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Bling a la Russe

By Reiner Torheit

Polly Sad is a place well-heeled folk go if they’re not really sure what they want to do. Of course, you can eat there, and that’s the main idea – but you could just sit with a cocktail, and allow the deliciously decorated interiors to wash away your blues. In this respect, although it doesn’t style itself as a brasserie, it fits its best traditions – there’s no pressure to order anything, and if you want to linger you’ll be left alone. The staff, in fact, are almost preternaturally modest about the menu. Understated opulence is the watchword – the entire place seems predicated on some future visit by the blingiest of Europe’s premiers, Monsieur Sarkozy.

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