute to the quality control job done by the curator.
Opening with a comical French sketch entitled “I am a horse”, I was slightly concerned that the collection might have placed the emphasis on cheap laughs. Happily this proved not to be the case. This Gallic farce was followed immediately by an animation from Germany that took us on a runaway train through a valley of death to a star wars shoot out using a series of evocative old movie clips and imaginative sketching. Whilst with this, and a couple of other more abstract offerings, the themes were difficult to fathom, you could not fail to be impressed by the imagination and workmanship of the finished product. In general, however, there was a lighthearted feel to the selection. The English study of a boy who sends his deceased 80 year old best friend on a final journey on his scooter to cause havoc at the ballroom dancing before heading off into the blue yonder was certainly intended to warm the heart. If the groans of approval from the audience were anything to go by, it achieved just that.
If I had to choose a favourite, then the Japanese piece featuring a girl named Yuki would be my selection. Another triumph of imagination and novelty, the piece follows our heroine through a very short series of insignificant events. The innovation of the creators brings in a new, almost identical actress to take the girl’s character for every new movement she makes, each actress remaining on set, standing motionless in a continuous line. As the camera gradually pans with a silky smooth movement of the lens across the short slice of Yuki’s day that we have been invited into, I found myself hopelessly drawn into the scene, looking eagerly for the next move and wandering where this train was going to lead. One of the most captivating elements of the work is the chirpy Japanese pop song, perfectly selected to match the rhythm of the piece and adding to its irresistibility. With such a short time to hold the audience’s attention, music can be a powerful tool of the short filmmaker and other than a rather tedious study of an orchestral drummer it was used with great skill throughout.
As the selection above illustrates, the curator’s choices cut across not only disciplines, but also geographical boundaries. Films from Europe, Asia and America made the grade with those that included dialogue being subtitled in English since the festival had not simply been put together for a Russian audience. The collection is midway through a tour of London, Paris and St Petersburg amongst others, something that appears to have been made possible by the highly visible sponsorship provided by a mobile phone manufacturer. Happily translation devices were provided leaving the predominately Russian audience reaching for their earpieces like a visiting UN delegation when the dialogue kicked in.
Having the good fortune to find entertainment and enjoyment in a place you least expect it is a rare and satisfying experience. Neither too long nor too abstract, this introduction to film shorts was just such an event, made all the more gratifying by the contrast with my recent less successful dabbles with cinema. I have no idea how they survive, but that there are studios all over the world producing material of this sort of quality is a cause for celebration. Therefore my advice would be - when Hollywood dross leaves you feeling bitter, try a little something short and sweet. |
|
|
|
|
| 729. | Vive la Fete
|
Vive la Fete
Being the young and tender age that I am, I can honestly say that I managed to escape the embarrassing haircuts and unfortunate fashion escapades of the 80’s. By the latter half of the so-called ‘decade with no style,’ my musical appreciation had developed only to the extent that I owned a full collection of Kylie records (this was before she herself ‘grew up’!!) My only excuses for such uninformed purchases lie within the then widespread addiction to Australian soaps, and my own personal crush on Jason Donovan. Real musical talent and non-mainstream artists were still outwith my spheres of musical consciousness…that is, if one were to exclude the exploits of my older brother – whose near run-in with glam-rock fame has left me (and no doubt a few others!) scarred for life…
In effect, those two all-important decades ago, as I was battling with burgeoning hormones and somewhat questionable fringe levels, my aforementioned elder sibling was fighting his own unfair and losing confrontations with the Inner city record labels of that time. Curious and slightly concerned, I could only watch on in disbelief as the hordes of punks and Goths trailed up and down our stairs, making their music in his bedroom and bleaching their hair in our shower!
All this has long seemed to be a thing of the past …or so I thought until a night at Apelsin served to entertain a few ghosts of the past…
It seemed like a pretty average Moscow evening – lots of obviously well-to-do, well dressed youths at an event where both organizers and invitees were out to impress. A fashion show, a DJ, a drinks promotion and a raffle of a weeks’ test drive in an Austin Astra …yawn, yawn, yawn…until… Vive la Fete appeared on stage and provided a memorable climax to an otherwise unremarkable evening.
The event was co-hosted by the trading network E-life and JaLouse magazine. A Belgian kitsch pop band who prides itself on being alternative and non-commercial would seem an unlikely choice of accompaniment to an evening which promoted modern-day fashion and retailing, yet Vive la Fete and their unabashed allegiance to the outrageous tendencies of the 80’s have become the darlings of the fashion world. Their self-proclaimed ‘biggest fan’ is none other than Karl Lagerfeld himself!
Yet as Danny Mommens and Els Pynoo stepped on stage, the suave and sophisticated world of Chanel couldn’t have been further removed. Danny and the other musicians wore black tops and leather trousers and a quantity of black eye make-up that made even Cleopatra’s attempts look conservative in comparison. In stark contrast, Danny’s busty, long-legged girlfriend and main singer Els dazzled in a dress which made her look like a gyrating glitter ball on legs. As for her make up…well, if she was wearing any, it was impossible to spot under the huge head of bleached blonde hair which constantly covered her face. As the music started, her flailing head and limbs jerked into action, providing one of the most un-ladylike dances ever to be seen with such a body in a dress so short!
Els’ physical appearance could have been distracting if it weren’t for the power of the music. The guitars and synthesizers were cranked up loud and played with attitude. The electro sounds and keyboard melodies were varied, fun and convincingly 80’s except for one thing: The rhythm. Maybe this is techno music snobbery on my behalf, but I don’t remember the 80’s ever having such beats and basslines! And the vocals? Els’ voice has frequently been referred to as ‘seductive’, and it’s true that at times her emissions sounded close to orgasmic screams, but at others, well… imagine Lisa Simpson after a good inhalation on a helium balloon! OK, so she sang in French. That’s pretty sexy. And her performance was certainly passionate. But seductive? I have my doubts!! In any case, it was original, it took a lot of nerve to do, and involved more than a smattering of talent.
The chemistry between Els and Danny was obviously very strong. And it was clear that they were both enjoying themselves. In a particularly cheeky antic, Danny removed his guitar and leapt from the stage onto the roof of the Austin which was on display, much to the despair of the security guards. His only words of explanation were: “Sorry guys. But that’s a f***ing ugly car!!” Later, towards the end of the show, he grabbed some members of the audience onto the catwalk, danced with them, then handed over the guitar and the mic for them to have a little fun with! Vive la Fete performed songs from several albums, including the first ever single the pair wrote together (‘Je ne veux pas’) then finished on a winner, inducing more smiles and cheers with a cover of the 80’s classic ‘fade to grey.’ Nice one!
So maybe my brother and his weird and wonderful friends didn’t traumatize me as much as I thought. Or maybe Vive la Fete’s ‘don’t give a damn’ attitude towards having fun and making good music has reconciled me with my past. In any case, it now seems clear that some things are worth repeating no matter what decade we’re in. So may the words Vive la Fete be among them. Long live the party! |
|
|
|
|
| 730. | Vremena Goda Orchestra/Bulakhov
|
Vremena Goda Orchestra/Bulakhov
The Seasons Italian-Russian Festival in St Petersburg (& Moscow)
Italo-Russian Festival triumphs with new works, young performers and unusual repertoire.
By Neil McGowan
Innovative programming is a rarity in Russian classical music these days. The demise of the USSR (and its funding for the Arts) unexpectedly resulted in not more interesting listening, but less – now that orchestras have to be more-or-less self-financing, the same trend towards “Classical Pops” is happening in Russia as elsewhere.
All the more welcome, therefore, is the annual appearance of Moscow’s Vremena Goda orchestra in “The Seasons” Festival in St Petersburg – this year’s theme being Italo-Russian music.
The opening concert took place in the Great Hall of the St Petersburg Philharmonia – a venue which still requires some mental concentration to avoid calling it “The Leningrad Phil”. Viktor Kuleshov gave a dazzling account of Vivaldi’s “The Seasons”, playing all four concerti without a break. No less remarkable was the quality of string playing from the orchestra itself, honed to a fine standard by maestro Bulakhov – it cannot be coincidental that he’s a former violinist himself. The second half of the program was given over to Pergolesi’s Stabat Mater. The work itself is somewhat uneven, and the excellent chamber choir LEGE ARTIS didn’t really have enough to get their teeth into. The soloists are more generously provided-for – Svetlana Rossiyskaya was particularly stylish in the mezzo arias, although Giovanna Manci seemed a little unwell in the soprano pieces.
A highlight of the Festival was Tchaikovsky’s Souvenirs de Florence (op 70) in a spirited performance with Bulakhov at the helm. The last movement kicked off at a lick that seemed impossibly ambitious at first, but with careful pacing the adrenalin was still coursing through until the final bars, bringing plaudits from the audience that were richly deserved. Contemporary composer Mikhail Bronner’s “And tomorrow will be better than yesterday” (for alto saxophone, trumpet and orchestra) seemed a little over-extended, but was given a bravura performance by two soloists yet to reach the age of twenty – Sergei Kolesov (saxophone) and wunderkind trumpeter Kirill Soldatov (still aged only 17, but already appearing as a soloist both with Vremena Goda and Virtuosi Moskvy).
Another new work in the Festival was the piano concerto “A Game of Chess” by the exciting young Krasnoyarsk composer Irina Belova (b. 1975). It’s a remarkable piece which develops the tradition of the “soviet piano concerto” into something that is thoroughly contemporary, yet clearly acknowledging its legacy to works like the Khachachurian Concerto, and the Shostakovich Concerto No 1. Ksenia Ovodova (also from Krasnoyarsk) skipped through the phenomenal technical requirements of the work with ease and grace, and found the l Pounce, where are you? yricism lurking beneath the spikier surface. It’s a sobering thought that she’s only 14. However, Alexandra Elina in Sammartini’s Recorder Concerto displayed no lesser technical prowess – and Alexandra is only 9.
A complete change of medium and mood was offered by the Italian piano-duet brothers, Aurelio and Paolo Pollice. Personally I would have preferred their program presented in the reverse order? Their staggering rendition of the Stravinsky’s piano-duet version of The Rite Of Spring was a piece-de-resistance, but the first half made-up of lollipop items (primarily arrangements of Italian Opera numbers for C19th domestic performance) would have been better coming afterwards.
The vocal highlights finally came from Madama Manci, however, who offered a bel-canto treat including Tosti, Bellini and Verdi. The central item was the closing scene of Norma (Act 2), in which Manci was joined by Svetlana Rossiyskaya as Adalgisa – in the true spirit of an Italo-Russian festival, the combination of an Italian soprano with a Russian mezzo, orchestra and conductor produced a completely convincing and stylistic account which brought the house down. It would be unfair not to mention in the same program a super performance of the little-known Rimsky-Korsakov arrangement of “Three Arias from Glinka” for Chamber Orchestra, with a sparkling cello solo as an added bonus.
Muscovites unable to attend the St Petersburg part of the Festival had the chance to hear some of the highlights at a special concert in the Concert Hall of the Tolstoy Museum on 19th February, including Svetlana Rossiyskaya (this time partnered by fellow Helikon Opera soloist Marina Andreeva) in the Norma extract, the Souvenirs de Florence, and the Rimsky/Glinka pieces. Alexandra Elina had another chance to charm too.
Orchestra sponsors Gorodissky & Partners, and Festival Sponsors Optima-Invest are to be congratulated on a progressive policy of supporting new work and young performers that not only bucks the trend of “pops with imported stars”, but delivered artistic rewards in spades. The theme of the 2005 Festival is French Music – since French repertoire appears even less regularly than Italian in Russia, we await it eagerly. |
|
|
|
|
| 731. | Bowling for Columbine
|
Bowling for Columbine
Gun-nuts blasted - at point-blank range.
By Neil Mc Gowan
There’s nothing subtle about Michael Moore. In Bowling for Columbine, Moore tackles his topic head-on – why prevalent violent gun-related death (11,000 people die of gunshot wounds each and every year in the USA) is such an integral, and apparently acceptable, part of American life?
The film is not any kind of narrative retelling of the shooting of 12 students and one teacher at Columbine High School, in Littleton, Colorado – in a carefully premeditated attack. Instead, this is a pure documentary - there are no actors, and everyone who appears to comment does so as themselves, in their own words, voluntarily. Eric Harris and Dylan Klebold not only murdered their classmates, but laid a sequence of primitive booby-trap pipe-bombs around the school building. Having killed thirteen others, they finally shot themselves. The question WHY this would happen in quiet, American suburbia is the motor behind the movie.
Moore is an unashamed popularist, and anyone familiar with his TV work will know what to expect – ridicule and laughter aimed at those Moore holds to blame. Gags and gun-deaths rarely mix, but Moore pushes-out the boundaries to look at the overall approach to guns in the USA. Slapstick is his forte, and the Michigan North Country Bank couldn’t have tried harder to play his sad sap. They trace a newspaper ad for the bank – “open a new account, and we give you a free gun”, from a wide choice of models. More amazing than the offer itself is that the bank willingly allowed Moore to be filmed signing-up for the account… “What kind of Account? I’d like the one where you get the free gun, please”. Having gone through the rigmarole (“so this question means that it doesn’t matter if I am a psychopathic maniac, provided I have never been charged with a crime as one?”), he gets his gun: “OK, the first question is – do you really think it’s a good idea to give out guns in a Bank?”
He doesn’t, however, duck the serious side of things, and a sequence of longer interviews add both substance and structure to the movie. Littleton’s most famous son is Matt Stone – creator of South Park, (and the “Oh no, they killed Kenny!” line). Stone is more pensive and pessimistic in real life – he attributes the Columbine killings to an education system “in which you have to succeed, because if you slip just once, you are marked as a failure and you’ll wear that mark the rest of your life – you cannot climb back on. It defeats the whole principle of education as self-improvement”. Strangely the most moving interview is with Marilyn Manson. It seems almost impossible that the slender, androgynous evil-embracing Manson can reach common ground with the bearded, bear-like, klutzy do-gooding Moore in a baseball cap? Manson’s concern seems entirely genuine and not invented for the camera – he was held to have been responsible for putting the idea of killing into the minds of Harris and Klebold, who listened to his songs endlessly, including on the morning of their killing spree. But what else did they do that morning – that might have pushed them over the mental edge into psychopathia? They went… bowling? So could bowling be as bad an influence as… Manson?
Opposing voices, including the Gun Lobby, aren’t denied their camera-time either. It is true, of course, that a history of the National Rifle Association presented as a South-Park style cartoon (actually it is not Stone’s animation) is, perhaps, a little one-sided? Moore’s take on this is that they will do exactly the same, so he has a duty to make his point as sharply (and controversially) as they do. One stunt which he swears was not set-up, was turning up at Charlton Heston’s house (Heston is the President of the NRA, famous for the “pry it from my cold, dead hand” speech) unannounced, ringing the doorbell, and asking for an interview? Heston agrees, and gives a more guarded account of his reasons for supporting NRA viewpoints than he has done in public. He declines to discuss why the NRA found it necessary to stage a meeting in Littleton just days after the shooting, “even though the Mayor said “Don’t come here. We don’t want you here””.
But these are just the words. What Moore does superbly well is to use the big-screen medium to highlight the glamour, the sexiness, the allure of violence. He holds back the information that nearly half of the parents of Columbine High pupils work building Guided Missiles – until the right moment. His campaign to force K-Mart to stop supplying ammunition in its supermarkets (Harris and Klebold bought their ammunition from K-Mart) features too… as does a look across the border at Canada, where a similar society unaccountably has 90% fewer gun-related deaths?
The sophistry is faultless, and as a final fireproofing from attack, he dedicates the film to two other young victims of gun crime – Laura Wilcox, shot by a mental patient (how did he come to have the gun?) whilst doing voluntary work in her college vacation, and Herbert “Sluggo” Cleaves – the son of Moore’s personal friends, shot dead randomly on his porch by drive-by attackers in Flint, Michigan…Moore’s own home town.
The film is passionate; Moore’s view is clear, from the outset; he offers his opponents at least some chance for comeback; he propagandises, but he doesn’t preach. You will either love or hate this film, there is no middle ground. Psychopaths and gun-nuts – stay home and masturbate over gun magazines or something, will you? This isn’t the film for you. As the Mayor said - “Don’t come here”. |
|
|
|
|
| 732. | The New Tango Orquesta
|
The New Tango Orquesta
Brazil, Bandoneons & B2 - it all came together this week when Swedish smoochers The New Tango Orquesta appeared live in Moscow.
Think of the Tango, think of Brazil… and you think of rays of sunlight piercing the pristine northern birchwood forests, as elk meander through the conifers, and salmon splash in the… what d’ya mean, “no”? Yet strange as it might seem, the only remaining live group carrying the torch for “New Tango” don’t come from the rainforests of Brazil, but the pineforests of northerly Sweden.
And no one is more passionate about New Tango than NTO founder and front-man Per Storby. I asked this mohican-cut evangelist about the instrument that’s the heart and soul - not to mention the main melody-line - of New Tango… the bandoneon. “Well, yes, it’s kind-of like an accordion or concertina – a BIG concertina! It was invented in C19th Germany, to play the hymns in small Lutheran churches who didn’t have an organ, or couldn’t afford one. Sailors and missionaries took it to South America – where it immediately went straight into the whorehouses, of course! From moral superiority to moral depravity in one quick jump. Then it was taken-up into the tango orchestras, but with a minor problem… it’s such a bloody clumsy instrument to play, they had to slow the tempo of the tango down specially for the bandoneon players!” Per fell in love with the sound of the instrument from hearing records – “I just knew I wanted to play that sound!” - but only realised later that being clumsy to play was only half his problems. No one even makes bandoneons any more, and no one could show him how to play one either. A long search tracked-down an aged second-hand instrument, and he figured out the double button-boards for himself.
Almost all the material the quintet perform these days is original – but lurking in the background is the guiding spirit of the genre’s originator, the legendary New Tango king, Astor Piazzolla. Indeed, his spirit (the man himself died over a decade ago) took a posthumous turn around the stage for one number at B2 – a piece Piazzolla had written as a farewell present to his own quintet, when the time came for them to disband. “We were in Brazil last year, and doing the sound-check for our gig, when they told me that we had visitors – the relatives of Astor Piazzolla. When I said what we were going to play… well, you could see they were a bit uneasy about it! So we played it – just for them. At the end, there was a HUGE cheer, and I knew we’d passed the test” Per explained… with the faintest hint of a nervous tremor still lingering in his voice.
Sharing the melody-line honours for the ninety minute set was fellow Swede and violinist Livet Nord. Some of the material being heard was so new that it’s “work in development”, and doesn’t even have official song-titles yet. Livet’s soaring strings illustrated clearly what other critics have said openly – there are some strong overtones of classical and jazz in the NTO’s unique sound. One of her semi-improvised solos had a hint of the spirit of Vaughan William’s “The Lark Ascending” – with all of the brilliance, exhilaration and technical mastery stunningly turned-round into a wholly new form. In an unusual way the NTO are akin to contemporary classical ballet – steadfastly remaining true to a revered tradition, yet pushing the envelope in every direction. Another untitled number, unashamedly introduced as being influenced by baroque music, featured a multi-track playback of different strings, against which the live musicians added their own contributions. The audacious result makes a “new tango” out of the archaic form of the Chaconne – but here there are Chaconnes of all eras!! We start in the C17th, with Josef Kallerdahl’s sumptuous string bass establishing the bass-line, and slowly golden melody-threads begin to interweave between bandoneon and violin, suggesting Pachelbel or Purcell. Tomas Gustavsson wrestled to add delicacy from a somewhat thrashed-sounding piano but soon the genteel control of the “baroque” form gives way to an unstoppable wildness that fused ideas suggestive of John Adams “Shaker Loops” with orgiastic mayhem, as though the periwigged fops had cast-off their crinolines for a boozy bacchanal to Beelzebub’s doorstep… before slipping back, as if caught with their trousers down, into the delicate accuracy with which it all began.
Rhythmic drive in this percussion-less line-up was ably driven along by Peter Gran on guitar, whose seamless accompaniment was sometimes given special permission to solo. Especially welcome was a lunatic guitar-bass duet that galloped along like a Bach two-part invention after a very large spliff, which expanded to become a kind of “Tango Fugue” with melody lines being rapidly back-passed between the whole group like a skilful rugby team on a top-form attack. Even so, the classic sound of New Tango is more wistful and plangent, and this is how they went out. Storby’s self-acquired bandoneon style is uniquely vocal – he plays only on the “pull” strokes, pausing to close the bellows in a breath-like instant before playing the next line, with the poise and delicacy of the most heart-tugging and breathless chanteuse.
The whole thing was sweetly set-off by a lush warm PA system at B2, and superlative sound management. Apart from the barman who decided to use the ice-crushing machine during the slow double-bass solo, you could’ve heard a pin drop, and the NTO had the audience eating of their hands long before even half-way.
The New Tango Orquesta are: Per Storby – bandoneon, Thomas Gustavsson – acoustic piano, Peter Gran – guitar, Livet Nord – violin, and Josef Kellerdahl – string bass. They are appearing at the Red Club in St Petersburg before continuing their European tour through Germany and northern Europe – they also featured on Russian TV this week. They have a website at www4.tripnet.se/~storby. |
|
|
|
|
| 733. | Good Night, and Good Luck
|
Good Night, and Good Luck
Directed by George Clooney. Written by: George Clooney (screenplay), Grant Heslov (screenplay), Fred W. Friendly (uncredited). Starring: David Strathairn, Robert Downey Jr., Frank Langella, George Clooney, Jeff Daniels, Patricia Clarkson, Ray Wise. Japan/France/UK/USA. 93 mins.
By Erik Jansma
Review Top Sheet: Pioneering radio and TV reporter Edward R. Murrow and his team have a go at taking down senator Joseph McCarthy and succeed. True story from the times when journalists were ready to risk something. This is Clooney’s second movie as a director.
Normally, I hate movies with a message, as those messages are mostly personal, idealistic and unrealistic views on how the world should be. George Clooney fortunately takes a slightly different approach to getting a message across. The main character expresses his message and warnings in the past, half a century ago. Clooney skilfully tells us: we should have listened, but we didn’t…
Will you like this film?
Yes if: You don’t mind black and white movies and like sharp dialogs.
No if: You sponsor a TV show or not in the least interested in journalism or politics.
Maybe if: You were once an inspired journalist, but now do the fashion bit in a glossy.
Comments: You have to be up for a bit of thinking and a good discussion over dinner afterwards to like this one. After all, you’re not going to be presented with any luxury such as colour, action, babes and hunks. Moreover, you really have to pay attention.
The story is not very complicated, and basically puts Edward R. Murrow (the main character and hero) and his team in the position of Robin Hood and his gang of likeable, journalist rebels. Already from the first few minutes you can sense that this movie is no action-packed, suspense-filled blockbuster, but is rather trying to tell you something.
The movie at took up all of my attention and filled seats remained filled. The authentic footage of TV commercials from the Fifties that was featured on some moments in the movie added to the mood.
Out-of-five star ratings:
Story: ***
Dialogue: ****
Substance: *****
FilmCraft: ***
Story Comments: The key feature of the story is that it has happened for real. You will either have to know this from reviews, from your own knowledge or from being told so.
The story is introduced in a scene from present time (a speech conducted by the main character in 1959) and then flashes back to 1954, only to return to present time in the last few minutes in order to provide a conclusion and the inevitable message.
Dialogs in the style of Glengarry Glen Ross along with a mix of historic facts and footage tell the story that is actually not really much more than the good guys taking on the big bad evil senator against all odds. The story itself, though, is told in a witty way, and the sharp dialogs and ironic humour provide enough laughing material, without making the film a comedy.
I think the story supports the substance of the movie, as well as the general message that is actually quite serious. However, the movie doesn’t carry any obvious bias or overly moralistic contents. This is quite an achievement of George Clooney (generally known as an actor who gets his colleagues drunk at any given occasion), certainly counting that this is only his second movie as a director.
Dialogue Comments: It is obvious that the cast had fun making this movie and was well played-in. The dialogs are sharp and witty and are full of humour, irony and genuine concern. Which is exactly what they should be, as they make the movie.
In a story about journalistic integrity and, politics and censorship, a lot of philosophical questions can be asked. It was a good choice of the makers to use the dialogs to explore these questions, rather than applying an overly complex storyline.
Some scenes are clearly having rehearsed lines of dialog, but a lot of them seem to be improvised around the plot as well. Certainly some dialogs between David Strathairn and George Clooney too spontaneous to be scripted. The same goes for Robert Downey Jr. and Patricia Clarkson. But Downey Jr. proves that allowing for improvisation (or was it over-rehearsal?) is nice but too much freedom in dialog leads to mumbling.
Substance Comments: The movie is evidently a plea for journalistic integrity and demonstrates how a small team of professionals can make a change. The (real) footage of McCarthy shows that he was obviously too far-gone in 1954 to be a worthy opponent of sharp analysis and facts, facts, facts…
You can only tell so much in 93 minutes, and therefore some aspects to the witch-hunt and the society in which it took place, remain under-exposed in the movie. Actually, the society being the “See it now” audience and US electorate at the time is absent in the movie. Murrow and his team receive their feedback only by newspapers, bosses and the military office. At no point in the movie, the viewer will receive any first hand information on how the American society in 1954 perceived the witch-hunt and Murrow’s fight against it.
A possible explanation of why this public view is lacking may be an intention by the makers to let the movie viewing audience have some think about what is being laid out in the story. Once the senate finally investigates McCarthy, the movie shifts to the speech by Murrow with which it began. Murrow sends his message to the world, and then you realise that he did so half a century ago. It got me to think about how critical the news coverage nowadays is on issues that do matter and affect us all.
Substance that is relevant and triggers real thoughts is scarce in mainstream movies by mainstream directors. It is nice to come across a movie that does contain this sort of material.
Filmcraft comments: The film contains details. Using a black & white film obviously made the insertion of authentic material easier, but also makes sure that the viewer can more easily concentrate on the storyline and conversations, without being distracted by coloured details. It furthermore gives you the feeling of having an introspection into the 50s news coverage. It’s almost nostalgic.
At some moments, there is a scene of a lady singing slow blues ballads. Funnily enough, the lyrics of the songs (all love songs), seem to apply to the feelings of the McCarthy gang. Once Murrows and his team have decided to run the story that eventually will start the impeachment of McCarthy (a decision motivated by the threats of a US Military Colonel), a sweet, dark voice sings: “I’ve got my eye on you…” Same for the song “You drive me crazy”, after the attack on McCarthy has gone into full-blast modus.
Smoking, finally, adds a cynical touch to the movie. Murrows, always smoking on TV (and off TV), died of lung cancer. An original commercial in the movie will tell you the brand of smokes to avoid…
A taste of the story: Veteran journalist and his team take on a paranoid senator who likes to put those who disagree in electric chairs… They win. But did we? |
|
|
|
|
| 734. | Brokeback Mountain
|
Brokeback Mountain
Directed by Ang Lee. Written by: E. Annie Proulx (story), Larry McMurtry (screenplay), Diana Ossana (screenplay). Starring: Jack Gyllenhaal, Heath Ledger. USA, 134 mins. In Russian in Dome Cinema.
By Erik Jansma
Review Top Sheet: Epic love-story of two cowboys set in the depressing yet beautiful redneck state of Wyoming. Take a true story of a Pulitzer price winner, let two Western veterans make a screenplay of it, bring on two hotshot young Hollywood actors and let a visual magician mix it all up. Made for winning Oscars.
I walked out of the movie thinking I saw a good movie. The people I went with liked it too. Nobody left the cinema during the 2 hours and 14 minutes running time. Brokeback Mountain features stunning landscapes, a very good cast, nice music and everything else a movie needs to get nominated for many Oscars and winning three. You’re likely to join the straight and gay crowd praising the movie to heaven. I didn’t, because Ang Lee can do better and has done so…
Will you like this film?
Yes if: You liked “Memoirs of a Geisha”
No if: You liked “The Ice Storm”
Maybe if: You skip the last 20-or-so minutes
Comments: Brokeback Mountain was made for winning Oscars. It therefore keeps away from being all too critical and sharp. It contains no news, no controversies and is politically correct. The visual quality of the movie and the skills of the cast make this movie likeable. It is gay movie for the whole family, so to say.
It therefore is entertaining and certainly worth watching. You can keep up with the story easily and are even treated to a semi-optimistic ending. You will even feel good and slightly concerned after watching it.
Personally, I felt more than a bit let down, as I have seen director Ang Lee deliver better and more sincere films. And as Brokeback Mountain remains superficial, I can only conclude that The Academy and as many visitors as possible were the main motivations for making this movie. It’s just only a bit better than your regular blockbuster.
Out-of-five star ratings:
Story: **
Dialogue:***
Substance:*
FilmCraft:****
Story Comments: As already the film poster shows clearly, this movie is about two cowboys in love with each other. Obviously, this relationship comes with frustrations, longing, desperation and. The movie zooms in on some crucial moments that take place in a twenty-year period, updating the viewer on how nature struggles with nurture.
As Wyoming, USA, is presented as a pretty backward, redneck, boring place with awful summers and many sheep, you might expect that this just can’t end up in a “happily ever after”. Towards the end of the movie, things indeed have turned quite ugly and come to a climax in a scene that shows how brilliant an actor Jack Gyllenhaal is.
At this point, and for a short while afterwards, “regret” is written all over the movie and it’s characters. Pause and think of the final scenes of The Ice Storm, Ang Lee’s story of family self-indulgence in the 70s. Got it? Same thing here, but hold on!
From the moment where the end titles should kick in, along with a melancholic song, the movie continues endlessly, in search of a more or less hopeful, if not happy ending. Finally, it picks a previously under-exposed sub-plot and ties it in, in order to provide the movie with an artificial, bittersweet and hopeful ending. Handkerchiefs, please!
It maybe does the trick for the honourable members of the Academy and those sobbing reviewers who use the word “bittersweet” as a compliment, but to me this “plot twist” robs the movie of integrity and makes it just another politically correct and meaningless movie. I wonder if this makes the BAFTA like The Ice Storm did.
Dialogue Comments: The apparently limited vocabulary of Wyoming locals makes up for the sometimes inaudible gnawing that takes place. You will get enough chances to get used to it though. The first part of the movie doesn’t really have too much conversation in it and gradually, the characters become more talkative.
The dialogs define the characters in this movie. Heath Ledger’s character Ennis is introvert and he is sparing with his words. Jack, the more eloquent character by Jack Gyllenhaal is never short of words and is much more able to express himself. This is completely in line with how Jack takes initiatives and tries to enrich his life, one way or the other, while Ennis is and remains stuck between two lives.
There are some jokes, too. They aren’t too witty or cynical, which is no surprise if you look at the story and substance of this film. It may get some sniggering started in the cinema, but you won’t be rolling off your chair in spasms of laughter. It’s all very, very safe.
All in all, the dialogs are reasonably good as they fit the movie and serve the purpose of it.
Substance Comments: The movie is based on a short story that E. Annie Proulx wrote in 1997. A year after, a man was killed in a gay bashing, similar to the one in Proulx’s story. Now, Wyoming doesn’t seem to be the most progressive in the USA, which makes it safe to assume that if this sort of stuff happened eight years ago, it still does now. So, I wonder why then the same story is thrown back in time over twenty years for the purpose of this movie.
If it is to tell us that Wyoming is a very, very conservative state –and Texas too: well, thanks, I sort of had that impression already… If it is a warning to gays that they’d better stay in the closet in rural, backward areas: something tells me that gays have figured that one out too… And if it is a warning for bad summers and sheep on the loose: Wyoming is not exactly on my shortlist for holidays.
The movie does have parallels with The Ice Storm in showing how actions of a few may have a rippling effect on others’ lives. It, too, shows it without prejudice and through clear and sharp observation. However, if you realise that the whole problem is that sex between to guys will be punished with violence in the traditional cowboy society, it is a bit disappointing that this movie shuns confrontation in favour of Oscar nomination-inducing political correctness. The forced optimistic end makes it even worse. This movie wasn’t supposed to have substance, just pretty pictures and a so-called controversial theme to give it attention and win some Oscars.
Yes, the movie triggers thoughts and therefore isn’t bad. But it could and should have been better in the hands of Ang Lee.
Filmcraft comments: You can rely on Ang Lee to make a movie look and sound nicely. And on this subject, the master has not sold out. Even better, the scenery and more importantly the way it is visualised is no less than stunning. There are hardly any computer graphics involved and the craft of filming with the right diaphragm, light and focus is pushed to an almost incredibly high level. Talking about eye candy!
The casting is also very good. Heath Ledger, although over-acting a bit towards the end of the movie, plays consistently and adds credibility to his role. Jack Gyllenhaal outplays himself and displays a versatility that is rare. The supporting actors do their job without becoming too prominent, and at the same time they don’t stop mattering. Very well played and very well directed.
Together with introspection into an extremely traditional world that most of us can only imagine but not experience, the filmcraft is the one and only reason for seeing this one on a big screen and not waiting for the DVD.
A taste of the story: Boy meets boy on a mountain. They meet again. And again, and again, and again, only to find out that all is lost. |
|
|
|
|
| 735. | Killing Bono /By N. Hamm/
|
Killing Bono /By N. Hamm/
Written by Dick Clement, Ian La Frenais and others. Directed by Nick Hamm. Starring: Ben Barnes, Krysten Ritter and Robert Sheehan. 114 mins. Ireland, United Kingdom.
By Peter Ellis
Review Top Sheet: Two school friends, one dream: to become a rock star. The first changes his name to Bono, forms the band ‘U2’, and makes it; the other doesn’t and never hits the big time. This “true-ish” bitter-sweet comedy follows the fortunes of the hapless loser and his more talented brother, and is based on the book I was Bono’s Doppleganger by the celebrity’s real-life contemporary, Neil McCormick.
It’s a tale of dreams and jealousy set in 1970s and 80s Ireland and the UK starring Brit Ben Barnes (best known as the lead in ‘Dorian Gray’) as Neil, American Krysten Ritter (Suze in ‘Shopaholic’) as his girlfriend, Gloria and introducing Irish newcomer Robert Sheehan, with his striking looks and amazing green eyes, playing Neil’s younger sibling.
Will you like this film?
• Yes if: you want to switch off and chill out to an undemanding comedy, serving up a few smiles and chuckles, while kidding your friends that the films you watch are ‘relevant’ and ‘meaningful’.
• No if: you want to watch something ‘relevant’ and ‘meaningful’ or to continue to believe the wit of the Irish is forever sharp … there’s more blah than blarney.
• Maybe if: you’re some kind of U2 geek or doing an in-depth study of the history of band movies, believing them to be still ‘relevant’ and ‘meaningful’.
Comments: Like politics, religion, driving and performance in bed, you comment on others’ sense of humour at your peril. One person’s ‘brilliant’ is another’s ‘pathetic’. The predominantly Russian audience at Moscow’s first night showing was given up to bursts of laughter and even the occasional ripple of applause. Perhaps it gains something in translation: I could only muster a broad smile or two.
There were some snappy lines. My personal favourite was when the aspiring schoolboy rockers were lapping up the admiration: “the girls are looking at you as if you’re made out of Mars Bars”, a mate told them in an appealing Irish brogue. Yet, as the plot plodded on into the picture’s less toned midriff, the number of audience belly laughs went down.
While the cast bring a young, fresh-faced enthusiasm, reveling in their on-screen rock’n’roll lifestyle and the film’s ability to persuade large numbers of girls to take off their bras, older, more experienced hands were at the helm. The director, writers, technical crew and some of the supporting actors have noble pedigrees and have helped bring some great British and Irish movies into the world.
Maybe the old timers are resting on their laurels. Like a game of Chinese whispers, or the result of inbreeding, each re-telling or each new generation makes a slight change, a corruption that finally produces something resembling their original films but without the same spirit, the spark lost, the brio gone. It was sad to see veteran British actor Pete Postlethwaite (who plays the McCormicks’ London landlord) obviously ailing: he died of cancer a few months before the film’s release.
Out-of-five star ratings:
Story: ***
Dialogue: **
Substance: **
Film craft: ***
Story comments: Fans will be disappointed if they are hoping for a U2 hit fest: the famed four’s songs hardly feature (though they’d be gladdened at the flattering portrayal of their hero, Bono). Their less-successful twin’s music was especially written for the flick as the McCormick’s band ‘Shook Up’ flip-flops between punk and glam rock. Though you won’t be humming the tunes as you leave the auditorium, there are some pleasant ditties, especially the band’s big number towards the film’s finale.
While the music won’t be familiar, the story of the pleasure and pains of life on tour will. This particular comedy genre first hit the road with the 1984 cult hit ‘This is Spinal Tap’ (a satire of earlier, real tour documentaries) and probably ran out of petrol a decade or so later. ‘Killing Bono’ hasn’t refueled it. This rock opera follows a very well-traveled path, making obligatory pit stops at band in-fighting, sexual frisson, broken relationships, solidarity in adversity and the rest.
The final denouement, the encounter with Bono and as the McCormick brothers clash and then make up their differences, left me uninspired, though the threads of the story are competently tied together at the end.
Dialogue comments: If you’re British and of a certain age, you will regard writers Dick Clement and Ian La Frenais as gods. In the 70s and 80s they produced a series of legendary TV comedies: ‘Whatever happened to the Likely Lads?’, ‘Auf Wiedersehen, Pet’ and ‘Porridge’ and also penned (with Roddy Doyle) that worthy Irish-band movie classic of the early 90s, ‘The Commitments’.
Oh, how the mighty have fallen: age, it seems, hasn’t put lead in their pencils. OK, it could be the delivery but some of the dialogue, such as the record-label-owner’s-wife seduction scene, is far more wooden than horny. An Irish accent, however chirpy, can’t give life into a scene when the actor’s lines lack zest.
Film craft comments: While the leads have a way to go to fully hone their skills, the backroom boys have produced a competent presentation. The quality of its directing, lighting, sound and the like is shown by being largely unnoticeable, though the movie feels more ‘small screen’ than big (indeed, the director, Nick Hamm, has more experience in TV than film).
When ‘Killing Bono’ first hit the cinemas on April Fools’ Day, the press reaction was mixed. The Independent thought that it “has a marked tendency to drag when it needs to pick up the pace”, while The Daily Mail considered it “low on laughs”. “An amusing knockabout” said The Guardian and The Telegraph chipped in with “it’s quite a good laugh” (Neil McCormick is the Telegraph’s rock critic). On the emerald Isle, The Irish Independent thought the film was “remarkable mostly for being unremarkable” while The Belfast Telegraph called it “a rip-roaring yarn”. I guess you’ll just have to see it and make up your own mind.
A taste of the story: (hero failure Neil, listening to one of U2’s best known hits) “D’yer hear this song? I mean, is he taking the p*** now or what? He ‘still hasn’t found what he’s looking for?’ He has got everything he’s ever wanted”. |
|
|
|
|
| 736. | Nouvelle Vague
|
Nouvelle Vague
“New wave was our first culture, our first influence,” Marc Collin, the co-founder of Nouvelle Vague, told me on Saturday, while he casually picked away at his dinner. “Everyone is taking the 80’s – with the same sound,” he said, lamenting the character of the recent return to the culture and music of the 80s, “we are more interested in taking a new perspective.” Playing to a large crowd Saturday night at Keks, the group showed that this passion for the new was not enough to make new fans take the voyage back through time.
When I sat down with Marc before the show to discuss Nouvelle Vague, I was interested in finding out why he started the group in the first place, and how it would develop in the future. What I got was an inspirational description of his project. “It started with a dream,” he said, recounting his original fantasy of a bossa nova singer on the beach in Rio, singing his favorite new wave classics. He and Olivier Libaux worked from a mutual love of new wave and bossa nova, and a desire to tread new ground. I asked Collin to comment on the need for new music. “For a while, it [the catalyst for musical innovation] was the equipment – the synthesizer, the wah-pedal. Now people might say that everything has been done – not true.” Citing Bjork, among others, he argued that the expansions of electronic and computerized techniques have greatly expanded what can be done with music in the studio. “Now there is a crisis of creativity,” said Collin, “we want to show people that one can do great punk/new wave songs – that musical genius existed in punk music.” Thus the two sought to reap innovative new pop from the edgy songs of the early 80s.
With their hearts set on a return to their youth, these two found a number of young female French vocalists (who weren’t familiar with the originals), and began to craft their re-interpretations. “We worked from memory,” said Collin. “We didn’t re-listen to clips [of the originals].” Viewing bossa nova as “the most beautiful music to accompany a melody,” Collin and Libaux set out to travel (with their young French female escorts). “[to produce our eponymous album] was to take a voyage through time and space. It is great to think of a song written in Manchester in ’79 – during the crisis – and sung in Rio.” The link between the two is not the violent rejection that characterized punk music, but the melancholy and sadness that underlie both genres. At one point citing Baudelaire, Collin attributed the group’s success with fans who aren’t familiar with their roots to the emotions that the songs convey: “If we’ve succeeded it’s because we have returned fans to the melancholic side of these songs.”
While Collin and Libaux may have begun the project, it was their two female vocalists who led the band in their live performance on Saturday. When Nouvelle Vague filed on stage amidst the recorded chirping of birds and crickets, I was prepared to go on a voyage to the beaches of Brazil. The show, however, was not so transportive. With Libaux on the acoustic guitar and Collin playing keyboards and synthesizers, the set began with one of the rhythmic and sparse chord progressions familiar to bossa nova. By the second song, however, the energy level began to rise, perhaps driven by the aggression – the key to punk’s return to the spirit of rock and roll – Collin had mentioned briefly in the interview. Doubtless more controllable with studio equipment, the energy of the music attained neither the relaxed melancholy bossa nova, nor the raging punk sadness that originally inspired the arrangements. By the time one of the vocalists began belting the chorus of the Dead Kennedy’s “Too drunk to f^ck,” I began wondering if the group had maybe put a little too much on its itinerary.
Dressed in white dresses and boots, the leading ladies – Marina Celeste and Loralei – sang, danced, harmonized and thanked the crowd between songs (in English and Russian), while the silent, demure men in black sat behind them. The two women’s voices were at either end of the musical spectrum over which the concert passed: Marina, with a softer and more timid voice, took the lead on the slower songs; Loralei’s more raspy, edge, and at times off key voice, pointed straight towards rock and roll. Though they did little to blend, the two women were magnets for the crowd’s attention. While committed fans sang along and praised the ladies between sets, their compatriots in the back of the club seemed more interested in conversing with their friends. The excited front women led the group through a set that included, among others, “I just can’t get enough,” “Guns off Brixton,” “(This is not) A love song,” “Friday night, Saturday morning,” and the encore bonus, Divo’s “Mongoloid.” They had some success: their most vocal fans even continued singing their last song after the finished their second encore. For me, however, Collin’s romantic self-description was turned on edge: the performance didn’t show where the band came from or where it was going, it was just confused.
At the end of their set Marina gave a final thanks to the crowd: “Merci, Thank you. Spacebo. That’s Marc, that’s Olivier.” While she and Loralei were the faces of the band, they remained nameless throughout the concert: I only found out through asking Marina after the concert. In fact, the lack of connection between Marina and Loralei, and Marc and Olivier, made me wonder whether they were really a band at all. The style of the two front women leading the band on stage seemed to rely more on an insinuation of an extended flirtation than their desire to produce anything musically innovative. Without ever coming together as a band, the group’s musical performance ranged from garage rock to wedding cover band; melancholy, maybe, but without much Rio. While their new album (due out in September) will doubtless offer a much more controlled, produced sound, their live show failed to show the melodic ‘genius’ of the post punk/new wave era. Though at times the audience benefited from the melodic delivery of a guitar or keyboard lick, or a pleasing harmony, their show quickly became a spectacle. In this way, however, it was great fun.
Keks itself is an ironic club/lounge. Decorated as an homage piece to 1950s Americana, it is plastered with black and white pictures of housewives and sweater-vested Wasps. With a ‘70s-era Shaft film playing in the balcony upstairs, and specially-dressed women distributing free martini-and-juice cocktails, and Kent cigarette paraphernalia (are you ready to be social and meet people tonight? Take a white bracelet!), Keks was a fantasy destination of its own. Rather than a beach in Rio, then, I laughed and danced to the Nouvelle Vague. When I spoke to Collin before the show, I asked him to define pop music. “Pop?” he said, “at its base there is someone who writes a song, who wants to share it with others… it is someone who wants to share an idea or emotion with others… in three minutes.” He went on to trace its lineage through the middle ages. Though their concept is certainly a novelty, Collin and Libaux are hardly tambourine-wielding bards. Certainly then, from their overwhelming desire to share the music of their youth with others – refracted through the prism of their imagination – the band put on a fantastic show. Or, rather, the show was an attempt to share their fantasy. For 300 Rbs, some die-hard fans might have made it all the way to Rio; I never left Keks. |
|
|
|
|
| 737. | Front 242 (Version 2007)
|
Front 242 (Version 2007)
Before reading this I suggest you watch this.There is a certain inevitability to most things in life – things tend to happen with a delightful, comforting, mind boggling or infuriating, consistency, depending on your point of view. One man's Lebowski is another man's Dude. For example, a stockbroker might argue that Darwin's theory of evolution emphasizes competition over co-operation, the whole survival of the fittest thing. While a biologist or botanist might stress natural selection as less about survival and more an expression of the interdependence of beings and their environment. One way or the other all would probably agree that as environments change, animals change. Anthropologically there's consensus that as things change, people change and whichever came first is not important. Fair enough, good and bad stuff happens, things change, we get by as best we can, adapt, innovate, move on.Then there's the cockroach theory – you know, the one that says the most cunningly and perfectly devised military machines on the planet haven't changed for over a million years and are in fact the ultimate expression of a primordial militarism deemed somehow terribly impressive by people who believe human history is all about war, rather than em… not. Accordingly, life as we know it is a battle against your "enemies", real or imagined, who ultimately become one's reason to live."Fascists? No Lonnie, worse… they're Nihilists."This permanent state of readiness for war not only explains the philosophy of neo-conservatism (hardly in itself liberating) but it also tells us why cockroaches are so cool: because their survival demonstrates how we can best encapsulate the history of humanity. It's the philosophy that finishes with the ultimate in self-justification, saying "…for I'm the meanest mother f#cker in the valley". Fightin' talk thus.Front 242 (that's zwei vier zwei to you), it seems, are the cockroaches of electronic music. There were four of them in Apelsin on Saturday – to whom respect should be given as the sound was great, the staff helpful and it never took longer than two minutes to get a drink. Comprising two frontmen, a keyboard-player/programmer and a drummer who worked off the powerful programmed beats yet really didn't add any extra depth to the sound coming through the circuits, Front 242 are quite old. They started life nestled into the (mainly German) techno scene in the early 1980's and while they are experienced performers, for sure, perhaps they've just got the wrong ideas about themselves.Richard 23 (Richard Jonckheere) opened the show bopping around in sleeveless military fatigue with fingerless gloves, ubiquitous wraparounds, slightly be-muscled though fleshy nonetheless. In his day clothes he seems a very approachable chap, and there was no faulting his energy. In fact there was no faulting anyone's energy… loads of effort, lots of pumping fists, finger pointing and that funny industrious bopping you'd see the lads from the gym do when they're off their heads on E. Remember that kind of non-stop ergonomically efficient hammer-bopping with the odd move from Madonna's vogue video thrown in to add some sense of mystique? This was it, here in 2007, in Moscow. I hadn't seen it for years.. not since MC Hammer..Vocals were divided into two categories: American football coach delivery from our abovementioned friend, or a Rammstein-esque graveltone delivered utterly without irony by another shaded booted and gloved techno-muppet (Singer jean Luc De Meyer – here he is singing Baudelaire's poems with his group Modern Cubism. Seriously, I'm not joking). Having heard of them as "pioneers" of electronic music, I expected at least an iota of intelligence strewn amongst the zwei vier zwei fingerless glove and sleeveless we-mean-business-brigade, but alas in 2007 there was none. They may have been clever, they cited Wagner, Shostakovich, the Italian futurists, Rossolo and Graphsim to beard-scratchers favorite journalist Simon Reynolds in Melody Maker in 1991, but it seems they've managed to avoid any other influences since about 1983, when they released their first album Geography.Even my mate sleepy Dennis the boxer who'd seen them before was nonplussed by the sheer, well, stupidity of it all. Dennis is off the sauce though, so may not be as compos mentis as we gave him credit for. He could've seen someone else entirely a couple of years back.Still, the sound never distorted (this is where Apelsin have one up on B1) despite the mountains of whumping bass on offer. The show opened with impressive graphics running on the video walls either side of the stage, with most of us eventually preferring to watch the screens rather than the gym/stage.Programmer Daniel B. kicked us off with a thumping intro to Welcome to Paradise, the dramatic effect of which was somewhat undermined by Richard23's appearance in military garb bopping like Michael Flatley on speed. But as the drummer and second vocalist were added to the line-up things got a little mushy. Football coach and uber-soldier swapped lead-singer roles throughout but never looked like anything was choreographed – that they'd put some work into the stage show. This is rather surprising considering they're supposed to have been playing music together since before most of you were born. Instead we got cheesy arms round shoulders, and my favorite: kneeling and pointing through the roof towards some distant greater purpose or good which they allude to in their music, in the depth of their lyrics, the profundity of their philosophy. Bollocks.At this stage I would like to briefly, and not altogether tangentially mention the wearing of sunglasses on stage in dark rooms. There are a few performers who could and can wear sunglasses on stage (and here I'm speaking about Stevie Wonder, Ray Charles or The Blind Boys of Alabama). I've got a feeling that on Saturday our posers with delusions of grandeur wore sunglasses not to fool us into thinking they're cooler than they really are, but to fool themselves into thinking it. They could have taken off their shades, said hello to the 300 odd devoted fans, but they didn't. They could have looked 300 people in the eye and said to them "yes, as our music asks you to believe in ideas, we show you the whites of our eyes and yes, we believe it!". But they didn't. Anyone who wears shades throughout a gig has something to hide and is either Prince or shouldn't be onstage. This was cabaret.To be honest, the best bits were when they played pieces from their early albums, and that was an encore. Here the key changes, song structures, and beats were more sophisticated, subtle and yes, intelligent. One song reminded me of Depeche Mode's "New Life", for example. But the unhappy evidence on the basis of Saturday's set-list is that while Underworld, Orbital, Aphex Twin, Prodigy, and even Scooter explored technology's potential as a medium for music during the 90's and up to now, Front 242 explored music's possibilities as a medium for technology. Their adherence to the ideas of the twentieth century started out as a form of modernism (constructivism was a guiding principle in their latter years), but is now frankly embarrassing to the point that their cringe-inducing fear-mongering would not be out of place at a Nashi convention.Jack-hammer bass drums and de-ne-ne-ne keyboards were cool in 1982 (remember the start of Kim Wilde's "Kids in America?"), but that was 25 years ago. Grunge reminded us that in order to be heavy, in order to rock, you had have to have guitars. Like, even the Prodigy had a guitarist when were at their most pompous, but the Fronters just had their keyboards… and when you're trying to be heavy, to be hard, to rock, but dance and do justice to your fingerless gloves, then keyboards are about as out of place as an expat in Petrovich when the school disco's on. Things are out of whack, the centre cannot hold. Guitars go well with muscles such as Richard23's but muscles and keyboards just look wrong, morally wrong. No matter how bulgy your biceps, if you stand behind a keyboard you look like a puff – it's the legacy of the 1980's, just ask any heavy metal band.Anyhow – turning music into technology was clever in the 70s, all the Germans did it (Einsteunde Neubaten, Can, Kraftwerk, Nina Hagen even). In der shule von industrielle uber music Front 242 may have been innovators in 1983, who sadly now they represent the no-necks, the jocks. In my part of the world they'd be strapping 11-toed fuckers lured down from the mountains with raw meat who can kick and catch a ball while in Russia they'd be Duma deputies. Not the brightest, but a force to be reckoned with.They are nihilist soldiers at the gates of oblivion striving for something to strive against, and as such, Saturday's performance was an honest no-frills expression of a mentality which defiantly stands up to its enemies and shouts "no surrender!". This is fine if you believed Star Wars, of you see the world as a battle between good and evil, black and white, Christian and Muslim, Democrat and Republican, anarchist and fascist.Front 242, it seems, will just keep doing what they're doing, regardless of their (ir)relevance (Apelsin was less than half full), regardless of how things have changed, ignorant of the damage they do to minds and to music: they are soldiers, they are Donald Rumsfeld, they are OMON: a stripped down, empty, single purpose unintelligent military machine – the cockroach - leaving the geneticist or botanist, the true holders of Darwin's heritage, wondering where have all the flowers gone.I'll leave the last word to Dennis "It wasn't supposed to be like this". |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 738. | Resume
|
English Teacher for Camping
I really love working with kids at camps. Got some camping up and looking for an experienced teacher to work with kids? I engage kids with all kids of games and activities. I work mainly in Moscow and Moscow suburbs. |
|
|
|
|
| 739. | Resume
|
Housekeeping, cleaning and maintenance services
It’s my pleasure to greet all the expats living in Moscow! Being a native Muscovite with a vast living abroad experience, I consider it to be my duty to make your stay/living in my city an easy, friendly and comfortable! I’m ready to take over the maintenance, cleaning and partial overhaul of your apartment, cottage or house. I’m an experienced cleaner, able to install full kitchen set with putting the dishwasher or oven into operation. I can also make minor internal repairs should you accidentally face any. I’m a bilingual RUS-ENG speaker with basic knowledge of French and Italian, with the Moscow State Linguistic University Master’s degree in International Economics. I’m also ready to make guided tours around Moscow, make any-depth cultural introduction and familiarization, perform any form of translating activities, teach the basics of Russian. My wife, being a living mother of four kids, would be happy to take care of your kids of any age, including the newborns, while you are away to the soiree or theater. Feel free to reach out to me for references and recommendations. |
|
|
|
|
| 740. | Vacancy
|
Full-time Live-in or Rota Native English or French Governess/Governor/Tutor
Native English or French governess/governor/tutor is required to work with the boys: 8, 12 and 16 years old in the family in Moscow region. The candidate should be under 40 years old, qualified and have relevant experience in families and educational facilities. The family is looking for a fun and active, positive, friendly, communicative and sporty person who will take a sole charge role. The candidate will provide the general care and support for the children, manage daily schedule, provide language lessons and tuition, help with homework, exam preparation, sports, games and walks. Schedule: full-time live-in or rota + travels with the family. Monday-Friday: morning hours before school, then from 15:00 (pick-up from school) till 20-21:00. Saturday-Sunday: full days (approximately from 9:30-10:00 till 20-21:00). Package: visa support, tickets, a separate accommodation and meals. Location: Zhukovka, Moscow region, Russia. Salary: negotiable. |
|
|
|
|
| 741. | Vacancy
|
Rota Live-in Native German or Bilingual Nanny/Teacher
Native German or Bilingual (Russian & German) Nanny/Teacher is required to work with the boy 2 years old in the family in Moscow region. The candidate should be qualified, have relevant experience in families and/or educational facilities with the same age group of children. The basic knowledge of Russian language is obligatory. The family is looking for a professional, kind, active, friendly and responsible person who has the solid understanding of the Early Years and developmental milestones and be able to guide the child through these phases. The sole charge role. The candidate will be responsible for the safety of the child. The nanny will provide all necessary childcare & support (hygiene, daily schedule, feeding, putting to sleep etc., prepare breakfast sometimes) and assist the boy in his development, evolve early learning, games & walks etc. The nanny will teach the German language through communication, plays & other activities. Travelling with the family. The boy wakes up at 6-7:00 and goes to sleep at 20:00. Rota live-in: 2 weeks on/2 weeks off. Conditions: a shared room with the child. Location: Anosino, Novaya Riga, Moscow region. Salary: negotiable. |
|
|
|
|
| 742. | Resume
|
Native English Teacher
I am a native English teacher from England. I have 5 years of experience teaching both business and general English. I am located in Moscow so can give either offline or online. |
|
|
|
|
| 743. | Vacancy
|
ESL Teacher
Simply English Moscow is looking for energetic, professional native English teachers to join us for the 2024-25 school year. Our teachers work in state and private schools, kindergartens, and with private students. Simply English Benefits: A competitive salary: 90,000 - 120,000 Rub (depending on experience and qualifications); Housing - subsidized by the school; Work Visa - full support and paid by the school; Free unlimited monthly transport pass; Free health insurance in private clinics; Paid public holidays; Paid winter vacation; Paid sick leave; Vibrant social life for teachers with bi-weekly parties and events; Paid Teacher training and “living in Moscow” seminar during the first week of employment; Free Wi-Fi and all utilities in teacher housing; Professional programs, curriculums, and teaching materials provided by the school; 24-hour emergency support. Requirements: A native English speaker from the USA, Canada, UK, Australia, South Africa, NZ or Ireland; Flexible, creative, energetic, and passionate about working with kids! Positive and easy-going, with experience handling cultural differences; Have at least 1 year of teaching experience with children in a school or kindergarten setting. Or hold a Bachelor of Education degree or other qualifying Early Childhood Education degree or Certificate. |
|
|
|
|
| 744. | Resume
|
Russian Teacher
Native speaker, graduated from Moscow State University, I have been teaching Russian for more than 15 years. I only use authentic materials so, from the very first lesson, you will be in contact with the real language. During the lesson you will read texts written by Russians for Russians, you will listen to spontaneous conversations, interviews and radio broadcasts, you will watch commercials and film clips and you will discover grammar like a real Sherlock Holmes. |
|
|
|
|
| 745. | Resume
|
Native English teacher from Canada
I’m a native English speaking teacher from Toronto, Canada. I have been teaching English in Russia for over 12 years, working at some of the top kindergartens and schools in Moscow. I specialize in working with children as young as 4 years old, as well as with their parents. I have a proven track record of preparing students with no knowledge of English for entrance exams to international schools within one academic year. |
|
|
|
|
| 746. | Vacancy
|
Chemistry, Physics and Mathematics IGCSE and IA-level Teachers
A British School in the centre of Moscow is looking for a Chemistry, Physics and Mathematics IGCSE and IA-level teachers for 2024-2026. Successful candidates will have students getting B to A* in the subject in the past years, have solid classroom management skills and be dedicated to students’ progress. Part time as well as full time contracts may be considered. We offer visa support, medical insurance, meals, paid holidays, a competitive salary and work with a great team. |
|
|
|
|
| 747. | Resume
|
Business and Literary English Professional
I am a highly qualified and experienced business professional - with a masters degree in English from Oxford Univrsity, 10 years of experience in business and finance in London, and 13 years working in Moscow in a variety of teaching, translating and broadcastint roles. My students have worked in organisations including Rosatom, Severstal, HSE, Cordiant, Gazprom and Lukoil. I also spent 2 years as a presenters on the Voice or Russia / Sputnik news doing radio broadcasts on current affairs. I am interested in all business classes and general adult English, but also have a specific interest in anyone who would like to learn more about English literature. I do not generally work with young learners as I can offer more specialist value in these other areas. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 748. | Offered
|
Tokmakov per., 16/1
Simple, basic Art and free space, 20 sq.m for flexible use 24h/7, right et the center of Moscow. English, French, Russian friendly. It has basic ' fascilitues: but good for individual projects, art storage place- commertial. Only with your own ' Wi-Fi high band system! @ There is All important for 24h ' in use), but no kitchen! |
|
|
|
|
| 749. | Offered
|
I am offering my beautiful 1-room flat in the close proximity to Studenchskaya, Kievskaya, Delovoy Tsentr metro station from the beginning of June, 2024. The flat is fully furnished, has a large balcony, equipped kitchen and high-speed internet connection. Lots of shops, restaurants, cafes are nearby. Moscow City is in a walking distance as well. Photos are available on request.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The virtual community for English-speaking expats and Russians
