Shafran Review

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Shafran

Cuisine: Oriental
Address: Spiridonievsky per., 12/9
Metro: Tverskaya
Tel: 737-9500
Open from 10:00 until 24:00.


By Len Readle


If you imagine I had been to a funeral during the daytime and of course I was in a surly mood before arriving at Shafran, and I was ready to find fault in even the best establishments. The outside faeade aroused my annoyance, settled between two other restaurants, all three looking like something from the streets of LA! "Great, great" I thought, "I can really rip into them"!

The owners or management were not expecting us, and of course we didn't tell them; we were just a normal everyday couple coming for dinner. Well, the place was heaving. "Do you have reservations, sir". After pretending my PA had called to book and there must be some mix-up, they led us to a less formal area with sofas and soft lighting. So far, so good. I was bursting to start complaining - they must be far too busy to pay attention to us and get our food to us before it got cold.

One Strawberry and one Melon Frozen Margaritas arrived as ordered, within seven minutes - I was truly champing at the bit to shout and cause general mayhem. Well, they weren't the best I have tasted, but they were OK - however at $8 each, re-ordering was not an option.

The Hummus ($5.50) chick peas served with Tahini and Pine Nuts Meze ($3.00) were presented by two very attentive waitresses, as a cold starter that kicked my taste buds into action and had my mouth watering immediately. Piling quickly into the hot starters of Stuffed Peppers ($5.00) Vegetables Stuffed with Meat, Rice and Fresh Herbs, served with a Bechamel sauce only increased my salivation production, and before realizing where I was I was actually cleaning the plate off with bread.

At this stage I was feeling quite full - the portions were very generous and the bread served with the starters was delicious, so I was ready to drink up and move on. However, the smell that preceded our main course of Lebanese Lamb Kebab with Tahini and grilled veggies ($15.00), and the fillet of Ostrich ($20.00) was truly divine. It may sound kind of boring, but the aroma of the food was not only fantastic, but the taste had me dreaming of moving to the birth place of this wonderful cuisine.

Only once, a long time ago, have I tried Lebanese food and that was pretty awful - my visit to this restaurant has left me wanting to return to sample the rest of the menu. If I had to complain - which I love to do - I think the only thing I didn't like was the presence of a few novy russky poseurs; however, the predominant clientele were average middle management Russians.

My advice - go with an open mind, soak up the atmosphere, count how many Geckos you can see on the walls and ceiling - there are lots of hidden and interesting features in the decor, which made me wonder if someone is actually thinking about their customers.

My overall impression was very good - a place I would return to, and not that expensive.

01.08.04.

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