If they ever hold an Ugliest Street In Europe contest, Novy Arbat street will win. Its brutal 60's concrete lines outdo even Nicolae Ceasescu's worst excesses in Bucharest. Novy Arbat by night is a wannabe Las Vegas that doesn't make the grade - shabby neon that would only impress a recent arrival from Ust-Tarakansk. Concealed amongst this dismal line-up, however, is Sunrise - looking like a rather startled debutante who's blundered into the wrong neighbourhood in a ball-gown.

If you're taking your date - because this is exactly the right venue for romancing someone - it-s one of those places that needs the "it doesn't look much from outside, but - preamble". As it is, the approach is a bit like a speakeasy or a gambling den (some exterior lighting would help here, guys?). Once through the door, however, it's plush-plush-plush - this is a place that takes beauty and appearance seriously. The staff seem to have been selected to look beautiful, and instead of goons in combat fatigues to greet you, smart and charming greeters ensure that your evening is a beautiful experience from the moment you take your coat off.

Sunrise is a DJ-Cafe, and overtly caters to a smart young Muscovite set. Smart doesn't mean formal here, but fashionable - you can dress as relaxed as you wish, but with an emphasis on style. The Dining-Room is lusciously done, in subtly-coordinated hues of soft white, offset with gold detail establishing the hallmark "sun" motif. The design is carefully followed-through without any regard to cost - the ceilings are individually hand-painted with gold-threaded patterns, the all-wooden floors are inlaid with gold mosaics. Yet the skill with which all this is done produces a light, airy and uncluttered feel, something like a Princess's fantasy bedroom. Specially-commissioned furniture follows Egyptian lines (connections with sun-worship), and giant golden sun-disks brighten both ends of the room. Attention to detail is intense - even the candle-holders mirror the sun-disks in miniature, and everything has been uniquely created for the venue. Hardwood furniture and fixtures complete this immaculately-conceived ensemble, and stylishly-dressed staff complement it elegantly.

A carefully-planned integrated Sound System provides a comfortable musical ambience that has a satisfying presence, yet caters to a clientele who've come to socialise - you can comfortably hear your friends without them shouting. The sounds are "contemporary lounge'', in a nice mix that only adds to the mojo. This is a place to see, and to be seen here, and style and image are almost the main draws for coming here at all. Eating is by no means compulsory - you can order some drinks, relax, maybe a snack, chat, chill-out - the world of sour faces, rudeness and selfish pushing and shoving has been left at the door.

The drinks menu is extensive, and you might be tempted by the House Cocktails. Although the staff are attentiveness personified, they are never in your face - there's no proactive pushing of today's specials, "maybe another, sir"?, "perhaps champagne for madam"?. Since this is almost the norm elsewhere, it's sometimes necessary to take the lead yourself - no-one is going to force a coffee on you with your dessert here unless you yourself suggest it. An upside of this -it leaves you more in control of your spend for the evening, if that's a consideration. And for whom is it not, let's be honest.

However, even in the sunlit ethereal sophistication of Elysium on Novy Arbat, you might feel a little peckish later, and may even get around to, errr, eating something? Lena was already so carried along with the spectacle of it all that she went for the Foie Gras with balsamic vinegar (370Rb), prepared in immense style at your table on a gas-burner, by the chef in person. Judging from the yummy sounds from the other side of the table, this hit the spot very accurately. My Salmon Carpaccio (220Rb) came accompanied by an unexpected brace of blini, and was easily enough for a main course. I'd have preferred the carpaccio more marinaded, though. Lena tucked into Roast Pork with apple sauce and roquefort (440Rb) with the same enthusiasm as the foie gras, reporting that the pork was deliciously tender, although she found the apple sauce too sweet to fully cut through the pork's natural density. My Crispy Dorada (370Rb) was indeed as crispy as promised - although I was unconvinced that the dorada benefited from this treatment? If we'd wanted food lighter on either the palate or the pocket, there are pasta and pizza options on the menu from just 190Rb, as well as an imaginative range of breakfasts. With Burns Night approaching (Jan 25th), you could even start your Highland Holiday with a Scottish Breakfast at Sunrise.

As night follows day, so desserts followed entrees, with the arrival of a Traditional Apple Pie (190Rb). Lena found this rather too similar to the apple sauce of her pork. After the intake of blini earlier, I skipped a conventional dessert in favour of Italianskie trubochki (Italian pastry horns -110Rb) which arrived as a delicate tiny trio with my (excellent) Espresso.

Sunrise quite correctly designates itself as a Cafe - in the elegant European tradition of Cafes as places to relax and luxuriate with your friends - rather than a Restaurant. As a venue for a romantic tryst (hint "Valentine's Day is just over 3 weeks away"), somewhere to flee to be alone with the person you just met at a party or club (they're open 24 hours), or just a place to schmooze your visiting mother, it's a welcome world away from the garish glow of Novy Arbat outside.

18.01.04