Coffeemania Review

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Coffeemania

Cuisine: Cafes
Address: Bolshaya Nikitskaya ul., 13, str., 1, Moscow Conservatory
Metro: Okhotny Ryad
Tel: 775-4310
Web: www.coffeemania.ru
Open from 08:00 until 24:00.


Coffeemania at the Conservatory


By Nathaniel Williams


Coffeemania

Just a few minutes walk from Arbatskaya, and right inside the building of the Conservatory Hall awaits Coffeemania. The main attraction- not surprisingly- is coffee, but the menu also boasts a large number of food choices ranging from pastries and desserts to soups, salads and full entrees. Because of the unpredictable quality of coffee in Moscow I went into the review with a modicum of apprehension, but found that just about everything Coffeemania had to offer- from coffee to entrees- was great. Their ginger coffee in particular comes with the highest of recommendations.

I arrived at Coffeemania late on a Friday afternoon and was instantly struck by the location's atmosphere. The interior is rather large, with tables placed at a comfortable distance apart, and at the entrance a patio with seating for around thirty is nestled beneath a row of trees. We were lucky enough to enjoy one of the last days of weather good enough to allow eating outside on their renowned terrace. Neither posh nor spartan the decor and feel is distinctly European. This is one of the few places in Moscow where I've felt completely at ease just sipping coffee and reading a newspaper. The other patrons, mostly upper-class locals and a surprising number of expats, appeared just at ease as I was. Despite having a central location a short walk away from the Arbat and the Kremlin, Coffeemania had the feel of an oasis. Perhaps the beauty and serenity of the Conservatory have rubbed off on the place.

I began with a salad, the Glacial (230 rbl), and was immediately relieved that Coffee Mania's appeal did not end with its ambiance. My salad featured glacial greens, chunks of soft cheese, grape halves, and kumquat slices. I was a huge fan as well of the complimentary ciabatto bread -fresh baked- that came with the food. The dressing on the Glacial was a rather sweet vinaigrette, and the overall taste was tangy and absolutely fascinating. If you prefer something more traditional try their Gourmet (210 rbl) made with pan fried buffalo chicken, thick cut carrots & celery, blue cheese sauce, and mixed greens. But be warned that if you don't like a lot of dressing you may want to ask for it on the side. The Caesar salad (210 rbl) is worth mentioning as well as it is always good at the place.

For our main course my companion and I went all out with Salmon with asparagus (270 rbl), Fish L'Dorado (390 rbl) and Negoro pasta (230 rbl). The salmon, breaded and served on top of pureed asparagus, and resting in a rich cream sauce was my personal favorite. The dorado, served whole, was appropriately moist and quite delicious, but its light buttery flavor was more to my companion's liking than mine. Rave reviews go to the pasta Negoro made with black pasta, black caviar and assorted seafood which was absolutely incredible- and with portions just the right size so that it's possible even for non pasta-gourmets to finish.

The service has markedly improved over the past few months with wait times much shorter, and a refreshingly affable and efficient staff. The service was quick in the beginning, but as we kept ordering more food and coffee we were given more time to sit and talk. Simple items are delivered promptly, but if you plan on ordering a four course meal you better not be in too big of a hurry.

Finally I partook in an assortment of coffee to accompany my desert. The cappuccino (99 rbl) was good- slightly bitter before adding spoonfuls of sugar but still of high quality. The caramel coffee (95 rbl) was better, with a wonderful but not too sweet taste of caramel. My favorite coffee however was the fantastically flavored ginger (pryanik) coffee (99 rbl) which anyone visiting Coffee Mania should most assuredly try. My companion also recommended the Mochacino (119 rbl) that will help soothe the nerves on all you expats suffering from Starbucks withdrawal. For dessert I tried the Luxor (330 rbl) - an artfully arranged plate with coconut parfait, coconut ice cream, fresh strawberries and fresh pineapple.

Overall Coffeemania is a great choice for a business lunch, a date, or just relaxing and watching time go by. Highly recommended.

17.09.03.

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